On a journey to understand all things shooting, accuracy, ballistics, and the science behind them. Coming from a hunter, and long range and competitive shooter
I use the same comparator. For longer bullets, I had to drill the hole in the base deeper so the longer bullets (ogive to tip) wouldn’t bottom out before the collet got to the ogive. Very simple to do and is a permanent fix.
This was INCREDIBLY helpful. Ive been getting deeper and deeper into long-range shooting, and when i worked up a load for my .308....i was most concerned about Extreme Spread. This is going to be much better for me, when doing future (and current) load development.
@@longrangescience Oh, man. Where do I start?!? I'm about to work up a load for my .300WM. I'm in TN, but I like to shoot all year-round. So sometimes I'm at the range and it's 95°+ out....and sometimes it's 30°. I've heard mixed things when it comes to "temperature stability". Are all modern propellants equally temp stable? Are some better than others? I'd like my muzzle velocity to stay as consistent as possible, so I can have more consistent DOPE throughout the year. Is temp stability something to worry about? Thoughts?
A classic 1911 is hard to beat but this is from christensen arms and carbon fiber is their whole thing, so the carbon fiber grips make sense. And it real carbon fiber, not just the look alike stuff
These scopes have a “zero stop” you set the zero once. then you can dial for distance and then dial back to a hard stop on the turret where your 100 yard zero is set
@@allseriousness no problem. Some scopes, usually ones without exposed turrets or ones made mostly for hunting don’t. It’s mostly on longe range/tactical style scopes
@@longrangescience My long range scope I'm realizing has the ability to reset the zero by removing and setting the turret caps back to 0, but not the hard stop feature.
Most scopes will let you do that. If you never dial more than a full rotation you’ll never have a problem. It really comes into play when you dial multiple revolutions and forget how many turns you did. What scope is it?
I was curious how fast the prc could push those. I built a single shot target rifle to plink steel out to 2500 yards in 300 RUM with 33” barrel and i ended up with my velocity at 3175 fps zero pressure and a hammer
Man that’s awesome! I was wondering how fast they’d go or if I’d need to move to 212’s. Not too bad so we’ll see how they do. But man 3175 is nuts! Sounds like an awesome rig. You get a custom throat length for the longer bullets?
Is this more of a really long range consideration? I mean is this something your average shooter has to worry about if they shoot a 3006 at lets say no more than say about 600 yards max? As a hunter, Im generally shooting less than 300 yards for 90% of shots, and anything over 450 would probably be 1% or less.
It wouldn’t be something you need to worry about. With distance and target size you have it won’t be enough to matter. 800 yards+ and on smaller targets is when it can have a noticeable effect
@@longrangescience Cool...Just out of curiosity....what if I was using a lower velocity, low bc round like say a 45/70 or 30/30, and wanted to extend my range over what one would typically shoot 45/70 or 30/30. Would this come into play in that scenario?
Great question. It moves slower so it will show up sooner, but the main factors like velocity, twist rate and bullet length are minimized. A quick check in a ballistic calculator looks like about 5” drift (1MOA) at about 500 yards for one load. So if your taking those to longer ranges it could become an issue
It sounds like this 21 Sharp is going to fit a very tight niche. 22 NRL and 22 ELR have some dedicated players who will probably be 99% or those who use this cartridge. But it’s really going to come down to economics. If it can be purchased for a small premium over quality 22 LR, then it may capture some of the informal recreational market. But more than likely, it will end up like the under appreciated 17 M2. And that would be a shame.
@@longrangescienceignore them. we can usually tell who will be bad parents based off of things they say. this is one of them. the kid is interested. this is good for the child. he is having fun. the commenter here is hypersensitive and quite literally stupid
Ya Fr tho like how is this child labor at all lil bud is invested and parents make kids clean grout cut the grass etc but that’s not child labor either
My position definitely wasn’t the best for recoil control haha you can’t really see it but my legs are curled up because the truck bed wasn’t long enough. But I would like to get it a little heavier since it’s going to be a dedicated long range rig.
Which bushing(s) you need somewhat depends on whether you anneal the brass, or not, and the makeup of the brass itself. There will be springback, how much, is due to the makeup and hardness of it. If you have mixed brands, you'll likely need 3 or more bushings, if you intend to turn your necks, you'll need smaller bushings. And, bushings shud be checked to see what size they really are, when you get them, with a pin gage. Just be prepared for needing more than one bushing, may need at least 3.
I must have missed the part where he “trued” the reticle. I only saw a scope install/level (with him forgetting to push the mount forward during torquing.)
What do you think truing means? And if you don’t have enough clamping force to keep the mount from sliding on a light recoiling rifle, you have bigger problems
It does a lot better job of cleaning the inside of the cases, flash hole, and primer pockets with the steel pins. Thats also why I deprime before. Vibratory cleans the outside nice, but that’s about it
I don't know why but wind always messes me up. Every time i think I've dialed the right direction I've dialed the wrong way. Only been shooting long range off and on for a little bit so i try to think of it like i would with iron sights- pretend the sights are fixed in space: if you dial the reticle down you're actually raising the barrel; move it left and you're pushing the barrel left. Elevation seems to work the same but windage is backwards I think. I think i just need to take a piece of poster board to the range, dial, and see where it hits. Probably the only way it'll stick in my head.
Ya that’s a really good way to think about it. Thats also the reason I usually use the reticle to hold wind instead of dial. But doing that with a poster is a good idea. Just lock the rifle down and watch how the reticle moves. I like that
nice shootin.... not easy to time your shots to keep the target swinging..... my bro and I do the same with our handguns at 50yds on a target attached by chains
