This channel shows what I've been up to, which is usually electronics or engineering related. All use of this channel and the information shown is at your own risk...
EDIT: My mistake, just watching your other videos in reverse My first school computer (UK) was the ubiquitous Commodore PET I think 2001 model by looking at old pictures. Later on I went to Cambs College of Arts and Tech, (CCAT) and learnt m/c code on a very simple single board computer. I was fascinated by it.
Single board computers really do allow you to understand everything about the machine that you are running on, which I think makes a huge difference when learning about them. I think modern machines have lost that. Even an Arduino or Pico has so much depth to the hardware and SDK that it isn't as transparent. There are proprietary areas that can't be seen at all as well. Can you remember which single board computer it was?
@@menadue I wish I could, we are talking 1986, all I can remember was a couple of photo copied pages of limited info about entering in HEX instructions. It had an LCD display, maybe two lines. A Hex keypad and the PCB. There was quite a few board still sitting in their shipping boxes in the class room so was mass produced not home made. I think I was the only one in the class who got it to work. Its was very abstract besides we were studying Manufacturing engineering so was only a intro to this tech. Not a full on Computer Science course. I chose the wrong career, I aced the CAM CAD and programming classes. We even had plug boards for NAND NOR XOR etc for building logic. The plugs were about the size of a match boxes and plug leads. Sitting on a large angle box on your desk!
I think the steering lock was off when I did this. i don't think it matters if it is on as the yoke can be removed in the same way, then the switch is removed. But I could be wrong.
@@huwmillard3138 Ah, does the tab go into a recess? Mine was off I'm pretty sure. You'd have to drill the lock bolts out first, or snap the steering lock tab off.
Thank you for posting this video. This was one of my dad's screwdivers. He was a tool design engineer and I remember him saying many years ago what a good tool he thought this was. I inherited it broken: operating clockwise but not anti-clockwise. He died in 2016 so I couldn't ask his advice on a fix. Tonight, 27th July 2024, your video has enabled me to get it going again, especially your tip at 6.03 in the video. Thank you! 👏
Hi, I'm very glad the video helped. I also think this is an excellent tool. Unlike the 'gun shaped' electric screwdrivers that seem common now, this one allows you to swap between electric drive and manual turns easily. I find this very useful to add a final half turn or so after the clutch has slipped. I also inherited the screwdriver from my father, he wasn't a tool design engineer, however. Do you know of any tools that your father designed?
@@menadue I'm sorry, I wouldn't know the names of any of them - they were for heavy industry. He worked for Lockheeds and then for a company called Automotive Products Precision Hydraulics - catchy!
Thanks for disassembling this ignition. I bought a Service manual for my motorcycle. It doesn’t show how to repair or replace the ignition. I wouldn’t feel comfortable taking it apart, without knowing what’s inside, first. (This was very helpful) Thanks, again !
Thank you so much for this video! You've saved me many more hours of trying to piece this back together. Curiosity got the better of me and I removed the locking pin (I saw the slot so figured 'well they clearly want you to be able to take it out, maybe it's a stand or something...', not thinking the entire gearbox would detach, and more components would fall out the more I fiddled with it! From the other comments it's clear your hope that someone would find your video helpful has been fulfilled many times over, even years after you first posted it :) I hope you've benefited from another Internet stranger's help in return!
Hi, I’m trying to reproduce your circuit but i can’t find in your Github the schematic for the level shifter. You talk about some fet transistors… Thanks for what you are doing
Hello, yes I didn't have level shifters on my PCB, it is a mistake. I added Si23xx n channel FETs (one I had available) as simple inverting level shifters from the Pico outputs.
I think the code uses my level shifter and that inverts, so if yours doesn't then that might be a problem. Have a look at the code and see if you need to swap the polarity of the signals.@@RiccardoPietroni
Interesting, I always thought there was no way to dump a mask rom, I wonder if it will also work with a NEC D650 uP as those have the test pin and mask rom and are used in a lot of equipment.
