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Hello. * Do you still highly recommend these thermometers, or not? * Did they hold up well in very cold environment like a freezer? * Do they give very accurate and stable readings, or all over the place? * How long does a battery last on average? * Has a battery ever damaged/blown up (due to extreme temperature fluctuations)? (FYI, imo lithium batteries should do very well, because they last a LONG time compared to alkaline.) I would really appreciate answers to all of my questions. Thank you sir.
I have a video coming up showing the process. In the meantime, if you look on the driver's side of the transmission the level plug is right there. With that said, I always caution people when checking/adding fluid as its done wrong more often than not. The problem is, if you dont do the exact process outlined and the right temp people overfill/underfill all the time. As long as no leaks, add what was removed and that is the sure bet way to not do it wrong. With that said, if your interested here is the process to check: (1) Start the engine. (2) Depress the brake pedal and move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about 3 seconds in each range. Then move the shift lever back to PARK (P). Allow the engine to idle 500-800 rpm for at least 3 minutes to allow any fluid foaming to dissipate and the fluid level to stabilize. Release the brake pedal. Note: If the transmission fluid temp (TFT) reading is not at the required temperature, allow the vehicle to cool, or operate the vehicle until the appropriate TFT is reached. If the fluid temperature is below the specified range, perform the following procedure to raise the fluid temperature to the specification. Drive the vehicle in second gear until the fluid temperature is at the specified temperature. Some models have display on the dash showing the transmission fluid temp if not equipped then you will need scan tool. (3) Keep the engine running and observe the transmission fluid temperature (TFT) using the Driver Information Center or a scan tool. Caution: The transmission fluid level must be checked when the transmission fluid temperature (TFT) is at 85-95°C (185-203°F). If the TFT is not at this temperature, operate the vehicle or allow the fluid to cool as required. Setting the fluid level with a TFT outside this temperature will result in either an under or over-filled transmission. TFT 95°C under-filled, TFT 85°C over-filled. An under-filled transmission will cause premature component wear or damage. An over-filled transmission will cause fluid to discharge out the vent tube, fluid foaming, or pump cavitation. (4) Raise the vehicle on a hoist. The vehicle must be level, with the engine running and the shift lever in the PARK range. (5) While the vehicle is idling, remove the oil level set plug on the left side of transmission. Allow any fluid to drain. (6) If the fluid is flowing as a steady stream, wait until the fluid begins to drip. (7) If no fluid comes out, add fluid until fluid drips out.
Great walk-thru video!! I have a 2017 Lacrosse and this was the closest vid for back brakes. Do you have or plan other vids on this vehicle? Thank you!!!
Glad you liked it! I do have some other videos out there for this Enclave and have a few more coming up (how to check transmission fluid and cabin/air filter change). I have to finish up a Ford Escape transmissions swap video first and few others but will try to get to more Enclave videos soon. This is one of my personal vehicles, so if anything else comes up I will for sure do a video.
Yea I do feel like sometimes I push it harder, but if you dont when working with nails it takes longer. I just cut up 75 yards of an old pressure treated fence a few days ago with both of these and they worked great.
You can buy a scanner that lets you retrack your rear parking brake. These 2nd gen ebclave and traverse are the easiest vehicle to work on with very little headache. I absolutely love working on my 2018 traverse.
Yup agree, I have an Autel scanner that will also set the parking brake service mode, but a lot of people don't have a scanner. I wanted to make sure did this video to help others as its not required to buy a scanner unlike what some shops try to tell customers in order to get business.
I just recently swapped out the stock brake rotor to the slotted type for better stopping power. My stock rotor just couldn't do the job when they get extremely hot. It just feels very sluggish and slide to a stop versus stopping on a dime when you need it the most in an emergency. I had a near front end collision a while back on the highway with the stock rotor not stopping fast enough. These new slotted brake rotor I had installed on made a huge difference. It stops quicker with less foot braking effort. I just tap the brake pedal and it slows down dramatically. With the stock rotor i had to slam hard on the brake pedal from at least 5 car length to come to a complete stop in hot weather condition.
