This channel is meant to help guide students of all ages in the knowledge surrounding industrial technology and related fields. Mr. Kongable is a licensed teacher in the state of Iowa, holding a bachelors degree in Industrial Technology Education and a Masters degree in Educational Instruction.
Thank you so much! I'm trying to build a basic slanted frame to put a shade clothe or eventually some of that plastic roofing on. So i greatly appreciate it! Lol now i just have to figure out how to figure out the cut angle before i cut them! My tall side is 12 and my short is 8 feet... I don't think it should be to awful to figure out lol 😅 yeah I suck at math!
Sweet modifications! I never thought of the “wire slot” idea! (Don’t worry I’m not gonna try it) 😝, but you’ve definitely got me thinking about alternatives to junk batteries! 👍😎👍 Thanks Mr. Kongable! ⚡️⚡️⚡️⚡️⚡️
Quite a few issues with the methods shown. 1 - Always locate off the fixed jaw not the moving one. Then the Y axis remains at zero regaedless of the part width. 2- The recommended speed for the edgefinder is 500 rpm, some types edgefinders will destroy themselves at 1000rpm and this high speed can make them bounce off the work. Always check the spindle speed before turning it on for this reason. 3 - Good practice is to always minimise tool stickout even with edgefinders, the demonstration was waaay too far out from the spindle nose. 4 - Do not have the quill extended if possible, certainly not as far as the demonstration. This eliminates any out of tram and is more accurate. 5 - With a dro it is not necessary to take up the slop when positioning the workpiece. This is a practice from when the dial scales were used for positioning. With a dro it can be approached from either direction. 6 - Tap soft materials with a softer mallet. The lead one will mark the part and the hard impact can make the part bounce back off the parallels. Ideally a hide or plastic mallet would have been far better. 7 - The edgefinder is designed to work even if the chuck has runout, it is not more accurate in a collet. If the next operation was drilling using the chuck would save a toolchange and a lot of winding of the knee handle. A bonus is that the cutting zone will be at a similar spindle position to where the edgefinder was used. Apologies to all the Toolmakers for stating the blindingly obvious.
You need to put the stair gauges on the other side of the framing square so you don't have to do any testing to get it exactly where you want the cuts to be.
You can put them on the other side, but putting them on the inside will put more of the square on the board and keep it from tipping off the board. I would also check the marks if the gauges are on the outside of the square , just to make sure it’s exactly what you want. Thanks for watching
@@mr.kongable I got you. I was thinking the price was expensive as many conceal this not mentioning the price because it deters people's interest of purchase. If an expensive price is revealed at the start Thanks
Thank you very much. I search many places to find out what exactly is the meaning of this numbers. Everybody say higher number means finer finish. You are the only one telling very clearly 80 means 80 grains per square inch.❤❤
I would be reluctant to recommend this for someone else either. Having said that I have done a few sketchy things. I am curious if the battery will affect the life of the electric motor. Thank you Mr Kongable.
Thanks man. I would also note that sometimes you can tell the wood is saturated (and sealed) At the point where it is not soaking in anymore, I stop. If Im treating an axe handle and every day I come back and its dry, I go again. But if I come back and its just wet on the surface, I call time. I would add that I use 50:50 boiled linseed oil and turpentine substitute. Thanks for the video mate.
