The ceiling panels are able to stay up with only bolts through the rivnuts? Would a lock washer make sense? Vibrations after some time did the ceiling panels loosen?
After several years all is well, I have not needed to tighten any panels. Lock washers sound like a good idea. I wrapped the wall panels in Duramax tweed material and used a regular washer, so the material would not twist or deform as seen in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l1l99-8uIts.html also all the videos divided by category can be seen at thefrugalfactor.com/
@@FrugalFactor I noticed you mentioning that later in your video. I have a Sprinter. No hex holes. It is nice that they do that. Wish Sprinters had that.
At what distance? Current carrying capacity is determined by wire composition (copper, copper clad aluminum), voltage drop, and distance. 12 volts, 103 amps with a length of 8 feet or less, then 6AWG of copper wire is OK. Best to use a calculator like this: circuitwizard.bluesea.com/
Once plywood starts to mold can it be salvaged with a sealant? I tried putting a steel wool, vinegar, water and PVA glue on some red birch ply I have on my van walls to darken it and give it a weathered look but within a few hours it started growing mold! Maybe I should have put a fan on it as it was kinda a rainy day but I've used this same finish on some other stuff and had no problems but this red birch stuff molds real easy. I had some other plywood in a damp area under the car port that got moldy too and I tried bleach, vinegar and sanding and nothing seemed to totally get rid of it. Can you paint or apply oil or polyurethane over it? Or is it toast?
It would be necessary to remove the mold spores. If that can't be done replace the effected wood. You could clean the wood and apply mold killing primer, I use this amzn.to/4fzPIBO You could also seal with polyurethane. In my builds new wood without mold is sealed with polyurethane on all sides, and the inside facing side of the wood then receives a coat of mold killing primer. I have done the best I can to avoid mold, and so far do not have any mold build up. You will need to which is best - clean and seal, or replace.
@@FrugalFactor So if you can still see it after sanding then throw it out or can it be slavaged? This wood is new so disappointing. any mold killer clear coats?
@@eedom69 If you can see it, I would discard it, you may try sealing it with polyurethane. There is no mold killer clear coat that I know of. I am not an expert on removing mold. I have done my best to ensure that mold does not form.
Great work friend. I did this same job a few years back and could never find someone doing the level tests on a promaster itself. Im gonna double check regularly now as well for peace of mind. Thank you for creating!
No, I would not do that. I want to be able to remove or reverse the build at anytime. I stayed away from adhesives, Used T-Nuts, plus-nuts, and Riv-nuts to hold the floor in place. The black plastic flooring is one sheet laid on top of the polyurethane sealed half inch plywood floor. Works well, not problems so far 2+ Years of service.
@@FrugalFactor Appreciate the quick response as well as the follow up video on the LED strip wiring integration. I have been chipping away for 2 years on my Cargo Conversion. I am not in a hurry and and consider the time working on and researching options my entertainment. My black plastic flooring will only be in the garage under my bed with nothing else other than maybe bike fork hitch to help keep it in place so I am pretty much committed to glue it down. Keep up the great work. Also enjoyed your storage tube videos.
No. I used 2x3's for the wheel well boxes. I did not use 2x4's for any of the construction. 2x3's are drier and twist less. I also, purchased the 2x3's over a month earlier and allowed them to dry before using. Returned any that twisted too much!
This vans are pieces of crap . wait til you have problems with the Oil cooler that is under the plastic manifold . That's not going to be fun trust me .
Great video. makes an oil change super easy and nearly mess free. All done from the top, no crawling underneath or spilling oil which is inevitable when pulling the drain plug. couple of updates for a 2022 promaster... 1. Recommended oil has changed to 0-20 2. insertion depth for the suction hose is longer... not really an issue, you can just insert and fiddle with it until the pump runs dry. 3. Stubby ratchet helps but I was able to put a standard 3/8 inch driver on the 24mm socket and get a click or two per turn. the extra length helped in breaking it loose. a flexhead (craftsman 3/8 in flexhead long handle... my favorite tool) was also helpful. Again, thanks for a great how-to video
@@EnclaveDesigns everything's toxic to a degree. More than 3 years. We're doing fine with our van. You could use wool but if it gets wet it'll smell like a farm.
