We free our jewelry from secret compartments in abandoned ruins on forbidden planets far from our solar system. Protected by dangerous mechanisms or unsolvable puzzles that long extinct races have devised to prevent their treasures from falling into the wrong hands.
We dig up old maps, search for artifacts, translate inscriptions on rare relics and put all these clues together to track down those secret places that contain magical treasures. Heirlooms from great emperors, jewelery from queens from entire planetary empires, decorations from great women warriors who have conquered entire solar systems.
Well. Sort of. At least we imagine such wild stories when we create the designs for our jewelry. We want our pieces to radiate a mysterious story and look as if they were thousands of years old and out of this world.
Hi! Schon mal hier kommentiert und Du konntest mir wirklich helfen! Mittlerweile ein paar Versuche gestartet und ich versuche mich bei folgenden fails kurz und prägnant zu halten... 1: wenn ich den Gegenstand aus dem Bad hole und sofort mit destilliertem Wasser spüle...sieht er optisch ganz ok aus. Testweise mit einem kleinen Fetzen und etwas Politur drüber und das Tuch wird schon mit gar nicht viel Druck beim polieren mit der Hand...regelrecht schwarz! Dieses Schwarz ist aber anfangs gar nicht zu sehen auf dem Objekt. Interessant war, dass die Opferanoden nach dem Galvanisieren als ich sie aus dem Bad zog eine schmierige, schwarze Schicht aufwiesen. Konnte man mit dem Finger wischen. Was ist das und warum entsteht dieser schwarze Film auf den Anoden? Kann es sein dass dieser schwarze Film der Anoden sich auf der Beschichtung am Objekt ebenso ablagert und dieser dann im Tuch zu sehen ist beim polieren? Falls ja...ist das für eine ordentliche Haftung der (Kupfer)Schichten auf dem Objekt ja absolut tödlich. 2: immer wieder und ich merke es mir nie... Die Einstellung am Netzteil. Beides (V und A) auf Null. Netzteil an. Es gibt scheinbar zwei Varianten dann...(?). Ampere aufs Maximum und dann erst solange die Volt einstellen, bis man den gewünschten Ampere Wert hat (=zb. 1A/Qdm)? Oder anders...erst Volt aufs Maximum und dann Ampere solange einstellen bis die fürs Elektrolyt empfolhenen Volt angezeigt werden?? Es ist zum Mäuse melken. Ich habe hier zwei Netzteile. Eines welches maximal nur 3 Ampere liefert - dafür ist aber Volt und Ampere am Gerät regelbar... Und eines welches 3-15 Volt und 25 Ampere liefert. Bei dem kann ich aber nur die Volt einstellen :-/. Da dieses Gerät sofort mal bei 3 Volt schon beim Einschalten "anfängt" und es bei Kupfet aber heisst "üblicherweise 1 - 1.5 Volt"...sind die 3 Volt vermutlich viel zuviel??? Fragen über Fragen :(
Just one point is unclear to me. Why is not possible to electroform a full thick silver piece? Eventually could I make a thin layer of copper as support and erode it chemically as 2nd step? I'm interested in electrotype some silver jewlery.
Scheint so als wäre ich nicht der einzige mit dem Servomotor Problem. Habe jetzt etwas recherchiert und hab gesehen dass es recht wahrscheinlich ist das für den Motor mehr Leistung benötigt wird als der adafruit trinket hergibt. Habe nämlich zwei Motoren getestet und keiner läuft. Habe alles auf den trinket m0 kopiert wie beschrieben. Vielleicht hat ja wer eine Lösung gefunden mittlerweile. Ich werde mich sonst mal nach Alternativen umsehen.
Hello, I cant get my servo trinket to work. Its continuous. All lights are on, shows up on computer, put the files in and nothing happens. Any suggestions?
Hello! I was wondering if there was something I was missing for the rotajig. Ive uploaded the software and connected the servo, but all the trinket does is flash a red light twice. Is there something I might be missing?
Moin! Weiß zwar nicht ob hier noch die Kommentare liest, aber ich frage mal trotzdem. Muss man bei dem Adafruit M0 noch irgendeine Software draufpacken, oder wirklich nur die Dateien aus dem Order? Egal wie oft ich die Daten da drauf lade, der Motor dreht sich nicht.
You want to get the finest bags available to you ... the smaller the grid/micronage the smaller will be the amount of sludge still seepin thru the bag. I usually use 1 micron ... i didnt find any finer bags around my hood
Oh I also meant to add thanks for sharing all of this information. Adding the fish tank filter is such a good idea!! I want to try to recreate your set up and find the best US products to share with everyone as well.
That would be awesome. I get a lot of questions outta US regarding Setup and Chemaicals, but unfortunately ive absolutely no knowledge about similar products and their availability in the US. The pond between us is just too big 🙈 not for inspiration and love, but for the hardware.
