My channel is dedicated to transmission building for all applications. I specialize in General Motors, Ford and Dodge rear wheel drive transmissions from the 60s through present day. My target audience includes general auto-repair enthusiasts, DYI'ers & dedicated transmission builders with an emphasis on bringing newer folks into the transmission rebuilding space.
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Tell more about the .001" oversize valves.what if only one land is worn?what if there's only wear on one side of the bore?which is nearly always the case.i call bs on the thousandths over repair valve.theres a few reasons that approach to restore hydraulic integrity will end in failure
Your comments should be directed at Transgo, Sonnax, STech and others who make them, not those who use them. Go ahead, call them up and tell them you call "bs" on their products (and by extension, their engineers, tech folks and developers of those products). Let me know what they say. I never had any problems with any OS drop in valves and been using them all for years. I vacuum test any locations where they are installed so if they're too tight I polish the bores until the fitment is good to go. If a drop in valve doesnt seal adequately (bore is simply too worn, sealing integrity still not achieved) I ream it for an OS valve if a reamer and valve is avail. If not, the whole casting gets replaced.
Your opinion on if its worth the hassle to source a 3 friction drum from a pto optioned truck? Love the videos! been binge watching all day, and already will have a better build on my next 4r100 !! But I just cant do the dry frictions!!! :-)
Thanks for the kind words, Val...Unless you're going to be doing a lot of serious duty towing/hauling, etc it's prob not worth it but your call...Also, there's no harm in soaking frictions, but it makes it a lot harder for you to detect potential problems in the case when the pump's installed and you're spinning the input shaft. That's primarily why I keep them dry.
Hi Spencer, while I dont quote pricing on YT, you can reach out to me with your first name and phone no via direct message on Tahoeyukonforum.com. My user name there is NickTransmissions. Id be happy to chat with you about an AOD rebuild.
So just finished a rebuild of a 93 4l80. It had internal damage. After installing Itnwont shift into 4th and it won't lock up. Not sure what's going on could it be a wiring issue?
Hi Sparky, thanks for watching. Could be either an electrical or mechanical issue...Have you scanned the PCM and taken it for a test drive with live transmission or engine data displayed? If not, I'd do that first to see if the PCM is commanding a 3-4 upshift and/or lock up. Did you - Air check the case to confirm all the applied elements were working? - Air check your overdrive clutch housing with overdrive clutch pack installed to validate the lip seals were installed correctly and clutch would work when the 4th apply circuit was charged?
Great video I wish I would off put a 4r 70 in my 63 falcon. That said can you tell me if a trans go hi rev kit will help with the quick up shifting my trans does? I’m mean it’s shifting to 2nd gear before I cross the street from a stop just normal driving and in OD before 40mph it really Boggs my motor down. I do have 3.73 rear gears with a 25” tire. Thanks for vidieo.
Hi Matt, thanks for the kind words...Assuming you have an AOD with a stock gear train (ie not a 4R70 gear train swapped in) the Transgo AOD HP reprogramming kit should help you with recalibrating the shift points so you're not stack shifting from 1st to 2nd and bogging in OD as described...The 3.73s are likely part of the reason it's shifting so quickly...
Hi Nick, Is it me or your pump stick out about 1/8" or so is this OK,? Mine is fully seated on the inside but sticks out a little. I did use a pump saver plate so that may raise it?
@@nickstransmissions you put me at ease. That's it finished the 4l80e trans build. Your videos are awesome and very detailed. Don't think I could of done it without your help. Thanks Dave
great video, as always. Very helpful for making sense of my TH350C. If you put a 4L60E low roller clutch assembly in, is it necessary to also upgrade to a 4L60E center support and inner race, or can you drop the 4L60E roller assembly into the TH350 center support and keep the TH350 inner race? Thanks!
Thanks, Matt - appreciate the feedback. You will need to swap the center support and the 4L60E low roller as a service pack, they won't interchange individually...The 4L60E low roller is too tall to fit properly into the TH350 (or very early 700R4) center support. The races are the same, I believe but you'll want to verify....
