@@Goinbig I agree, the more I looked at it with the suburban doors, I thought I'd rather have full size rear doors too and actually made the change in my second video. I also made the rear doors into suicide openings.
Hello, "Modern Too Classic Auto Designs Paul" I saw your channel and saw that in your channel have some problems, not many. For these problems your channel is not growing. If you can solve these problems, Your channel will grow like a storm. Do you want to know these problem? If you Want to know, I can only tell to you. Can I tell here or email?
Hey man! I am working on replacing the full front floor (without the step up) on a 71 blazer. Is it as simple as just dropping it in and welding the edges? Seems like it will be easier without the step up but I'm just not 100% sure how the braces under the new floor are going to get in the way of dropping it in. I braced the door opening with him joints on each end so I can open and close the opening somewhat to give me a little space. Hoping I can open it enough to be able to drop that floor in. Any info you can give me would be great! I was hoping you had a video showing the install of the floor. I bet that would help out a ton of people! Thank man.
@@CamdenLee-g6t Hey, thanks for watching the video. I have a video just about ready that goes over most of the steps for installing the new floor. I'll try and get it out later today. If you're doing the front floor, it doesn't come with the rocker boxes and outter rocker panels so you'll have to weld those in separately. At the end of the rocker box is the end cap and inner reinforcement that's bolted to the rear floor and front floor so those will be pretty easy to take off but the rocker box and rocker get welded to the new floor. If you have any other questions hit me up and I'll finish up that video later today, hopefully that helps out for you
Did you have to cut the new inner rockers at all? I have a new aftermarket front floor and bottom front corners inside of doors hits inner rocker before the outer rocker is even on the truck...😅
@@steeldrivercustoms6920 yes, you sometimes have to cut all that to fit. I actually have a update on another blazer I'm doing, and I go over that very sane problem and show where I had to cut everything. I should upload that video layer this week
@@danielfiske9849 thanks for watching. I'm hoping to get back on it in the next couple months. Tough to find time for my personal projects with all my client and Barrett jackson builds. This is definitely my favorite build so it's killing me not to work on it at the moment
@@danielfiske9849 I'm just on the tail end of finishing a 1969 charger restoration. After that I'm going all in on this build and finishing it. So hopefully I'll be back on it in January. Coil over front suspension, duramax/allison drive train, 2 tone with the body mouldings exterior and a crazy interior. It's killing me to look at this truck in my shop right now haha
@@Kinknowsmore hey, thanks for watching the video. A typically restoration basically starts at around 300 hours, I charge $70 a hour. That's taking the vehicle apart, sandblasting it to bare metal, primer, bodywork, gapping out all the panels back on the vehicle, then painting and reassemble. Paint and all the materials can cost anywhere from $5k-$12k. So many variables go into it so no build is exactly the same. For example, you can buy a gallon clear coat much cheaper for around $100 but it doesn't have the Uv protection from the sum and will break down and fail eventually. The clear I use from ppg is $700 a gallon so you can do a restoration cheaper but at what cost is the question. Hopefully this helps you out
@@louiz18938 Hey, this took me about a day to build and another day and a half for prep and paint. I charge $70 a hour plus materials. So around $1400 labor give or take a couple hours for a ballpark
@@richardlinden4015 I used the orginal B-Pillar from this suburban cab. Same would go for a normal regular cab if you wanted to convert that. You would just take the rear cab skin off the reinforce the B-Pillar where the striker plate is and set your hinges there. You can buy a new A-Pillar for like $300 and that would have the hinge bolt holes in it. I went with a suicide so my hinges are in the very back
Phenomenal everything! I wouldn't want to hurt anyone's feelings everything is beautiful. I'd pay the 50 60 70 k that these new trucks are for this one! At least I could work on it!
