I have a 2004 ford ranger xlt 4x4 4.0l sohc that I love it was my dads and he blew the first original engine and I got a rebuilt one and put it in it and I would love to supercharge it I already did the exhaust and lift as well as 17” rims but I have a lot more work I need to do to it the body is perfect as well as the interior it’s almost identical to yours but it’s awesome and I’m glad there is another person that loves these pickups as much as I do awesome truck and I can’t wait to see what else you do to it thanks
That sounds like a great truck to start with!!…. Really nice it has a rebuilt motor… that should give you the updated guides etc! I got a ton more projects planned… starting in a couple weeks I will get some more videos out.
Excellent! I drove over an hour to buy a "5-speed" FX4 Level II Ranger with 265,000 miles. I am driving it and cleaning up as I go. I would like switch over to manual hubs at some point. I haul a lot of wood and thought the Super Charger would be a decent power upgrade and give the added torque needed for heavy loads.
That sounds like a great truck! I love my 5speed it’s one of the best upgrades I did. The supercharger is a really nice bonus, you would immediately notice the difference. I no longer downshift for hills on the highway. 👌👍
Enjoy the channel sir. Not sure I agree with moving the IAT to where you did. For with the SC cars didn't have it there and I have several Mustangs with Turbo and have the IAT before the throttle body to avoid the heat soak issues. I think you would've been better off running a Snow Performance Methanol injection. Otherwise nice setup
That’s funny you don’t have the iat after the turbo. You can tune it based off intake air but it’s much more accurate basing it after the power adder…. More boost usually means more heat…. You won’t know that temperature if you’re measuring before the power adder. I’m currently in the middle of tuning it myself and ford has some great strategies based off the iat…. Add more fuel or take out some timing. I’m happy I have it there otherwise I would have to keep everything very fat… lots of fuel little timing etc. definitely a bit more heat soak but it’s easy to tune for it… low idle… rpm you can keep the computer from referencing it. Hope that makes sense… so far it’s working for me
I'm thinning and spraying my whole car with Raptor and using an HVLP gun. I want the smoothest possible look. Any tips or suggestions as for pressure/spraying distance.
Sorry missed your question. I don’t really have specifics but I did a lot of testing on some paper I had hanging then I sprayed the back side of my fenders and hood. It actually flattens out pretty good, I think you will like the look! 👌
Great video. I’ve been thinking about doing my 05 ranger here soon. This video was a while ago. How’s it holding up now and how long has it been. Im wanting a paint job where I can drive through deer woods and not worry at all of scratches, clean it up and have a slick rig again. Again GREAT video. Thank you for putting in the time in recording it all. Slick ride as well.
Thanks! I 100% recommend the raptor liner! I’ve been on a ton of ATV tracks close brush scratching the truck. You can only tell by the mirrors and other plastic trim, not a mark on the raptor. No peeling, No fading. I’d definitely do it again but probably a bit darker grey.
@@RangerShop1 that’s what I’m wanting to do is a dark gray on mine. This is the first video I’ve seen of yours and I love what your doing with the channel. Super in depth video not caring how long. Great stuff
Good I was pulling a 3000lb trailer with a locker in the front as long as I took it easy I didn’t have any problems climbing rock or going through deep mud.
So mine is stuck in drive… do I have to somehow get it back into park or something? I’ve already seen the tube is def cracked I just don’t know how to even get the broken one out after unbolting everything. Not sure how to “drop” the steering wheel?
Pull off the trim around the column, and the trim underneath the column by your knees, once the trim is removed climb under the dash and look up you will see 4 large nuts they hold the column up. Remove them and you can drop the column, once the column is sitting on your seat you will be able to see the bolts holding that shaft down. Don’t forget to unhook the PRNDL wire before dropping the column or you will break it. Sorry I definitely could have done a better job filming back in the early days!
