iDoStuff - woodworking to building restoration and much more in between, craft skills and practical knowledge. I hope it inspires others to enjoy doing stuff for themselves.
How much should I expect to pay for an inspdction of a 2yr old fitting of flue & woodburner as I heard a massive crash and think the liner has also fallen. Many thanks
If there is anything left on the ceiling, wash it off with a wet cloth. avoid sanding as this creates dust that you don't want to be inhaling. These coating where often applied to cover up plaster that had cracks in it, you may find you need to do some remedial work before repainting. Various fillers and reinforcing tapes are available.
I thought the liner should go to the top of the chimney pot, otherwise there's a sudden drop in temperature as soon as the exhaust gases get to there, so you'll get smoke hanging around the top.
@@idostuffcouk I’m shocked I’m the 1st to ask. If you do end up making and selling them please let me know b/c I’ll share on a dark academia decor group I’m in…I think they’ll love it.
Hey man that really helped, this video is 14 years old, I am watching it in 2024! Love it, simply love it. I do have a question or two... 1. What is acrylic sealant, any company that I can look up and order from? 2. Can we avoid glue on the back for the mouldings? so incase a panel needs to be replaced, we can pry open the moulding and replace them with new ones? That's something that I have seen in glass paneled doors/windows with mullions/muntins. Would appreciate any reply :) Cheers
Hi, Now you are making me feel old. Just to note That door is still doing well and just having it's first repaint. The acrylic sealant is widely available in the UK, generically called frame sealant commonly used around door frames and windows. Yes the beading holding the panels in can be pinned (nailed) or even screwed on. However if you have built it well you shouldn't have to replace the panels (not in my life time anyway). Unlike glass it is highly unlikely to get broken.
Great job, that is not an easy install!! I’ve been learning the trade for a year now and I’m loving it. I like to watch these videos as everyone has their own little ways of doing things. Nice to get a few tips thank you
I am not a DIY chap but I have a ceiling with Artex that I want to remove the dreadful stuff. I will. I will give it ago after watching your video. Thank you for sharing.
one thing I noticed is this doesn't work if it's modern cement based artex, which is an absolute nightmare to remove, the only way to do it is with a steamer, chisel and hammer and it takes ages.
Excellent tutorial! I have no intention of attempting this myself (being shit at DIY) but it's nice to see how it's done for when I get in a professional. Thanks for sharing.
Great video, any suggestions for a collar that doesnt slide up the pipe? My collar has a smaller rectanular hole that dosent allow me to slide it up as shown.
So you sealed the rear brickwork, with a fire rate sealer is it possible to get a clear sealent as we have been advised in our area 50mm is minuium.I believe so steel closure in this area suburb of London. A first class video
How would I go about installing a stove into fireplace that has a concrete liner? I removed a working open fireplace when I renovated my property but want to put a stove back in. Registered installers want to fit a stainless flue which I think could be overkill for my situation, especially if I can't get a liner down the existing flue.
Great video mate. Just a quick Question. My adapter that goes onto the flexi doesn’t appear to have holes in it (to screw to the flexi) should I drill and use self tappers or will it be ok without screws?
I can't answer you on that, apart from to say that the adaptor has to be securely fixed to the flexi. Some manufacturers have adapters that screw on to the flexi but they have to match. If it is not secure the chances are that they will come apart especially whilst sweeping but due to expansion and contraction during use they could come apart as well. I suggest you contact the manufacturer or sales outlet.
Sorry I know this is an old video but can I ask, is it possible to alter the pipe once you've used the fire cement? I ask because we've got one in the house that the previous owners put in but put it really forward and I'd like it to use the top hole and have it inside the fire place like this one! Thank you
I think you are asking if you can change from a rear exit to a top exit flue? Yes if you still can have the correct clearance at the back of the stove. Fire cement is brittle and not very "sticky" at all. If you tap around the pipe and do some twisting and pulling it should come out without damaging the pipe or adaptor assuming you can get any screws out first.
