Ben Eadie is a movie prop maker, practical special effects designer, inventor, nerd, and is a high collared cape and monocle away from being a mad scientist.
I have learned a lot working on movies like Ghostbusters: Afterlife, StarTrek Beyond, Maze Runner and Predator. I'm here to share my knowledge of prop making, cosplay tips and tricks, and EVA foam projects.
I’ll give you tips on computer aided design and 3D modelling with SolidWorks and OnShape tutorials. I’ll share suggestions for 3D printing, sanding and finishing 3D prints, DIY projects, prop making, and laser cutting. I also share with you the products and tools I can’t live without.
Subscribe and hit the notification bell so you don’t miss any of my new videos. I upload new content several times a month.
Consider joining me on Patreon…my Patrons get special access to files to make cool things and can join my private Discord server! www.patreon.com/beneadie
At home, mine will de-sense my RGB keyboard, and will totally disable it momentarily. It also interfered with my old power wheelchair, causing me to spin out of control in the middle of the street, and did permanent damage to the motor controller. I'm lucky though. Even with concrete board walls upstairs, rebar reinforced cinderblock basement walls, I still had to move my wife's oxygen concentrator to the corner furthest away from the shack to minimize any chance of interference. Intermod is also an issue on these radios.
Please. No. "If you can afford a 3D printer, you can afford a laser cutter" For one i don't have the space for another tool that is the size of 3D printer or larger. If i'm going to have one machine, it's got to be a 3D printer and not a laser. For other how much do you think i spent on my 3D printer? A grand? Try 10 times less. If i need a fit check, i can do a really shitty vasemode print or a single thin cross section quickly enough. Not that quickly, no, but plenty.
It would be good to have a foldable taped construction that you can quickly store and set up. Where the tape is also hinges. Of course tape is not to be taken off, one could have velcro for the spots where the connection needs to be undone for storage.
I wonder If Eva foam dust (It's collected from my dremel moto saw ) mixed with Eva glue .almost like plastic wood for carpentry (I got this tip from my woodwork classes at school)
Drama Queen, yes, the smell is prominent. You DO NOT need a respirator for a few ounces of Methyl Ethyl Keton, Methylene Chloride You could allow the entire bottle to evaporate in a two bedroom home and my sniffer would even cause an alarm If you were to allow it to evaporate in a small bathroom, you might pass out if you didn't have a fan Anyone who took this personally. I just can't stand drama queens. Brother, one of my vids I neutralized sulfuric acid no hood, no respirator just gloves at the sink with a face shield that was dangerous, this is childsplay compared to sulfur gas I could see a 5 gallon or 55 gallon drum gassing off but a few ounces 😂🤣😂 Laugh my ass off! Note: This technique has been used since the 80s for industrial repair of plastic parts no longer in production. Example, machine cover, component box etc 90s kids used it building their models
Just put about an inch or so of acetone pooled at the bottom of a plastic container and then suspend your printed piece above the liquid with the container sealed closed for around 10-15min
For those saying "just remove the battery" - that's not really an option. I received mine yesterday, and the battery consists of the entirety of the extended body, so when you remove it, you remove the bottom half of the body. Can you use these radios in the US? I'm moving to California in June, so was planning on getting my license when I'm settled.
One way to do this is, I found out recently and it was a forehead slapper, Tape off the battery terminals on the inside of the battery. It blocks the flow!
Excellent!. Works great for on the fly containment and this really does help. I am Using until I get my enclosure finished… (Heck, I am no longer in any rush😂).. Mega Thanks for documenting, Maga Thanks for posting! Really, Rad-🤙🏻
There’s another way to do it. This is an old gunpla trick. (For gunpla we use a different chemical, but it’s the same process) PLA is alcohol soluble. ABS is acetone soluble. Both are MEK soluble(methyl-ethyl keytone) take some extra plastic( of the same type as the part), and then make a liquid solution using the chemical of choice and use this as your “glazing putty”. It fuses the plastic together at the molecular level. It is impossible to remove. This can also function as glue to glue parts together. Be careful not to use too much chemical as it will eat through the plastic, that’s what it’s supposed to do. By dissolving the outer layer of plastic and brushing on new plastic you make a new layer on the micro scale that cannot be removed and can be sanded and worked once dry. The ideal ratio will dry in 2 minutes or less and bonds almost instantly. You will see brush marks so be careful and gentle handed. start with 1:1 mix of plastic and chemical and add chemical to get desired consistency. The more chemical you add, the less brush marks will appear, but the more likely it is to melt the part, and vice versa. MEK is nasty stuff and can cause brain damage and cancer. Use that PPE. Practice on a spare part and adjust until you reach desired results. I hope this helps someone. ❤+✌️
Is there a way to make the printer go outer ring-->zigzag-->inner ring-->inner ring-->zigzag-->outer ring in one fluid motion? U can do this on paper in one move.
An update on my part: i've noticed that just a machined edge is enough, doesn't need to roll it at all. It can be much less aggressive, and now i have a series of less and less aggressive edges on tools.. and the choice is pretty much always a very lightly rolled edge and the one that is straight out of the machine, it is just very sharp 90 degrees. Found a cheap wood carving kit that i repurposed.