I haven't used any slotted rotors on any of my personal vehicles as I worked on a few vehicles about 10 years ago that the owner kept having them crack. Maybe they were using a lower quality rotor not sure, but after seeing them cracked made me second think about trying slotted rotors on my vehicles. I know they do help cut down on heat, so I was surprised to see them crack. Which brand did you use?
Just got this and did my mom's shrubs and bushes , It's an absolute beast ! A solid 80 minutes run time and never ever bogged down .. IMO this is high level , As good as any other and at 119 at Lowe's it's an absolute steal !!! Amazing tool. Skill has hit a home run here , Awesome tool !
Glad you like it! I agree this trimmer is awesome especially for the price. I have been impressed with all of the other Skil 40V outdoor power equipment I have used as well (chainsaw, string trimmer, blower, and pole saw).
2:33 cause of the power cord type on the M12, i will never have it with me, so for me the charger is useless. I would rather have 2 speaker instead of one for stereo sound than the charger. Also, bluetooth 4.2 is a dinosaur, it needs the 5.0 or newer
You don't have to start the engine, you can do the same procedure from accessory mode (holding down the start button WITHOUT your foot on the brake pedal (basically key position 2)).
On certain years/models you have to start the vehicle. On this 2018, you must start the vehicle (I tried in run as well and it didn't work). Some of GMs newer years will allow you to do this process with the run like you stated (I also mentioned at the end of the video that some only work with the car on and others will work in run).
Im not positive the exact size, however you must use a crush washer not a regular washer. You can buy individual crush washers at your local store or an assortment online ( amzn.to/4evvTtU ) but typically its best if you have the old one to compare. You may just want to buy a new sensor as they are only like $20, and it will come with new washer ( amzn.to/3XBpDKn ).
the M12 is an appauling little piece of trash.dont ever ever buy one.the volume sucks ... on it and power of the speakers is utterly pathetic.you cant hear it ever it changes volume continually.i have on in my workshop using it for a while i know what im saying spend the money and buy anything other than this piece of trash.Its either too loud or too low.rubbish red hot reubbish like most of milwaukees cheap amercan crap.Once again yet again america fails.cant make anything good.
No, you won't be able to use as this gun is only capable of drywall screws. I would suggest using a flooring screw gun, Senco, Quikdrive or PAMFast they all make good guns. Here is the Senco one: amzn.to/47BHFAC
Awesome video! You make it look easy 👍 I am just wondering if you would follow up on checking the oil level, and do you have an other video on that procedure?
Glad you liked it! Typically, as long as you add the amount you removed AND you don't have any leaks it's not required to check. The reason I caution people about checking/adding additional fluid is because if you don't have it level and the right temp it will cause an underfill/overfill. With that said if you want to check, currently I don't have a video on the procedure on this transmission, but I will add one at a later date. In the meantime, here is the procedure: (1) Park the vehicle on level surface, apply the parking brake and place shift lever in Park (P) and start engine. (2) Depress brake pedal and move shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about 3 seconds in each range. Then move shift lever back to Park (P). (3) Allow the engine to idle 500-800 rpm for at least 3 minutes to allow any fluid foaming to dissipate and the fluid level to stabilize. Release the brake pedal. (4) Keep the engine running and observe the transmission fluid temperate (TFT) using the driver information center or a scan tool. Caution: The transmission fluid level must be checked when the transmission fluid temperature is at 185-203 degrees F. If the TFT is not at this temp, operate the vehicle or allow the fluid to cool as required. Setting the fluid when not in this range with result in an over fill or under fill. (5) With the vehicle on level ground, engine running and shift lever in the park range. (6) Remove the dipstick and wipe it clean and inspect fluid color. Should be red/dark brown. If black inspect for excessive metal. (7) Install the dipstick. Wait three seconds and then remove again. (8) Check both sides of the dipstick and read the LOWER level. (9) Install and remove again to double check reading. (10) If the fluid level is not within the crosshatch band add fluid to the appropriate level. (11) Reinstall Dipstick Note: If you don't have a transmission dipstick, then you need to look on the side of transmission there is an oil level plug that needs to be removed to check. Its the same process except your looking for fluid to come out to confirm you have enough. If nothing comes out and in the temp range, then add till it drips out then re install level plug. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the helpful video! About to order the part for my 2016 Acadia, do you happen to have a link to the wiring harness as well? Also, did any coolant leak out when replacing the sensor?
