Does your 350Z/G35 bog down? It feels slower than usual? It may not be the spark plugs, coil packs, or injectors. Instead the knock sensor or knock sensor harness!
The worst thing you can have is after remove everything to replace leaking valve cover gaskets and put everything back together, then plug scanner to check if there's any fault code loge in and found P0327 knock sensor code..... Great video! Should check it before I did the repair🤣
@@tylerlucas8060 only places to get an oem one is Z1, Concept Z performance or Nissan themselves. I wouldnt get it from Ebay, Amazon or Rockauto personally.
Finally a video that actually helps..my check engine light is on in my G35 cuz of the knock sensor I have the parts but was about to have someone else do it till I saw this 🤙🏽👍🏽
@@juanhidalgojr1906 Very easy just take your time don’t even bother going to the dealership just be careful not to drop anything inside the engine and be careful with the fuel injector rails
Thanks for the great video, just got the knock sensor, harness and cam sensors to do all at once since I have the knock sensor code. Appreciate the good quality and cheers from Palm Bay Florida. If you ever wanna come slide at the compound let me know!
Well recorded video and concise. Yeah my sensor went bad “shockingly after my tune;” thus, I had to replace it due to power loss - against my 93 and E85 map. Overall this is not a hard job nor worth paying $1,300 at a stealership. A bit time consuming sure but once you’ve taken off your plenum for the first time? It’s super easy to get to the valley or tear down your short or long block. P.S. If I can recommend something to others. Wrap your replacement with high-rated thermal wrap to avoid overheating your harness, and relocate your knock sensor near your oil filter for an easier future swap. And no, the relocation will not affect which cylinder is having issues - should your sensor or harness fail in the future. Also! Since you’re in the valley you might as well convert your returnless fuel setup to a full return. Just my advice. 👨🏾🎓🤙🏾
This was very helpful I took my car in for this problem got it fixed the symptoms came back but no light so I ordered it did it myself and it’s back to normal I just don’t know why there was no light
Accessing that one knock sensor under the intake plenum location is a difficult place to access, but on the other hand it's less rusty due to being not directly exposed salt, water, and other elements. I've seen other engines with the knock sensor threaded into the engine block, and they have so much thick rust, and will almost always snaps off, if no penetrating fluid was used and soaked, or did not propane heat it up, before attempting to remove the old one. If it snaps off, you will be stuck with doing the nearly impossible job, to resolve the problem of getting rest of the stuck rusted pieces out of the block, so you can install the new knock sensor. But again putting it under the intake plenum area is not that great since the constant heat will dry out the wiring insulator and eventually cracking it and throws code, also moisture might get in too.
thanks for your video this my first time work on the car and i need to replace the knock sensor .and i have to replace the o2 sensor can you tell me where the o2 sensor locate at .
So I'm having issues while driving with my G35, and my codes are reading Knock sensor, the rpms struggle around 3 thousand and won't climb further than that
Whenever I have heat shrink and I see wires that are riding a hot part of the engine I heat shrink them. I just always feel like little stuff like that is good preventive maintenance for future headaches.. (especially thin wires like the knock sensor wires for example, seems like 9/10 people will change everything assosicating with sensors etc and very few will think about the wiring and connections! The heat shrink is deff a good idea!! The maf sensor wire comes heat shrink protected from the factory and it holds the same wires guage as the knock sensor wires! Will not hurt to do that to any wires that are in a vulnerable position!
@Smokey Drift...do you recommend to replace the upper and lower intake gaskets and the fuel injector seals while doing this job? Are they normally reusable? Thanks for the excellent video!
Amazing video than you so much! The car loses power/torque because the timing is set back when you have this code right? So once you get the new harness in, does everything just fix itself or do you have to revert your ecu or some other process? Thanks again
those parts are reuseable and do not need to be replaced everytime. I have probably taken apart and reused the same gaskets over 12 times and no issues
I would definitely get a plenum spacer if you plan on getting a tune soon. My AFRs were really messed up until I got the tune. But it definitely helps once tuned with it!
Thanks. Outstanding video. Question - my lowest plenum gaskets (2ea 3 holes per side)are thin aluminum with what looks like an oem black sealant that is flaking off. I don't want a vacuum leak. Did you guys reuse these and if so did you apply any of your own sealant. Thanks. Doing it all now and it really helps.
The is no sealant to be used on the plenums only the metal gaskets. The gaskets are reusable but if they are in bad shape your going to need new ones. Order them from Z1Motorsports they carry only OEM parts
@@SmokeyDriftThanks for replying sd. Ann's by the way - I'm trying the harness removal right now....omg....think I'll going to try your method and snake a wrench up in there and remove the bracket. It's the hardest part of this project. Thanks again. Very helpful. I'm gong to send props your way from my RU-vid junk.