Incredible content - thank you. There is such a lack of 6r80 rebuild content. I just rebuilt my 6r80 valve body and assembled the valves wet with trans fluid. Can I test the halves if the valves are wet with fluid? Will it give an artificially false high vacuum reading?
Thank you for the kind words, Tim! Yes, you can test it as-is since you assemebled with fresh trans fluid. While your readings may be slightly high relative to what they would be dry, I dont think it would make a material difference...
I got a pile of these valve bodies I've started going through. I see the same wear on pretty much all of them, A, D1/E and pressure regulator valve. I've got a few with excessive bypass control valve wear, but for the most part they all vac the same. Very similar to yours. It's a shame, valve bodies used to be cheap for these then when lead frames were unavailable the price doubled.
Yep, they are wear in the same spots...In fact the all three of the six-speed variants, GM, Ford and ZF are largely all the same in terms of what goes wrong and how you build them. GM is a little different than the other two, owing to the massive engineering changes they made to the base ZF design but I rebuild every one of those transmissions exactly the same way...Only real difference is when high performance or extreme duty is the application, I start adding billet parts.... Thanks for watching, Rob!
It's a Transgo part used to tighten up band clearance as most factory spec bands have too much which results in a harsher than usual 1-2 shift and excessive wear on the band anchors.
Hi, no need to send fan mail (I appreciate it!) but I do like coffee :) Any support here would be greatly appreciated : buymeacoffee.com/nickstransmissions
Hey Nick, I rewatched your video, really enjoyed level of detail. I have a gold ring I pulled out of transmission. Have no idea where it came from. Its about 3.4 inches by 3.4 inches. Any thoughts? Can I send you an email to take look? I would also pay you for your time. Thx mate
@@nickstransmissions thanks Nick! Here is another good question, what are your thoughts on the longer servo pin? I picked up a corvette servo, should I use the gold ring still?
You can download the manual here: atsgbookstore.com/4l60e-4l65e-4l70e-update-handbook/ You always want the ATSG or ATRA manual for the unit you're working on handy, especially if you're new to transmission rebuilding. My videos will get you really close but having the manual in combination with those videos will give you everything you need to work on or rebuild the transmission correctly the first time.
1969 f250 C6. My question is, does the hole that needs to be drilled for the transgo sk6 shift kit drilled to remedy a factory defect? If it is, are there other defects that should be remedied while rebuilding the C6? Also what city and state is your shop? Thanks for explaining every detail with expertise.
That hole is the 2-3 shift feed orifice...Most C6s come with a very lazy 2-3 shift so Transgo has you open up the hole to improve the shift quality and reduce the likelihood of a flare when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear...Sometimes, the band will release much faster than the high clutch will apply so you have a split second 'false neutral' condition which is known as a flare shift. Hope that helps - thank you for watching!
The reason I ask, is the builder who built mine did that to the transmission I have. So should I leave it out or put it back in! My car is a moderate build about 450 hp.
Interesting...I've never heard of that being done (which doesn't mean anything, I'm still learning about these transmissions) but I'd say it's not something worth doing as an overwhelming majority of those capsules are perfectly fine but leak due to grit/crud/contaminants getting in the way of the check ball sealing in the capsule. How does your transmission shift? Any problems with it?
@@nickstransmissions it seemed to shift ok, but not quite right. We found that he had pinched the piston seal for the 3-4. Big leak there. The band was wore out. I also found he could have done a much better job building the pump.
Damn, sounds like a hatchet job...The one problem with some shops is they tend to rush through builds to get stuff out the door due to customer/owner pressures...I never rush, nor do I tolerate people trying to rush me. My turn around time is 2-3 days for most builds, except when I need to special order one or more parts or have to locate a hard-to-find part.
Great video and great series. Concerning the separator plate, i know on the 4R70W, 4R75E, Sonnax makes a thicker plate because the factory plate is regularly impacted by one of the accumulator pistons. Is this an issue at all with the 4R100?
