Simpawtico Dog Training is committed to bringing you creative and intelligent techniques to manage, motivate, and learn about our beloved canine family members.
Here you will find training tips and tutorials, product and book reviews, and oblique strategies you've never dreamed of. Our passion is to help you learn to communicate with your dog, expand your knowledge, and create real joy in your relationship with your pet.
Really great. 3 month old Aussie, we've been on the right track more or less - But we've been "protecting" our senior Lab (11 years) from our landshark; This video is terrific and reminded me that the absolute best teachers of bite inhibition are....other dogs with good bite inhibition. Bob (our Lab) is super patient but when he reaches his limit, he gives a good snarl and shows those pearly whites. She backs off and looks at him in stunned admiration. We'll be doing more of this! How did I not find you guys earlier???
I love this! Thank you. I’ll have to try this. My Yorkie is only 5lbs. She’s on Carna4 and only needs 1/8 cups a day. That’s not much kibble. It’ll be interesting to see if this will work with such a small amount of kibble in the Kong.
my adopted dog only poops when im not home or if im asleep or turn around. i crate her when i cant see her. she has np pooping in the crate. we go out the same times and eat the same times. a walk in the morning, after work, and in the evening. still nothing. i just wish shed go outside once. just once. its been 12 days of daily baths and full crate cleanings.
Thanks for this! It's amazing! I don't know if you'll see this, but I have a question: my puppy is very good at not biting my hands or my clothes, but tends to get really overexcited when I have a toy in my hand. He often misses the toy and bites my hand instead. I know he doesn't mean to, but how do I teach him to be careful then?
For me the best way to deal with that is to focus on how I'm presenting the toy. I want to make sure I'm presenting a clear bite surface and keeping my hands out of the way. This helps improve the skill of targeting (think of it like eye-mouth coordination). Always try to keep the toy perpendicular to the mouth; if you swing out or rotate and you thus move your hands in the way, well, that was on you. Of course, misses are inevitable, so some of the same feedback you use for the regular puppy biting will help with this too. For example, a yelp and stop play for 15 to 30 seconds will demonstrate how hitting you is an impediment to play. This tends to sew it up pretty quickly for most pups.
Maahh. Yummy Stuff, even own food, gets stuck in there and he can't get it out anyway and it's a waste. Did freeze smooth soup stock/broth inside so it defrosts and comes out and it's affordable too. But that's not very enticing on outside. Can smother outside with peanut butter but it's a lot of peanut butter if he has it regularly. Not too many ideas here but like the yoghurt idea frozen over the outside!!! With soup stock frozen inside.
As long as it's not frozen like a brick, almost right away. However, I'd advocate for hand feeding or forage feeding and waiting on a Kong perhaps until 18 weeks. You get a lot more relationship building and enrichment this way in that critical first few weeks with them.
Cool idea about kibble. I use plain peanut butter and carrots. The peanut butter is from a small shop that buys in bulk and repackages it for cheaper. Ingredients are JUST peanuts! No added oil or salt or sugar. It also doesn't have that nasty layer of oil on top. I put maybe 2 TBLS of it in the toy then take a long (not baby) carrot to block off the entrance. My dog ha to first pull out the carrot to get at the peanut butter. I often use carrots as treats because my dog isn't getting fed the "America diet." Killing your dogs with high carb and high calorie food then not giving them enough play time to run is NOT love! If your dog has to rotate side to side to walk he is fat......you created a fat dog. If the dog is old then a little fat is more explainable. However obese dog is animal abuse in my option.
I started fostering a nervous 8 month old pup who doesn't seem to be very food motivated. Does anyone have tips for how I can get her to enjoy the kong with her kibble in it? She doesn't like peanut butter or most other treats.
You might try some other work-to-eat projects that are easier to get into, like scatter feeds or forage-feeding. Check out this vid: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Xoud91onutY.html
What would you recommend when adopting a shelter's dog when you have 2 cats at home? One cat doesn't care about dogs, the other one is sensitive with any animal. How would you make them meet, what would be the restrictions for the dog or..everything (will also be a first time dog's owner)🙏✨
Yes, you are correct. Might I add that if the only thing you have to contribute is a "Look how smart I am" correction to content you chose to watch, you should piss off. At least have the courtesy to address the content. This isn't English class.
is he suggesting that if we use the dog's kibble, we need to be very carefully measuring it so we don't overfeed him, but if we use peanut butter, no need to count calories?
Hi, very late to the party but, Would you be willing to add to this video about some of experiences people have encountered when helping teach their puppy about ABI? After lots of comment reading it seems like this is normal: They get more riled up, go for other body parts, continuing to follw and bite, growl, lip lifting, the ow is ignored, lunging, harder bites, ect. Maybe repeat that this is new for puppy so they will of course be more excited when learning so be patient and consistent. And maybe add what to do if puppy clamps down on you instead of releasing you?
