Hey, have you tested the 9mm mag converter? and is the built in mag ejector robust enough to not break after repeated use? and has it been decently reliable?
@andrewjarrett2769 yes, I tested it quite a bit with multiple uppers and bolt configurations. I've had an ejector break here and there. Shortest use was 2 rounds, longest use is over 1000. Pla was ok, petg a little better, pla+ so far lasts the longest. I'm working on an updated version but I keep getting side tracked. I'll get to it soon though.
@@jeffdill5260 Thanks for the clarification, i only have one pmag and I don't really intend to get more, so would it be fine to just print extra ejector/feedramp inserts in case something goes wrong at the range? Also, would this work for stanags? I'm pretty sure they have different geometry but they do seem fairly similar, just wondering if you think they'll work.
@andrewjarrett2769 I've made different versions for different mags. I had a usgi version, hex, pro mag, and a couple others. The pmag worked the best and wasn't a permanent change. And I would print a couple feedramp/ejector sets just in case. Pla+ printed on the hotter side (200-210) gave me the best results.
@davidnickname4149 I have not. It's a time consuming process that I don't know how to convert into something the average diy-er can do. But I'm still working on methods to harden them that can be done in the average garage.
Everytime somebody does the legal way and tries to be lagit like submitting a form one to build a solvent trap silencer or in this case a 3d printed supressor. People this is what gives the government the idea to ban these type of things. Doing things the right way in that regaurd and being a law abiding citizen is only rewarded with punishment on the law abiding citizen and the whole 2nd ammendment community. Its almost like youre outing these things that are kind of a discressionaly unsaid loophole type situation. I know thats not peoples intention but thats all thats gonna happen any time you involve "them" in an item simular to these. Like the solvent trap, how many people have you heard say they got their form one to make a legal supressor. Now the atf has people officialy admitting that they are turning them into supressors when thats not what the company stated was their intended use. Its like outing them directly to the government. So of course the atf is gonna acknowledge and ban them. Keep legaly 3d printing supressors and the more people do it the more the atf is gonna see how many people are capable of doing it and how accessible it is and they are gonna ban 3d printers all together. Like cmon theres a good thing and then people who are unintentionally being the teachers pet in a way are gonna ruin it for everybody. I myself in no way shape or form condone doing anything illegal but i can garuntee you if alot of people start sending in form ones to print supressors its gonna ruin the whole 3d printed industry. Just think about it, theres no reward with them in doing right theyll just turn around and take from the law abiding citizen. If you want something like a supressor the rule should be if you dont have the cash to buy a commercialized one legaly then just dont do it or dont submit a form one on anything that can be turned into one. Why help take away everybodys rights just because you think you are doing the right thing. I dunno just my opinion. But i do like your print and respect the effort you put into it and think its really amazing i just dont agree with turning these into a legaly submitted type item. Once again just my opinion from what ive observed
The difference between you printing your own on a form1, and me transferring it on a form4 is about 14 months. That's it... You pay $200 either way, and that's what makes it legal or not. You can get an approved form1 in 30-40 days. Form4s take forever. That's a big reason people choose form1 over form4. Solvent traps were never an exception to a legal definition of suppressors. A single baffle is a suppressor. It's got nothing to do with how easy it was to make. It's a suppressor from an unlicensed manufacturer who did not record the suppressor in their assets and did not/could not legally transfer said suppressor on a form2 or form4. Opinion letters from the atf don't mean anything. Countless ppl are in jail because an atf opinion letter said X was ok. Same with solvent traps. Ignore opinion letters, they are useless. Statutes and reg codes are all the matter. I agree with not poking the bear, but creating one the legal way, is not going to get 3d printers outlawed. It's just another way to do the same thing that's been done since the 1930s. Whether I agree with the law or not, I can not advocate doing something unlawful in public, on youtube. Everyone is free to make their own decisions so proceed accordingly.