Thank you, the EZLife! There's not the same issue w/the E4OD and 4R100 transmissions like what is often observed with the 4R70-75Ws...The 4R100/E4OD don't have any acc pistons that make direct contact with the spacer plate, all the accumulation takes place in the accumulator body on those units.
Interesting...I don't know much about the GM or Ford 10-speeds as I haven't had one come through the shop yet but from I've been reading (mostly on forums) that the GM variants are fairly reliable compared to the 8 speeds...
GM and Ford 10 speeds are basically the same. It was designed in a joint venture between Ford and GM. Same as the 6 speeds. Both front wheel and rear wheel drive. The 10 speeds from GM make noise from the pump gears. They are helical cut. Fords are straight cut. Fords are not making the noise. The fix for that is put the ford gears, on the GM version. Good article on that in June 2024 Gears magazine. Nick, another excellent video. Can’t wait for the rest of the Valve body video.
Good information, thanks Larry! I haven't seen any 10-speeds just yet but hoping one comes my way at some point soon so I can do some vids on it. Same with the 8-speeds....Have never touched one (GM, Ford or ZF).
Im having a problem on my th350 rebuild. When i clean the case and or the parts, shafts, drums ect… When they dry they start getting this white powder corrosion on them. Idk how to get rid of it.
Pump upgrades consist of Transgo unbreakable pump rings, Sonnax or Transgo boost and/or pressure regulator valves along with machining the cover and body so that you have ideal pump rotor and slide clearance (.001-.0015) with the pump body deck surface. The smart shell reduces heat at the mid-case while reinforcing the general torque handling capacity of the gear train. Thank you for watching!
I just swapped a 700r4 in my Jeep behind a 6.0 LS. I believe the case and valve body is a 1992. Currently I have a very weak 2-3 shift during moderate- heavy acceleration. Any tips on how to firm that up?
Yep, I cover exactly what you should do in the video. Watch the section on shift calibration via the spacer plate and let me know if you have any follow up questions and we can go from there.
Going through my C6 now and did the air check assembled today. Low/reverse clutch sounds just like your air check. Forward and direct both go thud but I get a lot of air hissing out of somewhere if I hold the air supply to it. I did take the drums back out, put them on the pump stator and air check them out of the transmission, both drums apply immediately when air is supplied but I get air hissing past what sounds like the sealing rings and maybe some past the check balls in the apply pistons? I don't remember having this much air on the last C6 I did but both drums apply and hold fine. I made sure the sealing rings fit the drums and they have good fit/resistance. Any ideas? I did have a helper apply air to the low/reverse and I applied it to direct/reverse and turned the shaft and the output shaft does spin in reverse so it is working but the amount of air leaking past is a bit alarming. The drums air check fantastic by themselves so its not the seals in the drums. Perhaps fluid and pressure seals the rings better than just air?
Hi Matt, I don't think there's anything to be alarmed about given what you have mentioned above. Some drums will air check through the pump and case a little stronger/more robustly than others from unit to unit for a given transmission. But, as you mentioned, air can get into places that fluid cannot and thus you will always hear a little more air than you may expect due to air blow-by...That said, as long as the clutch packs are applying and you cannot move the frictions around with your hand when charging the clutch apply circuit via the pump, you should be fine. Thank you for watching!
@@nickstransmissions After I made the comment I watched a few other videos of people air checking C6 transmissions and most sound about the same as mine. The drums apply furiously immediately so I think the rest is just air going where fluid usually seals up the leak. I did put the TCI low drag kit in and had excessive end play when I did the test, I will test again when I get the pump selective thrust washer kit in.
Nick, I found a spring on my floor. Its about as long as a pinkie finger nail. Its really short. Really stiff. Its width is about as long as half a pinkie nail. I didn’t see it come out when working on the housing pump. What could it be for? Ty
Hi Nick the tcc valve lockup spring for heavy duty towing, is it like a hard shift when you dont have a load on the truck? I will be doing some towing with my diesel duelly truck but im not sure I want a hard lockup with daily driving. I'm trying to decide which spring to use. Thank you for all the videos you do.
