I was really impressed with your video, so much so that I went out and bought a second hand Hegner, Even second hand it was quire a bit more than most new machines from other manufacturers. It has variable speed and the quick release attachment and I' m really pleased with build quality, it purrs and it's quiet without vibration. I take it that Hegners do not come fitted with the hold down arm as a standard fit and are an optional extra? I' finding that holding down the wood to be cut needs a fair bit of pressure and a slight lapse of pressure lifts the wood alarmingly. It can also be tiring on the fingers after a while. I notice that most experienced scroll sawers don't use a hold down arm, probably because it gets in the way when starting a new cut in an complex piece. Do you think a hold down arm would be a useful addition for a beginner, or do you think it would rapidly become a nuisance. A new hold down arm for my machine is well over £100, so that's why I'm hesitating., Thanks Chris
Hello Chris, firstly thank you so much for your kind comment about my video and I am delighted that it encourage you to purchase a Hegner - you have made a wise choice - one that you will never regret. My advice is not to buy a hold down arm, they are a confounded nuisance and most people end up removing them. You will very quickly get used to holding the work down and you will not even feel or think about the effort. Always make sure you put the blade in the right way with the teeth pointing downwards otherwise it will jump about crazily and drive you mad, you would be amazed how many people put blades in upside down. Have you looked at my fretworking website? Lot's of info on there inc a Hegner page etc Search for scrimpers fretworking site . The link is also in my header above. Regards John
Hello John, Thanks for your reply. I'll take your advice and practice holding down the work with my fingers and save the cost of the arm if it's likely to to gather dust in a corner. I've not seen your fretwork videos but I'll certainly take a look. I've seen a few of your whirlygig videos and like the way you adapt all sorts of everyday things to make parts for them. There are a bewildering amount of different blades available for scroll saws but do you find that you have a small number of sizes and types that you use most of the time? Chris
Chris, There are a lot of fretsaw blades available but you only really need to concentrate on two types being the standard plain blade and the reverse tooth variety, I go into detail on the blade page of my website but in essence you can manage quite well with about three grades a number 2 or 3. a number 5 and perhaps a 9 for thicker work. Sizes generally go down to 00 and up to a 12, if you are new to the hobby don't go lower than a number 2 or you will keep breaking them. My advice would be steer clear of spiral blades - at least until you are experienced, they are likely to put you off the hobby for good. Some folk do absolutely stunning work with spirals but most of use hate them. As for reverse tooth blades their only real benefit is they minimise cut out at the bottom of the work, other than that they make little difference. Again I discuss this on my website. Any questions please feel free to ask - although I might not know the answer!
Hello again John, Thanks for taking the time to give me a detailed answer. My Hegner came with a small set of blades which I think might have even come with the Hegner when it was new and I suspect its not had a great deal of use. I now have an idea which to try and which to order in future. Scroll saws seem to me to be a great self contained tool. They take up little space and you don't need to own or use lots of other tools to do most fretsaw projects. I'll look up your website for more ideas and information. Keep doing the videos, they're much appreciated. Chris
Thanks again for your kind comment Chris. In the past there was so little interest in the hobby, powered fretsaws have made a big difference with a lot more taking the hobby up. one of the reasons I did the videos and website was to encourage people to give the hobby a try - several people have told me they started the hobby after watching my videos which makes the videos all worthwhile. I make zero from my videos or website and I don't want too, kind comments like yours are all the reward I need.
So glad you liked my design. Not sure what you are asking about blade degree? Do you mean the propeller blades? If so the answer is I don't do them scientifically, I just do what I think looks about right and they all seem to work.
Kieran, you need a blade length of 59 1/2 inches (1511mm) in length they are widely available. I would advise buying a good quality blade rather than the cheap ones - a good quality blade will improve your saw tremendously. I can recommend a company called Tuffsaws (UK only) I am using their blades on my saws and find them superb and way better than cheaper makes I have used in the past.
@@scrimperuk ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ChawvxPb2Yg.htmlsi=H2jkxRxTWitJlmzZ My hoarde of dustettes maybe you will have info I don’t have
Many thanks for your kind comment. IMHO the 862/867's were the best non upright cleaners Hoover ever produced - excellent suction - very reliable - good build quality and simple to service - what's not to like!
@@scrimperuk I have two dogs and when the floor has lots of dog hair on it I find the exhaust blows the hair all over! Apart from that yes a great design
My bolt sheared on tour. Googled it and came across this video. Got an 8m bolt and nuts. Was back on the road in a jiffy! Thanks to this video. Cheers mate.
It is not easy trying to carry out out a repair and at the same time operate cameras and explain what I am doing entirely off the cuff without any script. My main objective is only to show other people with the same issue how to do the modification. I don't make the videos for max views and have not received or claimed any payment from ebay for any of my video content. In essence I do the best I can with the filming but I am not a professional film-maker.
Sorry Norman I do not have any whirligig plans at the moment but when I get time I may add a page covering whirligigs on my fretworking website when I could offer free plans. The link to the site is in my youtube header.
