@jjbust0414 next 3 things are, powerpack, stator or trigger. You'll need to pull the flywheel to get to the stator and trigger. The power packs go out regularly on these engines. It's a gamble. But ifbi was going to bet on one if the 3, I would start with the power pack.
I’ve got a question?! Just purchased a boat with same engine and it feels sluggish like it needs almost full throttle to move the boat forward. Any suggestions on what could be?! Thanks
Worst part about outboards is bad gas causing rubber fuel component death. You must replace all old rubber fuel lines, ALL OF THEM, use stihl brand hoses and submersible rated gas fuel line specifically. AND then you must check for air leaks, because clamps will not all clamp and there are other dodgy parts like plastic fuel line manifold splitters that crack and leak. ALL rubber lines, even the scavenging lines, choke lines, and vacuum lines. ALL OF THEM. Yes diaphragm too should be replaced. Your main thing is air leaks and fuel leaks, tiny leaks will wreck the normal smooth operating of all these cursed shottilly engineered outboards. REPLACE ANY HARD GASKET, check with fingernail, if you cant smush it, replace it so it can seal. Hard on hard surfaces DONT SEAL, so you have to check this with carb bowl seals and fuel pump seals. Your timing, and linkages and carbs are probably all right. the jets get clogged on carbs, dont replace them, clean them, then REPLACE ALL RUBBER FUEL LINES AND RUBBER FUEL PARTS THEN check for air leaks with a simple vaccuum gauge which those are cheap and you can rent them. When floats are up when gas is full in carburetor, you should be able to pressurize the system to 5 psi. Pressurize after bulb where line goes into tank, just where you put pressure in to check leaks. You can use stainless steel aircraft lock wire, to twist and seal very tight all of the connections. On my boat this is nessesary, the tank pickup barb is not standard, it doesnt clamp tight or evenly enough with stainless hose clamps, or zip ties, or plastic tooth clamps. You have to really cinch it tight with the stainless steel wire, twist it up tight. GO around hose twice then twist tight while pulling. This way is better than any type of clamp as far as sealing goes. Also, use a dab of silicone grease around the quick disconnect, those ALWAYS have the potential to leak. They want you to buy a brand new one every season and then, they have such bad quality parts, they leak and leave you stranded or pissed off that day as it wasted time and rescources getting out on the water. This is actually best advice, follow all of it, and you will have a good running motor. Replace all rubber fuel parts and or gaskets. Check air leaks, check hose clamps. Buy brand new proper size hose clamps, not ones that have been bent up. Not oversized ones either. Or use stainless lock wire, and get good at that. Its just about that simple.
anyone doing this job, my last bottom screw rounded out. So frustrating. Make sure you crack loose all the black round torx head bolts first [as I'm not doing with all future projects] that way you know you can get them loosened off before you strip or round off the torx bit. Think I realized why the last bolt always gets stripped, bc the materials to make the tools and the nuts n bolts suck, so the tools get worn and it's just enough that the cheap soft material is the nuts n bolts round off too. Hence, there's not a fkn problem. So aggravating. They should just make stuff right instead of skimpin. Cheap bastards. Trying for extreme profits effects other people's productivity. Does your bottom latch function properly?
I have had the mercury silver.gray color fuel line do this as well,, ( mercury fuel line with red writing on the fuel line) not only does it collapse , but the plastic compounds that dissolve from the liner will also plug up everything they pass through , and they can easly get through most fuel filters in dissolved form.
I’m curious to know if you had any input on a jack plate for these boats? I just picked up a 2000 189 ST. I’m going to re-power with a Tohatsu 140. I just want to be able to get the motor up while running skinny. Not sure a bout setback?
Cmc high speed jack plate. Or the new bobs jack plate. A super tunnel will run in 8 inches of water on plane and jacked up with a good 4 blade stainless prop. But they do need about 18" to get up on hard bottom and you get away with less water if it's a soft bottom.
That is the sound the warning system makes to let you know the warning system is working. Next you should ground the tan wires coming off the temp sensors with the key on and see if it alarms.
Hey buddy I have a96 procraft 200dc with a four blade lazer prop but with the 200 merc it will only run about 40-45. Do you have any suggestions on which prop to buy to get the most power/speed.
