Bee R does not belong in any sort of internal combustion engines,period. Was running Ecumaster EMU Black at that time. Now building new 3.2l stroker engine with MaxxEcu Race.
Did any one find the solution to exactly what is happening in the video. Mine 2010 570. It only happens when hot. It starts first pop when cold . I have replaced the spring. My exhausts had .18mm clearance , I'm adjusting to 0.13 - 0.15mm see if it helps. If that doesn't I'll try complete cam and decomp weights out of a 2014 450. Concerned the cam profile may be wrong . Hence have no done it sooner.
Further research would suggests KTM got the location of the decomp cam wrong. The later cams bring it forward by 10 deg. So my cam is never going to work
@@jamesal0so now what? Use a later model cam? Is your particular cam wrong, or is it a model-wide problem. I have 570 that occasionally doesn't want to start when hot. Though it still cranks over fine, so it doesn't seem to be a decomp problem
Vvti target map in the idle range hunts between 0-15deg intake cam advance for extra overlap to mimic some crazy tight lobe seperation angle cams, even tho I had 272 BC cams in it which will idle very smoothly without any vvti manipulation when in most retarded position. So nothing wrong with the idle, I just made it to idle like that for purpose.
Unfortunately never got into that point. Also sold the bike 6 years ago which I still regret to this day. It made 70whp with stock displacement engine. Kinda been playing with an idea to get back into bikes, and find a clean 650 to build and make it full EFI converted with MaxxEcu mini or similar engine management system.
@@Marko-JZX100 man bummer. I had the same 2011 fs570 but in white and also greatly regret selling it as I’ve watched this video a while back got on the hunt for another white unfortunate results. They are becoming impossible to find. A 650 build would be awesome too tho 🤟🏼
I have a 390 with the same problem , does any one know if it is possible to replace just the spring? Does the autodecompressor sprinh from KTM 350 suit the Husaberg?
Sen 5 vuotta suurinpiirtein mitä tuon omisti, niin ainoat viat ja ongelmat alkoi virittämisen jälkeen vasta. :D Tuohon moottoriin ei ainakaan siihen aikaan luotettavia ja pitkäikäisiä nokkia löytynyt. Kolme vai neljä täytehitsattua ja hiottua akselia kokeilin, ja lopulta vakio nokan joutu laittamaan. 70hv renkaalta siitä sai irti rakennettuna ja oli hauska pyörä motokäytössä. Alustan joutu teetättämään shimmityksiltään toimivamman asfaltille samoin jarrut, vanteet kunnolliset. Moottori kestää kyllä vakiona aivan loputtomiin asti kunhan öljyjä vaihtaa max 10h välein, ja nokkaketjun kiristäjän mekaaniseen versioon. Enduroon mitä mainioin kapistus. Oikeaksi supermotoksi ei tuosta ole ilman isoja muutoksia, ja helpommalla pääsee sen suhteen 450 nelari crossien kanssa. Katuräppäilyyn tuo oli rakennettuna paras härveli millä ajellut koskaan.
@@hondamies8062 Tuo 70ast moottorikonstruktion huomaa kyllä ajaessa. Sai tuon ison möhkönkin tuntumaan ajossa melko ketterälle. Runko ja alusta on täyttä enskaa. 390 sopii kyllä tekniseen ajoon, jos siirtymiä tulee yleisillä teillä paljon tai tykkää fiilistellä metsäautoteillä niin mikään ei voita 570 tuomaa vääntöä. Etunen on aina kohti taivasta. :)
Check my other video of launch control testing. Very rough and lumpy idle because I purposely had the intake cam advance oscillating between 0-10deg advance at idle. With steady ~2-3deg advance and lambda 1 at idle it really idles like stock lol.
@@RabidJz It's all in the tuning. I played with idle ignition timing, lean/rich mixtures and vvt-i controlling. You can get rotary like idle if the ignition jumps a lot around and cam advances/retards back and forth. Running past lambda 1 also makes rough idle. BC272 cams are not that really aggressive, but they do have a nice tone. GSC S2's are really lumpy and rough tho.
@@yungtraplord5460 im in finland and closest where you can get chasers then is russia. They are around the same price that they are in japan but way more rusted. I myself would just buy old merc with om606 etc.
Excel pro-series hubs with interchangeable carriers for rear sprocket and rotor, front rotor and wheel spacers for almost any make and model bikes. Rims are Excel 3.50"x16.5" front and 5.00"x17" rear.
They were already stretched and worn too much to the point there was huge slack on few spots and snug elsewhere. Tuner wanted to do full throttle run from idle, but was afraid of the chain cutting his leg. 😅 Now that I have my GoPro back in action I might record some street action messing around. Quite fun bike now after getting everything sorted out. 😏
Camshaft auto-decompression shaft was ground faulty. I have a custom made cam and the shaft lobe profile was too steep. I switched the shaft from my other custom cam that had broken exhaust lobe from improper welding. Now everything works perfectly. :)
+Marko Sandelin thats good for you i have a 2010 390, when cold, starts with the first touch of button. But when hot, most of the times needs a touch of throttle. Trying to find the solution...any thoughts?
