Max amps is not the same as inrush amps on a meter. But it’s close enough to tell you how good a job it is doing. Typically I see 25-30% of original inrush, so you’re right where you’re supposed to be. Good job. Yes, they are made for outdoors. I just put a little foil tape “shed roof” to keep the sun and rain off of it.
with rust dust like that u need to clean out and coat the fuel tank or replace it or cleaned carbs will get clogged again. u must clean the small filters above the float seats. boiling jets and other brass parts in water with some lemon juice for 10 minutes will bring back the brass color. also, its a HUGE MISTAKE to use ANY silicone sealer on float bowls.
I cant say. Only that I bought that belt and it fit. That was quite a while ago. I will say that it is extremely tight and it took several hours of use before it broke in .
a true expert DiYer, you make the rest of us jealous sir, i know enough to fix hvac and my wifes dryer, even wired my own offgrid Van with renogy equipment and lived a year offgrid on 400w/1000ah. EVERYTHING you said i understood and im still terrified and impressed.
So on these concours the Stock air Box is the killer of Power it dosent work wirh the motor went to pods .went up 10on Main jets 2 on pilot gained 15 horsepower
Are you grid tied or off grid? Question regarding pass-through: When the house load exceeds the AC output of the inverter (supply from battery or solar or both), does the inverter passthrough the grid completely? Or does the inverter passthrough only the incremental power from grid? Example: If house load goes from 10kw to 17kw, will it passthrough all of the 17kw from grid? or just the additional 5kw from grid (17kw load - 12kw output rating) . Thank you
It is incremental. you set the inverter to on grid mode, it will supplement the deficiencies of the battery/solar with the grid. The call it grid assist.
Yes this would have been a great tachometer except for the voltage regulator used in these Hondas is a shunt regulator. When the voltage gets too high it just shorts it to ground and the signal disappears entirely. You could make this work if you changed the regulator to a series regulator.
Mi interessa poter gestire con Arduino nano o Mega le funzioni della centralina auto\moto (il minimo necessario). Come gestisco il feedback e così via per utilizzare un corpo farfallato per i miei scopi motoristici? Grazie mille. I'm interested in being able to manage the functions of the car\motorcycle control unit with Arduino nano or Mega (the minimum necessary). How do I handle feedback etc to use a throttle body for my motorsport purposes? A thousand thanks.
This inverter is illegal to install in a residential application because it is not UL9540 certified. Watch the RU-vid video titled "6000xp is not UL9540 certified. YOU CANNOT LEGALLY install in the US along with solar panels." Better hope that your municipality doesn't find out about your illegal installation.
I tried that with an LS throttle body and found that it bounced to much, never could get code to control it accurately enough. Any suggestions, have you ever shared code?
In my code, I first find the full open and full closed positions by pulsing the stepper motor. By using the throttle- rpm lookup table, convert % opening into a voltage target for the position. Then, move in that direction one step per pass through the main loop. When I get within one step of the destination, I switch to a target that is within +-5 of the actual target. That stops the buzzing noises when sitting on position.
I just found your thread on the speeduino forums - this video is seriously underrated - I've got a set of ZX6R throttle bodies for an EFI conversion and you've just covered exactly what I need to know with respect to the secondary butterfly control. Actually quite surprised at the resistance you encountered on the speeduino forums - I had no issue understanding your objective and intended goals with this. The manufacturers have obviously used this setup for good reason - mapping the movement(s) - opening amounts versus engine RPM, TPS, MAP or whatever other factors influence the the secondary throttle plates in the OEM configuration will obviously be a challenge, but doable I think. Congratulations on getting it working on the bench.
Sincerely appreciate you documenting and sharing your project with everyone. Good work Gerard. I realize it has been a while since you posted your video however I recently purchased one of EG4’s racks and 4 of their LL batteries from Signature Solar and will be installing them in an older off-grid system shortly. The LiFePo batteries are replacing an old FLA battery bank. I had a question as to the socket wrench you insulated to work on the bus-bar connections. Did you find this necessary? It would seem that if the batteries are off, the breakers are in the off position and the cables are connected to the bus bar first then the battery terminals, with the batteries off, the risk for any shorts to the rack frame would seem to be non-existent. Just curious if I should follow your lead here.
Really, I was a novice, and insulating the wrench wasn't necessary, but I was over cautious. It's a long journey, but now I am totally off grid.The performance over this coming summer will tell me if my system is big enough to export any excess to the grid.