Mask ROMs are harder to dump as they are embedded in the microcontroller, but you can decap and dump that way, or use some form of test hardware type method. It looks like the D650 has been dumped, or a similar chip, here: www.handheldmuseum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=11037&highlight=
Nice work. I need to dump the ROM for a piece of HP test gear that also uses a 3780 and this will save me a lot of time. I was also looking to replicate Sean's circuit. Thanks for sharing
Thanks. I'd offer a PCB but it needs a modification for level shifters as I said in the video. It's probably easier to have new PCs made with that mod on it. I'll see if I added the mods to the schematic
Feel free. The RP2040 has two cores, so with one running the speech (it might be possible to offload that to the PIOs, but that's not necessary) the other one should be able to attach to a Z80 bus as long as it isn't running too fast. the RP2040 is sort of 5V tolerant too, so inputs don't need level shifters. So a Z80 speech device could be quite small and cheap. Note that the code in the github is tailored to my application. It's really simple, though so easily adapted to other uses...
Have you considered using PIO to drive the GPIO? You can get as accurate as you please and can set the clock divider to run the PIO State Machine to what ever frequency you have in mind for best speaker quality. And if you need to adapt to the microsecond pulse input GPIO, again it is PIO to the rescue which will deliver that accuracy that you need. Means you don't have to tie up any of the 2 x M+0 cores and can delegate this work to the PIOs. Ok you answered my question about PIOs non usage in the video. If your main cores work well enough, guess thats fine.
I did think about the PIOs to look at the 7us pulse on the ALD line, but I realised that the processor should easily be able to handle it, it's fast enough. hence th emove to the other core to avoid interrupts. If that hadn't have worked then I'd have looked at the PIOs. The actual sound output is being driven by a PWM, so the core isn't really doing a lot there. I could free up the cores using the PIOs or DMA, but there's nothing else for them to do in this application, so it doesn't really seem work the effort.
@@menadue Thanks for the reply. I have had a self designed kb pcb made up and assembled in China for me. Got the RP2040 and the LEDs are done with PIO, but as I am using a ready baked firmware, I didn't get the chance to play with PIO yet. Perhaps next project.
Bit late to the party ... but a few tips from experience ... 1) Unbolt the calipers and remove the brake pads, but leave the calipers attached to the braking system. 2) Put a spanner (or a length of bar), into each caliper lengthways between the pistons and slots in the caliper. 3) Pump the brake lever until the pistons come into contact with the spanner ... that'll get the pistons out as far as they can without popping out entirely. 4) Now remove the calipers from the bike and do as shown in the video ... brushing a little brake fluid onto the outside of the pistons will work it's way down into the seals and make the pistons easier to remove. Note to self ... buy this tool as it looks so much better than mole grips or pliers!!
Yes, I've done similar in the past. I think the 'best' way to do this depends a lot on your caliper size and shape and the number of pistons. Having tools designed for the job makes it easier. Sometimes.
I have a 2000 kawasaki ninja zx9r.. my parents took my key and now i have to replace the ignition i took the tripple tree off and cut the thing and got the bolts out and got new non sucurity bolts now im just waiting on my new ignition in the mail but i am currius the ignition swich does not have a chip to prevent me from replacing the key swich does it?
I don't believe so, no, but then I haven't had that exact bike. I had a 1992 ZX9R, which was a very good tourer. That got stolen and burned though, unfortunately.
@menadue sorry bout that buddy 😬 I'm probably gonna pre hook up the ignition just plug 2 plug to see and if it don't work it's probably a chip issue but I read a form online saying they didn't main Streem ignition chips till 05, bro and for those safety screws I made sure they had a specal place in my trash can 😂 I bought some new normal screws incase this exercise happens again lol
Thanks for the reassembly procedure. I carefully took everything apart to replace the NiCd batteries with a couple of Lithium types for longer endurance and get away from NiCd's only to find when I reassembled the gearbox was extremely clunky. Pulling the gearbox off the handle and everything fell apart. I have now followed your video and put it all back together again and it sounds a lot smoother now.
