If all this channel does is make working on your Vulcan 750 a little easier, it will be enough. But my aim is higher. I'm a Chemical Engineer and I love to cross link my training with my automotive passions to design robust and efficient ways of working. I like to make things easier for others. This channel is a way for me to showcase this with you. Enjoy!
What did you use for turn signal relocation? My saddle bags have to be pushed forward because of mine. Did you go with a taillight integrated or just relocate them?
It can be tricky to find turn signal relocation kits. I couldn't find one, so I got an LED brake light/turn signal combination unit from eBay...something like this: www.ebay.com/itm/273059088867?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-170536-586452-3&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=273059088867&targetid=2291088838959&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1025398&poi=&campaignid=20950050414&mkgroupid=160786912216&rlsatarget=pla-2291088838959&abcId=9370741&merchantid=118844416&geoid=1025398&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwooq3BhB3EiwAYqYoEqQPvx0OHpLnGsraf0nbTRO3K5pyXeosQn0N5YjdCMOfW5nK2tQyahoC4MoQAvD_BwE Just be aware that this may not pass inspection since certain regulations may stipulate the turn signal light must be a certain distance away from the brake light.
I appreciate all ur videos. They are a great help to familiarize us with the locations and functions of all the parts. Very useful to us who are still learning the terms and tricks.
Thanks for the comment. You are very welcome. Actually, this video idea came from another viewer who left a comment on one of my other videos. My stator crapped out on my this season, cutting my riding season short. I plan to replace the stator myself and when I do I'll make a video series about it, and I'd also like to revisit this and show more about the fuel/air/vent hoses and lines. Stay tuned :)
I only found this out quite recently when I was re-wrapping my pipes. But the pipes you see here are stock OEM pipes from Kawi. The only difference being that the previous owner cut out and removed the "Goat's Belly" (AKA Expansion Chamber) and put on aftermarket exhaust tips.
I can't help at the moment, sorry bud. I have a full plate between work and kids and life...not to mention my Vulcan's stator is dead! I want to focus on fixing up my Vulcan hopefully this season, 2024, so I can get back to riding in the Spring of 2025. Check out VN750.com and search through old posts to see if you can uncover anything about your issue. Or you can also create a free account and post your question/details/etc. I wish you luck. I think you'll find exactly what you need over at VN750.com...it's the best place on the internet for everything related to these bikes.🙂
Man thanks so much for this video! I rebuilt the carb for my inlaws in their bike and took too long, the order of all these hoses evaporated from my brain. Seriously thanks for making such informative videos. You do a damn good job. Also i saw a comment you replied to someone about a california model evap system and you went above and beyond with little mods you can do. You are the dude, man.
Thank you so much! My stator failed on me this summer, so I'm still accepting that face, but it will also allow me the opportunity to document this in a video series! Reading comments like this give me the confidence needed to tackle the engine tilt/stator replacement job and deliver a high quality video procedure. 🥰
The proper way is to remove the engine like the manual says. One. So you can properly clean all the old gasket material off, but MOST importantly, you do NOT want any old gasket material or ANY Dirt entering the engine!!! Not to mention CUTTING THE GASKET!!!!! I know the dude made a good attempt, but there is no way, NO WAY anyone should ever try this if you value your engine. “Gasket maker” is not needed or recommended by Kawasaki if the correct procedure has been performed. How long do you think this gasket maker will last while mixed with the oily surface (that has not been cleaned) yea, it WILL leak soon.
You're correct, this is not the textbook fix nor is this fix for everyone. Personally I really didn't want to pull the engine just to fix this oil leak. To the credit of this "shortcut fix"...it did work and has stopped oil from leaking on my driveway and garage. I was meticulous throughout the process and am happy with how it came out. It's not going to be permanent and I understand that. This got me back on the road last year when I didn't really have the time or bandwidth to pull the engine. Besides, it's not meant to be a permanent fix and I hope I didn't sell it this way. I'll be pulling the engine later this year 2024 into 2025 to replace my stator. So I'll be fixing this oil leak the "proper way". Truthfully, I'm not much concerned about dirt ingress into the engine. But I will be sending an oil sample for analysis during my Fall-2024 oil change and I will share that here on YT and over at VN750.com, I wonder if anything could show up in the numbers if this oil truly has gotten dirtier as a result of the way I fixed this oil leak. Stay tuned and I appreciate your comment.