Hi Steve, the primary difference between the two TCC springs is that, with the HD spring, you'll clearly feel the converter clutch come on whereas the factory spring provides a stock feel, which sometimes isn't noticeable from the driver's seat. I always install the HD spring and haven't heard any adverse feedback or complaints from customers thus far...
@@nickstransmissions thanks Nick you've been very helpful. I've rebuilt a few transmissions over the years and was an R&R guy in the 90's for a few different trans shops. 2 different aamco shops too and now I see alot have closed. Again I appreciate your videos thank you
I have never done that, not sure that you can...The output shafts are of different lengths and different years/models had different lengths of output shaft for both 2WD and 4WD. If you're looking to swap shafts, I would do it the right way by tearing the transmission down and swapping to the correct shaft for your intended application. You can refresh the unit while you have it apart and install the Sonnax zip kit or Transgo Reprogramming kit as well as the billet piston for the 1-2-3-4 and weld up the 3-5-R drum so it doesn't start leaking.
Good advice but there wasnt a burr on that particular shaft; it was actually bent. First one I have seen bent in ages, wasnt expecting it. Of course, it has to happen to a unit that I am filming, lol.
Hi MF, thank you for watching...Based solely on what you've mentioned, I'd check things like motor mounts, rear transmission mount, U-joints, driveline, rear end to start (assuming you haven't done this already)...Most of the time, these 'bumps' that happen in first immediately after taking off are attributed to those things vs something internal transmission or TC.
@@nickstransmissions everything else is good. Definitely in trans. It's on the bench now. Was my first 4l80e build. After a successful 4l60e "175k so far". On the sonnax performance pack the dual feed directions it doesnt mention leaving that lip seal out. Which I didn't do. I feel I should leave out this time.
There's two schools of thought on that drum seal when it comes to dual feeding: leave it out or keep it in... Leave it out: This allows fluid to fill the cavity entirely without any partitioning of the piston which means marginally faster apply/quicker shift Leave it in: In this scenario, the center seal acts as a timing 'abatement' agent, slowing apply ever so slightly to cushion the shift feel I always leave it out as I want the direct clutch to come on as fast as possible since there's no concern about timing the release of a shifting band like in the 4L60E/700R4 or 200-4R. Since WOT shifts are happening at 5000+ RPMs in a high performance situation, anything that may impeded the clutch pack's travel to full apply isn't desirable. All that said, there are very well respected builders who feel it should be left in so as to promote better apply quality and that you can compensate for the timing issue by incrementally increasing the size of the 2-3 feed orifice (the assumption here is the 2-3 and 3-4 accumulators have been deleted via a block off plate). Hope that helps...
Yes - drill a hole in the bottom, then once off and cleaned, weld a nut that corresponds to the same diameter and thread pitch for a factory drain plug for a 4L60E...Put it towards the back of the pan.
I might recommend you provide a bit more context around your project, what your goals are and other relevant information (i.e. what year of 700R4 you have, application, horsepower, intended usage pattern, etc...I feel like just answering questions piece-mail won't actually help you get the answers you need...Up to you but would make the exchange a bit more efficient and allow me to give you a holistic response vs just bits and pieces here and there...
Lol, Why on earth would I want to do that? Have you not see any of my other vidoes on here? You're recommending that I go to a defucnt channel to "learn how to rebuild"? Have you watched part 2?? If not, here it is: m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GMcuVdMhjKo.html I know how to rebuild these transmissions...The loss of third gear had absolutely nothing to do with me or this transmission.
@@nickstransmissions it wasn’t a recommendation to you, but for some viewers that may need some pointers on what to look out for. I’m not saying you don’t know how to rebuild them, but it never hurts to have different sources. If you’re into knocking other people/channels down then that’s your own problem my guy. * COMMENT UPDATE* I’ve watched your second video and will say I’ve learned something new. When you’ve mentioned what electrical OEM parts to use or not to use was enlightening. My initial statement still stands as I was not insinuating to the viewers that you’re not credible. Although I do know everyone has a different perspective on how they receive information, however I’m not responsible for them receiving it positively or negatively. Again, admittedly I like the second video and thank you for pointing out that electrical issue.
