Thanks for this - just a heads up - the 3D printed caps don’t fit the Simagic springs. The Simagic springs inner diameter is 9.3mm, the outside diameter of these caps is 10mm. If anyone knows how to fix the thingiverse recipe, I’d love to reprint these. Thanks!
Can you tell me if there is a way for me to put this bass shaker in place of the original by connecting this big bass in place of the small one by splicing the wires
The review seems very bias and negative I've had this wheel for about 4 months It's incredible Especially for £200 If you want carbon fibre then maybe you need to add another £600 to that You obviously don't like thrustmaster I have to defend them slightly as they have a great customer service and their product range is massive Will always stick with thrustmaster I was about to spend a £1000 on fanatec but they would not reply to any emails regarding the product but we're willing to take my money May I ask What are you comparing this wheel to
I used a lighter and heat gun and can not get the screws to break loose at all i really got it hot nothing so im looking to see if i can just get the 6 leg spider part..
Hey Peter I use a solder iron and used a lighter nothing the screws still will not move.. would you know were to buy the spider from I have the f1 ferrari 1000 wheel
It's better to review it after understanding the structure. The load cell sensor measures pressure, so no matter what happens in between, the stroke will change, but the pedal force will not change. If you put a steel spring in an aluminum cylinder, put a Teflon sheet or something in between to prevent wear and friction. You should review with the right knowledge
Hi I got a question for you. I bought the quick release for the t300. But I recently upgraded to the tgt 2. Can I use the adapter on the tgt 2. I try to attach it to the back of the wheel but the hub part won't go in all the way. It's the part with the 3 legs. Thanks in advance
Amazing video, very informative with easy to follow steps. However, could you send the link for the slim quick release, as I cannot find one that looks like yours. And I don’t want to order the wrong one.
For a better authentic look I would use 7 segment display with 4 digits, but I really appreciate your creativity, thanks for sharing your ideas and projects!
i wanted a longer video a full assembly and all I like your video a lot will help me to decide if I want p1000s. I have clubsport v2 rn but I would always crash out in light braking zones, I looked in the control panel and apparently you don't even read brakes until full 100% travel with the damper design. So I realize I need to upgrade to be able to actually brake.
@Peter Makes Things Hi peter. So im hoping you can help as i have no idea about making my own 3d print desings. My question is i see you have designed spacers for the spring mod on the brake but those are for the none hydraulic version. Would it be possible to add print files on thingyverse for spacers that work on the hydraulic mod. I purchased the new spring kit from Simagic but it only comes with the washers for the none hydraulic brake so i need some washers for my hydraulic brake to use springs. From what ive seen the washers they send with the new p1000 hydraulic default version the washers look like yours but its like 2 of your washers on top of each other if that makes sense. If you could design me the washers for the hydraulic mod im willing to pay what ever for your time?
i almost needed to laugh couple of times because you sounded so disappointed while takin it apart.. to be fair i agreed to the disappointment lol but damn Thrustmaster tops again with their Overbuild stuff.. you need a masters degree to take that thing apart lol
But if you use elastomers with angle it still kinda measures your force. Example 1: If you apply 30kg of pressure on brake to have, let's say 75% braking power in game, and with that 30kg you move the pedal, let's say 5cm, you will always have to apply 30kg or 5cm to get 75% braking power! Example 2: If you apply 35kg of pressure on brake to have, let's say 82% braking power in game, and with that 35kg you move the pedal, let's say 5,4cm, you will always have to apply 35kg or 5,4cm to get 82% braking power! And this is the reason I love P1000, because you can have elastomers but measure distance! So even simpler solution is to have elastomers and travel sensor for best precision, as you showed in the beginning of the video. You can be 1-2% perfect that way. Only thing is, that you have to have at least some kind of travel to make this viable... those dudes that do 0,0cm brake pedal travel setups, sorry, you guys are crazy anyway! :) And for guys that don't wanna mod and that still wanna use brake force and not travel, you can tinker with braking curve at the 80% point to make it not drop that much. It's not perfect solution, but it's some kind of first aid measure.
First of all, thank you very much @petermakesthings7342 for sharing this mod. Definitely way better than using full elastomer pads! You can really have precise control with the pedal and it helps a lot on my trail braking. @JesseGebauer fyi Unfortunately, the 3D-printed washer (next to the red elastomer) broke into pieces after >10 hrs of use. The other 3D-printed washer is still intact and has no damage. I just finished making some modifications and we'll see if it will hold up in time... So basically what I did is used a metal washer next to the red elastomer and then I cut off the flange of the 3D-printed washer and only used the (ring) part that helps stabilize the die spring from moving side to side. The 3D-printed washer and metal washer configuration next to the blue elastomer remains the same. And by the way, I used the dark green (heavy load, 28% compression)10x20x35mm die spring I bought from the link below. As Peter mentioned, the preload tension needs to be dialed in properly. Otherwise, maintaining 100% brake pressure is somehow inconsistent. I will try the brown (X Heavy Load) die spring soon. It should increase the stiffness a bit and reduce the compression to 24%. Thus, slightly reducing the brake pedal travel. Also, the 3D-printed washer can be replaced with the combination of an M6 metal washer and stand-off and flange coupling (depending on the length of the die spring used). Happy modding guys! www.aliexpress.com/item/4000277618107.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.7.35deeb1aSjLN1f&algo_pvid=5a5beb70-b1d8-4c9f-b357-4a0f73a78b17&algo_exp_id=5a5beb70-b1d8-4c9f-b357-4a0f73a78b17-3&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21SGD%214.10%213.60%21%21%212.96%212.60%21%402140e03217077105871952488ee53a%2112000025405462336%21sea%21SG%210%21AB&curPageLogUid=t8ZjXi87qjWI&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A#nav-specification
Hey simagic as i suspected just released their damper, i was hoping you would get it and review for comparison with the fanatec one and differences stock vs with damper