Love the channel and hey if you see this, why is my thermostat always cold. Could that be a bad thermostat or is there a blockage in the cooling system?
Thanks! I responded to a similar post over at VN750.com, not sure if that was you. But what I suggested was to change the coolant if you haven't done so already. Then you could always test your thermostat by following this procedure: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ipXEWiLWoL0.html&pp=ygUVdm43NTAgdGhlcm1vc3RhdCB0ZXN0
As someone on a super strict budget, metric cruisers seem to be my best option to get into the riding life. Your videos help a ton, ill be picking up this Vulcan very soon
Awesome! Check out VN750.com if you haven't done so already, that's the best place on the internet for anything you would need about this bike. Speaking of being on a strict budget, that forum can help you troubleshoot (and mod!) so many things on this bike.
No need, I used to have that multi meter! Is it the red 7 function digital multimeter? If so, set the meter to DCV 20. This means the multimeter will measure the DC (direct current) volts up to 20 volts, which is all that's needed for this simple battery test.
I have a Vulcan s 650, how do I know if the fuel cap vent hose is connected to the right port on the tank? I recently had the bike painted and just wanted to be sure when putting them back together. There is a blue dot next to the port closest to the seat on the tank, is that where I should connect the vent line? This hose is just a long hose that runs down by the kickstand, the other hose connects to a couple other things. And I don’t want get them backwards. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. I have a picture showing everything but I’m not sure what order they connect in by looking at it.
@@BobbiWorley-rs1zz Thanks for the comment. The Vulcan 650 S is a cool bike, I really like it! But, I know nothing about it unfortunately. Check out a forum that’s dedicated to the 650. For example, I’ve learned everything I know about the Vulcan 750 from VN750.com. Perhaps there’s a similar forum for the 650?
Where does the clear vent line go? Down and under not connected to anything? I have adhd add dyslexia and all kinds of things too but I don't see it in your video. Would appreciate a full disassemble and reassemble of hoses.
@@sigmalawpenske The clear vent line is the petcock vacuum hose. It goes from the bottom of the petcock to the carburetor on the left side. Yours will most likely be black. The only reason my hose is clear is because my OEM hose had a hole in it, and I replaced it with some clear fuel line. Does this help you?
Hahaha, sure. Want to sponsor this video and get me some K&N air filters? 😁 Check out the coaster and marble mods (two separate mods). Marbling is forcing a marble into the reed valve assembly air hoses of the emissions equipment (I point to it here in this video at 1:52). It helps to prevents deceleration exhaust pops without removing equimpent from the bike. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7sokPDXOhDg.html The coaster mod is removing the reed valve assembly and replacing it with a coaster plate. You also remove the rest of those reed valve assembly hoses, the air suction valve, and then would need 1-2 (I can't remember) crank case breather filters. It also helps to prevents deceleration exhaust pops, but requires removing emissions equimpent from the bike. Both of these mods interrupt the usual operation of the Kawasaki Kleen Air System, which uses a reed valve to inject fresh air into the exhaust stream during the exhaust stroke to help burn off any unburnt fuel. It's a way to help emissions, but the theory is that this is also why the exhausts can be so "poppy". Those pops you hear are actually explosions resulting from the unburnt fuel still left in the exhaust stream combining with the oxygen and then combusting due to the heat in the pipes. Or at least that's how I understand all of this. Here's some reading material for you. Let me know how you make out! www.vn750.com/threads/marbling-coastering.74001/?post_id=961337#post-961337 www.vn750.com/threads/coaster-and-or-marbling-mod.108833/?post_id=1322564#post-1322564 www.vn750.com/threads/help-with-the-marble-mod.104087/?post_id=1275135#post-1275135 www.vn750.com/threads/heres-everything-i-know-about-the-reed-valves-kawasakis-kleen-air-system-aka-pair.108358/?post_id=1316362#post-1316362
Awesome mod.. I am having some starting issues. Sometimes I need to try 3/4 times and hearing a loud noise coming from my exhaust before it starts Overtinking to replace the bougies and the regulator.