@@RangerShop1 haha it’s all good , I’m just glad you took time to even make a video! Thanks for all the help! I’m about to try that right now. Pray for me haha
@@RangerShop1 ok idk if you can help me even more… lol, I got the broke tube and plunger out and I got the new one in… well it’s still stuck in drive and no matter what I do it still will not shift up or down… any ideas? Did I put it back together wrong? I’m lost
Hi there im going to do the supercharger install and would like to add this. I noticed that your plate is Ontario, i also live there. Where did you get your inter cooler parts from and where is the rad shop that constructed them. Thanks 😊
Intercooler tanks I got from Moddbox, the heat exchanger was done by a local rad shop in London Ontario where I live. Talk to Steve at Ace Radiator. If you have a few buddies your price would drop dramatically. I ended up splitting the cost with a friend and we had two made…. The second one was only 50$ more than the first for materials plus the welding.
@@RangerShop1 Thanks for the info, I'm I Grand Bend. I just received my ModdBox kit and waiting for a few other parts. I will talk to Aaron and see if I can get a set of tanks.
I was talking to Aaron and they don't have any more intercoolers and not planning to make any more., I guess if decide to add more boost I will have to do the meth/water injection.
Awe that’s really to bad!! Yeah methanol would work but if you’re towing or in boost a lot it will burn through it pretty quickly! It’s too bad I just sold my methanol kit because the intercooler was working so well! Please keep me posted, are you on instagram I’d love to follow the build!
Shouldn’t use anymore gas under normal driving. The first while I was using quite a bit more but it was because I was always pegging the boost. If you’re driving like normal and it’s using more gas I’d say something is off. Check for vacuum leaks or exhaust leaks… something that is tricking the computer into thinking you’re running lean when you’re actually ok.
@@RangerShop1thanks for the response. I’m thinking about doing this to my 2000 Chevy blazer. Is it truly worth it? If I follow your instructions I think I can do it myself. It’s way cheaper than painting it. How much roughly did you have in it total just to paint the outside?
That’s tough it depends on what you want out of the vehicle. Off road or something completely different then I 100% recommend it. It’s cheaper for sure, way more durable and very forgiving to spray. The downside is once done you can’t really go back. It would be so much work to sand off! 😬 I’m going to use this on every off road vehicle I get. Total for me including the Hvlp gun and raptor to do my canopy and inside door jams I used 11 bottles but had about 1 3/4 left over. Cost me around 700$ Canadian. That includes my sand paper, acetone, masking plastic etc.
Here’s a chart to explain- I just mixed 20% black raptor with 80% white. It came out a bit to blue for my liking… I’d probably recommend more black. www.raptorliner.com/uploads/6/9/6/5/6965393/raptor_liner_mixing_gray-info-us.pdf
I replaced the head gasket on my 2.3 ranger. Went to put the clutch fan back on and it pretty much just disintegrated so now I'm trying to figure out how to wire this ebay fan 😆
@@RangerShop1 I got my fan wired in, it came with a thermostat switch that was way too low and just ran all the time. Then I put in a 200 on and 185 thermostat switch in but think that's too hot now haha
hey ! I want to ask since the build can you tell me how many miles this engine currently have? I own a sportrac and I was dreaming about a supercharger and here it is my dream come true!. greetings from colombia and thanks!
Hey there I had some questions regarding an earlier video on the raptor lining process. Do you have an email I can email you and throw you a few questions? Thanks!
Sorry I’ve been crazy busy the last few months. I’ll check out your questions now…. Sorry I don’t see your questions anywhere. Just post them on that video and I’ll try to answer the best I can.
I haven’t needed it so far…, if you were running a ton of boost plus towing it would probably be a good idea. I’m going to max out at 5psi so should be safe.
The rust, spot welds & silicone looked absolutely horrific. I’m glad you took care of everything before it got worse. I’m gonna replace my back window on my ‘99 Ranger.
