Well done, Sir. I appreciate your great explanations too. Would you be so kind as to please you provide a detailed list of materials, time and approximate cost for the job.
Rapid Recess brackets are available from Wedi for around $225. Linear drain from Quickdrainusa available through me or Ferguson Plumbing around $650. I can usually install the brackets, drain and waterproofing in a day.
Just batten screw 90x45mm to the joists and use one 19mm layer of ply on top. Will save your client heaps of money, give a smoother and better finish, and save 2mm in not using your brackets.
Thank you for your video Steve. What about when you have the scenario with I-Joists, I'm assuming you could no longer utilize a linear drain in this case, or the only solution would be to have the linear drain installed parallel with the I-Joist.
Nice demonstration! Though I don't see the benefit of the rapid recess brackets vs adding 2x4 ledgers on regular 2x joists. I can see it being of more value on the engineered joists where you would have to do more work to add 2x ledgers. You seem like a good conscientious craftsman. I appreciate good folks who take extra time to make sure it's done right even if it winds up coming out of their bottom line.
Tight spaces and sometimes filled with venting. If there is crowing in the bays you won't know until you crack open the subfloor. If you have these it wont matter. I use lumber where I can, and these when I cannot.
I would and wouldn't trust 2x4s being married onto the joists to support the weight. Especially considering most people are going to be using non-structural screws or hell, even NAILS that have no sheer rating... Even though it's a small space, it's still not "technically" kosher....
Moreover, looking at it, I don't see how that could possibly have been waterproofed with that second sheet of drywall... that gap wasn't waterproofed, then you slid the drain in to it... unless you squished a topical waterproof membrane into the slot and hoped it got 100% of the exposed gypsum etc, then I don't see how you can guarantee it be waterproofed.
The drain flangers wider than 1/2" and for the tile to tuck behind the drain cover the wall needs to be furred out 1/4" ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SjFYWRiSbZw.html
In this example, how or could you do this with the floor joist running the opposite direction? In my case the floor joist (I Joist) is running the opposite direction of how my shower needs to be placed.
With the "I" joist running perpendicular to the drain, I suggest you put the drain at the entry. At the back wall you would need to cut into the joist and that is not recommended. As well I would use the "ProLine", stainless drain not the "Showerline" PVC. The stainless drain is more shallow.
i never saw you actually install the waterproof membrane........also never saw actual finished product......i want to see how you finished that triangular edge that dives into the floor .......is this a schluter type pan/membrane ??? because i didnt see you install a sub drain either
Typically I paint on a liquid waterproofing. This being a steam I used the Schluter membrane over the QuickDrain slope panels. Walls and ceiling were also wrapped in membrane. The triangle wedge I filled with tile at the bench end and filled the rest with grout. The Prism grout is bomb proof. As long as the membrane overlaps the PVC drain all the water goes down the drain. No sub drain. I have photos I'll see if I can attach them somehow. FYI that house burned to the ground in the Marshall fire outside Boulder this time last year. Shame
Is there any reason why i couldn't put my linear drain where you walk into the shower (normally where the curb is) instead of at the back of the shower?
In this applicationi, the linear shower drain would be running at an angle, and it would not drain properly. The only other way to do this would be put it in the center, then slope from both walls inwards, or put it all the way to the shower trim side and slope it in the opposite direction. However, I'm not even sure how that'll work, because I would assume there was a glass wall in this application on the left side, opposite the bench.
I actually found them on my own google search, they were 16-18"x4' and they were pretty cheap, I want to say it was going to cost me less than $100 for my 3.5'x3.5' shower. I am going to have to look through my history, though, because the tab isn't on my browser anymore and it's been at least a month-2 months. Good thing I don't use my computer all that much. Here is the website the guy used, though: www.noblecompanyonlinestore.com/c-17-pro-slope-kits.aspx
I'm sorry if you were misled, I have never used drywall in a shower area. As well, liquid waterproofing is every bit as waterproof as membrane if applied to manufacturer specs.
Disappointed you didnt put soomething more than a piece of plywood in to support that piece of plywood. Should of headered it off or sistered the joyce! Really should of ripped plywood other direction. And why not rip old floor out to center of joyce???? Show actual work. But nice clean job
Title of video *"YOUR BRACKET FAIL"* 🤔🤣🤣adding a peices of back wood to screws the plywood 🤣🤣🤣 So easy and cheaper to screwed a 2x4 to support your new plywood... 😞 Plus that metal thing you need to screwed to the top... SO YOU LOOSING SPACE WITH THE METAL AND SCREWS ON THE TOP OF THE BEAM. I'm wrong?