Checkout my pickup coil mod video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sKGKjh1L9Ao.html It's a common issue on these Vulcans that can be fixed by adjusting the gap of the pickup coils.
@@CFG750 yeah. I have seen that before. But for my little experience maintaining a bike I find this kinda tricky to do myself.. I will need to gain some trust. Yesterday my bike had issues starting after 80km drive (hot engine)
@@bertoost6391 I understand. Maybe what could help you get more comfortable is first checking the easier things. I kind of rushed right to "pickup coil mod"...but there's other (simpler) things to do first. 😁 How's the battery...is it older than 5-6 years? First check the battery voltage following my procedure here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aJq00g--2so.html Next check the spark plugs. Are they in good condition and gapped accordingly? If these check out, and your engine runs fine other than the hard hot-starts, the next thing you could do is the pickup coil mod. Also feel free to start a post over at VN750.com introducing yourself and your issue. There, myself and the other members can help you out.
Oh no, how'd it break? The only way to get in there and replace the tie rod is to tilt (or otherwise remove the engine) from the frame. Otherwise, there's not enough clearance to get that left side stator/engine case cover off and away from the frame. (You can see this demonstrated in the video link below). Sorry, homie. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-C0inXJeqFMw.htmlsi=KWQf9_hXj21zIwKy&t=514
I have a '93 Vulcan 750 and your videos are amazing! I was wondering if you have changed your signals to LEDS yet? I'm in the process but am having a hard time with the diode install. Most videos are for bikes that have a single lanp for both signals where ours has a left and a right. Any guidance or recommendations would be awesome. Mike
@@mikehenderson7008 Thanks so much for the comment, Mike. I haven’t changed the front turn signals to LED. I was planning on it, since I’ve got an LED headlamp and brake light/rear turn signal combo unit. Just haven’t gotten ‘round to doing it. Create a post over at VN750.com, because over there I and others can show you the wiring diagram, maybe that’ll help with your troubleshooting. Plus, others have done exactly what you’re trying to do, and they’ll be able to help out. ☺️
You can either get a turn signal relocation kit (which is rare to find). Or you can do what I did and get an integrated turn signal/brake light combo kit from eBay: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2332490.m570.l1313&_nkw=Vulcan+750+brake+light+and+turn+signal+LED+combination&_sacat=0 Another option is to get a license plate bracket with turn signals built in.
@@erebusros7807 Dang, that stinks. Try those other options and if you can't find anything, check out VN750.com and search thru historic posts about this same issue. You can also create a new thread and ask for further advice/options. It's an issue a lot of us deal with. 😃
LMAO! I've been there with cars but never my Vulcan. So I don't know what the specifics are with the process for these bikes. But create a thread over at VN750.com and introduce yourself/the issue. Ask for recommendations for spark plug wires and if you have any questions at all as you're doing the repair, come back to that thread and create another post. Me and the other members will help you out!
Hola, mi moto kawasaki Vulcan vn 750 mod 90, cada vez que ago cambio de aceite no me lleva los 4 ltrs, y ya marcó en full el indicador de aceite. Y que aceite me recomienda para mi modelo es 1990, y que bujías? 😊 Muchas gracias siempre miro sus videos.