I kept my original 12 V system with three solar panels and some lead acid AGM batteries for backup. A good tip for everyone, do as much of the wiring connections outside on the bench, then stick it up underneath there.
Did this pass an inspection? I don't see any plastic bushings. You would also be required to run a 4 wire to and from your power shed. Sealing locknuts or a hub would be required for the penetrations into both the panel and the transfer switch on the upper conduit minimum.
In my area you were never allowed to install a meter socket under a window so being that I nevet came across only a small AC disconnect under a window doubt if a large panel like this would be legal.
The only spec I can find in the NEC is section 230 #C. Specifying the location of conductors around building openings. There are no conductor accessible here. Everything is in the box or conduit. I don't think this will be an issue.
@@gerrypineau Our local utility company had what they called the " Blue Book " a 5 by 7" maybe 120 page booklets that I believe had not be allowed to Install a meter socket under a window. Book now is only available over the internet. Biggest joke with this very large electrical provider they had a post card that you filled out for them to send you updated. Probably mailed them 6 of these pre paid post cards over a 35 year period and never received a single update. Can remember my dad finding out about an update after he failed a 100 amp service upgrade that he was never notified of a change. Electrical inspector told him not to feel bad because he failed every new service the first week of change until word got around.
All good. Usually discussions like this are best shown with a detailed 1-Line (or 3-line) showing Ground and Neutral connection points, because folks get confused on that. Did you go with Copper on the wire? Direct Burial Aluminum will generally do the job fine and save some money. Thanks.
It's really simple. It uses the 240 volt line from the grid and the inverter to get the actuator solenoid to pick. On the switch there are 2 terminals for each input and 2 terminals for the output. N1-N2 are for primary source, E1-E2 are for the secondary source. T1-T2 are the output terminals. On the left of the switch is the switching mechanism with terminals A1-A2 B1-B2. Connect A1 -> N1, Connect A2 > Pushbutton Switch pin1, Connect other side of the switch to N2. This switch used to select Primary as the source. Connect B1-> E1, Connect B2 to pushbutton switch pin1, Connect the other side of the switch to E2. This switch is used to select the backup as the source. The indicator lights are a little more let me know if you want ot know how to hook them up.
Can you also list the source of your Push Buttons and Voltage meters? What did the original box look like that came with the switch? This is a 200-amp mechanism?
Thank you. I have been looking for a switch that would do this. I would like to build one that disconnects from the grid if the power is down but can also be controlled by the state of the batteries and inverter.
Unfortunately Those heaters put out a lot of condensation and in a short time, the lower bends in that radiator will fill with water, blocking exhaust completely. Look closely at the muffler included with the heater -- there is a small hole meant to drain off condensation. You would need something like this at each of the low bends in the radiator to allow condensation to drain off. Problem is, CO will also be emitted, so you can't keep the radiator inside.
Are your EG4 6500-EX’s just supported on the wall with 3/4” plywood? I have to install mine on an existing wall with drywall and wood studs and I am thinking of using two pieces of 3/4” plywood screwed into the wood studs with a sheet of concrete board in between the EG4 6500-EX and the plywood!
@@gerrypineau thank you that is exactly what I needed to know! By the way I love your new EG4 18KW!! ( I like how quite it is and it appears to have a much better display not to mention that the breakers and solar cut off switches are already built in!
Thank you for making this video! How much heat do they put out when receiving Solar and charging the batteries as well as when they are making AC power? Also I know according to the manual the EG4 6500-EX is supposed to be 19.6” from the ceiling how far from the ceiling did you put yours and any issues? Thanks!
@@gerrypineau ok another great piece of information for me as my unit will have to be inside our home as our garage has far to much moisture and heat (especially in the summer in Florida) to install my EG4 6500ex in the garage and this is why I asked my question. As our unit will be inside and I also wanted to have the display at my eye level ( I am 6’2” tall ) and when following the EG4 Manual they state that the unit should be 19.6” from the ceiling and I would like it a little higher in order to have the display at a more comfortable reading position but I was concerned about how much heat this puts out when running (Solar charging and outputting AC power) as I don’t want the unit to over heat! I also did you use any of the EG4 Apps to monitor your units? And if so how was your experience with it and which one did you use? I have an iPhone so I would be using an iOS App to monitor them
