Not gonna like me for what I’m about to say. But it needs to be said on all fronts. This sight is beautiful piece work. Just tell one thing? What justifies the, depending on version the $350.00 to close to $500.00 price tag. Looks like the same amount of raw material as others. Why are bows, arrows & sights costing such ridiculous prices? Seem these greedy profit mongers just can’t resist gouging consumers. Sorry for bringing to the reality’s of the shinny new toys. I know. You don’t have to buy these things & your right. And I won’t.
Yeah they’re not meant to shoot foam haha. Unfortunately, they’re a “one and done” when it comes to hitting stuff. But they do a lot of damage when they do!
On the first day I got my compound I shot several dozen arrows. Pull weight was 50 pounds. Next morning, my left wrist (bow holding hand) hurts right in the joint. I’m hoping this pain subsides as I practice more and build up strength.
All bows in the last 4-6 years are extremely nice to shoot and they all shoot and feel similar! Don’t understand why bow companies try to come up with a new bow every year. I’ve updated bows and even though it’s nice to buy a new bow, I’ve often felt that there’s no real need to because the previous bows shoot just as nice!!
It’s called capitalism 🤪 But I agree. I’m shooting a fiver year old Traverse and have a hard time switching. The only bow is probably buy that I feel is that much different is the Hoyt AlphaX 33. That draw cycle is absolutely butter!
I have and issue were the pin gose below the centre and I have issue bringing the pin back up so I always shoot low any recommendations on this issue thanks
The Evoke 31 is going to VT Tac, 2024. We walked the Axcell Levitate/AVX31 sight back to 112yds. So far. I loved this bow since day one! The reviews here are spot on!
I recently watched your video on bare shaft tuning from a couple of years ago and had a couple of questions on that line instead of Target Panic. I have a 2022 Hoyt Ventum 30 set at 26.5 inches and 65#. It has a Hanskea Epsilon rest. I have it tuned and set up fairly well. I have been shooting Easton 6.5 match grade at 400 spine 125 grain tip 23 grain insert and 3 AEE Max Stealth vanes. The arrows were cut at 27". I had started out with the bow at 50- 55# and worked up to the 65 over a couple of months of practice. I thought that I might be getting a bit under spined so ordered 340 spine but same everything else and have some cut 26" started some at 27 " again. I cut two to 26" and two to 27" and fletched one of each. Left the others bare shaft. I worked them in using the rest like in the first part of the video before mentioning cutting to achieve the perfect arrow. They all seem to be grouping relatively close at 30 yards. The 26" bare and fletched are touching as are the 27"arrows. The 27 group is left of the aiming point 2" and 2" low. The 26" group are .5" right and 1" low. I had thought that the 27" should be right and the 26 left because of the rule of spine, stiff going left and weak right....and not touching given what you are doing. This was just one of many rounds and usually they were all nearly touching but a bit low and a bit right (2")of the aim point. Do you think either arrow length will work with broadheads? Thanks
If you fudge the numbers in the sight in process to meet your measured chronometer speed you won't get an accurate sight tape. You need to sight the bow in at your short distance and your long distance and measure the distance apart those two marks are on you sight and let the software generate your speed which will probably be considerably slower than your actual speed.
Started doing my own vanes a few years ago and this is by far the best and most detailed explanation of how to do a good fletching job. You demonstrate what to and not to do and why. Nice work.
Just bought a bowtech core ss. 60 lbs set at mid fifties 27.5” draw length. Sometimes after I pull it back it wants to take off or jump forward. What should I do?
I’m a 27.5” draw and I use the same arrow for hunting and target. My arrow cut length is 27” and my insert/outsert is about 5/8”. I’m pretty comfortable running a fixed broadheads, but I could see it being an issue for some. Good content.
I'd use hotmelt and cut the front to save vane glueing but great info man. I completely agree with bareshaft tuning. If you can shoot very consistently, a bullet hole bareshaft=broadhead flying true. Infact if I shoot my broadhead when its calm outside and it does not hit center on a good break, I immediate shoot paper with a bareshaft and see if my bow is out of tune. Almost always the paper tear reflects what a broadhead does down range. Because of that I always keep a bareahaft of all my setups as a test of my tune.