¡Hola! Gracias por ver mi vídeo. Primero, ¿drenaste todo el aceite? Necesitas drenar el aceite de dos pernos diferentes. Revisa este vídeo: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SeVrmoSNH28.html He usado Motul 10w-40 sintético durante 15,000 millas y aquí hay algunos resultados: www.vn750.com/threads/heres-a-detailed-analysis-of-my-4-000-mile-oil-18k-miles-to-22k-miles.107326/ Pero Motul es caro. Así que cambié a un aceite popular que usan muchos propietarios en VN750.com: Shell Rotella T5 (convencional) o T6 (sintético). Ahora tengo la Rotella T6 en mi bicicleta y cuando haga un cambio de aceite este año, analizaré los resultados y haré un video que muestre las diferencias entre Shell y Motul (espero que no haya ninguna). En cuanto a las bujías, acuda a su proveedor automotriz local y solicite bujías con punta de platino. Ellos le encontrarán el ajuste correcto y estas bujías de platino durarán el resto de la vida útil de la bicicleta. Obtuve bujías de platino en 2020 con 13.000 millas y ahora tengo 31.000 millas. No he necesitado hacer ningún trabajo ni volver a separar estos enchufes.
@@CFG750 muchas gracias por su comentario, una pregunta para checar el llenado de la mirilla del aceite hay que poner el descanso de enmedio? O no es necesario?
I think white lithium grease is fine, I've rocked that on the front splines for 15k miles. But if you're already lubing the drive shaft splines with moly, it's one small extra step to simply pull the driveshaft back (towards the rear of the bike) and lube the front splines like I show here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GxVdLjA07rc.html
I have a different approach and want to hear your thoughts. I think the base issue is an abundance of heat, due to high current, within the junction box, which causes them to melt down. Mine had this exact issue when I bought it. I replaced the junction box, and it works fine. I think the junction box has too many internal high current relays, and this is what causes them to melt. However, if we remove the high current demand from those relays, we could eliminate the main issue and not lose the safety features (neutral cut-off) To do this, purchase a Bosch automotive relay and use the Yellow/Red wire out of the junction box as the trigger wire, connect +12V supply to the battery with a 10AWG wire (fused at 30 amps), ground the relay with 10AWG wire to an existing frame ground, and then connect the Yellow/Red wire going to the starter relay to the load side of the relay. Bosch Relay Connections: 30: +12V fused to battery (10AWG) 85: Ground to frame (10AWG) 86: Yellow/Red from Junction box (trigger) 87: Yellow/Red to starter relay (load)
First off, you're spot on with the Junction Box. I've read on VN750.com that the JB is prone to failures, and it could be for the very reason you list! It makes sense to me. You should share this idea/mod over at VN750.com. There, other members and experts can chime in. Maybe one day I'll make a video how-to procedure for this mod. 😛
@@jairolenfers Thank you so much for the comment and the feedback. I’m glad it worked out for you! This is one of my favorite mods, along with the regulator relocation, I had a lot of fun with that one too. ✌️
@@erebusros7807 I just adjusted my rear shock dampers this morning to remind myself of how hard it "should be". It should really be able to twist with only light force. Perhaps something is rusted or worn with your shocks. What number are the shocks on now? As long as they are the same on the left/right side, that's the most important part. Other than that, apparently the rear shock dampener settings don't really change the feeling of the bike all too much. www.vn750.com/threads/adjusting-rear-shocks.20001/
@@erebusros7807 I see. You can try using more force to twist the rear shocks. Worst case scenario is that the shock is damaged/seized but replacement ones should be readily available: www.ebay.com/b/Shocks-for-Kawasaki-Vulcan-750/178042/bn_21209105 You can also try removing one shock at a time and maybe you'll have a better chance at adjusting it off the bike? If you're looking for more ideas, create a post over at VN750.com. Introduce yourself, your bike, and the issue. Describe as much as you can and the other members there + myself will be able to provide more insight. I've never heard of this issue.
Hello my friend, did this change of placing the voltage regulator outside solve the problem of the motorcycle not starting when hot? I saw in some forums that people replace the wire with a thicker one, but I liked your adaptation.