Omg!😱 This is so confusing to me… I’ll never get my electrical system working. I bought a van that has a 3000w inverter and I have two deep cell batteries and a small fuse box! I have NO idea how it works or what to do with it. And I have NO help from anyone to explain it to me. I’m trying to understand it but it’s impossible. The van also has a big orange cord that is for the AC outlet (‘s) and I had to move it to the other side of my van to get to the AC outlet, it was barely long enough to reach so I ripped out the crappy counter/kitchen counter and replacing it with a much lighter one ( it was a lot of huge scrap wood) 🪵. I ripped out all the other wires ( led) lights and replaced with battery powered “Puck” lights instead. 😅 I have no idea how I’m going to figure this stuff out. 😢😢😢
Screen repair tape is so under rated. Our apartment owner used to charge everyone for new screens or rescreening. I was like you will be doing this with every pet owner. Just make a deal that they know its a repaired screen if they have pets or kids. Just swapping them out. Recycle n resuse instead of buying new. This worked great for the lower on third of the screens. ❤
Always have a couple of threads protruding out of the end of the nutsert/rivet nut, because when you squeeze to pull up the nutsert/riv nut you have less chance of stripping the thread. I'm a sheet metalworker been using nutserts for 35 years and have learnt by my mistakes as nothing worse than either drilling out a nutsert or stripping the mandrel and getting it stuck in the nutsert.
Any advice/tips you can share about how you found the area to drill for the shower drain because there's a lot going on underneath the Promaster over there by the driver's seat side. A really great video, thank you so much! 🙏🏼
@@gonewiththekale Wow! That is such a good question. You're correct, there's a lot going on in that area. What I did was I drilled a 1/8th hole from the bottom up. Then I went inside the van and looked to see where that was. With my layout there was very few choices on where I was able to put the drain. But it all worked out very well. All the videos are at www.thefrugalfactor.com. There are several about the shower installation and the drain installation, including the shower pan which is stainless steel.
@@FrugalFactor Thank you for your reply! Yes, I’ve been checking out your website and subbed to your channel to devour your videos. RU-vid recommended you to me and I’m so grateful- love your videos!🙏🏼👍🏻
Paul - I just completed installing the same Renogy B2B Charger as you did. I'm undecided as to whether or not to install the wire to limit the charging. Why would I not want to charge at the full 40 amps? Is it harder on the battery or the charger itself? Cause excess wear and tear on components? Just curious as to the reasoning. By the way, we currently do not have solar power but probably will in the future. But thank you for the video, it was very helpful!
It depends how far I'm driving. At the end of the day. I want to be 80 to 90% charged. Charging at high current causes more heat and more wear on the batteries and reduces their lifespan. But within a 10-year lifespan most people aren't concerned. If I can charge at 20 amps anb be at 80% or more at the end of the day I'll do that. But if I have a short drive, I charge at 40 amps that with the solar panels the charging current is over 50 amps. As you travel you'll find what works best for you. It's not good to fully charge to 100% SOC or discharge below 10% SOC for the lithium batteries. I'll have more videos on that in the future!
@@FrugalFactor Thanks for the clarification. I had forgotten the recommendation to not go over 80% SOC. We are just starting out so don't have a handle on our electrical usage yet. But even if charging the battery to 100% brings the battery from 5000 cycles down to 2000 that's still 5 1/2 years, and we won't be full time on the road. So as I learn our needs I'll keep the limit wire in mind. Thank you so much for your videos. Your van build has had more influence on ours than anybody else (and I've watched more videos that I want to admit!), so I am grateful for all your efforts. You have a way of building practicality and budget friendly aspects into camper van builds that works well for our needs.
Thank you. That's probably the most positive comment I've received. If you have any further questions you can email me at the contact email listed on the website. Also at www.thefrugalfactor.com are all the videos listed by category. Thanks for watching 🙂
Thanks for sharing. I am a new subscriber. I bought the same items after watching your video. How come you used a battery operated pump instead of this hand pump for your oil change? Thanks in advance for your reply.
Question- is it possible to install a separate on/off switch and not need the remote to turn it on? Or can I use my on/off switch, then use the remote just for color/dimming? I
great tip with the measurements. However, you probably need to mention this wont work as well on a slanted driveway if the vehicle is propped up on ramps or jackstands (to level for working), which is how I am able to do work on my sprinter in my rediculous slanted driveway. But again, I will be using this and ditching the ramps to measure out my water tank mounts.
Oh thank you so much for sharing your vids... I was looking at the river nut option for my transit cargo installations but was kinda clueless about using 'tools' yeah IKR well thank you Sir for sharing your wisdom😊
Do you ever wish the glass was clear? I’ve seen a bunch of these for sale for reasonable prices but they’re all tinted like yours and I felt like that might detract from seeing the sky and stars as they are
Ours has a very slight tint. Not even noticeable when looking at the stars, the Sun or the trees through the hatch. At night we put up a magnetic screen and see the stars straight through the screen also with a hatch open 🙂
TY for the video. I was aware of the garage door size of these screens and the 3ft plus size but had forgotten the ones for patio doors existed. Great solution. About the hook in the B-pillar of the sliding door, could you just put a magnet on the other side of the seal to hold the screening away from that opening? Or sew a tab right there to hold that part of the screen inside away from the sliding door when closing. Or adhere a piece of stiff black plastic to the screen at that point to keep it stiff and from falling open into the "hook area."