Glad you liked it! No, there shouldn't be any coolant that will leak out. Just make sure you do this when the engine is cold, do not remove the sensor when engine is warm otherwise there could be some to come out due to pressure. For the wiring harness, I believe this is the part you need: amzn.to/4djm94W ...however not unless you see if burned I wouldn't order it ahead of time as the majority of the time it's just the sensor. If you do remove and see the wiring is bad, most parts store stock the same part number. Just make sure you get the GM sensor ( amzn.to/49AYv2d ) as some of the aftermarket ones sometimes cause problems...the wiring can be any brand. Hope this helps.
@@TeamDIYNow awesome , thank you. I had the drain plug one all shattered so wasn't sure. Thanks for the quick response. I'm about to go and finish up the job. Thanks again
One thing I saw on other videos comparing between the two is that if you try to inflate an empty tire to say 32PSI, the Milwaukee will shut off midway due to overheating. One video showed the Dewalt runs for over two hours without shutting off.
Interesting, I haven't experienced that on mine as the M18 has a duty cycle of 20 mins. It will sometimes shut off for 1 second because of the true fill technology so it doesn't overfill, but it turns right back on to top off. If the one you saw can't fill a tire to 32psi I'm guessing that pump or battery is defective.
@@TeamDIYNow The one I saw had an overheat message on the display. I have just ordered the Dewalt, for me, I don’t have other Dewalt products, so I would otherwise have to order the battery and charger, but it can run from the 12V socket so that fits the bill for me.
Yea I agree, you do see additional power gains with more demanding tools. I did a few other videos comparing these batteries with M18 circular saws (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QpmoBJ9QV0E.html). My favorite thing with the Forge is the full power all the way till the battery is drained which is what really separates the Forge from the other M18 batteries in my opinion.
Great video man, thank you. Question though... I'm hearing you shouldn't change transmission fluid for one reason or another on these types of transmissions. What are your thoughts on this?
Glad you liked it! The old thought about not changing a transmission fluid is if the transmission has some miles on it and may be on its way out (like 200k+ and the transmission has never been serviced). If you change the fluid, some of the sludge/metal shavings inside of the transmission holding things together could be drained out and now you could experience some shifting issues. With that said, nearly every transmission has a service interval that it is recommended to drain/refill the transmission. On this Enclave/Traverse, the normal maintenance schedule doesn't list the need to drain/refill (which I wouldn't follow) but the severe does say its recommended at 45k on page 345. GMs first bullet point on how to determine normal vs severe service interval says if 'Mainly driven in heavy city traffic in hot weather' would mean you need to follow the severe schedule. There's a lot of cars that should be serviced by the severe schedule but aren't because no manufacture wants to say their vehicle needs a ton of maintenance so the normal looks more appealing to consumers. My advice, drain/refill this transmission every 50k or less as there is no harm in changing too often but big consequences if you don't service at all. There is an internal transmission filter that is not serviceable, which is all the more reason you don't want to clog that up with dirty fluid as that means a complete teardown. I have had my share of GM transmissions go all the way up to 350k and still shift good and I'm sure it's because I always service around that 50k mark. Hope this helps.
It appears they may file for bankruptcy as they struggled towards the beginning of the year posting financials. As of 9/17/2024 most of their products are still for sale thru Amazon and my local Lowes other than this table. I'm hoping they emerge post-bankruptcy as a new company as their products were great.
Awesome little demo too bad dewalt + battery is about $370 CAD which is nuts, considering their quality level. I was sad to see laminate cut with the dewalt was not so good, it kept pulling forward on you which is unfortunate, not sure why it struggles to plunge and then cut. Was looking for something to do flooring with.