Hi from the west coast of the US! Bummer tifoo doesn’t ship here, their website makes Electroforming seem like a breeze. There are a few carriers like Rio grande and some on Amazon. I’ve only used rio grande and followed some of Jason Welchs work to make my own. I don’t care for making it myself like you said I just want to make jewelry. I don’t yet own a 3D printer and I’m not that computer savvy. I really appreciate you sharing the document to make your rotajig. I’m wondering if you would be interested in selling me one? I don’t think I would be the only one interested. I’ve used a magnetic stirrer under my solution bin but I don’t like how un-sturdy it feels and I doesn’t have the same effect of coating evenly.
Hallo richi ... oft scheiterts schon beim USB Kabel. Das sollte unbedingt ein "Datenkabel" und nicht einfach ein HandyLadekabel sein ... und dann hat der trinket zwei Modi: Bootmode und nen normalen Betriebsmode. Auf der Adafruit Website wird der Unterschied und die Anwendung super einfach erklärt.
@@xeno_arch9887 danke für deine schnelle Antwort. 😃 Der trinket hatte bisle Start Schwierigkeiten. Nach dem ich das phyton update drauf gemacht hatte ging alles. Hab nur den falschen servo aktuell 🤣🤣
@@xeno_arch9887 Thank You Bro' i ended buying the material at walmart 1/2 yard for $1.50 was surprised of that price i should've bought the whole yard one of my daughters hot gluing some for me
Hallo Sascha, vielen Dank für die Mühe dieses Video zu erstellen! Zum Glück habe ich es heute gesehen! Das sind genau die Infos die ich brauchte! Vielen Dank! Leider funktioniert der Link zu den Anoden Bags nicht mehr 🙄 . Würdest du mir nochmal mitteilen welches Produkt du da verwendest? In den Aquariumfilter machst du dann das Gleiche rein? Vielen Dank und weiter so! LG Ralph
Der Link ist schon recht alt 🙈 hier ein aktuelles Produkt: www.amazon.com/dp/B082SK6S7Z/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=1+micron+filter+bag&qid=1707079340&sr=8-3 ... und yepp ... in der fischpumpe verwende ich neben den mitgelieferten Filtern auch ein Stück des Anodebag- Materials ...
Hi ja Danke! Mittlerweile bin ich auch fündig geworden. Nachdem ich die Anodenbeutel im Einsatz hatte, hat sich der Widerstand im Elektrolyt verändert. Bei Kupfer und beim Nickel. Ist dir das auch aufgefallen?
Love the informative video and your humor is the icing on the cake. Do you recommend cleaning your copper anodes? If so, how do you suggest cleaning them? Thank you 😊🙏
Thx fr the Comment and good question! and i must admit that i never ever clean my anodes. I usually just let them in their anode bags until they have completely dissolved through the galvanization process. Just make sure you use pure copper, anode bags and a fishtank-filterpump and you should never have any Problems with residues or dirt in your solution thet would require extensive cleaning. Hope That helps.
@@xeno_arch9887 Great! Thank you so much for replying. I do everything but the filter which I will pick up this week. Thank you again for all of the work that you put in. Your videos are a huge help for artists like myself who are just learning this modality.
Hello! Your video is perfect for me ! I have a question. I already gold plating and Im using palladium for the first "layer". Do you think its possible to do the same process before using silver electroforming. Thanks a lot a for your answer :)
Hello Pauline. Thx for your Comment. May I answer with a Counter-Question: Why would you want to plate silver over Palladium? Palladium blows Silver out of the Water in almost every Aspect: its more noble than Silver. Palladium one of the earth’s most durable elements and is a precious hard metal that resists corrosion. While for the trained eye palladium is a tad bit darker than silver it is pretty hard to tell the difference between jewelry plated with palladium or plated with silver. And: palladium is more expensive. So why cover your gorgeous palladium with silver? Id just go with your "first layer" of palladium. 🌟🌟🌟
Yes sure, thanks for your answer. I saw its possible to do silver electroforming directly with silver paint but impossible to find this kind of product and Im afraid about the duration over time. Your solution looks great. It is really silver electroforming or silver plating? However, I wonder about the duration of electroforming with tifoo products which seems very short.
@pOuiin3 I love tifoo-products exactly because of that: they e-form very quickly and the results are predictable^and repeatable. But thats only my humble experience. you could test it: Their solutions are available in small batches as well so you can test it and see for yourself before you invest in massive loads of solution. Im sure itll be fun! And the folks over at Tifoo are cool as well. Ive already asked them a thousand questions and they always answered.