We are still using the original screens we made. But when we do replace them I expect the make that thin side piece (which is only about 3 inches wide) out of solid material so it is durable - in case the door closes on it. A strap or tab to hold the screen away might work, but you would need to remember to attach the strap before closing - which I know I would not do. Also, all the videos divided by category are at thefrugalfactor.com/
Hello FF, sorry to bug you again. Well was all set up to do the deed, and I can’t get the filter cap off. I have all the right tools -but it won’t budge! I am afraid I am going to break something if I try any harder. Any ideas?
If you have the stubby ratchet it takes some power to remove it. Be sure you're turning in the right direction. Counterclockwise to remove. The person who put it on may have put it on very tightly which is not necessary. There is a o-ring that will seal. Once you do this the first time you won't have any problems.
@@FrugalFactor yes I have the stubby- and am turning CCW. My dad suggested using a wrench with the circle end over the stub wrench to get more torque. So there is no harm in giving it a good turn- maybe even some hammer tapping? I have a new oil filter cap also- but concerned about fracturing the housing…
Great to see such DIY solutions! Allthough clean copper being a great conductor only (challenged by silver) in humid ( condensarion) environments risk of oxidation is there. Did you consider nickel plating copper parts with DIY nickel/vinaigre solution and low voltage electrolysis?
Nice idea. Never thought about that and it sounds like something I would do! But, it has been working as it for three years now, without any problems. All the videos divided by category can be seen at thefrugalfactor.com/
I only use this for flat panels. For any curves I use Polywall and shape it with a heat gun, then cover with marine vinyl or duramax cloth. All the videos can be seen by category at thefrugalfactor.com/
We have a recirculating shower system in our bus with a propane outdoor water heater that we are having difficulty with. I have consulted a plumber be we are still having trouble, could you possibly advise us on it?
Above the headliner most areas 3/4" (.75"), in a few places two pieces of 3/4" Polyiso. At thefrugalfactor.com/ you can see all the videos divided by category.
I have all the ingredients, a bit timid to make a go at it… Do you recommend removing old filter, leave the cap off, suck old oil out, insert new filter and cap, THEN add the new oil? Your vid shows replacing old with new before extracting old oil… and then loosing the cap again.
You can do it. For the RAM promaster I recommend this order 1. Remove the oil oil filter. 2. Pump out the old oil. 3. Put in the new oil 4. Put in a new oil filter. By removing the oil filter first and leaving it out, makes it easier for the pump to remove the old oil. After your done run then engine a few moments, the turn it off an check the oil level. That's it. Easy to do, and with the pump you never need to crawl under the van! It can easily be done while traveling in a parking lot.
That's a crazy story to hear. Very sad that they shut down that electronics course, even more shameful that they can't allow you to provide kids with one of the most knowledgeable coding programs used around the states. Even through college, I had to use those at a few points in my early coding classes. I feel that a lot of students who have taken your class will know of the opportunity you gave us and the value it provided. Will always remember how amazing and resourceful you have been! And will do my best to keep up with your videos!
Yes, your correct the top mark. If I said it upside down, sorry - guess its how you look t at it :-) At thefrugalfactor.com/ you can see all the videos divided by category.
I'm really glad i took a lot of AP classes, but at the same time I wish I considered which credits would actually be useful. I have credits that don't cover any requirements so they didn't really benefit me, and I could've taken a different class that would have.
As an academic you may not understand this. This is evident in your videos. Let me try try to explain.....When you started your teaching career you where on the up side of educating humanity to higher and higher levels for the betterment of humanity and establishing and maintain a free and prosperous society.....Now in your later years you are on the down side of educating humanity. The theme these days is to dumb down education to fit the newbies into the new emerging totalitarian society. It's Feudalism education. Too much information will allow them to see they are being screwed, so dumb them down... The new societies education systems starts from the earliest stages and progresses to university levels where they are finished off as slaves for the new system...Capture them before their 5 and you will have them for life....
I have had the same valves since installation, about 3 years. They are somewhat covered as seen in the installation. Also, I am in warm climates, and have not traveled in snowy areas (yet). All the videos by category are at thefrugalfactor.com/
Thank You. This is a very popular video. Let me know if you have any other electrical questions. All the videos by category are at thefrugalfactor.com/
The kitchen sink does not have hot water. Not needed. We could reach over and use the shower wand in the kitchen sink, its long enough. In more than two years we have never missed hot water in the kitchen. All the videos by category can be seen at thefrugalfactor.com/
@@FrugalFactor that’s why in my van conversion, I’m putting the shower & kitchen on the same side, driver’s side, to ease plumbing. This way, I can have a hot/cold water “main,” then have the shower & sink (and maybe a small washer/dryer) split off that.