All good, man...I didn't take offense but just wanted to express how things look from my point of view...I don't knock other folks channels, especially other transmission builders as we are all apart of the same community and like you said, having a diverse set of reference sources isn't a bad thing. Glad you found the 2nd video informative and appreciate you watching and commenting! Yea, that case was a textbook example to illustrate why folks should never use aftermarket electronics they get from the auto parts chain stores as they usually sell junk that does more harm than good, haha. Thanks again, @BigShaykh!
What do you call the spacers specifically online? N my overdrive housing I can fit 7 clutches without the waved snap ring. Is that ok? My transmission is around 200 thou between the piston n spacer. Can't find them online.
It's technically called the overdrive piston-to-hub race but I usually see it listed as an overdrive selective spacer or washer. Are you needing a thicker race?
@nickstransmissions no I need thinner. I got the front section of the transmission clearance good. But struggling with the overdrive housing. I'm thinking about getting the case saver to take some of that up but then that will probably make me have to re do the front half of the case clearance.
What is the thickness of the spacer you have now? LMK and I'll see if I can find a source for you (Transtar, Transparts Warehouse, Oregon Performance Transmission parts, Cobra Transmission Parts may have what you need). What hard parts, if any, did you replace in the main case or overdrive section? I am assuming you measured your front end play with the overdrive section bolted to the case...
@nickstransmissions the 1 I have now is 194 thousands. I put the overdrive section on n lost all endplay. Had 35 thou before. I will figure it out but just want to buy the spacers because it's a new overdrive housing. Original was cracked. Which I think is why my clearance is so off
Ah, that makes sense (Housing swap)...most of the time, the pre-existing spacer is fine without even checking if no hard parts, case or ext housing are replaced but here, the replacement ext housing is accounting for the difference. Sounds like you need something no thicker than .183 and likely something thinner... Per the Transpartswarehouse.com catalog, the following thickness are available: Thickness | Part Number > .183" | 12213E > .168" | 12213D > .155". | 12213C > .138. | 12213B > .123. | 12213A > .108. | 12213 Also, you may want to pick up some additional selective spacers for the pump and forward drum (three-tab thrust washer). What is your rear gear train end play?
As a matter of fact, there is: Valve Body testing PT1-Initial Results: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MpWXgXbpYYU.html Valve Body testing PT2-Repair: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uNJj3RH94bc.html Valve body installation: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BEWXD8CrnwQ.html
Did you watch the videos? Particularly the valve body testing part 2: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uNJj3RH94bc.html I explain this in detail in that video...If you have a 2001-2003 valve body, you will want to order this Fitzall valve: www.amazon.com/4L60E-Transmission-Valve-2000-2003-Non-Can/dp/B01I21T4GE Alternatively, you can install a Transgo shift kit (SK-4L60E) and that will also come with a valve and spring to convert your TCC PWM apply to an on-off apply. One other thing I should have mentioned: If your vehicle has active cylinder management / active fuel management (ACM/AFM), you will want to keep your PWM active...I don't think any 2005 vehicles had those; I believe that did not start until 2007 w/the GMT900 series trucks/SUVs/Vans. If you have a passenger car like a GTO, check with the dealership - give the parts guy the last 8 digits of your VIN and he'll tell you if your engine is an AFM/ACM engine.
I fought that blind roll pin for at least an hour, watched a ton of videos, and you solved it. Everyone said use a drill, or make thin pry device from a wire. It was as easy as turning it over, relieving the pressure and it fell right out. Thank you. All of your videos on the 4l80e are great, couldn’t do this without you!
Hey I have been trying to wrap my head around all these C6 videos youve put out. Id like to rebuild my transmission which has a tiny bit of slippage coming on at 45- 55 mph Unfortunately all the info you give makes it feel incredibly more difficult than I feel it should be. I run a E-150 with a 300 I6. you talk a lot about upgrades and making the trans shift firmer and such and I just dont really need that. All I want to do is get the slippage out of the system so I can drive at highway speeds. The van will maybe see a total of a couple thousand miles the rest of this year. Can you assist / advise me on the minimum necessary parts I should get to get it rebuilt and running smooth again? I plan to pay for a professionally rebuilt trans in the near future but at the moment i just need to get it rebuilt ASAP for as little as possible.