Get some duck brand duct tape. 2 layers, it does the same thing. Covering it up and NOBODY KNOWS. I've done it on two high end cars that sold at high end auctions
Hey! Thanks for watching the video. I used a 4L80 transmission and got the adapter from Advanced Adapters. They always seem to be out of stock so I would call them at least 2-3 months beforehand if you're planning on going that route. Hit me up with any other questions you might have
I have a supplier here in town that I use most of the time otherwise I'll use raybuck auto parts or classic industries. LMC is not a bad option either, just make sure when you order, that you call and verify it's in stock. I had a couple situations where it says in stock on their website then after I pay, I find out its backordered
Have a few questions. I have a 70 shortbed truck. Is it the same as a blazer. Can I convert and make the blazer top fit etc. or would it be better to get a long bed?
Have a few questions. I have a 70 shortbed truck. Is it the same as a blazer. Can I convert and make the blazer top fit etc. or would it be better to get a long bed?
Yes, a short bed or long bed can be converted to a blazer. If you have fabricating skills, the short bed can be used as the blazer bedside by cutting the front part of the bed and making it part of the door jamb and the rear floor is the same, you just have to add the holes for the rear seat frame. Easier way is to buy the blazer bedsides and they'll bolt right up. You'll need the rocker boxes and the other 2 inner structure parts to make your cab a blazer. Cut the rear of the cab off, mover the bed forward so the door closes on the bedside...you're just eliminating the cab corner...I'm probably rambling but if you're serious, hit me up and I'll help you along the way in more detail
I am very serious. I am an early bronco guy for years and own a shop as well. My fabrication is pretty good as well. I wasn’t sure of shortbed dimensions and I already own a 71 top, so wanted to be sure before I secured this shortbed truck, that it would do the trick. Very good videos by the way.
The best online parts for blazers is raybuck auto parts or classic industries. Either one is pretty good but raybuck seems to have more parts I'm stock.
Yo Pauly, Is that a 1 piece billet grill and surround? Looks like it has an awesome chrome finish on it. So much better than aluminum. I wish they were as rigid as the grills from the 50's when they were made out of steel.
Hey Paul, Your humor is so heartwarming. Are you sure your not from Brooklyn?? Back in the day. Yea Right, Ha. Back in the day I can remember when Rocky opened up in the Marlborough Movie Theatre in Brooklyn. Even though Rocky's hood was Philly, that movie sure had the Old Neighborhood abuzz with Italian pride. Everybody was talking about Rocky. I bring that up because guess who talks like Rocky?? Yours Truly, Paul Iaquinta. You sound like your from my Old Hood. Yo Pauly!!! Any good calzones out there in Phoenix?
That's hilarious. When I was 19, in the summers I did wildland firefighting. We repelled out of helicopters into forest fires. When we were training, my caption would always joke and say ,'catch the chicken Rock,' ....to me and everyone always had a laugh about that. Your comment reminded me of that, good times
Damn this makes me sick. Told a woman in Seattle I'll buy her truck, a '77 F250 with 40K miles and gave her my cell and home #'s, and email. Don't you know she sold it to someone else for $1500 less than what I said I would pay which was her advertised price. She never replied to me when I asked her to look for another one for me. I can only hope that it was not as good as it looked. Paul did a Great job on this F150. When that time comes, I will be sending mine to Paul. Not just for his excellent work, but also because he is such a down to earth guy. 100%
Hey Bro, I was going to comment about the build but that can wait until the next video. When my Dad passed 9 years ago, everything stopped for me. I don't know what it was but I could never get back to where I was. Through all the Shi? that goes on in life, when your Dad leaves you it's as if a part of you leaves with him. I have had an experience where I know for a fact that there is more after this life. You will see your Dad once again as I will see mine. Yes, life sure does suck at times but there are great memories in life that will help you and all cope with that burden. Peace Paul, See you in the next video. Gerry
Hey Paul, What I don't understand is that this video was viewed 4192 times and your subscribers are only at 1,320.??? What gives RU-vid???Why should your success alone depend on subscribers. It should also include views per videos. Not every RU-vid channel is about 2 lesbian girls living in a van. LOL You say you did a crappy job on the video. Hey, your just starting out and they will get better. You hit a niche part of the true fabricators. The ones who are just starting out or the home grown mechanic who has a rig to restore. They are tackling it for any reason and you hit the home run with them. Keep doing what your doing. I love the content and wish I had the coglionis to hop on a plane, bang on your door and say hire me. What I wouldn't give to learn what you know and do what you do. How many other RU-vid channels get endorsements like this? Lets do more K5 builds and if you find a K5 project that not too far gone, hit me up with that info. I'll buy the project and let it be another 20 or so videos for your channel. Peace Brother.
