Kettle Moraine Meadows is a small farm/homestead in south east Wisconsin. Here we show some of the projects we work on every week. Follow us as we raise chickens and rabbits, grow in the garden and the fields, work on tractors and other equipment, can, preserve, and cook vegetables and meats, and anything else that happens along the way. We hope you enjoy watching the videos we share as much as we enjoyed making them.
Hello, I know this is an old post but I'm hoping you can help me. I did the same thing to my Allis d17 and now my power steering is not working. When I start the engine the wheels jerk back and forth and then turn to one side an stick there. What have I done wrong? Thank you for any help you can offer!
@@KettleMoraineMeadows I used a 3/8 x 8 " carriage bolt, 2 ,1/8" thick washers , Approx 1 & 1/4 " This allows to cover the portion under the carriage bolt head. End of guide did not Touch that. Meaning it is not necessary to ream. The other end of bolt gets 3 large washers , this covers the valve opening ad 1small washer 1 reg hex nut and start turning . I had all new guides And super clean holes. Started guides using small plastic Mallote, tighting, Than a when getting hard to turn Nut, used a brass 2 # hammer, 2 gentle taps , than turning nut again. Getting long winded With this. All went well Thks for your response Dan
My crank pulley has a chunk broke. Tried to remove and just realized it wont come off without removing the front end. Ugh, dont have an engine hoist, or crate. I should probably pull the engine and replace the clutch at the same time since the engine removal is juat one more step to acces it.
On my 57 D17, I simply made a mount to run my pump directly off the front of the crank. It’s just a plate to mount the pump, with a couple of spacers to bolt the plate to the steering bolster. I just had to make up a short shaft to go between the pump and the crankshaft to drive the pump. I’m running a Kelley loader that came off an A-C 170. A couple of pieces of angle mount the oil tank and valve on the right side of the loader frame, with a spin on oil filter on the outlet of the tank.
Good vids - info. helped a lot. i'm just starting a re-build on a 59' d-14. Question : i can't find exact replacements for the O-rings that are in the steering components . Do you, by chance, have the replacement part #'s?
This is awesome, thank you for showing it off. I have an older D17 too and want to install an external hydraulic system that runs a loader and rear remotes. I am not sure how to mount the pump, whether it be mounted on the front and driven off the crank via a shaft or have it belt driven on the side like yours. Do you have any belt slip? Do you have a pressure relief valve in your system somewhere? I would love to know more.
Thanks Miles! Ok pressure release valve is internal on the pump. Belt slip: Yes and no. I had trouble with it at first (and broke a belt with my post hole auger all the way down in a hole) Lately hasn't been an issue. I had to adjust it, try a few different belts before I found what worked. When I do a total restore on this tractor, I'm planning on switching to some sort of chain drive, maybe mounted on the old single groove style crank pulley. I don't know yet. But for the time being, the belt is working well, just not sure if it would hold up as well as a chain over time. The reason I didn't go with a crank mount is I hate seeing the pump sticking out the front (my design looks kinda stock) and it's in a great spot for me to smash it.
Back story is my wife bought it for me as a birthday present. Ran a little rough. We used it for some light work around the farm a handful of times for the remainder of the season, and on the last day, she finally gave up. Good timing I suppose.
@@KettleMoraineMeadows I use that Christmas & birthday thing to help with leverage to get a tractor from 1939-54 that I think at the time I just gotta have then later find out all the problems it may have . Other times the wife oks it jsut because I come up with the fact that somebody just added all these new parts of something like that
I've heard about those shims from someone at the action where I purchased the Allis C . He said the crank needed those taken out. Your video is the first time I now realize what they where talking about. It's a tractor an old guy had in a Tabaco shed , that he brought to a consignment sale. Hasn't been used in a long time . I drove it with in 7 miles of home valve stem on rear tire caused me to haul it the rest of way. but it ran. steering loose . Now years have gone by , but watching Allis C engine rebuild video's, now I know there is some pain in the but stuff O-rings on the sleeves etc.. Maybe I'll only have to do the crank. but it's cool how you took the engine and put it in a engine stand. Back to the video. Your doing a good job, taking us through the rebuild thks
Yeah, I know how it goes with making videos for sure. Glad to hear you snuck into the egg market. I have so many people at work that want them there is literally a wait list. Im sure if I get more chickens (mind you I just sold 40 this last year) for this influx, I will have more eggs than I know what to do with as people will stop buying by the time they start laying.
Haha I gotta ask do they bite hard? Also I see the ISO tunes. Worth it or not? Ive been eyeballing them for more time than I care to admit lol Bought the cheapos off amazon and they arent too bad for $20
You'd have to ask Joanne, they haven't but me... yet lol. Ther ISO Tunes are well worth it. Only problem is I cannot find them. I think they were well worth the money.
