This was the perfect video for someone who already has a basic understanding of paint and body work. He kept it quick and simple and left out all the unnecessary fillers.
Thank you for the great video. I really appreciate it. I've got a 22 year old bass boat that has spider cracks. At least now I know how to fix them. A lot of guys just let them go. Looks like a good project for this old retired guy to take on. Thanks again.
A thing to consider is that spider cracks just don't appear for no reason. There are three reasons for spider cracks; 1. Impact - in which case all the gelcoat needs to be ground off to expose the damaged laminate. 2. The gelcoat has been wrongly applied too thick. Gelcoat doesn't like to flex so the thicker it is, the less flex it has. Also, as it ages it become harder and stiffer and the cracks will appear. 3. The laminate is too thin and flexing too much for the gelcoat. The laminate spec is, therefore, not enough. It also could be a combination of 2 & 3. Cheers
gelcoat starts to crack just like this after 20ish years. ive seen it on 2 machines my familys owned since new. you wont convince me it was anything other than the sun and elements on these and so imo your 3 ways are not the only 3 ways possible. if the machine is a year old with cracks. sure.
@@tylerhoward2703 What happens is that over the years, styrene is leached out of the resin/gelcoat and it becomes more and more brittle. And, which exacerbates those three deficiencies I listed. Cheers
Just found the site as a suggestion the other day on the You tube home page. I always liked the Fury back in the 80's, so I said to myself "we shall 'ave a look". Through work being done, old quality assurance line from the old days. Get it right first time, dont need a second time! Your on track, even thought its two years ago. Charlotta is like the energizer bunny, She's good with the pallet knife. I bet she ices a lovely Christmas Cake.
Oh boy, I wouldn't want to be the one fixing that...I think you'd probably sand back and feather a wider area around the crack down through the flake, re-apply the glitter flake/resin layer(s) and then clear resin on top, but I've not had to do that before myself.
Yes, it was quite a serious undertaking due to the way the galley is constructed. The galley cupboard carcasses are tabbed in to the inside of the hull below the gunwale. It could be that there's a way to just take the worktop off, but we needed to remove everything to get complete access to the sole.
Glad to see you back the last time I watched you were doing the aft bulkhead I just watched it all again as a refresher I have also been watching a channel called get shippy with it they cannot be far from you as they go to the pirates cave as well good luck Kevin from Thailand originally Essex
I just started watching, can't wait to get through the rest of the videos and learned what happened. The through hull osmosis was a painful experience to watch
We've had a few family disasters, I'll be posting a video update soon to let everyone know what's going on with the boat! Thanks for taking an interest!
Im such a child, I chuckled at the knob and my age comments 😂 I only found your channel earlier and its nice after 24 episodes to finally learn your name young Miss Charlotta 👍 You have both done some amazing work to bring this old wreck back and return her dignity - well done!
We're just about to start up again over the summer - we've had a few other things to deal with, unfortunately! Mike will be at the yard on Friday and Saturday so hopefully there'll be a new episode very soon!
We had some other problems away from the boat to deal with I'm afraid, but we're now set fair to start up again. Mike's hoping to get an episode out for the last week in May!
If you have that much cracking in one area why not just just sand down the entire area and re-gelcost it instead of grinding down just over the cracks and refilling? Wouldnt the process be quicker and save you from future gel coat cracking In the sesame area?
That's a very good point, but I wanted to use this area for the video. We have other areas which have fewer cracks, but this area was right out in the open and the cracks were clearly visible, so really it was a production choice more than a "job in hand" choice, if you see what I mean :)
People say it’s not waterproof but you spray gel coat over top of it and dynaglass is much stronger but a little more expensive but you get the money back by how much less time you have to sand on it vs gel coat with silica on it
That's just a temporary installation until we get a little further, and also I drilled the thru-hull just on the waterline (because I'm a goon!) but the "proper" installation will indeed have a return valve - thanks for reminding me, I've added it to our shopping list! Good to have you with us!
Just found your series of repairing your 69 boat. Are you still making videos of your progress? Very nice work to date. Big project, but you're doing it right.!
