On this channel I post motorcycle related videos in the "How To Do It Videos", "Reviews, Tips & Tricks" and "My Rides and Trips" playlists. Here I publish videos about my Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic and everything else related to it: riding, maintaining, customizing, etc.
ALL CONTENT ON THIS CHANNEL IS ORIGINAL AND PRODUCED BY ME.
I own a 2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 900b Classic. I changed out the original sprockets with Barons modified sprockets which jacked the gear ratio by 10%. I no longer need a 6th gear as now I can go 65 miles an hour in 4th gear before I shift into 5th gear. Now no high reving and no vibration until I hit around 80 mph. Getting over 50 mpg at 60 mph. Ironically, now my speedometer is accurate. T'was off by 10%.
I have a theory the manual states those shift points for passing some kind of noise or emissions standard, and has nothing to do with where you should actually be shifting.
I shift closer to you normally, but for carbon buildup I regularly full throttle accelerate to almost the rev limiter. These engines actually would probably be better off just sitting in higher rpm’s always, the only negative would be reduced gas mileage. The main killer of engines is carbon buildup in my experience, wear is so negligible especially with regular synthetic oil changes that it’s just a non issue. It’s carbon I worry about the most, so for that reason I try to get it hot in the high rpm’s regularly. Lugging is also just nasty for an engine, so much force on your pistons and cylinders, they’re made for high rpms.
i swapped the front 32 tooth pulley for a 34 tooth pulley. Its a 6% reduction in RPMs and torque. with 94% of the starting power i used to have, its a worth while trade so that i can still enjoy the backroads and get better performance on the highway. I dont need to accelerate hard. just crusin.
How is it better performance? You’re getting worse performance, save maybe unnoticeable gas mileage. I’d be more concerned about carbon buildup, I love revving mine up on the highway, good carbon clean.
I think there’s some kind of conspiracy going on cause I can’t find a single video on how to do this on a Vulcan 800 classic… and I even have a Haynes manual which doesn’t mention it. Oh well, I think if I just start removing parts I’ll eventually get to it.
Even the service manual under adjusting preload says “remove rear shock, see section xx”… like wtf… I know damn well you can adjust them on the bike cause I remember doing it one time when I had my rear wheel off and other parts for repairs, it was just years ago and I don’t want to take all that off again.
Nice video, thanks. I will be buying a 2006 and picking up in two weeks. How difficult is it to get the old oil filter off if it's the usual design, without the built in nut? Seems might be difficult to reach with a regular filter wrench.
I’ve heard a couple people talking about for the Kawasaki 900 custom to run better on the highway with its 5 speed transmission, you could change the front sprocket to a different one with 1 more tooth and it would make a huge improvement. Does anyone know more about this?
I did. I got the barons 34 tooth front pulley. Its a 6% reduction in RPMs. It makes highway riding much more comfortable and backroads performance is unaffected. At 6% its not a major difference but its just enough to make 70mph a comfortable ride.
I ride a 97 Vulcan 800 Classic it red lines at 8200 rpm, the 900 sounds similar, harleys and larger twins red line at 5500 rpm, so no they don't need a sixth gear, fifth gear is its overdrive. Running 80 to 90 mph I do lose some mpg my best mpg is at 60 to 70. mph.
Thanks for the video. Where I live the interstate min speed is 70 MPH. You really need to go 75 or 80 to keep from getting runover. I think it needs a 6th gear.
WOW Max, you are such an awesome Dude! I love your calm manner and teaching. I just bought a 2015 Vulcan 900 LT and want to do a lot of my own routine maintenance. Thanks so much from Wisconsin USA😎
This is really a genius project. I just built it for my Vulcan 900 Classic, but today’s price looks more like almost $60. I guess that means Bidenomics IS working.
Confused about orientation of the bulb. Is there only one position that it can lock up? I see that led chips are looking left and right through the glass not up or down.
I drained all oil but the filter couldn’t come out. It is FRAM PH6017A filter we got attachment to get it out but it is so tight. Any ideas how we can get it out?
Mine loves 75 mph. I have a taller back tire than stock. I don’t need a 6th really for the backroads I ride. If I were on the highway a lot….maybe a 6th. I ride at the higher rpm range before changing gears.
I have an 02 1500 Classic. I’m also a new rider. I don’t have an RPM gauge, so I just listen to my engine, I couldn’t tell you what MPH I shift at. I have no idea if I’m shifting at the right time or not, but get from point a to point b safely, hopefully doing no engine/clutch damage.
Oh goodness I am going to have to watch this. After all these years I am always searching for a 6th as it just runs/sounds so high. I need an aftermarket cruise control if you have any suggestions.
Thanks for the explanation! I have a question I cannot seem to find an answer for. Maybe you can help. What is the size of the hook wrench you were using? I don’t want to but an overpriced original one but to buy a regular hook wrench you have to know at least the size interval. I was able to find on the internet that the biggest hook wrench from the tool kit is size 32.5 but the smallest one you were using has no markings.
