I am a 24 year old apprentice bench joiner from the uk. I have a real interest in woodwork and have a lot still to learn but i would like to share some of my projects. I plan on sharing many videos like general tips, tool restoration, reviews and of course woodworking projects.
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Nice. Scribing has always confused me. I’m not a pro. Just a diy dad. I don’t understand how you decide on the thickness of the scribe block. What am I missing?!
When you are doing it like this it doesn’t really matter. Just line the end panel up to the cabinet before fitting and it will be bigger than the cabinet. For example let’s say it is 20mm bigger than the cabinet. In this case you would need something bigger than 20mm. Let’s say you use some 30mm timber to clamp on top of the panel and lift it off the ground. You would need to use a scribe block the exact same size (30mm). This would lift the end panel off of the floor 10mm once it is hooked on the unit. Then you use your 30mm scribe block to mark a line. As the end panel is off the ground 10mm the mark will be 20mm from the bottom of the panel. Cut this and unclamp the piece and it should finish level with the top once it’s in place. I might have made it even more confusing but hopefully that makes a bit of sense?😆 if not, let me know and I will try explain it better. Thank you for watching👍🏼
There are a few ways to do that really. You can either oversize the piece, do your scribe and then mark on a level line where you want your straight cut and cut it with something like a track saw. Or the way I do it mainly is overhang the bit you want to scribe lets say 40mm for example and level it up. Then if you clamp it in place, set your scribe tool to 40mm and cut it out. The board should slide back 40mm and finish flush on the front edge. Hope this helps? If not let me know and I can try to answer it better? Thank you for watching👍🏼
@@DorothyChicken-j5b hi, no that shouldn’t matter it just needs to be enough so that you can hook the cabinet onto the top of the unit. I would say anything from an in to 2 inch is ideal. It’s the depth of them that is the critical measurement and they need to be the exact same as each other. Thank you for watching!
Yeah, like at the start of my video you just have to offer the end panel up to the carcass and it will overhang it at the top. Your piece needs to be bigger than that overhang and both the exact same size as each other. If it is less the overhang when you try and hook it on it won’t raise the panel up off the floor if that makes any sense? And it’s no worries I’m happy to help as much as I can so feel free to ask👍🏼
It probably doesn’t show easy they are to make in the video so I apologise for that but if you manage to get one made it makes cutting wedges so easy and can just save the jig and use it again and again
@@mwjoinery No need to apologize. Sorry, I am just being cranky. Lots of RU-vid videos have clickbait headlines like This will amaze you and world's fastest. I am laying cedar in a sauna on a sloped floor with a drain in the middle and going mad trying to level it with varying wedges sizes and lengths.
I watched this and thought the Template was a good idea, it took a while for it to sink in how you were doing with it but then I caught on. (I think). The part I am having trouble with is when you are transferring this to the ply from the offcut? You have the offcut on the ply 1:25 but you don't mention where to position it on the ply to transfer the marks? Or am I missing something? Also, you are not using a full length piece, so do you have to go down the van by placing the offcut next to where the offcut was when you marked it and do it all again? (I haven't even got a van yet, but looking all this stuff up ready for when I do). Cheers.
