I’m a British IFMGA guide based in Chamonix France. I love to make videos about my skiing, climbing, paragliding and mountain biking exploits and share them here. I’m also somewhat of a gear and technique geek and like to talk about equipment and how to get the best out of it and how to do things better in the mountains.
Being an IFMGA mountain Guide I am qualified to take you skiing and climbing in glaciated alpine terrain anywhere in the world. You can learn more about my guiding on my website: www.davesearleguiding.com/
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Hey good video! I have a question...I usually put the harness on first and then the backpack. But your shoulder straps are over the backpack, did you put it on first? Best regards, Tom!
One of the uses of the duel connect adjust suggested by Petzl is creating a quickly equalized anchor. Do you see any benefit to carrying the duel in a glacier environment for this reason?
Nice idea for a quick stop and to ensure that the second one is guided. Your pas connection to the sling isn't really visible from the camera so I was at first confused about your own safety.
Long swinging fall across sharp rocks with seemingly no pro in between from a non redundant anchor? It's kinda everything I was taught not to do, especially the anchor.
@@ceecadventure7599 the top person is rappelling off some bolts so has no chance to fall off. The sling is to give them a short belay once they are bellow and need to traverse across. The sling would never see a shock load as you are suggesting. Well done for questioning it though as if you don’t fully understand something it’s good to get clarification. Best wishes.
Would there ever be a use for the heavier Khroma Latok shell in ski mountaineering? Rab seems to market it as an all purpose ski shell that'll do resort and backcountry adventures, but it does seem chunky.
He was about to say something about it not being tight, if you were to unscrew a bit to have it facing where you want to use it. Can you elaborate on if that matters or not? Btw I know this is an old vid, hope you still can reply to my question though! Love the vids keep em up!
It doesn’t matter if it’s tight or not. Or but it this way, if it’s tight hut the hanger is pointing in the wrong direction and the load would tighten it more that would be worse. Better to back it off half a turn.
Dave, nice, this is helpful. Are you about 180cm tall? Maybe a bit less? You're also lean. I'm just comparing to myself, and maybe what I like and should or should not be skiing. I'm always looking and learning. Thanks man!
Cool video, thank you,I bought the petzl connect adjust with two strands for exactly this as a rappel extension, but after using it for a few years, this year I cut the shorter one off, I realized it wasnt worth it to have it just for rappeling and not use it for anything else, so for weight saving and space saving I use a sling as a rappel extension, cool you pointed out the dissadvantages of using a leg loop, will tell my friends some use the leg loop
IIRC your flemish bend is dressed in the wrong orientation; It supposedly holds better, when each ropes figure eight is the one closest to the other ropes standing end. (stacked similarly to a fisherman's bend, if that makes more sense😅)
First of all congrats on your awesome content. I'm a newbie and wanted to ask you about the use of the petzl reverso with the rad rope, as my understanding was that the reverso only admitted ropes of 8.5mm diameter and larger. Thanks a lot!
Not super easy to understand in a short video but i think that this is the goal. "Pushing" users to replay the video, engaging comments and discussion is part of a content-creator life/job/hobby. I'll play the game and try to understand! Beal escaper as the main ancor point, backed up by the red sling. Your atc is connected to the beal escaper, in a way similar as you would using a sling to lower your client when using it in guide mode (and your client couldn't unload the atc). When your client has reached the next anchor/lower point the rope is already connected to the beal escaper and you only have to rappel down.
The hair beta for long hair and climbing is to do a french brade and where a upf 50 sun hoodie to protect your hair from the many hair hazerds of climbing including sun damage to hair, tangles and getting cought on stuff like carabineers scrub oak bushes ropes slings excetra
There are a couple of ways to use that loop but this is actually smoother and easier. Using a carabiner in the loop sometimes you can’t find one that fits and it’s very tiring lowering a long way just pushing up on a carabiner. Same sort of problems with girth hitching a sling through it and lifting the plate up, not that easy and can be a bit sketchy too imo. This is a lot better and it’s releasable too so if you need to stop and go back to pulling someone up you can. This also works better with two ropes and two seconds as you can just do this on one rope and leave the other tied off.
@@DaveSearle nice, I have to try this. I've always had a trouble to girth hitch a sling through the loop on new Reverso. Btw. what do you think of lowering with munter instead of prusik? Does it make any difference? Thanks
@@lb259 A munter would twist the rope up alot. You are still lowering with the device in this situation. The autoblock is a backup tool here not holding the load.
Impossibly stupid question: why would you want to do this? When is it advantageous to go this route, rather than simply lowering off your harness with a redirect after having your follower clip into the belay? Is this for mid-pitch lowers? Retreating without getting your partner to rappel?
Yeah you're quite right , but that white loop will be put to the leg and your body Loop harness .not to the Central loop harness! Because 2 is 1, one is none! Are you talking about all the chain of safety: if you can remove one of the point of the chaine of you will do it! The main harness loop sometimes can be break.
Disagree with everything you just said. One reported case of a belay loop failing on a very old and worn harness. Rappelling you generally generate way less than 2kn which is 10% of what most belay loops can handle. If you don’t trust the gear loop get a new harness that you do trust. If you still don’t trust it, it’s time to quit climbing.
I almost exclusively use the Triple-T-Overhand knot: easy to tie, very secure (doesn't need long tails), yet easy to open (even after being loaded hard), doesn't get stuck easily AND works with differing rope diameters. Search "Dreifacher T-Kreuzschlag" to see how to tie it.
Hi Dave, thanks for the informative videos. Still wondering how I feel about my own connect adjust and this vid helps the love, or lack of. I am intrigued by that "girth-hitch-able" quick draw, can't find it anywhere. Looks like petzl made it, but not on their US website? How I can get a hold of some, they may be perfect for replacing old tat on my some of my ancient cams. Thanks!!! Ivan
You mentioned the flat figure 8 bend rolls at 0.6kn, is that strength if not properly dressed or dressed and stressed? I'm curious about the knot's strength in both cases
As I remember, the "edk" was so named because it would roll significantly lower than the breaking strength of the rope on slow pull tests, moreso than any actual deaths. I originally learned to rappel on the double fisherman bend, a super solid knot, but more prone to jamming or being hard to pull over an edge. Switched to the edk, but i do dress it carefully and leave long tails. Haven't died yet...
Out of curiosity, if the knot were to start rolling open while you were standing there next to it, what would you have done? Could you keep it from rolling open using just your bare hands? Hopefully not a situation anyone would find themselves in.
I think pulling hard on the tails would have helped stop it from rolling. I would have certainly tried! I also thought I could have put a prusik around the ropes and clipped it to the anchor.
@@DaveSearle Brake knots for 2 man teams on glaciers as recommended by ENSA. If there's going to be a knot in the middle I figure it's best that it applies some friction to the lip of the crevasse. We usually travel with 2x 30m 6mm Mammut Glacier cords.
I have also experimented with many gloves, but still dont always get it right. strangely enough, two layers of fleece gloves, for me was a srprisingly good and very cheap solution for many things. the outer layer was more robust on the exterior, so fairly long lasting (I have no idea what brand it was). I could climb with it in not too technical climbs (like AD level mountaineering). they were also quite warm if both were worn (was perfectly ok well below freezing), could also ski with them. Of course they were not water proof.