That's awesome! Thank you for the support, definitely means a lot. My buddy's tell me that I should hire a stripper so she can be in the thumbnail and in the background in the videos and then I'd get more views lol. I just might
Hey Paul, I know this is 3 years later, but currently there is a 72 K5 Blazer on Craigs list, built by JK Lanier of Killer Customs and he was nervous about putting his build in Barrett Jackson. I don't know if he was down to the wire like you were, but he is asking $175,000. It's a beautiful build but I'm sure every piece of sheetmetal was not replaced as yours was. I'd love to know what your cost to build was for alll the work you did. You look satisfied with the amount. Good for you.
Hey, thanks for watching the videos. Glad they helped out with some insight for you. Typically if I'm replacing all the floors and replacing lots of panels from rust, it's about 300-600 hours of bodywork and paint at $70 a hour. These builds can get out of control pretty quick if they're not managed correctly. That black blazer I sold for $126k, back then blazers were just breaking the six figure mark so it was a top ten sell at the Barrett. Now people are putting so much time and money, it's hard to tell what the market is because of the different tiers. Stock frame, 6.2Ls, 4L80E, big brakes, frame off restoration with the labor all included with the parts basically starts at $60-80k with you providing the truck, or any vehicle for that matter. If you buy a new blueprint engine, add another $10k on the premium, if you do coilover suspension, add anther $15k if you add a roadstershop frame, add $60k, if you want the frame show room finished add another $12k labor...just depends on what you're looking for. All the blazers and c10, k10s that are bringing over $200k have superchargers, coilover shocks, showroom restoration so obviously they have a lot more invested in the build. Let me know if you have any other questions and hopefully I answered this one without getting too over the top technical
Your painting of the frame looks as good as having it powder coated. I've seen painted frames and the finished product looks like it was rattle canned. What paint did you use for the frame? Any primer first? Your Damn Good. Thumbs Up Baby.
I know I'm a little late to your party but I hope you get the bigger shop you have talked about. I'd rather watch a one man band Jack of All Trades than these other Bulllshit WannaBees who do a lot of talking and show what others have done. You are so damn Skilled. Power On Bro!
Wow!! You have Collision repair running through your veins. A Jack of all trades and with the smarts to bring these Blazers back from the dead. If I was a little younger I would hit you up to sweep your shop floor just to learn all your repair knowledge. Your putting it out there sure helps the owners of these rigs that need parts they couldn't find and you totally restored their confidence to be able to finish their truck. Giving your know how on RU-vid is phenomenal. Especially in this crazy after Covid world. Bravo Brother. Just Plain Bravo!!!
I was looking at Duramax swapping my C30 and I eventually figured out that the parts to swap it were more than what I paid for my C30 and my Duramax donor truck combined... Currently looking for a 12V Cummins
That's what I've been hearing too. I also noticed all the duramax and cummings swaps didn't do well at the Barrett Jackson this year so I'm still trying to figure out what's best in case I run it through the auction. My consigner at the Barrett told me to stay away from diesel all together because it limits your market, so I'm all over the place. Thanks for the feedback
@@moderntooclassicautodesign8676 I'm inclined to believe him, I'm also considering an 8.1 because it will see a lot of time hooked to a trailer. I would've loved to have the Duramax in there and Precision Fab has really nice parts but it's not in the cards for me right now.