Yea, I put out a lot of C6 vids so folks have plenty of information to review based on their needs and relative skill level...In your case, it feels more difficult because you're not organizing the information at all; not disregarding what doesn't pertain to your immediate needs. You're trying to take it all in when you don't have to (though I do appreciate the views). So it feels like you're 'drinking from a firehose' which is overwhelming, especially to someone new to rebuilding transmissions (I'm assuming you're new - correct me if I am wrong). The C6 is NOT a difficult transmission to work on for a DYI'er. I often say in my videos that if I were to train someone new to transmissions but otherwise mechanically inclined, organized and willing to learn, I'd teach him how to build a C6, then a TH350 and 727 Torqueflite. Have you watched my C6 rebuild video series at all? If not, here it is: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-50Qiw_YiWzk.html If you want just the skinny on building a reliable C6 without all the upgrades, shift re-calibration and other information then watch that series, and nothing else (at least on my C6 playlist)...There's two parts and each takes you through step by step. Read the descriptions as I keep important information in there as well. The nice thing about that series is there's no fancy mods, odd-ball parts or unusual procedures for anything. Just a stock rebuild that yields a reliable transmission. Parts-wise, you just need the following for what you're trying to do: - Clutch module (friction discs for your clutch packs) - E4OD rear roller clutch (highly recommended and very inexpensive) - Intermediate band - Intermediate servo piston (check the letter code on your servo cover to ensure you buy the right servo) - Paper and rubber/gasket/seal kit - Filter - Torque converter (I don't recommend reusing your existing one but that's your call) There are aftermarket thrust washer kits available if find that the selective pump washer installed currently isn't giving you the correct amount of drum travel (.008-.040 is the spec). Hope the above helps - let me know if you have any additional questions and I'll try to help out as best as I can.
@@nickstransmissions Thank you so much for getting back to me. Yeah I am definitely a newbie to transmissions. I was a Caterpillar technician for a while and I did drivetrain, electronics, body, hydraulics and engine mostly. Transmission was handled by a different department. I will get through that video series you linked, I had started on it but hadn't got far because I got confused with all the upgrade talk options, but with the little list you just gave me I will use that to keep on track while watching and writing down a plan. And yeah I plan to replace the torque converter aswell because I dont know if the issue is with the TC or the transmission I would just like to get both in better shape. Thank you so much Nick!
You're welcome, man...When you're done with your rebuild, you won't have to have it rebuilt again because you will have done a comprehensive enough job while learning an invaluable skill in the process. The only other thing you may want to consider replacing is the bushings...Those you can take to a trans shop with your parts and pay the shop a hundred bucks or so to have them r/r for you...Otherwise, you'll be spending a fair amount of money on transmission bushing driver set(s) that you may only use once in a blue moon... Once you watch the rebuild series, some of the other C6 videos will make more sense as you'll have a foundational base of knowledge so perhaps give them another watch if you're up for it. Ask questions if you run into any problems along the way. And please subscribe if you haven't as I am always doing C6s so will likely produce more videos in the near future.
@@nickstransmissions I definitely want to do a good job at it so I appreciate all the help. I will definitely be looking to get the bushings swapped by a shop. Will probably be cheaper dollar to dollar than buying the tool to do it myself. Nearly 330k miles on this ole girl but the engine purs and other than the slippage the trans runs great too. As far as parts do you have any kits or brand recommendations for a basic rebuild like I am shooting for?
Check eBay for 'Deluxe Ford C6 kits' - you can usually find everything you'll need to overhaul the transmission in one kit...Many of them come with upgraded Alto high energy frictions and you can get those kits for the same price or less vs if you paid for everything individually from local suppliers.
I don't see why not...Did I say something to the contrary in the video? I don't recall but then again, that was filmed quite a while ago...Also, the 1987 VB should have the bore for the mechanical TCC lock up valve train. 1988-1993 was second generation; no TCC mechanical provisioning.
