Hey - I'm Hendo....founder of the Rockstar Brewer Academy. I help professional brewers all over the world who are struggling to find reliable professional brewing information and advice to brew world-class beer with Quality, Consistency and Passion.
If you want to find out more about what I do, head over to my website at rockstarbrewer.com
Using Hendo's method I can grow 22 grams of dry (or 1 smackpack liquid) yeast starting Monday and have plenty to pitch into 6hl of wort on Wednesday. The following Tuesday or Wednesday I can easily pull off enough yeast to pitch into 2 more 6hl batches. Cost is less than $20.
How much wheat (%) would you add to a malt bill to ensure good head retention? I've always used 5-7% but at a brew pub I've been working at the head is still not great and my method is the same as in other brew pubs (filling the FV from the top, which I know is not ideas as it is using up foam potential, but it's the only option to allow for temperature measurement on some of these smaller set ups.
Ah I see. So adding wheat to that style is going to add haze and increase attention... Probably not something you want in that style of beer. You might want to try alpha acids or Maillard compounds as discussed in the video. Are you a pro brewer or home brewer? I might have some resources that could help.
Hey Hendo! Did you ever make the video about the mill gap? Just got a new brewhouse with a new malt mill. and i stuggle on what gap to set it to, to get the best resault on my new brewhouse :-) ?
Thank you for the good tip... i do the same in the brewery. May I add a small point; the very first thing is to make sure to release the pressure before touching the manway for safety reasons (talking from experience) ;-)
investing in a do meter will not prevent oxygen ingress :-)...will give you the opportunity to measure it if it is measure wihtin 25 min from the ingrress...
Or you probably can't notice the damage because you've never had beer with virtually 0 HSA, thus believe it doesn't matter. The thing is that the difference between none and a little is HUGE, and the difference between a little and some more is eh.
How do you right size a brew house to account for variable labor cost versus excess capital expenditure. I guess the question is, is it better to have a bigger brew house that would have more down time or the smaller brewhouse that is in more constant use to fill the tanks, but more labor. I’m pretty sure in this equation, it’s the latter.
Wort production (and the labour associated with it) is rarely a bottleneck in a brewery. Small(er) Brewhouse and big tanks will make you more money. You definitely don't want an asset sitting idle.
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Nice to know. My kegged homebrew is just as fresh as it was when I kegged it over 1 year ago, so I am doing something right.
Very good video and idea ! But the aluminum foil is non appropriate for autoclave because it stops the steam flow essential for correct sterilization. Is better use autoclave wrapping paper.
I had a feeling you had an IT background with the way you talk, very Agile esq, I like it and relatable with transferring certain soft skills in making beer😁
It also really helps to know everything that the beer touches. Making sure to clean even the tiniest little valves involved. As well as diligently cleaning the outside and immediate area. Cleaning is the more important job over the actual production work.
So if i brew 500L a day and it takes 2days to fill one 1000L fermenter. Can i do it safely without inserting co2 in the empty space, and without being infected by oxygen? (I already do this but i would love to have your opinion on it)
Absolutely. Oxygen isn't a risk at the start of fermentation so no need to purge the head space of the tank with CO2 between brews. In fact, if fermentation has kicked off between the first and 2nd brew then the yeast with l will create their own CO2. Thanks for watching! 🍻
Is there a standard tolerance range for things like gravity that you would recommend or just saying everyone just needs to define their own tolerance and be ok with it?
It depends upon the brewery, the measurement instruments available, the legal requirements for things like ABV and the skill of the brewer. Generally 0.002 SG or 0.3 Plato is a good place to start.
I am currently enrolled in a German brewmasters course in Berlin. The questions I ask won't be answered because the questions are either too deep or they just don't want to help...I feel like I am tired of asking questions that won't get answered anyway that I might just try to find papers and read them myself
Oh that's such a shame. If you head over to rockstarbrewer.com/linkinbio there's some resources that could help. I'd also really like to hear more about your experience at the Brew masters school and why it sucked so bad.
I use a slightly different method that doesn't require any dilution. I take gravity readings every 15 minutes during the boil which equates to about 2 gravity points. So in a 60 minute boil I check the gravity 4 times and if my TG is low I just how much time it will take to get to my TG.
physically clean removes oils and soil. chemically clean removes traces of cleaning solutions. Santistised, the standard most brewers achieve in practice outside of yeast propgation is the standard of reducing bacterial numbers to a suffiencently low levels that they do not affect beer production/ packaging or BBE's. Sanitising is the chemical or heat based reduction of CFU's to zero for all bacteria, virus' and molds/spores to nothing.
What constitutes the "middle bit"? I'm curious to hear more about that! I assume its the part between when the boil finishes and when it's considered finished in the brite tank, but I'm not sure.
The “middle bit” is fermentation and maturation. Lots of brewers focus on brew day and the finished beer but not how they get there in sufficient detail. If you don’t make a plan for how fermentation, maturation and dry hopping then it’s impossible to brew beer consistently. Do you document your entire process?
Just to clarify, you are adding more malt to get your preboil gravity to match your original gravity so you in essence malty flavor will be the same after topping off? Am I thinking right?
Right. Adding enough malt in the mash to get to what would be your OG. Boing off makes it higher, then you top off with water to reach you OG so in essence your wort will not be less malty when you top off and reach your OG. Am I still missing what you are doing and try to achieve?
So, it’s about the amount of head pressure and surface area under the head space that determines rate of carbonation. What is the roll of temperature? And why does the guy on the football team that kicks the ball down the field get beer?
Temperature forms part of what's called "Henry's Coefficient" under Henry's Law. It's a variable that affects how readily a gas dissolves into a liquid. The type of liquid is also part of Henry's Coefficient. Does CO2 readily dissolve into, say, engine oil? There are heaps of variables under Henry's Law. Thanks for watching!
Clarex does not make gluten-free beer. It’s only gluten reduced. Using gluten-free grains to begin with is the only way to make gluten-free beer! Just saying! I do like your analogy of Being as careful with beer, as you are with food! I find all of your content and videos. Very informative!
Actually did an internship during my apprenticeship in a swedish brewery and asked why they are not concerned about beer stone in their tanks :D actually didn't get a real answer