Nope, this only helps with reducing the operating temperature of the R/R by ~20-30 degrees F. It will also make the R/R easier to access/test/replace. If you're having issues with starting (especially when the engine is hot), make sure you got some good (and properly gapped spark plugs), the battery is good and it should be an AGM, and lastly if you're still struggling with the hot start issue (as I was)...then look into the Pickup coil mod: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sKGKjh1L9Ao.html&pp=ygUVdm43NTAgcGlja3VwIGNvaWwgbW9k
@@CFG750 Thank you for the response. I took my bike to the mechanic today and asked him to do it just like you mentioned in this video. Thank you very much!
Do you have a radiator pressure tester? I think I have your same manual but it's not specific about what type of fitting is compatible with the cap/filler neck
Thanks for your vids. I have the same bike.When i change my cam chain tentioner. Do i need to make sure its on top dead center please let me know thanks.
@@jarrodcraft219 The general consensus is that you DON’T need to have the engine at TDC. There shouldn’t be enough tension in the system to move the cam chain when you remove the tensioner. Plus, only do one tensioner at a time.
@@tiff9137 Thanks homie. I had fun making this one and seeing just how much oil came out from that bottom crank bolt! I didn’t put on a crush washer, but I’ll make a new oil change video to better show the process and also mention (and show) what kind of crush washer to get. 😜
Just wanted to say thank you for your video. It solved my problem. I appreciate it. I did exactly what you did in the video. My light works. The bike even runs better. I can’t explain it.Thank y’all
You are very welcome. Thank you for the comment, I love that my video helped you out so much! Another thing to consider: if you suffer from the "hot-start" issue (engine is uncharacteristically hard to start when it's already at operating temps), check out my pickup coil mod video. It's easily one of my favorite mods I've done to the Vulcan and now it starts up almost instantly!
They’re actually just the OEM pipes that the previous owner had removed the chrome shielding from, chopped out the expansion chamber (aka goats belly), and added some aftermarket exhaust tips from amazon.
I’ll be better able to help over at VN750.com. Create a free profile and introduce yourself and the issue. There, myself and the other forum members will be able to help you out. That website is the best place on the internet for everything s out the Vulcan 750. 🤌
Just did both of these mods! To my 05 VN 750 12k miles (just preventative) Seems to work great! Although my headlight indicator light only works intermittently or now after the mod when I’m cranking to start. Any thoughts? Thanks man great video!
My headlamp indicator light doesn’t turn on while I’m cranking. The only dash lights I see while I’m cranking is the green neutral indicator and the red oil light.
@@WelcomeRythm I just checked myself (it’s so hot here in the US (95F) that I didn’t need any choke and the engine started almost immediately). Anyways, the blue “high beam” indicator only comes on when your hibeam headlamp is on. The white “headlamp” indicator only comes on if your headlight is burnt out…or possibly if you have an LED headlamp? Although I’m unsure of that second part. I have an LED headlamp and haven’t had that issue. So other than the red oil light and green neutral indicator light, no other lights should be on
@@CFG750 ohhh right on yeah weird when I’m cranking it illuminates but when at idle (right now) only the green neutral light is on as you say that’s a good tip that that light comes on if its out! I also upgraded to a led but I don’t think that’s the issue either way the bike runs great and working way better with these mods! If you’re ever in Alaska let’s ride! Edit: oddly enough this next morning where I plug my bike in every night because of these aftermarket speakers I kept the trickle charger hooked up and started it then noticed headlight was on so while in high idle (choke) I took off the charger and the the headlight indicator stayed illuminated (my led headlight was on) until I dropped the idle down so seems to be connected to the stator out put but hmm maybe just bad wiring! lol sorry for the long story with no periods thanks man!
