WELCOME MAKERS! I'm Michael and this is my channel: Primal Edge Designs. Become part of a community that loves to make everything and anything. I love to create all types of stuff - some useful some useless but ALL FUN! Leather, wood, metal, plastics, foam... basically, if you can make something out of it, I'll find a way to make something with it! Look around, check out some of my videos, if you like what you see, I welcome you to subscribe and have fun and together, we'll create, make, and innovate!
It was just a scrap piece of Corion. That countertop material that feels like plastic. I had some scraps sitting around from an old kitchen project that I did years ago, and I just never threw them out. I wrapped it with wet or dry sandpaper. And depending on the Severity of the damage you’re trying to repair you can get away with something as high as 800 to start out with - or if it’s really really bad, you can get down to 100 grit. But the Corion is just used to keep the sandpaper flat so that I get my edges nice and crisp for when I use the spine to strike the Ferro Rod.
I’m really just trying to clean up some old metal cabinet handles and getting ideas from your video. I have sand paper somewhere but I don’t know what liquid to put on it to get the shine back on
As I recall, I think it was just metal polish like the stuff you get from maybe AutoZone or one of those places that you used to polish chrome. But I don’t really use that until the absolute very end after I’ve ran through like the highest grits really you can probably gonna get a very acceptable shine on what you’re doing if you just use the wet dry sandpaper and run through the grits starting maybe at 100 or 120 and then work your way up to 800 or even 1000 if you want to. Use some WD-40 or water to assist you as you’re going through the grits and I think you’ll be just fine with what you’re trying to do. And you don’t have to use every single grit between 120 and 1000 you can go from 1:20 to 3:20 to 400 to 800 then 1000 just keep your paper fresh and keep your surface lubricated and I think you’re gonna get the results you’re looking for. I wouldn’t worry too much about the paste.
If that doesn’t work or perhaps you might want to try this first, there’s another video on my channel discussing how to make an update to the G code. Add that line item to the G code and then re-run the bed, leveling sequence, and try a test print first.
Can I pay you to do this for me? It'll be for an EDC school bag, but I prefer canvas bags, and I don't have the time or ability right now to do this. I can absolutely pay for the materials and your time.
How about being a little bit more descriptive with how you are measuring, the exact amount of materials you need in a little voice instruction, along with what type of tools and materials that are being used.
I can do that. I actually just finished prepping a new staff that I’m gonna leather out the handle on this weekend. Maybe I’ll do more of a tutorial style like your suggesting. I will say it’s kind of difficult to give the measurements but I can show you how I can get the measurements. I hope that’ll be enough to get you started. if I shoot it this weekend I’ll probably have it out by next week. Check it out and let me know what you think. Thanks for the feedback!
Do you have a way to connect these end-to-end to make longer tubes? I'm looking for strong tubes upcycled from used rolls of toilet paper and paper towel. Also, whatever material is used to connect them, would like it to be non-toxic and biodegradable (safe for the environment) and very Strong.
I have used your suggestion here and I've found that my rail that supports the hot end it perfectly "level" with that upper bar but it is not with the bed at all. What do we do in this instance? My back right corner is way high. So high I have to raise the z-height to not dig into the bed. Then of course, the left front is way too high and has no squish or layer bonding side to side.
I recently found a fix that solved this issue when it (yet again) creeped back up and my recommendations did not work. I'm editing a video on it, but short answer is: you need to add a line in your g-code after the 'G28 ; Home' line. in that line you will add: 'M420 1' (without the ' in it). For whatever reason, the auto-bed leveling results get erased in the slicer. that M420 1 line tells the g-code to recall the results of the bed leveling and use that. I am using CURA, each slicer may be different as to how to modify the g-code. heads up, you will only need to do this once. (video coming soon!). I hope this helps until then...
I took some chipboard off the back of an old legal pad, stood the tubes on end, traced them out and then just cut them and put a little bit of Elmer’s glue on the bottom to hold it on
Yes I just watched your video on your survival staff and I was wondering if PVC piping would work for something like that and if so I had a thought about putting the outer shell into sections and have each part as a different mod just asking but what you think about that sir
In my opinion, Kyoku are better than Victornox, Wustof, Henkel, or Pampered Chef. Those are decent knives for the advanced private kitchen chef. Of course, I do appreciate a heavy knife.
After about a week, I went back over with the heat gun to kind of try to level everything out which it did. And then after you bringing it out and stuff, it did start leveling out.