Great film and very nostalgic for me I was a deck hand on Western Lady lV my first summer job aged 16 in 1980 , fastest ferry in the bay at that time twin Gardner engines pushing along the WW2 naval Fairmile hull along at a brisk 12 knots.
Same happened the a saw I, recently got, I actually stripped the switch down and inside it was physically worn on the contacts so no way to repair unfortunately. I think this is what generally happens to 90% of them. I do have pictures I'd taken of inside it aswell. I even tried a work around but it just never latched on due to unrepairable wear and tear. Did the same as yourself but I went a bit geeky and installed a red 240v panel indicator on the top of the box to show power was going into it, even if the emergency stop was pressed etc so it will remind me to fully isolate it.
Thank you for your comment Richard. Being an electrical bod by trade and always inquisitive I took mine apart too and found the worn contacts. They are a super saw, I only use mine for crosscutting and use it most days, in all the years I have owned mine this is the only thing that has gone wrong.
Hi buddy, bought a DW1251 about 10 years ago and only last month bought a DW1501. Had great pleasure in stripping every bit of it down including the motor and overhauling it. The carriage bearings when I took them off i thought where beyond repair but, hardly turned and so gunked up, I soaked all 3 in oil, turned them, soaked in oil... 3 days of doing this routine i then heated up with a hot air gun brought them back to life like new. It's now like new, I'm just awaiting on a replacement table for it. I've been looking out for accessories for them but none have come up yet on ebay.
Thank you for the video John, it is most informative. I have two Easifits - one on my MTB and one on my wifes claude butler. The wifes kit has started to display the problem you mentioned whereby the throttle overide kicks in without the throttle being pushed and the bike really takes off. I've yet to investigate it. Do you have any theories about what the cause could be?
Hello Robert, thanks for watching my video and for your comment. I don;t think there is much you can do to rectify this issue , I imagine it is a 'quirk' or bug in the software, when Easifit were in business they would have tried to correct it with a firmware update but now they have 'gone out of business there is little hope. In our case it does not really cause any problems. you could try contacting LVBU who made the kit to see if they can offer any help.
Thanks for the helpful video, just one hint: That safety clip (video 4:30) can be removed very easily provided you plunge the route ALL the way down. Then it is visible above the rim of the plastic housing and easily accessible.
Never heard of any child or person being injured by a whirligig propeller, most whirligigs are on a pole and out of reach of children in any case. I made my very first propeller out of wood but soon realised that metal ones were better being much lighter. If you are concerned about danger to children make certain that you site the whirligig high enough so they are out of reach of little hands. Even a wooden propeller whizzing round in the wind could hurt if a hand is placed in the way of it.
Hello sir, thank you for the helpful video, I am unable to find a Dado set for this model, do you know if more contemporary Dado sets, such as Freud, with a 5/8" arbor setting, work with the 16mm arbor? I bought this tool for the Dado capability yet still am unable to find the original Dado set specific to the model. Thanks!
Thanks for this. Can you let me know what size / make of bearings to buy for this repair - I have mine apart and ready to have them fitted but I can’t see what to look for in the bearings. Thanks a million!
Hi Andy. Sorry I don't remember the bearing numbers but both are readily available amd the size is marked on the actual bearings. I know the top (smaller) bearing is an LJ8 or 608 bearing. I got both bearings from my bearing stock the bigger (bottom) one was the same as fitted to a Hoover washing machine and the LJ8 was fitted to Hoover cleaner motor. As I mention they are both readily available.
When we make do with what we have in my part of the world we call it,""working out of a hollow""! I like that you make do with whatever you can scrounge up?
It does depend on what you are trying to do i.e. how much effort is needed to move the object. for simple things any wire will do the job but if you need something stronger bicycle spokes are strong, they do bend fairly easily but they don't have much 'give' and can jam the movement, it's trial and error really. Use what you have available if it doesn't work try something else.
Thanks for the comment. I use whatever is available or what I have 'scrounged' or what others have thrown away for example it might be part of an old wire rack from a shop, a griddle from an old cooker or a bit of old Meccano rod. [I have done a video on using rods] Generally old Meccano rods are ideal as they can be bent into a cam shape easily yet are also robust and don't bend on their own so to speak. Also you can use old Meccano wheels or pulleys to connect to the propeller or as bushes on the rods. But whatever you have is best. Meccano rods are 0.160" (4.06mm) in diameter.
I doubt they are still available, there were two types one was a proper quality head with cutters, the same sort of head used on a spindle moulder, then there was the cheap dado unit (poor quality) that they often bundled with the saw as in my case. I only use my saw as a cross cut machine so removed the riving knife as it is not required cross-cutting. I don't recommend using the saw as a rip saw, it is very dangerous. They can throw out the wood with the speed of a bullet.
I cut my teeth on 8 inch floppies back in the early eighties. Left the computing industry in 2017. I feel very old now (ha ha). Good to see you back on the tubes John.
