The worst thing you can have is after remove everything to replace leaking valve cover gaskets and put everything back together, then plug scanner to check if there's any fault code loge in and found P0327 knock sensor code..... Great video! Should check it before I did the repair🤣
Been planning on doing this soon, but i am going do something other than just cutting the wire. You can get 433MHZ remote modules pretty easily and my plan is to get one of these modules and a 12V relay and wire it, so that the wire that is snipped's circuit is closed on the normally closed contact of the relay. The relays coil will be controlled by the 433MHZ remote module, as well as an indicator light that will be mounted somewhere on my dash. The 433MHZ remote modules can be controlled synced and controlled by the Homelink buttons on the rearview mirror. This will allow the system to work normally, then be able to be disabled by the rearview button, with the indicator bulb showing that the system is disabled.
If you still have a rearview I wouldnt be doing this mod yet lol this is done for left foot braking when in tandem which you need a full cage for so the rearview goes bye bye lol
@@tylerlucas8060 only places to get an oem one is Z1, Concept Z performance or Nissan themselves. I wouldnt get it from Ebay, Amazon or Rockauto personally.
Mine has been done for many years now with no issues. And yes lights come on the dash. But if your doing this mod you dont care about some lights. A tuner can have the lights erased
Amazing video than you so much! The car loses power/torque because the timing is set back when you have this code right? So once you get the new harness in, does everything just fix itself or do you have to revert your ecu or some other process? Thanks again
Great video brother...I'm doing this myself...can I just tighten the bolts by hand or do I need a torque wrench? Worried about stripping the bolts. How did you put it back together?
Thanks. Outstanding video. Question - my lowest plenum gaskets (2ea 3 holes per side)are thin aluminum with what looks like an oem black sealant that is flaking off. I don't want a vacuum leak. Did you guys reuse these and if so did you apply any of your own sealant. Thanks. Doing it all now and it really helps.
Accessing that one knock sensor under the intake plenum location is a difficult place to access, but on the other hand it's less rusty due to being not directly exposed salt, water, and other elements. I've seen other engines with the knock sensor threaded into the engine block, and they have so much thick rust, and will almost always snaps off, if no penetrating fluid was used and soaked, or did not propane heat it up, before attempting to remove the old one. If it snaps off, you will be stuck with doing the nearly impossible job, to resolve the problem of getting rest of the stuck rusted pieces out of the block, so you can install the new knock sensor. But again putting it under the intake plenum area is not that great since the constant heat will dry out the wiring insulator and eventually cracking it and throws code, also moisture might get in too.
Hey guys I have an 04 g35 and I’m 99% sure this is my problem. The car is drivable but it’s got no power. New plugs, coils, injectors too since the car sat for 7 years I went through the whole system. Fuel was disgusting. Do you guys recommend the oem sensor or do the aftermarket ones seem to be ok? Same question with the harness, oem or aftermarket like Z1
I know this is an older video, but I'd assume this would be the same as replacing the one on my 02 Altima? Other than turning the motor sideways with it being a front wheel drive.