@@jeffdill5260 have you seen the news stories already on 3d printed guns? I see it all happening like with the p80s and all the other things they took away from us. First it makes it's rounds all over social media and people making countless videos on RU-vid about it then it makes the news then within a couple years the government has banned that item or put certain laws on them. I dunno if they will ban 3d printers but I see them putting restrictions on it like only selling them to certain businesses or you need to have some kind of credentials to have one something like that I dunno I'm not sure what they will do but i do know its too much freedom to have in their eyes. I do believe they are trying to take away our right to bear arms and anything that can help us create our own firearms which is legal without the intent to sell in most places as we all know if you are legally allowed to own a firearm. I dunno man I see the ARs being taken away alot of things being taken from us it's crazy the world we live in today this stupid alphabet agency can say whatever they want and have it come true most the time. And for the most part it's only effecting the guy who's following the law. Which is the really sad part because criminals don't care about gun laws. It's messed up the good people have to pay for doing the right thing. I myself am one of those people who believe in doing things the right way. But I live in Cali and it's freaking gotten ridiculous out here. The question is when it gets blatantly unlawfull and they slowly start taking our firearms away and it becomes illegal to own one period then what does the law abiding citizen do? Anyways I respect your opinion have a good day
Nice strong damping. I experienced something similar when I bought my anvil, it would ring just from tapping with finger nails. I built a stand of Oak including an insert into the frog then glued it all down with Sikaflex. Once set the ringing wasn't detectable by my old ears. I'm sure it is less hassle for the neighbours.
No, as far as I knew the rdb didn't need any changes. But the non rdb is getting some updates to use a metal ejection tab. If the rdb does need some changes let me know!
@@jeffdill5260 I got confused in one of the forums. So far I've printed 3 or the rdb version and haven't had any feeding issues from the small amount I've used each. Thank you so much for the great work!
As long as you can print nylon carbon fiber filament you can make a printed can with any kind of printer…. Long as you can successfully print carbon fiber…
So, theres a lot of complainers posting on other videos about how this just wont work. Well its still up there, its been up for over 3 years now. No guy wires and has a 6el yagi, a 5el yagi, and a jpole on it. It works just fine, and has even made it through a small tornadoe and numerous high wind storms. If you missed the other updates I gave on this mast, I can't help it. It works, and works well.
There is metal threaded insert in the muzzle end for attaching to the barrel. The print is regular pla, I have used petg before but I've found pla works best for the rest of the manufacturing process.
Hey Jeff. I can't find the contact button to shoot you an e-mail. I wanted to know if you can make me an AR30 stock adapter, or maybe sell me your old AR30 adjustable stock. I have a Gen 1 and am not happy with the stock
@jeffdill5260 Thank you for putting this together. I printed a set and was able to put it all together and went to test and my bolt got caught up on the ears and broken them off. I have a KG Raider 9mm 11" Upper w\ BCG. I need to do some more tollerance testing with my prints. Would you upload the STEP\SLDPRT file to the repository, sure would make it easier to make changes. I use OnShape for my modeling. Thanks and really appreciate all your work and willing to give out your design.
cant wait to see the "how to" on the hardening. I will be using it for all kinds of my 3D prints, not sure if i'll ever make a can, but if its that tough, I'll use it for functional parts around the shop!
I did get it to work, but the manufacturing process is complicated and effectively became as complex as making one from metals. That in addition to very little commercial interest, I shelved this one and the larger caliber center fire designs. Just not enough interest to justify the time and effort in the research.
Thanks for a great video! Very informative. Your formula/recipe is pretty close to a German machine tool company's (forget which) formula: 30% granite gravel (aka "Decomposed Granite"), 30% joint sand, 30% fine quartz sand, and 10% Epoxy. Home Depot or Lowe's has everything, possibly the Epoxy as well. Joint sand has a polymer sand in it. I like the idea of adding the glass media that you are using. The granite gravel should be washed and dried, but probably unnecessary. I was trying to find crushed Feldspar as it is an extremely hard stone, but probably unnecessary. I am planning a CNC mill capable of 500X-500Y-100Z, primarily for aluminum. I see also that you have minimal structural elements in the cast. From what I've learned this is a much better approach than welding up or bolting an underlying framework for the machine. Apparently, that actually weakens the cast.