Thank you Stephen. I bet you don't feel as old as me! I left the appliance repair business some years ago and it has changed beyond belief. You must have seen some massive changes in the computer business over the years.
@@scrimperuk Too true. All the programming languages I gained qualifications in and used on a daily basis no longer exist but it's when you come across equipment you worked on in museums, that's when you feel old (ha ha) All the best.
8 inch hard sector disks. I wish I’d kept some just to show people. I remember when I was in the early days of repairing IBM PCs, the chap from IBM was demonstrating the full height 360k floppy drive. He was confident the cost of the drives, which was about £300 each, would probably not drop much and people would never need more than 360k storage. How wrong he was when the cost of a 1.44mb drive dropped to £10. I remember the first hard drives of 5gb that were like bricks and had ferro coated platters. I still have some Connor 20 go 3 1/2 “ hard drives. And an Everex cassette tape drive unit.
Hello John It’s great to see you back and thank you so much for producing another excellent and entertaining video. It’s always a pleasure watching your informative videos from the other side of the world and it was interesting to learn about your history of computer data storage systems across time. You must have been an early adopter of home computers. I used Zip drives at work probably getting on for 30 years ago in Melbourne Australia and I recall that they were a revolution at the time. Best wishes to you. 🇦🇺
Thank you so much for your very kind comments Simon, I really don't deserve the praise. I started work in the TV/Radio repair business but always wanted to switch to computers as I was always fascinated with them from the early days but never got the opportunity to work on them as a job.
Hi John, crikey that takes me back to my engineering days at Spirax Sarco… You soon forget what a pain it was to upload and save data. Good to see you back 👍
I saw your earlier videos on the kit and this encouraged me to buy one from the Easyfit bike company. I thought it looked well made and a neat solution using a gyroscope to regulate the power. Like a fool I thought fitting the wheel to the forks would be the easiest part of the installation so I went ahead and fitted everything else first. Like you I didn't like the idea of the electronics under the bottom bracket so having made sure the cable was long enough I made a simple bracket so I could attach it to the underside of the luggage rack. The problem I encountered was fitting the wheel between the forks. The axle spacing was fine but the motor fouled the legs of the fork. As the bike is an elderly MTB with a solid (thick) fork and impossible to bend in any way I realised it would never fit my bike. When I contacted the company They were helpful but couldn't suggest a way around the problem and agreed on a full refund which was paid promptly. I gave up the idea of a hub motor and bought a Tongshen mid drive motor and battery for two thirds the price of the hub motor. This time I went for a bottle battery instead of the saddle mount. I've had it a year and can only say I've been delighted with it. Thanks for the update, always nice to know warts and all how purchases work out.
Thanks for the comment Colin and for sharing your experiences. To be honest both the rear wheel or hub motors are much better options than the front wheel version. One must always be a little concerned at have the weight of a motor in a set of forks that were never intended to have a heavy motorised wheel in them. The Dawes super galaxy seems to cope but one is always about the issue. If we ever need another kit I would go for either the hub or rear wheel.
Great video. I am having identifying a constellation type vacuum cleaner that my wife inherited. It doesn't have the usual normal hoover badge but has a large white H on a red background. I cannot find a serial plate but everything else is similar to the 867A. Is it a copy or a Hoover?
Hi Mark, thank you for your comment. The machine will be be genuine but the badge you describe is one supplied by a pattern parts supplier. Your machine has either been reconditioned or the original badge was missing and a pattern one fitted. Pattern parts makers had to use just an H to represent Hoover because the Hoover Logo was copyrighted and Hoover took action on pattern makers using their logo. The 867a first came out in 1965.
Thanks for the comment, George used to be fine with the camera since he started a course at university he has become camera shy. probably worried his mates would 'rib' him.
I can certainly appreciate that this would be a splendid mike for voice overs - the sound is very impressive and cuts outs all that 'room ringing' that less directional mike's introduce - but I wonder how suitable it would be more the workshop? Thanks for showing us John.
Thanks for the comment Mark. As you can hear on the main part of the video the mic on the camcorder I use (only a cheap camera) is pretty good in fact as good as this stand alone mic. I think you are correct it might not be very good in the workshop - too direction able.
I just bought 1 of these ytd for our men's shed. I'm getting a crash coarse on all the intricacies . Thanks. We paid $200 AU how much were they new and what year did the 1251 come out??
Hi Aussie, The price you paid sounds very good value to me. it is such a long time since I bought mine and I don't remember the price paid. They stopped making the model 46 years ago!
Thank you very much Roger. The bike conversion is still working well, I did film a video on how it has been since I fitted it with news of a newer version but before I got around to editing the video the people selling the kit seemed to have ceased trading and disappeared. So it did not seem worth completing the video.
Thanks Colin we haven't cycled much in the last few weeks due to a lot of our routes are flooded leaving just the main roads that are not nice to cycle on.
Really good to see you back John. Love all your videos being a fretwork fan (scroll saw)...The website is good too...Brings back lots of memories when I had a Hobbies 'Gem' Keep up the good work. Chris