+toulioss Too many variables with a description like that. Could be TPS out of range on closed throttle and needs adjustment. Is the bike stock and how many hours? Better flowing exhaust and derestricted map in the ecu helps a lot. Fuel pumps are notorious to go bad also. Usually the bike stalls and is hard to start when hot. The impeller jams in the pump and after cool down the tolerances loosen up and the pump works again for a while. Start with the easiest and most obvious things. Check TPS voltage when throttle is closed (bike shut down, but electricals powered up), fuel filter inside tank (should be changed every 50-70 hours), valve lash check.
2010 390 stock, Akrapovic muffler, enduro riding, 200 hours. Changed fuel pump and intank filter 5 hours ago(had the issues you mentioned above), bike now runs great. Before the fuel pump change, when the bike was hot, it needed 2-3 tries to start, always touch of throttle. After the new pump, bike hot, starts always first try, most times touch of throttle needed. I ll check the valves and TPS next. Any chance i can check the function of the camshaft and Auto Decompress without taking it apart?What should i look for? I read in husaberg.org that there were few camshaft issues back then.
Ai sulla oli vielä tää. Tuli itse hankittua 570 tuossa keväällä, mukava peli. Osaisitko suositella jotain kohtuu kustannustehokkaita piristyksiä koneelle. Pyörä muuten vakio, mutta putkistona akrapovic ja dynossa säädetty. Ohan tuo jo nyt paljon veikeämpi kuin vanha kotarin 450 tai muut vastaavat, mutta lisää tehoa tarvii aina :D
Kansi + tuo iso Ducatin läppärunko. Sillein noin 7-10hv lisää simppelisti ja ennenkaikkea ei mene yläkierroksilla tukkoon! Mulla on aikalailla vakio iskutilavuudelle kaikki tehtynä ja enempää ei oikein muulla konstein tule kuin kunnon säädettävällä eculla. Seuraavaksi ehkä 664cc strokeri vieläkin rajummalla nokalla ja puristuksilla + puhtaalla kilpapensalla taikka E85. Rupeaa ehkä sen 80-90hv lähentelemään renkaalta... ;) En vain tiedä mitä järkeä siinä enää on, kun nykyisillä tehoillakaan ole kauhean helppo ajaa motoradoilla. :D Se Akran putki ei ihan paras mahdollinen ole. FMF tai Doma voisin suositella. Akra käyttää vakio käyrästöä heti sen oman tuuttinsa jälkeen mikä lähtee kannesta.
No periaatteessa joo, ja päälle vielä vitun huonoa tuuria. Se nokka korjattuna kesti 10 min ja lohkes palanen pakonokan kärjestä. Tuli avattua kone kokonaan sen jälkeen ja tarkisteltua mitä muutakin meni. Kaikki oli ok, ja päätin vaihtaa samalla uuden kiertokangen vielä kun sopivasti akseli oli irtaallaan. Kone nippuun vakio nokalla, ja kesti 15min ja CP:n mäntä päätti juntata imupuolen helmasta kunnolla kiinni sylinteriin. Renkaat ihan tohjona mäntään hirttäneenä. Syy = Keraaminen palotilapinnoite oli ropissut palasina irti kannesta ja meni männän ja sylinterin väliin sekä venttiilien seeteihin. Nyt vajaa pari viikkoa taas ähränneenä laitoin vakio männällä kasaan kun sattu sopivasti vielä nurkissa olemaan tallessa. Sorvissa pyöräytin 1mm pois lastua sylinterin alapäästä ja saman verran männän laesta, ns. homemade korkeapuristus motti tuli ja rutut takas 13:1 hujakoilla sekä squish n. 1mm. Toimimattoman ekan version virinokan sain kuntoon laittamalla siitä hajonneesta nokasta puolipuristajan akselin, ja nyt lähtee kunnolla käyntiin tuolla nokalla mikä ei aiemmin toiminut. :D Jospa tuo nyt toimisi edes tunnin verran. :D
@NoNoNoNii well there are 450cc bikes that get 60hp so a 570 would be able to reach that but in this case I am pretty sure husaberg traded some power to make it stronger and not blow up as fast and need less work done to it. Have seem people doing valves after 2000 miles and it is still fine while some 450's need valves done every 1000 miles or even 600 miles. So if you want a hoon bike like a sumo but not have to deal with maintenance as much this is probably the better option out there.
Hi Marko, I saw on a comment u said that amg injector nozzles fits 290TD injectors, is that true, is it a bolt on swap? I am thinking of building a 400+ hp sprinter :))))
Hi, it's very hard to tell as I have sold the benz almost 2 years ago. :D What I still remember is that bosio made powerplus nozzles that were only marginally larger hole size. I contacted Darkside Developments in Uk, and they promised to make custom nozzles with any hole sizes possible for about 550-600€. I would install inline M-pump with 8mm elements, and get rid of that rotary crap.
Marko Sandelin well nowadays everybody has a om606/605 with superpump, it's becoming too common :)) I was curious about the 290td potential too, a super-sprinter with that engine @400+ hp would be awsome :)))