Hey I picked up a series 1 a couple months ago, as well as an old shaver post driver for a 3 point (my series 1 has the 3 point conversion). the guy I got the driver from told me I really need a big return to sump line so that the driver can dump the oil back fast enough to let the driver gravity drop and not be slowed down by the oil going through the smaller return hose. My neighbor told me he thought I could just take the big return hose coming back from the driver and stick it in the hydraulic oil fill port where the dipstick is and then take it out when I'm done with the driver. I'm not super talented like you are with tractors, so I want a solution (for now anyway) that'll work but without too much modification. Does it work to just plug the intake hose for the driver into the remote connector above the transport valve and stick the return line in the fill port? I don't have the selector valve by the way. Does that mean that the 3 point ram arms will always be all the way up when I want the driver to be lifted? thank you
Sorry for not getting back sooner. I took a little break from the RU-vids. As for the driver, your plan should work, but be sure to hold the end of the hose to the fill port, or else the pressure will blast it out of the tank. Unfortunately I believe with the valve setup you described the lift arms will pick up each time.
I have the Jensales reprint of the original service manual. Couldn't live without it. www.jensales.com/products/allis-chalmers-service-manual-ac-s-d17.html
Great video. I have two pole sheds that are in about the same condition as yours was. In researching PermaColumns, I can across your series. I'm in South Central Wisconsin and next summer I may be tackling my shed in the same way as you did yours.
Thank you! Well from what I've read and heard around the internet, the originals were made from what is very similar to plain old 6061. So that's what I used.
I was fortunate enough my parts tractor didn't have large cracks, One minor one I didn't see until cleaning it very well. This video got me thinking, do you think it's possible to bolt the cleaned head down without a gasket and measure clearance between head and block with a feeler gauge to see if it is flattening the deck out?
Was there a screen in the pick up tube? My CA engine in my B had one. mine didn't have tie wire or locking tabs on rear seal housing either. What year is yours? Just curious of why the difference. If you want to see what the pick-up tube screen looks like you can see it in my video @ 17 min in the video below ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gC36ZYwGLcg.html
Nice videos. Glad to see details like this. I started documenting my restoration last year because of the lack of available info on the B&C. Wish this was around back when I first started researching my build. keep it up sir!
There are aftermarket sandwich pumps that can be mounted between the drive and dist. You need a delco dist that has a 90 degree angle and the cap is vertical. or use a short Fairbanks Morse magneto.
I think I know the one you're talking about, might be thinking of a different pump. The thing that makes me nervous about putting a newer style pump on an older model of the tractor is it can cause the timing gear to wear out. There's a similar issue to running a loader off the power steering pump on my Allis.
@@KettleMoraineMeadows Yes there have been instances where the drive gears failed. The problem is caused by using the 30 weight non detergent hyd oil like recomended for the hyd belly pump. In cold weather that 30 weight become's thick as tar! If you use thinner hy tran and install a high flow filter on the return line it works fine. Im thinking of removing the oil filter and installing a flat metal plate there, then plumbing two 90 degree fittings and run lines to a remote spin on oil filter. That way it would give extra room to mount a sandwich pump. And I could use a less costly engine oil filter.
Interesting. That makes sense about the oil. I do miss that M a little bit, but I'm pretty happy with the D17 I bought too. Wound up doing an equally involved project to put a loader on that machine.
Good work Guv'ner :) - nice looking bracket for sure. You're running it with a V belt yeah? Do you have a pump that doesn't mind a side load? I have a project coming up putting a loader on an old kubota and I can tee in to the pto hydraulics but always figured a live drive is best (until you get a severe leak or run dry which means you can't use the engine). Most live drives I have seen are coupled off the front pulley but I know you can get some V belt driven ones for trucks etc that have a mag clutch like an A/C compressor. Keen to see it go "live" 😁
Yep V belt. I went against the pump bolted right up to the crank pulley because I was worried about smashing it into something. With this design, it's safe under the hood. The downside is the possible belt slippage and side loading the pump. This pump is really beefy for the application. Originally I had designed a bracket to go around the pulley and support it from the the other side, taking a lot of load off the pump. But I think this pump is not going to have a problem with it. Good luck with your Kubota!
I must have missed a video. Did you decide the uneven deck height is going to be OK? I checked all my clearances and ring gap too. Probably unnecessary, but better safe than sorry I guess.
HI hope to help you!! you have centered the rods on the pistons wrong!! the crank shaft is offset from the center of the cylinder! to center the rod properly you move the rod and piston pin to the side of the offset. it will move back a little when you install it and the wrist pin wont drag on the cylinder !!! they make two big scores up and down the liners. it has been a few years since i have touched one of these engines. good luck WES
@@wesdoupe6391 Thanks Wes! You're right I screwed up on the piston pins. I knew the Rods were offset on the crankshaft, never occurred to me that the bores weren't inline with the crank.