Glad you liked it! Yea it does want to pull forward at times, but not near as bad as my Dremel. Its hard to beat the control of a jigsaw while cutting holes in laminate for hvac ducts, etc... but this tool is good overall at various jobs. I did a separate video on a few of Bosch's jigsaws (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PzUX8wQ0Ns4.html). Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your vid. Have been running the old 4amp/h battery's over the past 10 years. Found them to be the sweet spot of power versus cost over the time period. Now have x4 5 amp/h (past 2 years). Have noticed a big difference going from 4 to 5 amp/h batteries. My retired father inherited most of the 4 amp/h battery's even though I still run a couple. As I am looking to purchase high power devices (Chainsaw/Hammer drill Vac system etc) I know I has to start looking at the batteries/capacities/run times etc, hence why watching this vid. See that there has been huge changes in the tech of the batteries over the past 3-4 years....But so has the cost increased, incredibly. Battery pricing here in Melbourne Aussie (Sydney tools), M18 standard 4amp/h $178.20, 5 amp/h $218.00, High output 6 amp/h $227.70, 8amp/h $278.30, 12amp/h $299, Forge 6amp/h $279.00, 8amp/h $349.00, 12 amp/h $399.00. Currently I cannot justify the costs to upgrade to Forge batteries. Am yet to test the high output versus the standard 5amp/h battery's. Will do so when I have purchased a high output skin (Chainsaw or another device). Am curious about other ppl's experience/feedback.
Glad you liked it! The 5ah is still my go to when the HO isn't needed (lights, drills, impact wrenches, etc). Its smaller and has good power for most small jobs. Where I use my HO and Forge are with my outdoor trimmer, blower, chainsaw, and circular saws. With that said, I do agree the prices of the batteries are getting up there. Here in the US they aren't as high where you live, but they still are expensive. If looking to get into the HO lineup, the 6ah HO is the sweet spot for power/price/dependability. The 8ah HO has a lot higher failure rate than the 6ah HO and in my opinion outside of using the 12ah on a miter saw its too big. If you need the power the 12ah produces, then the 6ah Forge is the one I would get as it's the same power and a lot smaller. Typically, here in the US around the holidays there are some good deals and ever since the Forge came out the 6ah HO has been on sale. Im sure here in another month or two Milwaukee will be including the free batteries so hopefully your able to get one for free.
As long as the bolt is threaded inside hole it should just go in straight. It may look a little off going on but it should straighten out when get it flush to pump. If it’s going on really crooked then maybe the pulley is bad as it may not be flat.
Your RT should have the HD brakes. On the rear, both the regular and HD are 330mm but the HD is vented and 22mm thick vs the regular is not vented and 14mm. On the front, the 350mm is for the HD and 330mm for the regular. Depends on where you buy them, sometimes retailers only show in the description to buy the front rotor based on if the rear rotor is vented or solid. If vented just means you also need the HD rotor up front. Hope this helps.
I don't own any dewalt tools only milwaukee. But milwaukee missed a huge opportunity to included the ability to power the device with your car. For that reason, I am going dewalt and I'll buy an extra battery for it just in case
Yea I agree, its the only reason I also have the Dewalt. I leave the Dewalt in my vehicle without the battery so its always there if needed. No need to worry about lithium battery getting to hot in the car either as its not required.
I have a 3-year-old Rheem just like yours. It worked fine since it was installed until a few days ago. I left the settings where the installers set it at. First it shut off completely. I would light the pilot light, it would run for a few minutes, then shut off again. That made me think the thermocouple was bad. I looked at the controller and it was turned to between B and C. Based on your video, I lit the pilot light and then set it to the "hot" setting. It's been running great since. We barely noticed the decrease in water temperature. Thanks for the idea.
This are absolutely garbage water heaters same with the AO Smith. I’m a handyman work in a huge apartment complex and this junk garbage water heaters are nothing but garbage way to many sensors and bs . I replaced this junk’s every six months
Thanks for sharing...Rheem, AO Smith, and Richmond are the ones commonly available around my area. Which brand do you recommend? Other than this temp issue, I haven't had any other issues with mine and it's about 6 years old. The previous Rheem water heater I had lasted 20 years before it started leaking.
Thanks for the feedback. I can see how that comment could be confusing as I said to 'store it at the lowest rating, so you wouldn't store it at 50 you would store it at 20.' I should have said to store it at the lowest tool setting which is 20 not the lowest rating because the lowest package rating is 50. Hope that clears up the confusion.
