My channel is my first attempts to share video and photos which reflect my main interests. These are: Photography, bird and wildlife photography and model aircraft. I have amassed a large collection of photos over the years and have just started video photography as a new challenge. I am helped by my wife Avril, who has fantastic eyesight and who keeps me in order! We hope you enjoy!
There's a man who knows how to enjoy himself. Nothing more satisfying than seeing your hand-built model actually doing it's stuff. As a kid, I loved it and have just started again. You are lucky to have a decent field not built on by some house building company. I am wondering what the round tank is in some of the shots. Looks ominously like the sort of tank they have on sewage works. Wouldn't be a good place to land.
Hi This is just a local farmer's field and funny you should talk about the tank... The day ended with the Model inside a United Utilities compound on top of the tank. Dave went back later and met a man who retrieved the model for him. So no models were hurt during this outing! Thanks for the interest.
Hi Thanks for the message. Your request is a bit tricky to answer. I don't know what experience you have of building ultra lightweight indoor models and I don't know if you belong to an indoor club where you might get some help. It is a bit like having a driver ask how to become a leading Formula One driver! Josh Finn has made a lot of really useful You Tube videos (ru-vid.comvideos ) which you might look at and I've made a step-by-step video of covering in indoor film. You would be working with really thin wood (my 18" dia prop outlines are .023" sq , my motor stick is rolled .013" thick wood and the18" tailboom even thinner at .009" taper boom). If you don't have these experiences yet, I would suggest buying a "Penny Plane" kit (available on the web) as a first step to gaining skills and move onto an F1M kit (The beginner F1D class, weight 3gm). Then you can work towards buildng an F1D (1.4gm complete with a variable pitch prop mechanism). I will try in the next few weeks to put together a video which discusses the skills and equipment needed to make ultra lightweight models. It is a learning process where you have to learn how to deal with very thin wood, how to cut and wind rubber motors and and how to handle F1D models . For example If you walk too fast, the wing will fold! I don't want to put you off as seeing your own model fly is amazing, but it will take commitment over a long time. Cheers Tom
Hi Robert. If you leave an email address on this comments page, I'll send you the .pdf as an attachment. The other option is to go to www.norwind.org.uk/ which I used to co run. on the plans page, you will find a .jpg of pipit. click on it for the full size jpg and save it/export it to .PDF.
Hi If you go to www.norwind.org.uk/ you will find the plan on the plans page. Hope you enjoy it. This is a nice model to fly. Mine is many years old and still flies out of the box! Cheers Tom
Thanks for the pictures Tom, your composition is great. Lovely colours also, what do you use? I have always found the DeHavilland Rapide a most beautiful aircraft after seeing it in an early bond film think it was. I will look up this show and visit, thx again :)
Thanks for the niice comments.glad you enjoyed the video. Looks really good if played on large screen TV! It was a really good day and I've only captured the flavour of it. It was a bit too windy for the pioneer aircraft to fly, but that can be for another time and another You Tube! I do a lot of landscape/ wildlife/ bird photography and I use a Nikon D500 plus an 18-300 Dx lens for aircraft.The D500 has fabulous autofocus. I have a bigger birding lens, but it isn't zoom.The 18-300 is lighter and more flexible and nearly as sharp! At 80 years, I'm finding lighter is better! Just added a Nikon Z6 mirrorless FX which has the advantage that what you see through the viewfinder is exactly what reaches the sensor, so you can judge focus and exposure better. I shoot in RAW which allows better post shoot adjustment (at the expense of using up hard disk space).
@@tomtflyer9127 I also use a Z6 the technology is amazing now :) Love a Nikon. Just watched your applying the skin to a wing video, was a coincidence that vid appeared as i was thinking about when i tried to do that on a remote control glider back in the 70's, Have a fun day mate. Will watch you other videos :)
If I remember correctly, those are called Spencer Wells forceps, I suppose one can use a pair of pointy nose pliers and a helper . Thank you for showing us your method and I shall use it from now on.
Hi, Mike Woodhouse in the UK sells this kit and he knows the manufacturer. If you mail him, he is a very helpful guy mike@freeflightsupplies.co.uk. You might like his website www.freeflightsupplies.co.uk/. Hope this helps.
@@rogerjoesbury9410 This is the bit you have to cut and try for yourself! What I can tell you is that my rubber spring is a 2.75" loop of .025" wide Tan Sport rubber. It needs less than you think, but the band has to be stretched hard. You have to match it with the tail band. If the tail band is too strong, the DT can't pull the tail flat firmly enough. Too weak and the pop up isn't good enough. I just played around with differnt combination until I found one which worked. One tip.. I used a micro safety pin as the joiner on the rear end of the DT line, so I could do quick changes of different loops . Hope this helps.
Good morning Tom. Having just found your video I very much enjoyed it. I have now subscribed and will play catch-up on your other videos. Thank you for sharing. Terry
Thanks foe the comments Terry. I put a sort video when I think that I have something interesting or useful to share. My next one will probably be an Excel sheet showing how to determine max and safe turns per inch for rubber motors. I've written the sheet, but am in the process of testing it at competitions.
Hi John DT stands for dethemaliser. It is a deviice to stop models flying away when caught in a warm air updraught. I had one glider which was found 25 milesaway a long time ago!