Definitely like the video about detail and showing everything. My z does a same. When it cold, rpm couldnt goes pass 4k rpm. Like lose power. The car raise up 4k but it not get the car accelerate like it should. After while driving like 30 mins. It will be like normal. I change spark plugs, coil pack, check compression. No code show up. I will do mine replace soon. Which knock sensor did u order. Thanks for video 😍
@@SmokeyDrift i just replace cam and crank sensor. Cam selenoid. Other mass air flow sensor order on the way. I have unknown why it happen, not hitting anything, oil change every 3k miles 5w30 require. Vavle cover gasket, smoke check for vaccum leak, pcv delete. My issue same like u, but when the engine get hot it will be back to normal. Also it can rev up to 7k when park. I did change my trans fluid, diff fluid. Shift gear very smooth, not have any gear grind. Diff welded, but i had a car and drove it, drifted it with no issue. I try so many difference way, watch for so many video, research it. Took it no nissan to scan, figure what happen but nothing found, no engine code throw
Will this help with a p0031 code ive send in the ecu and replaced both o2 sensor and when we ohm the wires its getting low voltage possible could be the ground wire
I dont believe it will affect anything to do with that. To be honest none of our Zs have 02s anymore you can just delete them and have the code turned off thru a tune.
Great video brother...I'm doing this myself...can I just tighten the bolts by hand or do I need a torque wrench? Worried about stripping the bolts. How did you put it back together?
Yooooo my G is hella lacking power like that one but the thing is that it don’t throw a knock sensor code it’s throwing a missfire code at full throttle it blinks and then turnes off and then it’ll turn on and stay for a little bit then turn off like nothing what could that be? Should I just replace knock sensor to see if that gets my power back? Btw spark plugs, coil packs are all new
Sounds like a bad cat, drive it hard if you can or do some pulls and look under and check of the cats are glowing orange or if you hear heavy pinging from the exhaust and feel a lot of heat when you stop! The heat emitting from one side hotter then the other is a good sign which side of the cat is bad. But then again it could also be a other things but at least you can rule that main thing out
Quick question bro, my 2004 350z is bogging out at 4k rpm, and has no power to it after that. If i hold the "high" rpm for too long I can hear rattling or pinging. Are these two issues signs of a bad knock sensor or harness. Also, will the issues always throw a fault code and check engine light?
You can get ping from bad gas, can definitely be a knock sensor as well. Mine did not have a check engine light. In fact it had a code pending which was a p0327 I believe don’t quote me on that but it was the knock sensor.
@@danilolima3603 I always use premium grade 98 and I have done a diagnostic scan and there were no fault codes at all. I have changed the spark plugs and I am going to be doing an oil change as well. Any other ideas?
Hello brother, I have the same problem and for 1 month now I can't figure out what it is, I changed spark plugs, coils, flow meter, I turned off the rear lambda probes, the crankshaft sensor too, there is compression and I only have the konck sensor, the error that comes out is 300, sorry for my bad English, but I’m from Bulgaria
@@ivankolarov7569 check the wires that plug into your coils mine was doing the same thing, I had this same issue with performance and the knock sensor wire was ok, but after checking and looking thru every wire in the engine and 3 months of same problems I see there was a naked section of the coil wire like it was cut and was touching engine metal.. I simply put wrap it in electrical tape and perfect. 6 months no problems! Also make sure your gas cap is ok that it hold pressure I also had bad power and no codes with that, twice the power with new gas cap!
Hey guys I have an 04 g35 and I’m 99% sure this is my problem. The car is drivable but it’s got no power. New plugs, coils, injectors too since the car sat for 7 years I went through the whole system. Fuel was disgusting. Do you guys recommend the oem sensor or do the aftermarket ones seem to be ok? Same question with the harness, oem or aftermarket like Z1
No! If it’s literally knocking that’s a internal issue like a bad rod or piston.. if you’re lucky it could be a timing chain/ chain tensioner issue, but that’s more of a chain rattle then a knock! Also if you can hear it when it’s cold and when it warm up it goes away then its most likely timing chain issue! If it gets louder when it warms up then its deff rod knock/ internal problem
Smokey Drift thanks man! I’ve been going all over Hawaii trying to find one for months. I recently replaced the knock sensor detonator thinking that would help but it’s the harness that needed to be replaced. I drive a 04 350 and it’s been misfiring and running Rich. Any ideas on what that may be?
@@gagecrook3994 Check the coilpacks and the spakplugs. Make sure the plug holes dont have oil in them either if so the valve cover is bad. For running rich I would have the car tuned to fix that
@@gagecrook3994 Make sure that on the driver side when you did the coil packs that the connections didnt get crossed. A ton of people cross them on accident which would obviously cause a misfire
@@spicetalk8672 not really you just get faster the more you do it. Ive done it probably a dozen times now on all different Zs so you just learn how to do things faster
I know this is an older video, but I'd assume this would be the same as replacing the one on my 02 Altima? Other than turning the motor sideways with it being a front wheel drive.