@@CFG750update as i lay here on a checkered floor garage funny enough! I found out my bike was running at 12.6 volts (no stator) and would continually go down until the headlamp light comes on with low voltage! Laying in the ground trying to change my stator without cutting apart my motor or frame! XD Thanks for the video and tips ill tell ya how this goes 😂
Hey you doing alright? Been a while since you uploaded. Getting ready to slap on some $15 front brake pads on my 750. Looking into doing the clutch too, feel it could be better. At 28k miles or so. What's up with you?
Hey Nightpwner, all is well, just been super busy that's all. I do have a long list of YT videos I want to make about the Vulcan 750! It's just been tough to find the time to ride let alone film videos recently. Anyways, I am slightly concerned about brake pads that are so cheap. Make sure you're comfortable with the quality of pads you're going to install, that's all I'll say. As for clutch, I'm still rocking the original clutch at 30k miles.
@@CFG750 Ah, perks of living in FL lol. Revzilla sells the pair for $60 but I thought I'd just try these since everything is made in China anyways. I think from Kawi it's like $100 for the pair. Nah. Good to know about your clutch, maybe I'll just keep it going with mine then too.
@@MrNightpwner If the clutch ain't broke, don't worry about replacing anything. Unless you're looking for work to do. 😁 I remember hearing on the VN750.com forum that the clutch pack in these bikes is robust.
Just got one. What’s the deal with the choke lever on the left side? Is that used in the starting process? I didn’t hear anything about it in the video
Oops, forgot to mention the most important part, the choke! Yeah, I use full choke until the engine starts running on its own. Then I gradually reduce the choke u til the engine can run smoothly on its own. ✌️
@@csvalerius If you haven't done so already, and if you wanted to do any further investigating yourself, create a post over at VN750.com describing the issue as best you can. There, myself and the other members could help you out. I, also, had carb issues when I first got my Vulcan in 2020. The previous owner installed straight pipes but never adjusted the carb jetting...so when the engine would get up to operating temps it would idle at 3kRPM! I had a shop rejet and also rebuild my carb with all new gaskets. I've never done carb work on the Vulcan yet.
Love that brake light mod. I had added running LED rings that got brighter when the brakes were applied to my rear signals but what you did looks really sharp.
Thanks! I do also want additional turn signals back there. What sort of LED rings did you have? Perhaps one day I'll get some extra lighting added and make a video about that.
@@CFG750 I think I ordered them from JP Cycle. It's been almost 20 ago though. I do remember that installation was super easy. I had to glue the rings to the inside of the signal lenses and then tie the wiring in with the tail light itself. Took all of 30 to 45 minutes and they were really bright when on and super bright when you hit the brakes. Besides removing the goats belly it was probably the best mod I ever did on her.
Rode one year round for 16 years, 65k miles, my wife nicknamed her my mistress. It was my first bike. So much character, power and had all the looks and sound of a much more premium machine. Sold her to a close friend with good mechanical knowledge of older carbed bikes and she's still racking up miles. Yours looks amazing. Even though I don't have her anymore your channel take me back to those good times with my old girl. Thank you for giving this 70's kid a nostalgia trip. This was an awesome video.
I'm a late 80's kid myself, and something I appreciate more as I get older is the power of nostalgia. Lord Little Bits, I'm so glad to have given you this nostalgia trip. Thanks for your comment. ☺
@@CFG750 Yeah nostalgia is one helluva drug. It's a big reason I ended up getting the Z900RS Cafe. If you look at pictures of the instrument cluster it's old retro style gauges. Swinging a leg over and looking at the display instantly brought me back. Felt like a connection to the past. There's other styling cues of old but that sold me.
@@LordMcKrakenVonLittleBits The Z900RS Cafe is a cool bike, and I love that instrument cluster. IMO it’s the best way to do a tachometer. Make it a circle and keep it simple. 😉
When you check your speedo cable, leverage this video here at this time stamp: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-P7vPJkLE5PU.htmlsi=ulI4IgIg5B-4Pvk1&t=358 How is the condition of the end of your cable and those "prongs"? Feel free to post pics over at VN750.com for myself and the other members to look at for you.