Don't worry about that seal...It's there to soften engagement into Drive from either Park or Reverse. Some will remove it with a slide hammer and special attachment, others use a pry bar so it's up to you if you want to replace it.
Yep, if running a trans brake you def don't want that seal in there. If you have a two jaw puller and bushing driver of the appropriate size, you should be able to pull it off...
Nick found my old 3 leg USA made puller it came right out. Used a head flat washer and a round bushing. Thanks again it have searched and did not find anyone who removed it before
Great video. Thank you. I am working on my daughter's Toyota U241E valve body and have a sticking valve like this. I sure hope I can go home today and hone it enough to make it work. Praying!!
Hey Nick, quick question: I recently rebuilt an old TH350 transmission and the output shaft, while I am able to turn it by hand, doesn't turn very smoothly. I am unsure whether I need to disassemble it again and look for tight spots on the bushings or whatever. It would spin quite nicely up until I have the input shaft and drums installed, and the input shaft spins nice and free and has .020" endplay. Any advice?
Hi Josh - please do me a favor and post your question in my TH350 rebuild video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VGqhyuxhA_M.html I would like to keep this vid's comments focused on the Ford 6R80. As soon as I see it come through on the TH350 video, I'll respond there and remove this one. Thanks!
I've got a 460 with a c6 and first gear it lugs really bad with a trailer and without can't even spin the tires. Would you think that's band adjustment issue? Also it really doesn't like being in reverse with a trailer and slight incline. Makes a popping sound
@@nickstransmissions odometer has rolled so either 135k or 235k unknown. I've recently done a full tune up to the engine. I've only had the truck 6 months but it's been weak in first gear ever since I've had it.
Gotcha...I wonder if your torque converter's stator one-way clutch has failed in the unit...If the one-way clutch in a torque converter fails, the first part of the drive cycle will feel as though the engine is missing half of its cylinders but once you get up to road speed and fluid coupling occurs, torque multiplication ends and the stator free-wheels normally (the engine speed where fluid coupling occurs is the converter's stall speed).
@@nickstransmissions You know, my truck I've had for 12 years, 86 F250, 351W C6 auto has always felt like it was dragging an anchor taking off, like the brakes are dragging slightly even though they are not and it felt that way accelerating anything below I'd say 40 MPH, I wonder if that was the issue. Once the trans gets warm the feeling isn't as noticeable and it wasn't anything to do with the engine and the rest of the transmission overall looked incredible for the age, mileage and abuse it went through. Trans always worked fine but it had just shy of 254,000 when I tore it down - putting a new engine in it and decided to do the trans since it was still the original. I do have a new torque converter but I wonder if that was the issue. The truck always got 9-10 MPG no matter what I did to it, think it should have done a little better than that driving around empty. We'll find out here the next couple weeks. I think with the TCI low drag kit and the 2000-2500 stall converter I have it should take off like a rocket now lol. Having an engine without a bent connecting rod on cylinder 5 should help some too.
What are you referring to when you say, "That's stupid"? This customer has a full LS powertrain swap, including a factory PCM and harness. The speedometer was working fine until the aftermarket speed sensor was installed, only then did it begin to act up...
Thanks, Matthew...I have no doubt you can take on the work as long as you're able to free up the time...I use 50-75 PSI when air checking individual drums, etc and 75-100 PSI when doing case air checks.
I would like your opinion. The captured bearing under the servo on my transmission is missing. In your opinion is this good or bad. Why would someone want to leave it out? Also what is the name or part number of the tool I will need to install one? So far so good on the build! Thanks for the videos!
All lip seals face the direction of apply fluid. So if the apply fluid is coming up from the bottom of the drum, from where it enters via a shaft or feed passage in the case, the lip seals would face down into the drum - facing the on-coming fluid. The lip sealing surfaces are pressed against the inner diameter of the drum to seal off the circuit. Hope that helps with determining which way to orient the lip seal in any given transmission. Thank you for watching!
