Acrylic paints do dry the clay faster but you can still use them if you don't have oils. Mica powders will work best on finished pieces. Mixing mica powder into the clay wouldn't yield good results. It would disappear if mixed into the clay.

@@petalbyamandalewis2088 thank you so much for replying, I really appreciate it!

No I have not tried those.

I dust my surface and pin with cornstarch.

It's all personal preference. But just know that you will only get pastel colors if you mix paint into clay.

I would recommend before.

When metallic paint is mixed in the color will show up but the metallic quality generally disappears. This is true for both acrylic and oil metallics. I prefer to paint metallics on after the clay is dry rather than mix it in. Metallic powders such as eye shadow also stick well to dried or moist cold porcelain surfaces and can be sealed with waterbased polyurethane.

@@petalbyamandalewis2088 Thanks!

I would highly recommend using NARA brand cold porcelain or any cold porcelain for miniature plates. If they must be real porcelain I would find a local potter. Miniature plates would take up a tiny amount of room in their kiln and most wouldn't mind...but keep in mind not all potters fire to the high temperatures that real porcelain requires. Best to find someone who fires real porcelain. Using cold porcelain would be the easiest route in my opinion. Finished plates can be sealed with a water based polyurethane for durability and to seal any painted details

I would think it would stick just fine. Just remember to not make the clay too thick or it may crack. I would say 3/4 inch thick at most. You can use foil or another material beneath the clay to bulk out areas that need to be thicker

@@petalbyamandalewis2088 Cool. Thanks for that!

Yes! I would recommend a coating of water based polyurethane when finished for durability

No I have not noticed it leaving my hands powdery. I often coat my hands with nivea cream when I'm working with it to keep it from sticking to surfaces. So I would say it leaves your hands in better condition than when you began working with it.

@@petalbyamandalewis2088 : TY for responding Amanda, and i guess it's the Brand that the product is just real power when working with it, and i don't know if Air Dri clay is supposed to take a few days to completely cure or dry.

Most air dry clay will dry in a few hours if it is less than 1/4 inch thick.

Sangeeta I would be happy to add your website. What is the full address?

@@petalbyamandalewis2088 www.sweeteverlastingblooms.com/ facebook.com/sweeteverlastingblooms/ facebook.com/groups/sebsclayshapecuttersembossers/ I do have lots of products for cold porcelain jewellery and flower making. Happy Crafting!

Sangeeta, your website has been added. There already was a link to your RU-vid channel at the bottom of the page.

@@petalbyamandalewis2088 appreciate!

Yes I have noticed this problem too. I wrap it as tightly as possible with plastic wrap and place it in another bag with a wet wipe for added moisture. I try to only use small bits at a time to prevent the whole block from drying out.

@@petalbyamandalewis2088 thanks a ton for the tip...i had to throw 50% of my clay the first time even after using cling film....will wrap it in one more bag with wipe

And be sure to use a layer of hand cream on the ball of clay or the plastic wrap before wrapping it up. The clay is very sticky.

Hey I am a beginner and dont want to buy sculpey . So can you tell me how is your experience going with vahvaa brand and nara brand

@@petalbyamandalewis2088 I wonder if you could store it with a piece of terracotta like people put in their brown sugar to keep it from getting hard? Have you tried that?

Yes absolutely! The main difference is NARA is not waterproof but very water resistant. I seal jewelry pieces with Jo Sonja brand waterbased polyurethane.