Hi! Deine Tips sind wahnsinnig hilfreich, das Video ist informativ und spassig gehalten! Ich bin gerade erst am Anfang und habe verstanden, dass die Oberflächenbehandlung bzw. Vorbereitung wohl das Wichtigste ist. Und da liegt bei mir auch schon der Hund begraben: Ich nutze Kupferleitlack der Firma Tifoo (qualitativ sehr sehr hochwertig) und mein Problem ist, dass ich ihn verdünnt mit der Airbrush auftrage und dabei IMMER eine "rauhe" Oberfläche entsteht, am Ende sogar feinster Kupferstaub an manchen Stellen zu sehen ist. Ich habe mit Aceton verdünnt. Einmal 1:2 dann 1:4...selbes Ergebnis. Einmal mit 1 bar gespritzt, einmal mit 2 bar. Selbes Ergebnis. Was den Umgang mit der Airbrush angeht bin ich alles andere als ungeübt. Die Oberfläche wird immer leicht "rauh", so als ob sich die Kupferpartikel "aufstellen" würden wenn sie auf das Objekt gespritzt werden (blöd beschrieben ich weiss)...und mit so einer Oberfläche brauche ich das Teil natürlich gar nicht erst in ein Bad tauchen. Wenn ich nach dem spritzen des Kupferlacks einige Stunden warte damit er soweit trocken ist dass ich diesen "Gries" runterwischen kann...wische ich mir auch zwangsläufig den Lack runter / dünner... Ich möchte mittlerweile schon auf verdünnen und mit dem Pinsel aufstreichen umsteigen aber denke mir dass die Pinselstriche wohl dann im Lack bleiben?... Ich bin wirklich ratlos.
HejHej, danke für das Lob und welcome to the new Hobby! Ich glaube der Hund liegt bei Dir im Verdünner begraben. Tifoo gibt "Butylacetat" als verdünner an. Damit bekommst Du eine viel homogenere Flüssigkeit hin. Ich weiss, das Zeug bekommt man nicht einfach im Supermarkt, aber ich glaube ein Versuch wäre es wert. 🌞
Hey :) danke für Deine Antwort und - Du hast Recht! Habe vor einigen Tagen einen Umstieg von Aceton auf Butylacetat gemacht und was soll ich sagen...Tag und Nacht! Ich denke das Aceton ist einfach zu schnell verdampft, auch schon während dem spritzen! Jetzt funktioniert das lackieren damit wunderbar. Gleichmässige und glänzende Schichten.
Hi xeno_arch, your video production quality is amazing. I only came across your channel recently and hope you are still looking to do videos because they are top quality. Keep up the great work!
HejHej Dave ... Thanx for the Propz. Ive been busy with some other Nerd-Stuff 🙈 Life as a polymath isnt exactly boring 🤣 but here in Switzerland were expecting Snow so its the perfect season for sum cozy electroforming Session and maybe some random Video Tutorials 🤣
Hejhej ... if the Silver-Layer is thick enough ... i.e. 20 microns ... it wont come off ... but any metal used in jewelry is subject to mechanical wear and will eventually suffer from dents and dings.
hi. thanks. i downloaded ROTAJIG DIY MANUAL.pdf file and the link of 3d printer parts and ciruit python code for the trinket doesnt download for me. could you please send me the links. thanks alot for your help.
Do you run for fish tank filter pump during plating or after? Also I have access to different pumps in Canada. What’s the key component? Just a filter sponge? Some come with all sorts of fancy filtration components designed specifically for cleaning fish tank water.
Hejhej peebs, usually run the pump while eforming. The goal here is to filter out medium to big debris, while the anode bags should take care of anything smaller. So i have stuffed some coarse and some medium size filter sponge material into my pump. Its a bit trial and error, but it doesnt take a lot of effort to work well. But i never use the active carbon balls or other chemically active material, cause it could taint the solution. Hope that makes sense 🙈😉
@@xeno_arch9887 that makes perfect sense, thank you! So I’ve printed the roto jig and purchased the trinket M0 and FeeTech continuous servo from adafruit. Did you heat the roto jig piece and just force it onto the servo gear? Also do you have an STL for a case for the trinket M0?
Interesting, thank you! So I can not use 925 sterlign silver? It has to be fine? Also, the silver piece will have a copper layer underneath it?is it no way of acheiving a piece in solid 925 sterling silver? :) Thank you!
Yes to all of your questions. Its not possible to electroform 925 silver. The only way you achieve solid 925 stuff is with using silver metalclay or by casting it. Metalclay being less dangerous but more expensive.
This depends pretty much on the make and model of the servo you are using. If it works with 50 for your servo, youre all set 👍 i tested thru several settings and 5 was a good fit for my servos. So my reason was pretty much trial and error 🙈🤣
Hejhej brizzy ... since the layer of silver is usually not too thick ... about 10-20 microns you should be okay with a short piece of silverwire for - lets say - a ring. It really doesnt take much. If you use a silver teaspoon i bet youll easily eform thru 40-50 rings.