I'm glad it was helpful. I have a big tub sink that I used to wash the gravel on. Put screen wire over the drain, dumped gravel in, and washed it well. Then, spread it out in a sheet metal table and warm it with a propane blower. I did the same with the sand, but it was much longer dry times. I found that 'filter' sand actually comes clean in the bag and started using that. It was also a slightly finer grain sand. I think it's mostly used for swimming pools.
6:50 Government has no right to tell anyone what they can or can't make or have. You playing their game makes you the criminal just like them. Sad thing it's never psychopaths like you getting their kids shot in the face by the pedolice
First, not psychopath. Second, you do whatever floats your boat. I'm not going to advocate others commit a felony and spend time in prison because you disagree. I gave information to follow current law. If you don't want to follow the law, then dont.
Yea, I used to for people without a printer. I'm working on an updated version, tho that should last forever. I'll post an update video. Should have it ready in a few more days.
@@jeffdill5260 Did you ever get a new version up and running? Also I am guessing there isnt a last round hold open. How hard would it be to model that in if at all?
@jerebediah last round hold open works like normal. I have an update version I've done some basic testing on but I put it on hold for other stuff at the moment.
@@jeffdill5260 Im trying this out and printed it bambu lab 98% infil PLA+ in 30 round pmags. However it doesnt lock into lower without using all my might to get it seated. Is there something Im doing wrong ? where are the updated files ?
There are 2 versions. One for 9mm blowback with the ejector in the magazine. Another for 9mm blowback with the ejector in the bolt. 9mm case heads will not fit in a 5.56 bolt face, so a 9mm bolt or modified 5.45 bolt is required.
It's not really a poi shift. It's a random shot placement from shot to shot that moves several inches, even a foot in any random direction, depending on distances.
@@jeffdill5260 That would most likely be caused by the tunnels in the can. Especially since it's so random. Also, why no clip in any of the baffles? Not only does it improve suppression but also improves the accuracy as the gas is vented off the face of the cone the same way & introduces more turbulence in the suppressor.
It doesnt matter if the baffles are clipped or unclupped, the rigidity of the suppressor body allows it to flex at its mounting point enough that you cannot always predict where poi will be from shot to shot. You can 3d print internals and put them in a steel tube, and have reasonable accuracy from shot to shot. Typically, you could expect the same group sizes with/without the suppresor. Put just a 3d printed suppressor on, fresh off the printer and the poi shift will be substantial from shot to shot.
github.com/shooter64738/pics There's a 10,20,30 rnd version, and there's a 16mm spacer you can print to run a standard buffer and keep the bolt from over traveling. I'm also working in a newer version that uses a metal ejector tab. So far it seems to last forever.
If there was a steel adapter that doubled as a blast chamber, would that help the non-treated suppressor stay more stiff? For example; 1/2x28 to 1.375x24 with a cylindrical blast chamber, then the suppressor would attach into the 1.375 threads.
I really hope that one day they get rid of the stupid suppressor regulations. A standard rifle round like a .308, through a suppressor, is still as loud as a jackhammer bouncing on concrete - the narrative that suppressors will allow people to discharge firearms in the commission of crimes and the person ten feet away won't even realize a gun went off is ludicrous. If a suppressed gun is fired it still sounds like a gunshot and is still loud like a gunshot. You and everyone around you will know a gun went off. In an indoor shooting range, even with Peltors and those foam rubber ear plugs behind them, a shorter-barreled 5.56 or other high velocity rifle fired with a break from the stall beside you is so loud even through the earpro you'd get the impression it wasn't healthy. That's one of the things suppressors could help with tremendously - suppressors are a public health thing.
This awesome. How many minutes did you do the heat treat for? I have other parts I 3D print for houseboats that under go heat and have been looking into heat treating.
How do you go about heat treating prints anyway? Get a cheap toaster oven, set it at the hottest temperature you can that doesn't droop the item, and let it bake for a bit?