Very good video, I have a very similar setup in my Ranger. When you do the tune look at the AIT de-rate value. After I tuned mine I was getting a huge reduction in power after driving a long time on hot days even after pulling a bit of timing and running rich (11ish AFR at wot). After a bunch of troubleshooting found out the computer pull extra timing if the AIT was over 130ish F. I bumped that number to 210 so it would quit de-rating and haven't had issues with Knock, or pre-ignition. Running the 8psi pully for almost 100k miles now, no issue besides lots of blow-by.
Thanks! Man that’s some good information. I saved your comment for when I tune it! Appreciate the info! Thats encouraging to hear you running on 8psi, part of me just wants to jump to that, tune it and be done. But I’m just not sure if I could consistently tow with that boost? I better try the 5psi first are you running methanol injection, any form of cooling? Thanks again for the info!
I have a water to air intercooler similar to the one you installed and a water/methonal Injector. I can still hit 190F on hot days wot up a long hill, but it drops pretty quickly. Eventually I will install some electric fans for the intercooler, but just havent gotten to it yet. I would also suggest the catch can you mentioned in the video, I have to empty mine every other gas fill.
When I did my swap to a manual and manual t-case it came out of a 2003 Ranger which didn’t have an EGR system…. I swapped the computer, harness, etc I think for yourself though It’s a pretty easy thing to fix in a tune though.
love your vids, i plan on supercharging my sohc 4.0L in the future and this is great to know. i am currently in the process of replacing the engine this weekend with a reman from ford.
Right on!! Do you really feel a difference from 3-5.5? I’d love to hear about your tune. Are you running stock exhaust, standard cats? So you’re running it a bit rich to quench the chamber? Appreciate any info… I really like planning this stuff out!
@@RangerShop1 I jumped from a stock tune to the 5.5lb pulley. We figured the 3lb pulley would only get rid of the parasitic loss and have minimal gains. I got it tuned at a really reputable dyno for 4.6L mustangs. It made 220hp at 240ft-lbs of torque on a mustang dyno so without the 15% loss we estimated its making 253hp at 270ft-lbs of torque. For the exhaust we have extremely “free flowing” cats 😉 with a glass pack cut out before the rear tire. In terms of fuel, the injectors were so worth it with the 255lph fuel pump. Stock motors needs to run an AFR of 14.7 but boosted vehicles need to be at 11.8 while under WOT. So the hardest part while they were tuning it was giving it enough air to keep up with the massive amount of fuel it needed in order for the AFR to stay at 11.8 throughout the entire curve from 1k-6k rpm.
I believe he still makes the tanks… which are the hard part.. the exchanger you can get from a lot of custom places…. if he doesn’t have them maybe he would know where you can get them?
I used to work in a federal maintenance shop. All of the mechanics, at one time or another, would curse the engineers and wonder wth they were thinking when they decided to mount part A to gizmo B upside down and backwards. 😆 So I tend to figure things out as I go vs following a pre-decided plan as you do.
Yeah I hear you! Just figuring it out as we go, it worked so far! Sometimes you got to wonder about those engineers…. It’s like they never planned something to come apart!
Hey the washers on your radius are bushings on incorrect. They should cup the bushing not curve away. Helps keep the bushing from splitting. Great build.
Bondo is good enough, you do not need a glaze coat because this is a thick coating that will hide some issues especially 3 coats. actually 100 grit sanding would be fine. This type of coating REQUIRES a mechanical bond its not chemical.
It’s definitely a good paint to learn on, very forgiving. I’d still recommend taking care of any issues before painting… paint doesn’t really fill holes. According to raptor instructions 120-220 grit I’d stick with their recommendation.
Just pull the bed when your working with the fuel pump..... otherwise your in a perpetual wrestling match with the pump.... you need (3) guys and the bed comes off easily and makes work so much easier....
Awesome video. Thank you sir. Fellow Canuck here. One question, how did you re-attach the emblems after the Raptor? Just the pins or any special adhesive used? Getting ready to spray my Ranger but trying to get ahead of all the details. Thanks.
I thought the Rancho rear shocks don't support any lift. (RS55126). I have the front Rancho shocks on my ranger and looking for rear shocks to support a small 1" lift. Am I good with the Ranchos?