Hi, i drilled them out. I actually did this on my mini mill, but a drill press would do. You could also file a slot into them and use a screwdriver to get them out, I'd have thought. Or drill a hole and use a screw extractor. They weren't corroded or stuck in the hole at all when I undid them.
Thank you!! Accidently pulled one apart and when i triedputting it back together I was confused by the 6 smaller pins, after while I presumed that is where they go but I couldn't fit 2 of them in easily so I guess I'll have to persuade them haha. Thank you again for this video!
I just bought a 98 zx6r and the original owner lost the key, is there a key code for the original ignition anywhere on the bike, Or do I need to buy a new one?
@@muspriky When I bought mine about 20 years ago, there was a metal tag on the key ring. I assume that is the key code. I don't think there's one on the bike anywhere, but a main dealer may be able to tell you the code from the VIN, perhaps?
@@menadue thanks for the reply I just finished talking with a locksmith and he said that if I bring the ignition to him he would be able to cut me a key for it should only cost me about $50 I hope this information will help others
Thanks very much for a great video. My children bought me this screwdriver about 30 years ago so sentimental value is high! I always leave it on charge and the batteries have only just cried enough! I decided to solder in some new batteries and the motor works great but on reassembling I couldn't quite get the housing s to go far enough to refit the pins. On stripping i found the six rollers in the bottom and couldn't work out what they did or where they went. So grateful!
This is the sort of thing I bought: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393100168288?hash=item5b86988c60:g:qKMAAOSwCqRgBRzj It seems to have gone up in prices a bit since I bought mine.
How I do this is to put a c-clamp on each piston after removing the caliper from the disc and the pads from the caliper. Just make contact, then loosen the clamps one turn each, and pump the brakes. Each piston will then move out an equal amount and the brake pedal/lever will firm up again. Loosen each clamp another turn and repeat. You want to allow the pistons to come out evenly so that when the first one starts leaking, they will all be nearly out. Do it over a basin because the caliper will have lots of fluid when the pistons come out. After you do one caliper cap off the line and do the second one. The upsides are you don't need a tool for every size pistons come in, the pistons cannot be damaged, and there's no struggle to pull them free. The downside is you go through a bit of brake fluid filling up the caliper. I save all the brake fluid from unfinished cans of fluid to use just for pumping out pistons. Flush out all this old stuff when you're done and refill with fresh.
That's interesting as that is the way I used to do this extraction. Unfortunately I couldn't fit my smallest C clamps in the gap in the caliper and without them in place the pistons didn't come out evenly for me as the problem was stuck pistons in the first place. So I ended up pumping each piston out while blocking the bores that had already had pistons removed with wood. As these are six piston calipers when you split the caliper you lose the nozzle that attaches to the brake system so it's tricky pumping the pistons out on one half of the caliper. I still pump out the rear brake piston as there's one piston in that caliper, but I now use these extraction tools on the front, split caliper. It's pretty easy, really. Were you doing this on a caliper with pistons on one side?
@@menadue I haven't done one with pistons on each side yet, my 2020 Ninja doesn't have enough miles yet. I'm perusing brake videos here because I've just finished up doing the brakes on my '84 Goldwing. Two different size pistons, bigger ones on the left and rear disc, smaller ones on the right front one, and pistons only on one side of each caliper. I've been doing brakes the way I described because being younger, inexperienced and impatient, I once used the wrong tool to pull the pistons from an '84 Honda V65... On your bike, do opposing pistons want to occupy the same space before they clear the caliper, if you don't split it?
@@menadue Well, that sucks. When it's time, I guess I'll need another tool, unless I figure out another way. I like the pliers, I didn't know about them. Glad I watched your video!
Thank you, I had already finished replacing my Black&Decker 9019's batteries and while assembling it held the gearbox in an wrong angle so that it spilled its guts. I wasn't sure at all about the pins positions and then went looking if by chance someone documented the disassembly, but my hopes were low. Kudos to you for creating this video 28 years after the screwdriver was built!
