3d print prototyping vs. Laser Cutter prototyping. 

I'm still not quite sure this is a fair comparison; laser cutters & 3d printers have different purposes, and therefore should not be compared. For example, your laser cut piece doesn't hold any spills, while your 3d printed part does. Your slicer settings were unfair for this test. If you wanted a prototype, lightning infill with two walls should be used. You also claimed that high speed printers only print about 2 times as fast, which is very incorrect. I sliced the 3d cup with the same settings for infill, wall count, etc, and found that the AnyCubic Vyper, which is what I had assumed you have based on the video, could print it in 5 hours and 40 minutes. I sliced it with the same settings for my Creality K1 and found that it would take 1 hour and 13 minutes, which is nearly 5x as fast. And yes, I understand that 1 hour and 13 minutes is still almost half the speed as the laser cut model, but recall that I can leave my printer to make my part, while I have to assemble the laser cut version. This time, despite seeming very little, can make a big difference in the will to finish the project. I know that part was subjective, but from what I've experienced, I found that it happens regularly. I'm not writing this to "throw shade," but rather to correct your testing methodology and to make one simple point; that 3d printers, laser cutters, and any other CNC machine cannot be compared so rudimentarily.

​@@oglasshe admitted the first holder didn't match so he printed the parts that the laser machine cut, to create the same thing that had to be assembled but one was 3d printed material and the other was laser cut material. Laser cut probably is faster but 3d printed looks cooler 😅 However I don't know much about the environmental side of it all, should we really be making more plastic things or should we be using wood and other renewable and recyclable/biodegradable things 🤔

YES! A convert. Welcome to the club

@@DreadMakerRobertsI would argue a step further even- unless its cheap and available, don't even cut out of wood on your first go. Instead, see if laser cutting it out of perforated cardboard is a good fit, then upgrade to wood once everything fits.

That is awesome! Got a link to a video with this? Add it here if you want.

Couldn't agree more! Did you get the 20 or 40W xtool? Cause the 40W would be ultra fast on this

@@DreadMakerRoberts I got the 20W (with enclosure & air pump). I already had a honeycomb insert! Once I make a bit of $$$ with the hobby, I may invest in the 40W. It is a little pricey for that module. The 20W cuts 3mm & 6mm quite nice and clean. I was rather impressed.

Thank you!

#1 Pro is that laser cut wood smells so much better than 3d printed products. 😂

Totally agree!

Well said!

Hope you enjoy it!

Go for this one. It is much better than the LONGER. It is a little more refined and easier to use

@@DreadMakerRoberts copy that! I’ll take a look! Thank you sir!

This one comes with a more than adequate air assist pump, this one is actually quite good and is controlled by the board so no need to turn if off and on. The software does it for you. So no need for a compressor purchase

This thing is 500mm x 500mm it takes up less space than two 3d printers. And for vase mode... Stay tuned, it is still much faster. I'll cover that in a future video

Vase mode trial: ru-vid.com8o77bZo1Vzc

@@DreadMakerRoberts 👍🏻

ru-vid.comitTHmr3Uw5w

Totally!

Awesome and yes be safe

@@DreadMakerRoberts Same to you, king!

Totally agree!

I get it. Printers have their place but in my work the laser almost always wins

​@@DreadMakerRobertsget a P1P void the warranty with a CHT clone nozzle and get 0.8mm

​​​​@@DreadMakerRobertsI'm gonna have a 0.8 CHT nozzles by the end of the month so if you send me the files I can get print time estimates by then after tuning the pressure advance for each filament. There's also ways to reduce islands by printing object by object, you video shows layer by layer. I also got 3 P1Ps so I can split part across 3 printers

Ok cool I would love to see what time you can get. I'll be in touch in a bit. Let me get the next video out and we will chat after

Vase mode test. Not the best print but it is still showing it will take too much time. This is max flowrate on my printer... ru-vid.com8o77bZo1Vzc

Yup both need ballast actually or maybe more depth

That is awesome!

Ok but to hand cut these would be literal hours.

My bad, by hand cut I meant jigsaw, power tools something that I can use to replicate a laser cutter just with less accuracy. @@DreadMakerRoberts

No not your bad. You make a valid point but it still takes more time.

And all I get with this channel is ill tempered sea bass.

Yes you can and I am doing just that given the 'vase' comments on this video. Turns out at 0.6 nozzle, 120mm speed, and a special vase version I am still looking at a 2-3 hour print. Iasers still win.

@@DreadMakerRoberts 0.46mm layer height, CHT nozzle for less flow limitation?

0.35 layer height here ru-vid.com8o77bZo1Vzc still 2 hours and 20 min

@@DreadMakerRoberts That video doesn't really do what I'm suggesting in the first comment.

Ok cool, how do I get you the file and have you print it out with your settings? I want to see you beat 30 min from start to finish of a print.