It doesn't look as hard as the experts make it sound! I'm just about to get a stove installed inside my Victorian cast iron fireplace. I was told you had to remove them but have since found out you don't.
Brilliant idea. I am currently tackling my bathroom ceiling. The house is 20 years old so I'm not expecting it to be asbestos based. I've smoked for best part of 40 years so a bit of dust from my ceiling is the least of my worries. Will still wear a mask though. I have tried sanding a small section and even with a shop vac connected to the sander, the dust was biblical. I've scrapped that idea. Was looking to get a re-skim but will try your method first. Nothing to lose and could be a game changer. Many thanks for sharing your experience and idea.
Unfortunately not. Not sure what the "artex" type product actually is but it was more durable and tolerant of moisture than I hoped. Ended up biting the bullet and sanding the bulk of it down with a random orbit sander with 60 grit discs, regular cleaning of the shop vac filter to cope with the worst of the dust. Then sealed with 2 coats of diluted SBR (50:50 with water), then reskimmed the next day. The SBR is far superior to PVA and sealed the surface really well and vastly improved the plastering process. First time I've used SBR (always used PVA before). SBR is deffo the way to go and worth the extra cost. Not sure I really needed to sand the artex so heavily, in hindsight I reckon I could have skipped that step (and dust). I'm no expert on artex type materials but I suspect that the modern stuff is designed to be a lot more durable than the stuff from the 80's and 90's. No harm in trying a small area using the paste and newspaper trick first though before plumping for the effort and cost of a reskim. You've nothing to lose. Sadly, didn't work on my ceiling.
Hey Mate .i have removed a gas back boiler that was installed with a heavy single wall stainless liner years ago….could i use it with a 5Kw stove,do You think?.or do i need to replace it .its heavy spiral 316 and shame to pay over £1000 just to replace the liner.Ive just been given a quote
When it comes to sealing the stove pipe to the adaptor with a 'smear' of fire cement, what if the stove pipe is 5mm wider than the adaptor...as in my case?
It should be a closer fit than that, 5mm does sound a bit much. I would have a look at the manufacturers specifications and see if they are within tolerance and check if the adaptor is to small or the stove pipe too big. It would be better to get them so the fit is better as fire cement ends up brittle and is likely to fall out of the gap. It is tricky but sometimes larger gaps can be packed out with fire rope but at 2.5mm you would have to strip some down to make "fire string" to wrap around that can then be covered with fire cement.
@idostuffcouk Been there, done that, got HETAS involved...all a complete waste of time. Fitter got suspended and lucky not to lose his registration as the install got condemned by the inspector.Just want to do it properly myself now.
@@jacktrubshaw4576 Hopefully he'll enjoy the prequel, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RcVxKqkcCMc.htmlsi=j9TdRZJSQcTM2JnT, just as much. 😁
This fire pit is one of a few covered pits that is on the list ru-vid.comUgkxAU9pOCSV9Y5JprooHvfxTpOrt4hx8uRM of approved products for Disney Fort Wilderness. The product served its purpose well and provided excellent fires throughout the evening. We were able to open the door and do s'mores, but I had to be careful because the handle was a bit hot on occasions. Additionally, I wish they had replaced some of the standard nuts with lock nuts in some places. We lost the door handle after just a couple of days of usage. Not a deal breaker, just a recommendation. I still give it 5 stars.
The collar on the top of the stove I’ve bought has its securing bolts (3) actually inside the collar, so the stove can’t slide in under the bottom end of the stovepipe - which has to drop in from above. I’m hoping there will be enuf flexibility in the length of the liner to give me the 2-3 inches I’ll need. The top of the flue pipe is secured to the cowl which in turn is jubilee clipped to the pot and the side straps bent horizontal and cemented down to create a sloping run-off for rain. Any comments would help re the amount of play in liner length - plus stove is v heavy (64kg) Mike D
Yes some stoves fit the collar from the inside, all the ones I have done can be screw on with nuts and bolts from the inside of the stove. It can be awkward with a long reach socket but is doable. Obviously you have to take out the baffle as you would for sweeping.
