Love your videos, great work but At time 7:00 please cover your ball-screw unless you like fiddling with tiny ball bearings, unpacking and cleaning and repacking a ball-screw is not fun, and replacing it is expensive.
NEVER wear gloves around rotating equipement, especially when your hands are so close to it - it's a great way to get a serious hand injury - the drill or the lathe or the mill catches the glove and wrappes it around, together with your hand in it. If you value your hands, do no not wear such heavy gloves when operating rotating equipement. Perhaps latex gloves that can tear easily would be preferable?
The old "hold breath and walk away (or frantically run before forcefully gasping for any breath available) for breath of fresh air" technique 😂😂😂 I actually think it can be quite effective if done properly lol better then just breathing crap in here n there, i often do it when arc welding and stuff😂😂
I was spitballing the idea of running 3/16" brake line all through my epoxy granite base, and circulating water through it with a thermoelectric element driving it to constant temperature. But I thought, why do I keep making things so complicated? Now it seems a lot less like overengineering.
Interesting thought, although you can also stop the banana effect by epoxying another bar of steel to the bottom, or by using threaded rods and a plate, and putting some tension on it, which may be easier/cheaper
Bolting a vise to the table only makes sense when you're processing hundreds or thousands of parts. I've done this on a gang press with 6 drill heads. Each station performed only one operation on the parts. With three operators assigned, each operator running two stations, the parts get finished very quickly.
Hahaha a lot has happened in the meantime, I do plan to get back to the project in earnest though and get it finished. I’ve moved twice since the last video among other things which put a hefty delay on things lol
It would have to be the right saw as well, but I’m using a Diablo 8in metal cutting circular saw blade on a Milwaukee metal cutting circular saw. This would not work as well on a normal circular saw because it spins too fast and would wreck the blade pretty quickly- apologies if that was obvious
Hey Superman, watch out for kryptonite! Molten metal can splash. People can trip. Your rebar tongs can slip. Molten metal can burn straight through a leather boot faster than you can jump away. What do you think it would do to your bare skin? You're pouring molten metal with short pants, short sleeves, and nothing protects your head or eyes while you admit you're twisting your wrists and it's difficult. You would change the rest of your life in an instant. Protect the father of your unborn children.
*It is so annoying seeing everyone call every substance EXCEPT GRANITE... GRANITE.* Granite is a GD Igneous rock. There is nothing 'questionable' about Granite when you hold it in your hand. You pick up a rock and go... hmmm, granite. So, Please stop. You made a tombstone of sand, epoxy and river pebbles, which almost ALWAYS is quartz. That is not granite.
Calling it “Epoxy Sapphire” from now on just for you my friend In all seriousness though, epoxy granite is what this material is generally called. Understood it’s not technically granite, but a stone/epoxy slurry to create machine tools is epoxy granite
To tap with your cordless set your clutch as low as it goes and increase slowly by feel. Remember you can still break it if you pull or bump it off axis. If possible use a form tap all around better.
Still working! I’ve moved and had several other big life events lately which delayed things, but I will be finishing the project and putting out more videos!
Heyyyyyyy where are the videosssss? I started watching the build series, thinking to myself I was glad this happened 1 year ago and I wouldn't have to wait for uploads to see it all 😭
You are going to have a serious injury. The way you disrespect safety is concerning. You watch RU-vid how many do you see pouring melted alloy like you do, unprotected, no safety glasses, your hands and arms bare in a T shirt
One RU-vidr says you should mix epoxy part A with the aggregates first, then mix in part B. I question this method because it's a lot easier to thoroughly mix two liquids than it is to thoroughly mix a liquid and aggregates. He claims it gives you more working time, but I highly doubt it, since the final mixing takes longer to insure the two epoxies are properly mixed. Moreover, if you mix part A and B but don't mix in the aggregates as thoroughly, the process is a lot more forgiving. What's your a take on this? Btw, when you're follow up video? I'd love to see how it turns out.
Hi Bob! I have to say I completely agree, mixing the part B in after the part A seems like a big mistake- it becomes wildly harder to mix once you have your aggregate in there, and the epoxy parts are the most important thing. That was sort of my reasoning for mixed things the order I did. First epoxy to get that super well mixed, then large stone because it’s easiest to mix with, and moving smaller and smaller where it becomes harder to mix. My theory was that way if something didn’t get mixed in perfectly, it would probably only be my smallest aggregate since that’s hardest to mix in and last to be mixed. Ideally kind of minimizing risk that way? I did feel confident I got a good mix though, it’s tough but definitely can be done. I keep telling people soon hahaha, but soon! I’ve got power run to it and started a control panel and a few other things, just been incredibly busy. Really like 2 more days of work (which might be a week or two until I have time to do…) and I can get to editing, almost there!
The trick to transfer punches is to drill 1 hole. Tap it. Then bolt it together. Now use a transfer punch on ONLY the farthest away hole. Remove everything. Drill and tap the second hole. Now bolt it back together. Now you can use a transfer punch on the rest of your holes. Now all your holes are correct and you have no speed holes.
I’m not gonna lie I feel a little dumb for not doing it that way from the get go but thanks, I will definitely be doing that moving forward at least hahaha.