I agree you can do this but definitely more than 10 min work. I would guess a min of a hour

@@DreadMakerRoberts Huh. I'm not counting the CAD time since it's the same as the laser CAD. I've cut out more complex parts in way less than an hour so I must be missing something. But yeah, I agree with your basic point that we should all be using the right tool and diode lasers are often the right choice.

Maybe I am just not very good with the manual cutting... Dunno but I am positive to cut those intricate pieces out will take much more than 10 min even with a skilled craftsman.

ru-vid.comitTHmr3Uw5w GIve it your best shot on cutting it out by hand. I am curious on how fast you can do it www.printables.com/model/584382-cup-adapter-for-a-car-to-hold-a-1-liter-nalgen-bot

You are my spirit animal :)

Ok I see that. Regardless I still think it will be slower

Right so if it can do this vase mode in 1/2 the time it will still be 1 hour and 10min. regardless of cost we are still looking at half the time for the same cost ru-vid.com8o77bZo1Vzc

ru-vid.comitTHmr3Uw5w and www.printables.com/model/584382-cup-adapter-for-a-car-to-hold-a-1-liter-nalgen-bot

Ok, Ive been using 3d printers since 1998, I am not sure you can claim I don't understand 3d printing. But lets go with this then. I know nothing. Tell me what settings I need to have on a FDM that has a max speed of about 88mm/s given the max volumetric flow I can achieve with my vyper. I agree in the bigger nozzle, I'll snap on a 0.8 and do your settings as you wish and see what we get. Yes fill was a bit much at what 12% ?. I am doing a pure vase mode print and at hour 1 it is at 50% so at 2 hours vs 30 min. The laser still wins. Update coming.

@@DreadMakerRoberts sorry if I came on a little hot and throw some shade. Usually never get a response. I did state that the laser was faster. The video feels like an ad read for a laser and it was. You didn't even suggest a different material to print out of. I did like keeping the same design. I would have brut forced the original design with some hex holes. So that was a fair comparison. .8 nozzle would drop the time down but yes the laser would win. I am curious what printer you started on in 1998. I started on a prusa Mendel in 2013. Technically some stratosis machine was before that but it was the schools. Also with a voron and some diamond PLA I can start to come close to your laser but that's losses in the hot car. No one sells diamond abs yet. I recant the statement of you don't understand 3d printing.

Ok cool then let's look at this I did a vase mode here regardless of the thickness it simply took too much time ru-vid.com8o77bZo1Vzc What material would you suggest to print it out of? With adding holes like hexes it actually adds time because the printer has to stop and start much more in the process and that is what is really eating up the print time. The printer in 1998 was one of the first Stratasys at a engineering company I worked for. Remember Stratasys started in 1989. It was super expensive and definately not in the hobby realm yet.

@@DreadMakerRoberts any other material besides PLA that can survive a hot car. Abs works great if you want to print stupid fast. The new diamond back nozzles are getting great flow rates. I stay in the .6 nozzle for quality. .8 just gets ugly. On my vyper (I had 2) I had put in a volcano to m6 standard nozzle so I could put in cht nozzle to kick up the flow rate. I didn't put klipper on them but you can really start getting that speed up. If you used a bigger model you could have shown the disparity of 3d printing and lasers. Your video concept is fine. The size of the model is what got to me. I do adaptive medical equipment and I use lasers, cnc, and 3d printing. I'm biased and usually lean towards 3d printing because the laser can't bring the material selection of 3d printing. It is way more vast at the expense of time ish. We use bambus cause I didn't want to build more vorons. I have markforge too but too slow.

ru-vid.comitTHmr3Uw5w and www.printables.com/model/584382-cup-adapter-for-a-car-to-hold-a-1-liter-nalgen-bot

Frikkin lassssers are the best!

Still, vase mode will not capture the full shape and done right with my vase mode printing method with ribs it will still beat it

Vase mode tested: ru-vid.com8o77bZo1Vzc

ru-vid.comitTHmr3Uw5w and www.printables.com/model/584382-cup-adapter-for-a-car-to-hold-a-1-liter-nalgen-bot

Ok cool let's imagine it thinner even 25% of its original self. It still takes 3 hours. Next argument is vase mode... ru-vid.com8o77bZo1Vzc

@@DreadMakerRoberts like I said, this has nothing to do with how long it takes to print. I’m only looking at this from the point of view of material usage (not necessarily about cost, it’s just kind of wasteful)

Yes you are correct, in this case it is not additive manufacturing and by nature there is wasts. I would think that a 2'x2' square of 1/8 in py (that I used for the prototyping and in the end had about 1/3 usable material left over) would be a similar volume of material to the 3 prototypes of wood. I think 2 throw out plastic adapters would have just as much waste as the wood. On a side note this is making me curious what one would be a better choice for the environment given power consumption, smoke, chemicals, trucking etc...

@@DreadMakerRoberts the impact on environment in terms of emitted gases is a whole new level.

Totally. But one that might be worth looking into