No, im Sorry, Tifoo doesnt ship to the US because of customs restrictions on chemical liquids. And so far I havent heard of a premade solution in the US that works as flawlessly as the one from tifoo. But the again im just some swiss dude who doesnt even remotely know the american supplies of electroforming chemicals. So take my words with a grain of coppersulfate ;-)
Hello, firstly many thanks for your video and tips I wanted to download the 3D files for the rota jig but unfortunately the links in google docs don’t work, can you share the 3D files or get me the updated links please ?
Hejhej Christophe ... thanx for the props, glad you like my stuff 🌟 I just checked the link and everything is working fine. Heres the link again: Https://cutt.ly/3lXabB3 ... hope it works this time ☀️
I can't get my servo to start turning. My servo had a Black, red, and white wire. I put white where you have yellow. I can see the files on my computer and I copy over the files and nothing is happening.
Ahhh thank you so much for this video! I am currently wanting to up my game from copper to silver and been so lost. I see people say that you have to do a barrier layer of a different metal onto the copper before doing the silver. Here in your video you go straight from copper to silver, do you have any problems with not having a barrier inbetween? I'd prefer to go from copper straight to silver without having to do a barrier. I am in Australia so am not able to get the same chemicals you have so am hoping I can get same results with what I can get in my country.
Hello Earth Soul. I havent encountered any Problems going from copper straight to silver without a a barrier. This is probably due to the electrolytes I use. I understand that my provider tifoo.de doesnt ship worldwide because of safety-restrictions when shipping chemicals. This is a real bummer because their stuff just works out of the box every time. Unfortunately I still havent found any provider in the US nor in Australia that offers similar electrolytes. Im afraid i can't help you and hope youll be still able to find a provider in your area.
@@xeno_arch9887 Thank you so much for the response. I have found some electrolytes, hoping I can get them to work for me here! So eager to make some of my copper pieces into silver. :) Love your videos btw, they are cool and I like listening to you talk about things, you have a lovely energy. All the best!
Hi there! I love this video and the resources you've linked in the description! I've come back to it multiple times. I am actually making my own video on solving electroplating problems and I would like to give a shout out to your clever rotary jig. Would it be all right if I used 3-5 seconds of footage from this video to feature the jig (along with links to this video, of course)?
May you tell us if you May go with nickel before you go with the silver And May you do the same procedure with gold? Do you heat the silver while you do the electroplating and at what temperature Thank you so much
HejHej Ana ... yepp ... it is possible to go nickel before silver. But i dont know the exact workflow because nickel electrolytes are very toxic and known to cause cancer. i stay away from very toxic stuff in my workshop. but you can go palladium before silver or gold. palladium is much safer to work with. Your workflow would be: conductive paint - copper - thin layer of palladium - gold or silver (tho the thin layer of palladium already looks very silverish and is actually more noble than silver) None of my electrolytes require heating. i use products from tifoo.de (no affiliation whatsoever - i just really like their stuff - it just works, always) and these electrolytes work perfectly with room temperature. hope 2 have helped. happy eforming!
Hi! I have a couple questions. Can I cover the solution with a lid after use so the fumes aren't still in the air? Also, is gold electroforming the same thing? But with a gold solution and anode?
HejHej Ariel ... Thanx for Commenting 🤙 Actually, I made a Video about the "Standby Mode" aka "what to do after use" : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--lg3_0-dL2g.html ... Unfortunately I have never electroformed with Gold, so I cant confirm its the same process as with silver.
hello amanda. pretty standard procedure: cover the piece with conductive paint where you want the silver to be. then electroform with copper and then electroform with silver.
Thanks for sharing those key differences in the processes, and been clear about the toxicity of most commercial silver plating soultions. Is there any chance you could share more info about the cool spinny gadget you use to rotate the pieces in the baths, it looks incredibly useful and practical!
Thanx David ... the spinny thing im using is the ROTAJIG. A bold name for a little gimmick i constructed to have my pieces moving in the Solution. You can build your own too. I made a DIY Manual - Link is in the Description or just klick here: drive.google.com/file/d/15NfkE-hSU_soRJr-C3I7oPBkl4shtxow/view?usp=sharing
@@xeno_arch9887 Wow!! That's amazing ^_^ Thank you so very much! I'll check this out and hopefully get one made up soon. That's by far the coolest gadget I've seen for electroforming yet :D
Thanks for your informations. I was told that you cannot plated silver directly over copper, but first plated with palladium or other metal. Same thing for gold. What do you think? Thank you
Do you have a video explaining how to set up the silver tank? (Currently a copper electroformer here, and want to step it up to silver!) I can't seem to find any videos perfectly explaining the differences between the two, or the similarities!
HejHej! Nope! The Solution I buy works perfectly with room temperature. Be it winter or summer. Thats why i advocate for buying premade Solutions. They solve pretty much all the quirks youd have with the self-mixed stuff.
