1972 K5 Blazer full floor replacement part 2 

Thanks for watching the videos. Hopefully it help you out

Hey, so I would do the floor first, once the front and rear floor is set, I would do the bedsides, after the bedsides I would put the top back on it because that will help hold the windshield pillar. Next I would put the outter rockers. To fit the rockers, you'll have to hang the door, so there will be a lot of putting the door on and taking it off. The rockers sometimes get distorted so if the rocker is touching the door once everything is set, and you feel like there's no more adjustment in moving the rocker down, you can take the rocker back off and bend it to fit, where you would basically squeeze it together so the top and bottom of the rocker are closer so that will give you more room for the bottom of the door to clear. Once the bedsides, rocker and door all fit, then I would finish the underneath with the rocker boxes, and the 2 other supports. I would leave the top on till all the innerstucture is totally welded out. If you have any more questions feel free to hit me up on here or Google my business Modern too Classic Auto Designs and get my number...not sure about giving it out on here. Happy to help along the way. Just remember aftermarket parts are good but don't expect them to just fall into place. Good luck and keep me posted on the progress

@@moderntooclassicautodesign8676 I was wondering about the rockers. I’ve done rockers on several vehicles and have yet to find any that actually fit without having to cut them up. So, I install the outer rockers to hold the b-pillar/door gap then install the rocker boxs. Got it. Thanks again. I’ll definitely hit your website. Thanks again.

Hi, thanks for watching the video. Yeah, it can definitely be done. I know if you want to convert a long bed to a short bed, you have to cut 12" out of the frame either behind the cab or under the cab, then 8" behind the rear axle. A blazer is roughly another 5" or so shorter...I haven't got the exact measurements off the top of my head. If you measure from the rear of the door to the start of the bedside, that'll be pretty close to a blazers setup because the blazer door closes on the bedsides where a truck is on the cab corner, so you're just eliminating the cab. I'm not sure about the trailing arms vs leaf springs but after you measure everything you'll have a better idea. Let me know if you have anymore questions along the way. I'm happy to help

Also, the rear floor for a blazer is available and can bolt up to a truck floor with some drilling to the orginal floor for the bolts or you can butt weld it

Hi, thanks for watching. You can get them online from Raybuck auto parts. They carry a bunch of sheetmetal and innerstucture parts, also classic industries is another good one. Let me know if there's any other questions you might have along the way, happy to help

Great content. I’m working on a 1974 and can’t find the rocker box for either side do you know where I could find them or what the difference is to a 72?

Hey! Thanks. I actually just moved my business into a bigger shop so I'm a little behind on making that video so hopefully in the next month or so I'll get to it. Thanks for watching

@@moderntooclassicautodesign8676 Congrats on the new shop. If I ever can get to Arizona I would love to stop by. Thx for replying. Sometimes I will ask a question on other channels and never get a response. So, Thank You. I look forward to watching more of all your vids..

Hey! Thanks for watching. It's just a different color e coat, not sure why but that's how I got it from the dealer. I'll sandblast everything once I'm done with all the fitting and start with clean metal to reduce any variables in the painting process.

I've read in some descriptions that it's a weld through coating but I've not personally witnessed it.

Hey, thanks for watching. I should have a new video on the c50 coming in the next couple weeks. Getting ready to suicide the rear doors and show all the sheetmetal work