Thank you for posting this, i have an ac1 that i made a DC 24 volt generator using a 24 volt pma set up with pullys and a belt, i was wondering how to lower the rpms, and couldnt find anything anywhere, the previous owner had set at 3000 rpms, and with a 24 volt pma the max that should turn the pma is 2700 rpms, i have it now set at 2100, because i found the max output be at 2200, and no need to set any higher as just wasting fuel. We are completely offgrid with solar and wind power with 4 forklift batteries, and we live as though we are on grid power, so sometimes need to have supplemental power, and i run my military trucks off of waste motor oil, and have found that these AC1 engines will run just fine on it, so free fuel. These actually run smoother and put out power just the same running on motor oil, i filter with a centrifuge and mix in 10% diesel, have had no issues with injector or the engine running it on it. Again thanks for your help.
I have put up 2 Harbour freight 10x17' One I mounted to a 10x20 wood deck. The extrema 3' of deck makes a great outside work area. When I get the grame put together I go around and put 1 -3/4" self tapping screw in every joint. This really makes the frame solid 1/4 x2 lags with washers were used to secure legs to the deck. I live in the Northeast so snow load happens, sheds been up for 6 years and still going strong The first one I put up was exactly the same but was put on a paved area. I ran 6x6 hemlock beams down the outside 17' runs. I used 1/4" x3" lags with washers, two in each leg and all other connections got one 3/4" self tapping screw. That shed has been in place for 8 years and is still perfect. It got hit with a blast of wind between 65 and 80 mph during a vicious storm and when all has said and done. The shed had moved a total of 1". All other similar sheds in the neighborhood were completely destroyed. I was offer money several times over the next weeks to put up my neighbors sheds. I politely declined and offered to help and show them how to fortify their sheds so it wouldn't' happen again as long as we all worked together on each others shed. It brought our community together and I don't remember the last time that I've been working in my yard and someone didn't bring me a cold beer as a thank you. Oh, all sheds are still standing and this is year 5 God Bless, and be good to each other
Thanks! As I get older, smaller "stuff" is more welcome. I just discovered how nice top-handle chain saws are on the back! Even though the log splitter in this video is small, it does 99% of the wood I plan on dealing with. Only stumps and branch "Y"s are a problem which they can be for the larger kinetic splitter and sometimes even the now-painfully-slow hydraulic splitter.
It likely wasn't the voltage but rather the phase difference wasn't enough. And split phase 240 volts you have two opposite 180° out of phase bus lines. With three phase they are only 120° out of phase so the voltage difference is even less then you would expect from the 208 volts. Probably the inverter didn't like the fact that the phase difference wasn't 180° between two connections on the three phase bus.
Yeah the old diesel fuel seems to be a big subject of talk on the smokestack form. They're always talking about having to add biosides and lubricants because the modern low sulfur diesel doesn't lubricate the injectors like the old diesel fuel did and it also is prone to bacterial growth in the fuel tank. Then you got to worry about water separation. My advice would be keep the tank full and use good quality fuel.
Did that drill attachment come with the kit? I don't recall seeing that mentioned, but I've been doing stuff while this is playing and might have missed it.
Thanks for watching! A drill adapter is not included. The link for the one used is in the description if you're interested. You might want to consider the heavy duty (HD50) one rated for impact use as the one shown in the video is not. Impact drivers can install larger anchors and in more difficult ground and won't twist your arm off in the process!
Thanks for watching! The HF and SL units in the video are both holding up fine. However, I have other units installed that have not being doing as well, both HF and SL. At this point, the SL units *seem* to have a very slight strength advantage for their structure (their pipe frames), but the only way to confirm for sure is replacing the HF ones with SL ones in the same locations and have the SL units experience the same weather conditions which may not occur again. The HF units are suffering from piping failures and usually where they are not protected as well from the wind from surrounding objects like trees. Snow loads have been a problem when storms bring 8-10 inches *sometimes*. But again, they are very close in capability and *IF* the SL has an advantage it is so minimal that I don't think it would make a difference from a practical standpoint. It's kind of like having two cars with one getting 30 mpg and the other getting 31 mpg. Yes, on a 1000 mile trip you might save $5 using the car that gets 31 mpg but as far as one car making it the distance and the other not, it's only under conditions that are in such a precise window you'll likely never experience it. If you can, try to keep the units out of direct sunlight and wind as much as possible. Those two factors are the most detrimental to their lifespan, especially the covers and both brands behave similarly.
I just ordered an alternator for my G4200H, but I have a question on the wiring for the two spade terminals on the alternator. When I search other videos for "wiring three wire alternator", like this video ( ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VKYt8ndvZYc.html&ab_channel=VehicleFreak ), they all seem to just jumper one of the spade terminals to the main output post right on the alternator. The other spade terminal wire goes to indicator light, and then the wire after the indicator light goes to the switched power on the ignition switch. Is this the same for doing this mod on the Kubota?
I haven't done it yet, but I got a steering gear from a G1800 and will replace the present setup with the G1800 unit. It has an enclosed gear with bearings, etc running in oil. I did the alternator conversion a few years ago...