Beautiful. Don't know which prop you're using, but I wish I could carve a large, balsa, slow prop. I got a Senator kit and the weird thing is I have to mount wings about 2inches off center (to left I think), to get balanced circular flights. Otherwise I get death spirals to the ground. Happy flying!
Have you seen the good You Tube by Josh Finn on easy prop carving? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RdRyDclOtuQ.html Don't want to teach my granny to suck eggs if you are experienced and know what you are doing.. Sounds like you have something seriously wrong with either side thrust or warps/twist in wing/tail/fin. The Senator is a docile model if built to plan and shouldn't need any wing offset. I trim my model to fly right with no rudder and 1/16" right side and downthrust. Start with very low turns and concentrate on a nice consistent turning circle using 1/32" packing under the trailing edge of the tail, increasing until it is a nice flat circuit. If you can't get that, it might mean that you have side thrust in one direction fighting a wing warp in the other. Check that your fuselage is straight. If the CG is too far back, it can make a model very unstable. Check on the plan Just some guesses without seeing the model
Spencer Willis kits are top notch. He also does custom propellers that are the best. This P30 is very competitive, and not just a beginners model. I have recently bought the very cheap BMK radio dt. Faultless so far and ideal for competition or flying in a restricted area like a park or Old Warden.
Thanks Jim. I have installed a button damper DT which gives up to about 6 mins after a bit of fiddling with different spring strengths/lengths. The damper is the same button kind used to damp kitchen unit drawers (ACE FRT-E2-100 +50°C 0°C 10, Tooth 6mm, P.C.D 0.1±0.05Ncm). I adapt a rubber prop nose bobbin as the drum.
I wind Kevlar thread around the nose to stop splitting. I suspect tissue is not enough. Difficult to see if the prop was freewheeling. The supplied prop may be a bit heavy. Gizmo geezer units are what I use in P30. Great video. You need a dt. P30s have a strong desire to fly away. Subscribed for more videos.👍
Thanks Jim. Already have DT installed (see my reply on an earlier video). Unfortunately Covid and rotten weather cut short my outdoor activity, but looking forward to getting back out when possible. Lost my local field as the Council has banned all model flying on their public land... I had a Banshee woman come screaming out at me that I could kill children! I suspect that she just didn't want anyone spoiling the view from her lounge window. I suggested a football might do more damage and that she could look up the word "community"!
@@me262a1 Thanks for the comment. I have been able to return to indoor freeflight flying since Covid lockdown ended. I co-run an indoor group of about 30 fliers who fly all types of models from Peanut Scale to F1D ultralight duration models.I fly mainly F1D, F1M, Penny Plane, Osprey and Bostonian. I'm building a 1.5m electric RC glider for Spring and I have my P30, Senator and Competitor to fly on thse magic calm days, providing I can find a new field....
Hi Colin If you mail me via the contact page on the NORWIND site: www.creativesweb.co.uk/norwind I can put together a plan for you. My plan is just a working one for me and I''m a bit busy to find time to do a proper one. Hope this helps Cheers Tom
Hi Tom, was wondering if you could let me know where l can get a copy of your lovely “Osprey” indoor model I can’t seem to find it anywhere on the net, any information would be great.
Hi Colin, The model is a development of my "Pipit" design which can be found on the NORWIND website www.creativesweb.co.uk/norwind I only have it as a rough drawing, but I'll try to find time to produce something workable and post it soon.
I fly a 200% scaled up Senator on a little outrunner motor and mini RC ( Rudder only ) . I think it actually flies slower than your rubber powered one .
Sounds great! The rubber weighs quite a lot in a Senator and the aim is to get it to climb fairly quickly to pick up some lift. So wing loading may well be higher in the original version than yours. You also have the advantage of less drag from the much smaller prop. I use a thinner rubber motor in mine which gives a longer, slower climb. Comes from having a mainly indoor duration background! Still not sorted a DT system which I like. The damper works fine , easily up to 4 mins or so, but don't like chopping into the original design which would give a tip up tail. Tip up wing too complicated and I operate the KISS (keep it simple) approach. Less to go wrong.
The problem seems to be the C of G being too far forwards: I.e.: the model is nose heavy, as can be seen from the initial nose- down glide. The heavy nose is why the tail incidence has to be over-raised, to compensate for the nose heaviness. It is this excessive incidence which then causes the stall. Try shifting the C of G a bit back (only a bit), and re-trim. See then if it solves the stall problem. Cheers!
Hi Jay, That would miss the point! The whole thing is about replaying our flying in the 1950's and 60's (1958 in my case). A hand drill was THE essential item (Lithium batteries not invented yet!) and hearing the gears crank is like smelling something which brings back nice memories. You also don't get to "feel" the motor unless hand winding! Just in case you think we are a bit senile, out of date and in need of mentoring, I have to say that you don't get much more skill and efficiency concious than when building and flying indoor F1D class in serious competition. Have a go at building a 30" long model down to 1.4gr including an 18" dia variable pitch prop if you really want a challenge!
I built a pipit, I have been flying it for a couple of years, still flying well I consitantly get 2 minute flights. Will build another great little model, thank you
gracias. Estoy haciendo un You Tube sobre mi propio senador que mostraré tan pronto como pueda obtener un video de vuelo. I hope this translation makes sense!
