Hi Brendon, I’m in Australia, I bought mine second hand as I didn’t have time to build one from scratch. Hats off to you for completing yours within the timeframe that you mentioned and with a young family 👍. I am having trouble finding time just to strip mine down and fix anything that is needed and paint it as it was in storage for over 9 years. I’ll send some pics when I get it together and hopefully turns out as well as yours.🍺🍺
Message me if you need any advice. Always willing to help. Really interested in your photos. You can see the build photos of mine here instagram.com/madguernseyboy?igsh=bWg2M20yZ2U3bnR5&
I have made them 2 years ago.. I did find at first there were some issues around clearances so decided at the time to not fit until the loco was finished. now that is the case I intend to have another look one day.. Where are you located? I would love to see some photos of yours.
Hi Brendan Ive tried many times to get this message through to you not sure why it does'nt show in comments Not sure if my last comment was registered so i will try again First of all Well Done, you've done a fantastic job of your first Loco, I take my hat off to you, in at the deep end just like i was with my Metre Maid and in a short space of time. If like you. you have the "Will" and "Ambition to overcome all the trials and tribulations along the the way you will and have suceeded. Absolutetly Great It's just like my friends 7.1/4" ( NYC&HRR ) New York Central & Hudson River Rail Road loco whom i have bee helping to get re-commissioned after he bought it from someone approx. 10 years ago and only just plucked the courage up to get it on to the track, you may have seen the video's i put up of it here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cIzDiZwi2qQ.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zp8v5W-UNDE.html ru-vid.comIroLOV3yQ34 All the best with your next loco after you've caught up with all the DIY jobs Well Done Brendan keep in touch and thanks for the shout out in your credits, much appreciated Take Care Kev
No am not sure this why I ended up buying From the USA, You could try www.abssac.co.uk/c/Precision+Lead+Screws+Nuts/45/ But I think it’s all metric. If you have a travelling steady it shouldn’t be too hard to make one if you have the time that is ;)
Great video I noticed it’s a recent video and you probably haven’t used it muck but I also have a WM12 and about to do the same thing adding a stepper to X but the second controller with built in driver has 4 amp but stepper is 4.5 amp did you get any problems with it.
It has work quite well. But a bigger amperage would be better. I have found if you push it too hard the controller stops working and you have to power cycle it to get it back working. This has been a mixed blessing. It stops you pushing the machine too hard but can be a pain when it stops.
@@madguernseyboy thanks Brendan that was the reason I asked because someone said 4 amps and above it’s better to take it apart the driver just unplugs and just use the controller with a separate driver, I have just motorised my rotary table using world of wards controller and I can add a second driver to that so when cutting a clock wheel or pinion I can unplug from the controller like you have and plug it into world of warden controller and have the one controller run the rotary table and the X slide together chuffed with the powered rotary table. I am also looking to convert to belt drive
That’s sounds great. Check out this mod I did to my lathe. Very Similar what you described Arduino digital rotary table indexer Myford ML10 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-neeAtphI_UE.html
All useful stuff for mill improvements, thanks. It'd be good if you could post all links for the motor and the drive as I may consider this too. For those without such a sophisticated dti it would also be sufficient to put an 85 degree bend on some 1/4" silver steel and place the short end in the chuck or collet, I wouldn't expect to see any clock deflection during rotation. Once it's positioned into it's left or right & front or rear sweep to the parked positions, to improve the approach onto to the stylus it's better to bring a small ground block of steel from the rear of the nib onto the stylus ball , that way it avoids any sideload onto the stylus as shown in your first method.
Hope this helps Stepper motor controller www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126043302279 Coupler www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01M3P27YS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 NEMA 23 Stepper motor www.cnc4you.co.uk/Stepper-Motor/Nema23-2.2Nm/Stepper-Motor-2.2Nm-57HS82-3008B-Nema23
@@madguernseyboy I would have done the same. It's not a commercial machine being flogged every day by some gorilla. You worked within your limits at the time, and it's paid off.
Nice one Brendan, i like the mods, i have to wrestle with my very old taiwanese mini mill, every time i do a job, but guess who wins🤣🤣👍👍👍👍 loco's looking well cheers Kev
Very nice, looks like a real runner, lol. It looks like your fire/burner might be running a little on the high side by the relief valve constantly blowing off over and over again.
eyup Brendan Great to see the 1st Steam Test, i remember mine well!!!, Its stressfull when that water drops low on the glass. especially when everyone's watching!!!!! well done see you next time Kev
Hi there. I'm thinking of getting the WM 12 to replace my pulley driven drill press, as I really want variable speed. It will be used for both wood work and metal work. Other than the fact that the wm12 has less height capacity than a floor standing drill press, can you think of a reason not to go for it? I only do small wooden projects. Seems like a mill can do everything a drill press can and more?
It’s a good little mill. When I bought it it was all I could afford at the time. Since I have built a locomotive using it. See Instagram.com/madguernseyboy It does everything the floor staying pillar drill does. Except perhaps has a little less power. It might be a bit noisier too as it is gear driven internally. If you intend to do any milling then of course it’s the right choice over the pillar drill. If it’s drilling only then have you considered a benchtop drill with a compound vice? I hope this helps…
@Brendan Gill thanks. I've just noticed it only has 42mm vertical travel with the hand wheel for drilling. So do you just raise the head to drill deeper?
@@SirBenJamin_ yes but do remember you need to fit in a drill Chuck and drill to it. Minus any space taken by a vice. The vertical space on the wm12 is limited.
Have same problem also. Had shaft reamachined ro remove wear, made new nut to suit. Shaft is 5/8", so had room to do it. If needed will follow what you did. Thanks.
Its currently 3d printed. it requires three braces fitting. But I am unsure weather to fit them currently. In it current configuration if it hits something it sheers off and comes easily away from the locomotive. It only takes me 4 days to print, cleanup and refit to the loco. Perhaps once I am satisfied with it I will either fit Bracing or make one from steel.
Hello Brendan, You've made a smashing job...I do hope you share the steam test with us. Wishing you a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year, Take care. Paul,,
hi Bredan Bloody Marvellous, looks very much like my friends larger 7 1/4" New York Central & Hudson River Rail Road Looco & Tender which i posted on YT a short while back, good luck with the test. Great job Have you made the boiler ATB Kev
Thanks kev. i guess its not clear from the video that when I started I was effectibvly a total machining beginner. So when I decided about the boiler, the time, money and skill required was key decision in making one. In the end I had one TIG welded by www.steamtechnology.co.uk/ very happy with it.
Thanks for the detailed review of this Indian made QCTP............Many years ago, in the late 50's, I served my apprenticeship on the mines in South West Africa, now Namibia, and the lathe I was put on had this type of tool post and the rear tool post as well. A few years later I built a small micro lathe and just had to make a QCTP for it too...........now long in retirement I have a 1930 Colchester Bantam lathe and I fitted it with the wedge type QCTP, but seeing the type in the video from India...... it's so appealing....... I'm highly tempted to go a bundle and re-equip the lathe with that type......it's true you can't have too many tool holders. The wedge type of tool holder is extremely easy to make but this type in the video will take some making with hardening and grinding too......for the price from India just not worth the bother.
I agree!!! My free time is so valuable these days, time in the workshop is limited. Wasting my time making tool holders your can buy so cheap is not economical.