We're taking a short winter break as Charlotta has had a little light maintenance on her right arm, so I'm playing the nurse during her recovery. We're planning to be back abord making more episodes very early in January...fingers crossed!
I'm not known as a patient man, and roll-and-tip is possibly the job which makes my teeth itch the most! We've got a lot more work to do, but we're really grateful for the encouragement!
We've moved away from the dark blue now, and we're going to use gelcoat as close to the original as possible. Later in the series you'll see me redoing the hard-top with Arctic Blue gelcoat and I was really happy with how it turned out. Personally, I'd rather have the thicker gelcoat than the thinner topside paint, at least until I'm happy everything is as well faired as possible!
Hi, I just came across your channel today and have started watching your videos. I see you've put stringers down but you should also have holes between the different sections so that any water laying there can move freely to the pump to get taken out of the boat.
We'll be filling below the sole with closed-cell foam before we get back on the water. We currently have a bilge pump in the saloon just forward of the aft bulkhead as we have water ingress from the cockpit. You're right of course - ideally we would have sorted that out before the panel went down, but as with everything we're learning the hard way ! ;)
It’s wonderful to see you doing this. As a kid my dad had a failing fury moored at Cuxton so this brings back very fond memories for me. Keep up the good work, it will be a long but worth it adventure
Thanks Graham, that means a lot to us - we both love the original design, Mike says they're the ultimate good-time cruiser, good for coastal waters as well as rivers. We're hoping the project will puck up a bit of pace over the next few weeks so you can look forward to more videos very soon!
Nice to see you guys back on board. Keep up the good work, great seeing fibre glass panels being repaired. Could wifey have a word with my wife as my wife doesn't like to get her hands dirty.
She's one of a kind, believe me! Her family brought her up as a practical, skilled and patient woman,and when we get round to some proper woodwork, final finish painting and soft furnishings she'll be the star of the show!
Any good fibreglass and resin supplier will most likely also sell gelcoat, or you can find it online. Beware though, it's not very healthy stuff to work with - really I should be wearing a LOT more safety gear!
That's a very fair point...it's kind of force of habit on Mike's part. Her name is Charlotta, and we'll pin a note to the tripod to use her name more :)
Hey, good to see you back. I guess it has been a weird corona year keeping you away from Fery but I hope you are both fine. Unfortunately, that whale pump is crap. Please read online to see. I had it for some time and luckily never needed it urgently. When I tried to use it while at the marina, it was turning and everything but not pumping. No leaks, all well connected etc. but no pumping. I went crazy troubleshooting it but after I checked online I found hundreds of upset ex-owners cursing about it :) I would advise you to get a back up before you start boating. Good luck further with your project 👋👋👋
It's very much an emergency installation- I have a better model in mind for permanent installation. Really all that water came from the leaky aft bulkhead so once that is replaced (hipefully over the next week or two) it will be less of an issue. Also, I will need that access to the inner hull to eventually fit a transducer for a depth sounder. And thanks for the information and encouragement, we appreciate it!
Just use a grinder with a sanding disk take all the cracks. Sand it to fibreglass and use gel coat filler sand it again and buff it at the end much easier
Gelcoat dust is not that bad the fibreglass dust is worst but if you can grind it down with a Dremel to the fibre glass then you don't get the cracks happening anymore it's a good tip but everybody does it differently.
that would be the total wrong way to repair, he did what I would do, aside from a few little steps. One, I would have used microballons or qcell rather than silica, as it is a PAIN in the ass to sand by itslef for blending, I would have actually used resin thickened with milled fibers, 1/4'' glass fibers, and some cabosil (silica), then I would have faired it out to a complete finish with gelcoat thickened. The gelcoat tends to shrink, and crack as it is brittle by nature. Just my 2 cents.
@@donspider1 luckily, there is more than 1 way to skin a deer. I do things a bit different I suppose, however, I do tend to charge the highest out of all of my competition, and with that I do things over the top, overbuilt, over repaired and overdelivered. That is ok to do it whatever way makes your customer the happiest for the longest time. Cheers.