My name is Mike Wilson and I am a 3D printing enthusiast and maker. This channel represents my various adventures in 3D printing. In many cases, the content I post is based on questions I have had as I work on my printers. For questions email me at minimal3dp@gmail.com
Thank you for this great video! I am having trouble making an account with Chet club, is there anything special I have to do? I have tried to sign up with two different emails now and both failed. 😞
My knob controll just got stuck. Considering upgrading to the touchscreen. Any idea if the screen upgrade is supported or as of yet possible on the touch screens. I can't seem to find any reviews on this.
Can you help me with my under extrusion problems that I have with my E3 Pro? I can send you details and info about my printer. I installed Klipper successfully on the skr mini e3 v3 but the print results are very bad despite the machine ran well with the original board.
Thanks for the video, I have not played with setting much, but on my Ender3 V3 SE, the same model sliced with Creality Print generates no stringing, while on Orca, it creates a lot whatever I have changed. and for sure Creality does not spiral retraction. something is done correctly there, although they don't update Creality Print much, while Orca gets all the new features every now and then. Someone should find the difference.
The Tower method is terrible AND is highly inefficient. I tried the tower method when I first switched to Orca, but it wasn't even close in practice. I've used the Line method for a couple years (on Marlin then Klipper), but it is often hard to find the prefect line, especially with a shiny textured build plate, or shiny filaments. I think I'll give the Pattern method a try on my next filament. I haven't tried it yet because the Orca Slicer GitHub has no information on it in the calibration section, and I wasn't sure how it worked. Thanks for the video!
at 26 seconds in the text on the screen says COREXY - ONLY!!! So I am making an assumption that this isnt applicable to bedslingers, did I jump the gun with my assumption?
Thanks for the video. Maybe I missed it but did they fix the bridging issue? The one that affected Prusa, Orca, and Bambu slicers? I know Prusa and Bambu have updated theirs and fixed it. I hope Orca did as well. Thanks
Na podstawie mojego zrozumienia testu, opiera się on na odczuciach i wyglądzie. Gdybym tego nie powiedział, wszystkie modele wyglądałyby dobrze. Użyłem formuły z notatek o wydaniu. Jeśli zrobiłem to niepoprawnie, daj mi znać, jak powinienem to zrobić.
I already have enough of my printer tronxy x5sa. I installed the Klipper on the rpi4, the printer board I have is the original V10-446, I did everything as in the video and when I start printing the nozzle is above the table 2.2 mm. I don't know what to do anymore. Is anyone able to advise?
Thank you for the video. I've just started using Orca and these are very helpful. I have a question though. I have 2 of the same printers and have been through the e step calibration on each of the extruders. Once a new flow calibrations figure figure has been established for each machine can I then apply the figure to the existing e step value and then reset the flow rate in the slicer back to 1? This would help me enormously as I would have one profile for both machines.
@@minimal3dp Cura 5.8 is best more easy , more spec, good for dual ext & support, more plugin, good contextuel help , sorry for orca man, its good, but Cura is best
@@minimal3dp Cura5.8 is best , best for multitools & multicolor, best for contextual help & community, best for innovation & plugin, sorry i have more need cura for my work & printer
Ive been ising default settings. In cura, you have wall layers for thickness before infill. So I would normally do like 6 wall lines before infill for strength and to hide seeing inside of model if first wall is to thin. On orca, I cant find this setting.
really wish you would have stuck with the ender, and continued the tutorial all the way to completion, because as a new user i finally got caught up through part one of your video after several times watching and following through just to get to this one and find myself lost at how to actually get this thing to flash and connect to it and use any of this. i dont really know where to go from here and considering just formatting my ras pi and trying again with another tutorial. Really liked the detail you went into in the first video but felt this one really lacked the same quality
Youre measuring this all wrong. You need to be measuring a full filled cube. Walls in this instance is not your understanding if "walls" as in thin house walls, but rather it's talking about just the outer SKIN of the print. These thin little boxes demonstrate absolutely nothing because you're misunderstanding what precise walls is trying to do. You're actually adding DOUBLE walls with what you're doing here. This is adding two walls on both sides, so youre not seeing any benefit. There's no room for the inner extrusion to recede to if it has a wall right up against its back. Precise walls gives you effectively a corrected form of contour expansion, is another way to think of it.
Good video thank you any chance you know how to edit the e steps i have worked it out what needs changed but cannot get into firmware or M503 doesn't work and i edit raw g code tried to reset configure file but will not work any ideas?
great video, I was also wondering what that feature did. Although as maybe a small point, precision is different from accuracy. Precision is the repeatability of a value. Based on the video it seemed like the values were more consistent with precise wall on, but still inaccurate. Maybe using precise wall and an additional offset could help get both? Regarding wall order, it definitely made a difference for me, although it depends on how many inner walls you have. I'm printing channels in a block and it does make quite a bit difference along with adjusting the inner and outer wall line thickness so there isn't a gap or overlap in the preview (although this is kind of what precise wall does and could result in weaker parts but with better precision). Also the seam type can make a big difference.
Still new to 3d printing so this is SUPER helpful - thank you! Would I have to run this for nozzle swaps, as well, or would they be the same because it's the same filament (using this to try to get better prints using Overture Gold Silk PLA).
Having problems getting this working with Marlin. For whatever reason the gcode generated with orcaslicer doesn't do the adaptive bed mesh and skips the step entirely. I was able to get it working with the prusaslicer implementation of adaptive bed mesh (from RH3D video), it does the bed leveling step, but what I don't understand is that from the face of it, the gcodes generated look pretty much the same, even when I replicate what I used for the prusaslicer gcode in orcaslicer, the orcaslicer gcode still skips the bed leveling step. What could I be doing wrong?
Howdy. I'm really looking forward to your next video. I'm just barely ahead on the electronics myself. I am excited to see how you handle putting the CANBUS cable in because I think I have a printed part that's bad or the wrong one. Be nice to verify my build by watching yours.
