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VERY useful info. Thanks. 1 critique though, that goes for ALL gym- and stretch specialists on youtube : you guys have no idea what "inflexible" means. Imagine the "before"-guy in the video above, then diminish the angle between his 2 legs to about 60-65° instead of the 90°+ in the video ( because of stiffness in his inner thighs ) , and finally round his back wáy more to the point he can barely avoid falling backwards ( mostly because of stiffness in his hamstrings ). THAT'S inflexible. I should know, I'm one of them... :-)
Most of them look like too much focused on the hold and not enough use of the counter balancing foot. Instead of a straight shot to the hold the body should fall into the hold to maintaining balance without the need to stop excessive momentum by catching the hold while flying away from or too far past the hold
I climb with my son. He's about 5'10"/5'11". It frustrates me when he tells me to reach a hold he has no problem with and I'm at least six inches short in the reach. I'm a little over 5'5".
Just a reminder: these things can easily be built by yourself. You do not need to buy this stuff. Just some old scrap wood is enough. My hangboard cost me only the screws I used for screwing it to my wall
This is great for advanced climbers but another video for training contact strength for the other 99% would be great. The best suggestion I have heard so far is to get on a moonboard or kilterboard, take a starting position, then choose one hand as the one that will be moving and bump around to all the adjacent holds. Then swap over. Then keep both hands still and do the equivalent exercise with your feet placements. Other suggestions appreciated. : )
Ive been using a homemade lifting block for about 5 years. In my experience, it has been the best for gaining finger strength. I just do max lifts without holding for time. Haven't reached bodyweight yet but slowly workup to it!
Great vid! As a sports physio there was a lot of great advice, I would however suggest most climbers would benefit from lower volume (reps and sets) with higher loads (weight) as it will not fatigue their reserves for more climbing as much (if fatigue conditioning is not the the goal). Additionally, higher loads (within safe ability) will increase the working structures capacity better (think ligaments and tendon integrity) which will better reduce risk of injury than lower loads high reps, AND higher loads of lower rep sets improve strength gains more over time and most tricky climbing manoeuvres that require a large amount of strength don't usually involve more than 1-2 reps on the wall anyway. Final unsolicited advice, would be range of motion should never be compromised for load in climbers because of the positions you may end up in are more extreme, so for example a great leg strength exercise (no leg exercises were mentioned) would be hip abducted and externally rotated to the side on a stable box/surface facing close to a wall (mimicking the rock over) then basically doing full range pistol squats in this position at load you can only do around 5 reps/set. It's super sport specific and if you can't pistol squat you can jump yourself up to the top and then try to control the negative eccentric of the movement until you can do a full pistol squat yourself. Just getting into bouldering and getting a lot from this channel, would be keen to contribute in or see a physio/climbing conditioning coach specific video in the future
Honestly for me supersetting Pull ups (highly fatiguing excercise) with Squats (most fatiguing excercise there is) simply doesn’t work. It’s way too much stress on my body and I need Rest in between both excercises anyway. I think most hobby athletes do
At the end of the day, being a strong human is always better than being a weak human. Lean muscle mass is one of the key predictors of longevity and it protects the body from injury. If you don't lift, you should strongly consider adding at least a little to your training.
The common thing ive noticed amongst all elite athletes is that they actually dont have to work as hard as non elites. They attain high grades or speed or strength very rapidly, and very quickly surpass people who lack genetics and have been training considerably longer. This isnt armchair theory, I have trained and logged hours for longer and had been professionally coached and watched people who I knew personally train not even 3/4 the amount of time and with very little attention to detail surpass me entirely due to genetics. I ate better trained more consistently, had more supervision, literally did everything that training science says that you should to a more extreme degree- and I lived with them so there was no secrets about what they were doing. But genetics will win every time. So there's really no point for intermediates to take notes on what elites do. Comparatively they really do not have to do much compared to everyone else in order to be extremely successful. That's not to say they don't work hard amongst their level-they do, however, a person with inferior genetics can train significantly more than them in an intelligent and supervised way and not anywhere near the results. Their genetic advantages provide them with so much benefit that even hearing how they describe using their body is inapplicable to an intermediate who actually would benefit from strength training to a higher degree.
Does anyone else experienced a loud pop without a pulley rupture? Are there any other reasons this sound may occur? 2 weeks ago I injured my middle finger during warmup for whatever reason.. I heard a loud pop and immediate soreness in my A4 pulley region. I already had an ultrasonic exam and everything seems fine. I can load my finger to some extend without paint but it does not feel good enough yet to climb. I do some mobility daily and will also see another physiotherapist next week..
Its really surprising how poorly the elite atheletes understand basic weightlifting science and program it in either a useless or actively detrimental way.
Surprised deadlifts and squats weren’t mentioned much. I feel they helped my climbing. Specifically in jumping higher for dynos, and the amount I can pull through a heel hook blows the minds of guys I climb with. I think having strong hamstrings and quads makes these moves feel easy.
@@rundown132 heavy compound lifts definitely increased the amount of tension my lower back and legs can handle. Knowing I can lift over twice my body weight increased my confidence on the wall under high pressure. Moves like underclings on a roof, awkward positions, for sure used to make my lower back and legs feel shaky, now I’m super strong and confident in those moves. Can’t agree more. That being said these people r pro climbers. They know more than me what they need to train to be the absolute best. For them the pros/cons are different. I bet having another 10-20 pounds of muscle at their level is ultimately is a detriment to climbing at these extreme grades. But as a casual, I’m totally fine with putting on 15 pounds of muscle to increase my squat working weight from 90lb to 315lb. There’s definitely benefits to being strong on the wall, but that added mass can hurt too.
@@LuLzezRoflcopter you explained perfectly what I was trying to communicate to a friend at the gym the other day. I was advocating for the deadlift for climbing, not only for activating and coordinating the posterior chain (his view), but for overloading. When you do reps in the 300+ lb range, your body gets acclimated to tension forces in the posterior chain unlike anything it will see in climbing or other lifts. You know the feeling -- if you'd never done it before and were subjected to those forces, you might think it's some kind of medieval torture! The tension forces in climbing feel so small by comparison -- half or less. The relative effort is so small, it's like your body will produce those smaller forces on demand, effortlessly, and joyously, as if to say "ah, now that is why we subject ourselves to the madness of that monstrous lift!"
@@andrewmccullough559 haha thank you. Yeah agree heavy lifts and climbing are totally different muscle stimulus. Training one sport helps when getting into the other, but not replacements. Climbing will never be a replacement for heavy squats.
@@andrewmccullough559 yeah there are countless studies showing the benefits of specifically heavy lifts. The cove-ate is it is a hard sport to master. It can be dangerous for the inexperienced. Start slow, get a coach.
For me resistance training is more about keeping my body fit for climbing. Working full time, less emphasis on diet, and what it does for me mentally. Not gifted strength wise but lifting helps and it makes mind muscle connections which can be applied to the skill based sport climbing certainly is.
This is probably going to be drowned in the comments but I'm curious: Why is face pulls never recommended? For me at least it feels like on of the best exercises for climbing (pull ups and one arm row excluded)
What Aidan is describing is essentially a face pull. He just uses a resistance band because he does a lot of his training at home. Agreed its an amazing exercise for climbers!
