Modified is acceptable with the GoBoard. Shluter underlayment wants you to use Non-modified for warranty. Like they are going to come and process what type of thinset you used?
Recently thinking about switching to GoBoard for wall prep instead of Durock.. hope things are going well!! 🙏🏽 Does GoBoard still work well for your shower builds?
GoBoard is the Greatest. Carry 5 sheets at a time. It breaks clean, and the extra price is well worth the saved effort. And your customer is paying for it.
I'm sorry if you were misled, I have never used drywall in a shower area. As well, liquid waterproofing is every bit as waterproof as membrane if applied to manufacturer specs.
In this example, how or could you do this with the floor joist running the opposite direction? In my case the floor joist (I Joist) is running the opposite direction of how my shower needs to be placed.
With the "I" joist running perpendicular to the drain, I suggest you put the drain at the entry. At the back wall you would need to cut into the joist and that is not recommended. As well I would use the "ProLine", stainless drain not the "Showerline" PVC. The stainless drain is more shallow.
A BIG step is missing in this video. He said he doesn't frame a niche ahead of time... that he simply cuts a hole for the niche where it works with the selected tile. But... then you seen him laying in the bottom of the niche and firmly pushing down on it. Whats supporting it? He also mentions screwing in the side which is another good trick since he claims he doesn't do any framing ahead of time.
No framing is necessary. The pressed in GoBoard with the proper caulk will hold everything in place. Go ahead and pre frame and let me know if your grout joints are in perfect alignment after installing the tile.
I made a little 1 foot by 1 foot “ swimming pool” out of go board and go board sealant caulk and let it dry.. filled it with water and 2 weeks later still not leaking.. VERY IMPRESSIVE STUFF !
The walls on top and bottom of the inside are just pressure fit. The GoBoard is easy to trim to fit. The elastometric caulk then seals and holds everything together.
i never saw you actually install the waterproof membrane........also never saw actual finished product......i want to see how you finished that triangular edge that dives into the floor .......is this a schluter type pan/membrane ??? because i didnt see you install a sub drain either
Typically I paint on a liquid waterproofing. This being a steam I used the Schluter membrane over the QuickDrain slope panels. Walls and ceiling were also wrapped in membrane. The triangle wedge I filled with tile at the bench end and filled the rest with grout. The Prism grout is bomb proof. As long as the membrane overlaps the PVC drain all the water goes down the drain. No sub drain. I have photos I'll see if I can attach them somehow. FYI that house burned to the ground in the Marshall fire outside Boulder this time last year. Shame
Thank you for your video Steve. What about when you have the scenario with I-Joists, I'm assuming you could no longer utilize a linear drain in this case, or the only solution would be to have the linear drain installed parallel with the I-Joist.
Hey Steve great videos for Quickdrain. What brand reinforcement fabric for wall to floor transitions would you recommend for using liquid Redgard waterproofing? Also, should I use same fabric to go over drain body for reinforcement? Redgard recommends using fabric at all transitions but doesn't make it. Thanks.
Title of video *"YOUR BRACKET FAIL"* 🤔🤣🤣adding a peices of back wood to screws the plywood 🤣🤣🤣 So easy and cheaper to screwed a 2x4 to support your new plywood... 😞 Plus that metal thing you need to screwed to the top... SO YOU LOOSING SPACE WITH THE METAL AND SCREWS ON THE TOP OF THE BEAM. I'm wrong?
GoBoard is a great ptoduct however Hell to work with because of the fiberglass that free flys everywhere. I wore long sleeves, gloves tucked over sleeves babypower on any exposed areas and still fiberglass got me.
Just batten screw 90x45mm to the joists and use one 19mm layer of ply on top. Will save your client heaps of money, give a smoother and better finish, and save 2mm in not using your brackets.
I just built a GoBoard niche in a tub surround following your example here. Thanks! I used 1/2" GoBoard for backer on the walls. Why do you use Densshield instead of Goboard as your backerboard for areas outside the niche?
Probably because it is more rigid. If grab bars will be installed, be careful with using foamboard tile backer. There is enough give to enable the tile to crack when securing the grab bars down. Putting backer material in with construction adhesive behind the foamboard tile backer board, where the grab bars are secured, will probably make it rigid enough.
Thanks for the helpful video. Yours is the only video I could find showing how to install a Showerline double drain, which is precisely what I needed for an 8-foot long shower. I purchased two Showerline linear drains for this application and followed your video to enable me to get them properly installed. My project is a long, narrow shower, so the drains are installed down the center of the shower space, with slope from each side toward the middle. Much appreciated!
Disappointed you didnt put soomething more than a piece of plywood in to support that piece of plywood. Should of headered it off or sistered the joyce! Really should of ripped plywood other direction. And why not rip old floor out to center of joyce???? Show actual work. But nice clean job
If you simply draw a line with a nice sharp pencil in the center of the fabric it will fold naturally. I like your roller. It seems to spread the waterproofing nice. I always use a 3 inch brush. I'll have to explore that style roller though.