All you have to do is make sure all of your marks fit on the sheet below and make sure the template stays exactly still once you start. I did this by doing the template first then just laid it on the sheet of ply where I thought would be close. Then before you make and marks just use the stick and check it on the points you think will be closest to the edge of the board and move it until they all fit. And then as for the template not being full sized that doesn’t matter too much as long as the tick reaches in the furthest corners and still has enough to draw round on the template. I’m not sure if I have understood your question correctly and if my reply answers it? If not will you try and explain it again and I will try help you out as much as I can Thank you for watching and I hope this helps?😁
I understand it isn’t very complex but I wanted one for myself so thought I may as well record making it. I like to make things that most people could have a go at as well as the normal stuff I make at work
Very nice, what van have you gone for? I did with this van mate yes. But on my van at work I didn’t have any so just piloted the metal will a small drill bit and used just ordinary wood screws. It actually got hold just as good. It hasn’t toppled over yet and it’s been in about 3 years😆
Thanks a lot!👍🏼 yeah it was just an off cut of mdf I used for the video but it will work with material really. MDF is very easy to mark and cut so it may take a little bit more time with timber but should still be able to get a good finish!😁
I get that it seems like a bit of a mess about on the video but if you keep the 2 blocks used to scribe and clamp on it is actually a pretty quick way of doing it in my opinion
It doesn’t have anything to do with the size of the block as long as they are the exact same size as each other. The end panels are oversized so if you slide that to the wall it will stick out past the cupboard for example it may be 20mm. In this case as long as the blocks are bigger than 20mm this method will work. It’s quite hard to explain over a message but I could show it in person very easily😆 if you don’t understand let me know and I will try and explain it better. Thank you for watching👍🏼
Previously thought this was a black art, but it’s easy if you know how. Thanks for this superb video, cut my end panels with confidence and a perfect fit now.
It’s actually a quick and easy way of doing It I would say personally. I get that it looks a bit tedious in the video having to make that bit you clamp on and scribe with but you can use the same one for jobs in the future. Also a lot of the time you don’t really need to sand it but just wanted to make sure it was as close as possible for the vid👍🏼
Why is that if you don’t mind me asking? If it is because of leaving a raw edge on the bottom, I would keep the factory edge down and cut the top if square. If it needs scribing this is just how I would normally do it but I’m open to suggestions👍🏼
Yeah that’s still a good method. I just find this one quicker and easier personally. I get the video makes it seem like a lot more work but I just keep them bits of timber to clamp on and it can be done in no time. Thank you for watching👍🏼
@@mwjoinery sorry mate,I should have said your method is good aswell! Everyone has got their own way of doing things and I would use your method in the right situation 👍
I boarded it just because most vans these days come with like a hard plastic floor in them but they follow the contours of the floor for some reason rather than making them flat. I don’t understand why they don’t just make them flat personally because sliding any sheets in on the contoured floor was a nightmare. Thank you for watching👍🏼
Hi, thank you. It is a bit of a confusing thing to explain especially when it is not in person. If you search ticking stick method on RU-vid it will show you some tutorials of how that method is used. Then I just used that method on a slightly bigger scale. I did also try and explain it a bit in the captions on the video if that helps at all? Thanks for watching
Nice technique. Oddly, at the very end of the video, the door is proud of the panel. Probably just needs to be adjusted bc it was flush when you first did it.
Bit of a long winded effort to cut the wrong end, obviously if the floor is a disastrous level you might have to cut the bottom edge, but we/me has always cut top and back making sure both are plum and level… we never expose the underside due to moisture absorption, that’s a quick way to see a panel swell… and we always screw behind the hinges and shelf to conceal and fixings… not saying this guy is wrong but not our way…🤷🏼♂️👍🏴
Hi, I do tend to just cut the top if the floor is level and I should have mentioned that. If I do it this way I also seal the end and then silicone it but completely forgot to add that to the video😆 I did put the screws either behind the hinges and inline with where the shelf will go other than the one at the top as I thought that will be out of sight anyway. Thank you for the comment and appreciate the feedback😁👍🏼
good lord that 'music' is terrible. I'm glad there wasn't narration (at least for the first 30 seconds, that's all I could take) so I could mute it. but narration would have been better.