No. You didn't teach anything good. Mount it on a heavy plate of aluminum with fine 3/8 bolts. Don't use ether. It's way too easy to blow up the motor. I just wired the decompress lever up and cranked to clean out air. Use only 15W40 oil and real diesel fuel. I honed a 3/4 to 1 inch shaft sleeve to mount a big pulley. Cold weather? A kettle of hot water poured slowly right on the top of the cylinder. It wants a long gentle break in. Avoid the slowest and highest speeds.
One thing I noticed on my canopy/tent/carports is on my HF the condensation is awful. Dry when it's raining, but when it's cold out, it will actually be raining on the inside, while it's dry outside. The shelter logic does not have that issue. Less ventilation maybe?
The HF fabric only lasted a year and I replaced it with a Dayton tarp (16x30) and that lasted a year - but then I got a hay tarp from Murdocks and that lasted 3 years and now I see that I have to replace it again. I just put the new ones right over the old one and that adds a lot of strength - we have had some heavy snow and that idea seems to work best. The frame is great and I sunk some PT 4x4 beams in the ground and ran some long threaded rod from them up to the bottom of the frame and the wind has not been able to move or bend anything in over 7 years.
I had an older HF one up for years! You used to be able to buy a replacement cover for it, then they changed the style. I don't recall now how big it was. I used it to store hay. I just put a new 20x20 tarp on it every year. The frame is still in good condition. It's all slip joints. It doesn't have the anchor pins, but instead has pegs that go in the ground through the frame. Currently, I'm not using it, so I took it down. I'm planning on moving this year. Once I do, I'll be using the framework to build a greenhouse.
After a few of my own, and putting up SL and knock-off fabric shelters, I find the SL ones have a better assembly scheme, but the knock-offs are fine, if slightly more annoying. After dealing with the fabric replacement, while I’m sure the “premium” fabrics at their price would hold up fine (I’ve got a ‘professional’ fabric quonset that’s going on 10 years), when the fabric shreds on the current units under my care, I’m going to source some steel roofing or siding, and just screw the metal right to the frame. I’ve done this once already, and it turned out very rigid, and handles wind and snow just fine.
You mean not actually getting a rebate but rather "company store" money like the coal mining industry gave their employees?!? Wasn't that deemed illegal?
I can add a couple “cons” to the HF side. That white coated frame will rust and bend in just a few years, you’ll find yourself drilling and adding bolts or rivets to hold it together and having to dispose of the shredded cover in a year or two. The Shelter Logic is much higher quality overall. The SE cover’s not much better but you can buy a upgraded cover, for a price. After replacing the standard cover twice in 6 years, l upgraded to the top of the line cover. This cover is expensive but but there’s no comparison, my shelter has been up for 12 years and still has many more to go. Even with the upgraded cover the cost is still a fraction of what a more permanent shelter would be and can be quickly removed and stored if need be.
I have a Shelter Logic one set up 4 years ago, didint use the provided anchors as the corners were in too rocky spots, did set the frame on 5x20cm beam/balk to lift it up alittle and was easyer to level and square it out. plus could anchor it from that in any place i wanted, wind it not a major issue as it sits behind bigger structure to cover most of the heavy winds, the sun indeed have eated up the cover, sides are ok, on top i did lay a load cover, as one part have ripped, not sure im conna get a new cover, meybe install roofing sheets instead, did manage do find a 2nd door, so i can open up front and back the same time, that is quite nice
the texas sun ruined mine real quick less than a year, cost more to try and keep the thing held down maybe good for temp shelter but other than that just build something from wood your putting good money to bad.
I have a shelter logic shed that I have had for five years two things I did I purchased 2x6 for the shed to set on then anchored the 2x6 to the ground with re rod then naturally anchored the shed tubing to the 2x6, As far as the door I put a pice a pvc tubing in the bottom of the door then it is easy to roll up when you open it.
Hows the UV protection over the years? I bought a 12x12 gazebo and the roof rotted out in one year from the sun UV what a waste of money. So we bought a 12x12 gazebo from Cosco's oh and the cost was higher but its been up four years now metal roof all cedar uprights still going strong.
I have experience with both HF and Shelterlogic. I have a pile of broken frame parts, and deteriorated covers from HF. The frames fold under wind load, and as others have noticed, the material is subject to UV deterioration. I paid the higher price and bought the heavy duty frame from SL. The SL has withstood several years of wind storms and snow load. Considering the limited life of the HF, I think my SL has proven to be a better value over time. I received a wrong part from SL, and they immediately replaced within a couple of days, I am glad that others have had good luck with HF; my experience was different.
They make the price more on the smaller one, that way your more inclined to buy the bigger one. So you "get your moneys worth" its just a tactic to make you buy the bigger one
Really good video and I was thinking about buying the Harbor Freight shelter. Not sure if anyone mentioned this, but I would use heavy duty T-Post to anchor mine down. I used them for pop-up gazebos and they stay put. Plus you can attach ropes or wire to give the top support as well. Thank you for the good video!