You are correct-I do keep getting the same questions, so it's likely time for an update. I can't add to this one since RU-vid doesn't allow it, so I'd have to make a new one. It's about time, though, so I'll put that in the production queue.
Thank you for your videos; they are always amazing. I have a question: How do you teach your dog that the "nope" marker has a negative connotation? My dog understands that "yes" is positive because she receives a reward after I use it. I assume she should understand that "nope" is negative because she doesn't receive a reward. However, sometimes I feel like she doesn't grasp the meaning of "nope".
It's mainly taught through repetitions and associations, just like the terminal and support markers. As you use them in every day and training situations your dog will come to understand what they mean (just like they learn what "Walk" means).
holy shit dudes, I just rescued some pitt mix puppies and one of them is so fearful and agressive! she simply doesn't know how to be with other dogs, and apparently she's 4 months old already so wish me luck! these tips are everything I needed right now thank you thank you thank you!
You can crank up the value of the food as a reinforcer if you also use it like a toy. See this video for more info: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZW0jqMLzcUQ.html
After struggling with how many channels teaching only 2 methods and my border collie still couldn't do it. She actually got confused and thinks down and sitting is the same thing. Now I have a dog that actually grasps it, and I also used the bridge technique to teach crawling. You got a sub and a like from me.
That can be tricky sometimes. Try to get your dog to start the down while they're walking toward you, so you may need to back up with the lure to get them moving.
@@SimpawticoDogTraining he can go down with a lure but when he’s doing it all the time n i say down with no lure he will not lay down only sit how do i go abt training him without always giving him a lure? xx
Environmental management is the best for this. Just manage and restrict access-and don't leave them unsupervised in these areeas-until you gotten through some of those developmental periods.
I use kongs, snuffle mats, slow feeders and puzzles to feed my doggos. I use a regular bowl when I feed them something messy and hard to clean, like cooked salmon, sardines, raw liver, raw gizzards, and other food. I don't want my doggos getting sick from leftover met residue on their hard to clean toys which is why I use the bowls. Sometimes I mix the meat with peanutbutter and plain greek yogurt, then I smear it on a silicone lick mat.
Thanks for much useful info. I'm a bit puzzled by the plush toy though, what is the dog supposed to do with it? Is it just to lie in their bed as a companion, or can they carry it about? Somehow I've missed that vital bit of info
I find that plush toys are the best when they're in the same "recreational category" as chew toys. I don't necessarily want them to chew up the toys, but if they use them for comfort and snuggling, I think that's great. If they're constantly shredding them, that's a dissection behavior that should probably be plugged into meal time. And…you didn't miss this info in the video; it should be in there, so it's probably time to update this video!
I have a pink Kong bone. There are holes in it to stuff treats or food into. Hard to get the goodies out but provides plenty of time for my Beagle pup to keep entertained. Plus it’s probably the ONLY thing she hasn’t been able to ruin !
That's a good indication that it's new to your puppy, and you need to DO IT MORE. As we said in the video, this can take WEEKS to get right. So, you have to keep applying. It's about consistent execution, not "one and done." Also, don't forget to get your puppy off-leash around other puppies and friendly older dogs. They will do this work way faster than humans, and you should do it ASAP. The other main thing is setting up the environment so your dog can't follow you. Puppies should have a very small universe, to begin with. This is partly to make your management easier and so you can move to where the puppy can't follow. Then, you establish a history of follow-through. Puppy bites, you say, "Ouch." If your puppy reels it in, praise and continue. If your puppy comes in again, say "OUCH!" If the puppy reels it in, praise and continue. If your puppy comes in again and/or gets too intense, you eject, dip out, bail. Play and interactivity completely stop. 60 seconds later, come back and try again. This won't work the 1st time or the 5th time. But by the 25th or 30th, the dots start to connect, and your puppy learns to reel it in when they hear "ouch" because they don't want you to leave. Now, they're learning how to develop self-control. Hope that helps!
@@SimpawticoDogTraining thanks so much! I have been stopping the engagement but I haven't been actually getting up and leaving the area. The first ow she gets more riled up and excited to bite me more lol. We've been trying to socialize her with my mother in law's 2 yr old Yorkie and often as we can and we have a 14 yr Yorkie mix but he's old and grumpy so they don't really play together. Thankfully she's great with the pressure. Pretty gentle when she knows she's biting skin but every now and then through the shirt or a misplaced finger when playing tug and I feel how hard she could be biting me 😜 Appreciate your advice, channel, tactics etc! You guys really are doing the furry lord's work 😁