Please I am in dire need of help. I bought my first Anycubic Kobra 2 Max during the presale and it became my favorite printer. After a month I started getting an error of bedplate not heating. As I updated the firmware, it then became Hotbed NTC issue and pretty much killed my printer. I had to take about the bottom to reattach the bed plate power cable which gave me one print. It no longer works because of this issue. I bought another Kobra since it was a great printer but not even a month after producing perfect prints, it now has massive shifting and nothing comes out of it correctly.
By massive shifting, are you saying it shifts in the middle of a print? If that’s the case, that sounds like it’s most likely a belt tensioning situation if it shifts from front to back make sure the two belts are tense not so tense like a guitar string that’s gonna snap, but make sure it’s pretty tight and make sure they feel app Appropriate to one another so the left side is just as tense as the right side. Lastly, if it’s a left or right issue, check the belt tensioning along the gimbal.
Thank you for this video. I was ready to bring this back to MicroCenter until I saw this video. Thought it was just another garbage Creality CR10 S5. This technique along with squaring up the Y axis using a framing square and adjusting the long angle supports to square up the bed front to back. Thank you again. I love this printer. I have a Bambu X1 Carbon, (2) Bambu P1S's, Prusa MK4 and a Prusa MK3 and this has become my favorite printer THANK TO PRIMAL EDGE DESIGNS!
Wow that's a really neat bag design actually, the fact that the leather strap clasps are functional and have tabs that you loop the strap through. Replacing the magnetic closures with clasps only takes sewing the loop onto where the magnets are. Brilliant video and good choice in bag, really like it ! Thanks a lot!
How To Make a Leather Haversack (Indiana Jones has one!) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4AC14iVd9zU.html I got it all off Amazon, believe it or not 😂
Hi, I had big problems with my Cobra Max and was about to call for assistance but then I saw your video!!! Thank you very much!! I had moved the printer for some work and probably moved the two oblique fittings... the plate was not level. Now everything seems ok and the first two prints went great!!!
Thanks for the video! But I have a problem with far left corner. If I do the mix of the fixes that you mentioned in both of your videos I might mess up the other corners as well. Or am I wrong?
Yes, and no. It’s kind of like a balancing act. If you’ve ever seen anyone try to level a pool table or something like that you have to do it one section at a time and it’s kind of a process. So yes, in an attempt to fix one area you might then offset another area, but if you minimize your fixes and do a little bit here in a little bit there, you can level it out overall I had my problem in the front right corner, which is I think opposite of what you’re saying in the far left corner. One of the problems I ran into when I was trying to solve this. The first time was overcompensating. And I kept thinking every time I do one thing I’m making something else worse. So just take it step at a time and if you’re using test prints, they can be your best friend! There’s a few different types that you can use that I know or in Cura I can’t remember exactly the name, but if you look in the Keira menu, you’ll find different types of test prints you can do and there’s one that has I believe nine squares, and then a perimeter around the whole thing. That’s a great one to figure out where your deviations are at. I know it’s frustrating, but if you take the time to dial it in, you will absolutely be happy with this machine. I am. I’ve got two now.
@@PrimalEdge thanks for such a quick reply! I appreciate it. It seems that now I have plans with Kobra Max this weekend trying to figure this out. Thank you for your time! You do a great work not just informing of the fixed that Anycubic doesn’t bother telling customers about, but inspiring to keep on going and getting these precious perfect prints despite all the troubles with the printers!
I am having a similar issue but mine is in the back of it and i don't know how to fix it, the front of the printer is perfectly fine but the back literally scrapes the bed and i have no clue how to fix it. Do you know of any ways to fix this issue? If so let me know. Thank You. (I have an anycubic kobra plus)
Great video, I have the Kobra 2 Max, Kobra 2 Plus and the Kobra 2 Neo, I've gotten on successfull print off the max and plus then it went hell, the Neo worked perfectly until yesterday and I've had it for almost 2 months the max and plus less then a month I'm going to try this because it sounds exactly like what I am facing thank you
I realize i am 3 years late to the party but as a new leather worker myself I appreciate this video. It is good to see the learning process, I am curious what the demensions of the haversack are and if you ever finished it? If so, how did it turn out?
I am trying to make a Batman cowl mold from a 3D print and had someone tell me I could never create a grade A master with a 3D print. It confused me. Why not? You take time to do it right and smooth out the durn surface. Then make your mold and cast. IDK. He is experienced making them, but I think it can be done. Just sand. Sand a lot.
I don’t like saying something can’t be done. And I’m not sure exactly how it would be done, but I know that people have used 3-D prints to make molds for casting in other applications. There’s a guy on RU-vid and I can’t think of the name of his channel, but he does this kind of stuff, and I know that I’ve seen him do 3-D printed molds for casting of smaller items. I’m quite sure it’s scalable.