I’m sorry you think that. I just found it boring with no music but youtube free music isn’t the best so it’s pretty restricting and hard to find anything good😆 appreciate the feedback either way👍🏼
Thank you, appreciate the comment! I am planning on taking it a bit more serious and currently have 3 videos nearly finished so they will be coming soon. Thanks again👍🏼👍🏼
@@mwjoinery no worries bro, thanks for the tip, I’ll be using that this week! I’ve subscribed and turned on notifications so I’ll not miss your vids. Thanks for the efforts mate, a lot of work goes into making videos like this and it’s hard enough getting work done without the added hassle of filming it. So just wanted to say how much it’s appreciated man and wish you loads of luck with the woodworking and the channel
It is definitely worth trying and you will have to let me know how you get on with it! Just remember to seal the bottom of the end panel. I forgot to add that in the video👍🏼 It does add a fair bit of time onto doing stuff but I really enjoy doing it so I am trying to make some more time for it! Finally have a workshop set up at home so there will definitely be videos coming soon! Will be more the making side of things rather than this video so I hope you still enjoy. Thank you for taking the time to comment it means a lot😁👍🏼
@@mwjoinery No worries bro, been in the trades 20 years and I know what it takes to be good. It’s not a skill you learn, it’s something you have to become. And you’re well on the way mate and to see it is pleasing in and of itself. Also, I wanna learn how to build and fit my own kitchens so I’ve got my fingers crossed for your future content! Also, what do you seal it with? I assume you do it before taking the masking tape off, as it’s already protecting the face?
Thank you! To be honest with you kitchens aren’t something I get to do very often as I’m more bench joinery based but would love to make my own kitchen in the future so who knows! The guy who first showed me that technique used to seal it with a bit of pva on the cut side and he left the tape on so I have always done the same. Then seal it to the floor with some clear silicone once it’s in position😁
Yeah it is a handy method. Just remember to seal it at the bottom if you do use this method. It can be any size as long as the piece you clamp on is the exact same as the one you run across the floor. This is why (like In the video) I cut them out of the same piece so I know they are the exact same. That is the only important measurement, can just be thin bits of offcuts as long as it hooks on the cabinet ok. Thank you for watching👍🏼
Thank you! If the floor is level I would stick with doing it your way. That’s what I do. But if it’s in need of a scribe this method works well. Just make sure to seal the bottom. Thanks again👍🏼
Yeah I forgot to mention in the video to seal the bottom edge but I had already put it out when I realised. I would normally keep an uncut side down if the floor is level but if it’s out I use this way to scribe it
I also pva the bottom and since filming the video I have sealed it with some clear silicone. I should have mentioned that but completely forgot if I’m honest. As for cutting the bottom, I would prefer to cut the top of the panel if the floor is perfectly level but if it needs scribing to the floor the bottom has to be cut to match up with the floor. Thank you for watching👍🏼
I do have a handy little jig for doing wall panels. The only problem is I never really get chance to fit kitchens anymore. If one comes up I will try and make a video on it. Thanks for watching!
Wow, thanks a lot. I've never seen this method before, excellent stuff. I'm at the floor stage of conversion, and I'm definitely going to give it a go. What grade sand paper for the ply edges is the most suitable from your experience.
Thanks a lot for the comment. I have since got rid of my van and just have a car… keep thinking about getting a van to convert and I’m getting very tempted! Hope yours goes to plan! I can’t remember what I used exactly but for most things 80 and 120 grit covers most bases so I would recommend them. Thanks again👍🏼
Very nice…. But it doesn’t help when builders can’t do flat walls and floors….. 80% of the times I scribe panels, plastering is crap. Why do you sand edges after cutting!? And it’s a must to seal at least bottom edge. Water proof wood glue is the best
Thank for the comment! Doing it like this does actually scribe it to the floor. That’s why I sanded it. I cut it to the nearest points possible to my line then sanded any curves. I do also do that and then seal with clear silicone when the rest of them are done but completely forgot this part in the video😆 Thanks again👍🏼
Like some other comments. I’ve seen loads of videos on this but nothing as accurate and professional as yours. I’m still trying to work this method out but your work is outstanding! Thanks George
Thanks a lot! If there are bits you are unsure on I can try and explain it a bit better? It is a very useful method once you get the hang of it. Thanks again for the comment I appreciate it!👍🏼 @georgeshaw2607