I believe the sizes are all given in inches, but just take the sizes given and multiply by 25.2 to get the sizes in MM. So 1in would be 25.2mm, .5in would be 12.6mm ect
Hi Mark, Are you referring to the larger casting with the “dark layer”? If you are then that at least wasn’t an issue, for my second finest particle size I switched from a light aggregate to a dark aggregate part way through which made it look like there was really bad settling. If you look closeup (aka if I was competent at RU-vid and actually got a good closeup shot lol) you can actually see that there seems to be a proper mix at all levels of the casting, I don’t think the settling was very significant here. Or if I’m totally missing something let me know haha
@@robertsteinwandel6658 That is a great answer. And I stand corrected. You are doing a great job on this build. Guessing it stopped for a little while? Mark
@@KravchenkoAudioPerth thank you! Yeah unfortunately I’ve been crazy busy with work and other things, still working but slowly right now. It might be a few more weeks before I can put out another video but another one will definitely be coming, and I should have power to the lathe and operating motors!
I'd use an angle grinder to cut those pieces of angle that want to close up. Just don't allow the blade to sink into the material. This means you essentially score the work along your cutting line never allowing your blade to completely sink through the cut until it's very thin. It requires multiple passes.
This is the best system I've found on YT. It's brilliant to have a sizing gradient for your filler materials. It helps to mechanically lock all of the particulates in place. The vibration table is the cherry on top. Very nice.
If I were you I'd build the lathe using this gear and then recast another blank pulley with out the gear teeth. Then machine a gear accurately using a cutter and indexer.
That’s a great idea honestly, plus would be a seriously cool process to learn. A little ways out for sure but that will definitely be one of the first upgrades I make!
Absolutely- I don’t know too much about pool tables though, I assume they have to be quite flat and level obviously. You might be able to use a self leveling epoxy top surface, with the felt on top of that?
The short table on that jointer is part of the problem. Check the flatness of the infeed and outfeed tables and check them for parallel. Does Calvin's mill have a video ? I am buying parts for a future homemade lathe project. I've been looking at other people's designs for inspiration. I hope your lathe will make some chips soon.
Thanks for the advice I really appreciate it. I did check them for flatness - they’re flat enough to not really matter at this scale (maybe 10-15 thou at biggest dip? Not too bad) but I’ll have to check for parallel when I get home. I hope so too! Should have a video showing attaching the ballscrew nuts and hopefully wiring the steppers in the next week or two. It’s getting closer at least!
Do you know all the types of lathes ... what is the pass thru lathe chuck called for holding and shaping long straight shafts?? thanks for the content!!
Thanks! I mean most metal lathes have a hollow spindle and a chuck where you can pass material backwards through the chuck for working with long pieces. Are you possibly thinking of this compared to a wood lathe where you generally wouldn’t have a hollow spindle/ chuck?
@@robertsteinwandel6658 yes thanks! that's exactly it.. I lack the inference to find these lathe types, models etc.. and I've tried every term I could think of .. it's so weird I've seen these lathes used but they never say the name and model almost like it's a secret and they never respond when asked. It dawned on me that this type would probably be used to make gun barrels so I'm gonna look there. I love billiards and have always wanted to make my own cue. There is a seemingly cornered market for special lathes that make and repair cues.. but they seem shady and cheaply designed and they certainly don't share knowledge of the alt lathe brands and models for obvious reasons. So I'm trying to find a lathe that will turn a cue shaft but can also do other things if desired. I've learned about taig, collet etc but nothing I've come across addresses the type of lathe I've seen. I've only just begun my search so I'll stick with it... thanks again for your kind reply!
@@hobonickel840 absolutely, yeah sometimes it’s oddly hard to find information like that haha. If you’re turning wood I wood (hahaha) bet that you could use a wood lathe with a long bed and turn it with success. Do proper cues screw together in 2 halves or have I just only ever used peasant grade pool cues before? Hahaha If they do screw together a wood lathe with about a 3 foot bed would work just fine I bet, this gets more difficult and more reason to need a pass-through spindle assembly if you need the whole cue in a single 6ish foot length.
@@robertsteinwandel6658 oh man you're awesome... they are two pieces with a joint. Ive looked hard today and still come up short and gun lathes are overkill. I've seen people using the wood lathes again today and even the milling set up with CNC software but still no lathe info lmbo
@@hobonickel840 hahaha glad I could help a little bit. I think you really would only need a metal lathe if it was just what you had on hand, a wood lathe would work and be much much cheaper (like 1/10th the cost potentially) Let me know how it goes!
Both project turned out great. Putting the nuts for the threaded rod inside the conduit was a pro touch! And that band-aid after the 600 grit added authenticity. Looking forward to your next vid.
To be completely honest I know aluminum fixture plates ect. Exist but I didn’t really look into that option. Looking back though I think I still would have gone with steel, my thinking being: Aluminum doesn’t have much vibration damping and is less dense than steel- I doubt this would matter too much in the grand scheme of things but first thing that comes to mind Aluminum is much softer than steel so I don’t know if I’d trust myself not to ding it up throughout the build Although it’s a precision surface, with the weight of curing epoxy above it I wouldn’t be surprised if the casting cured with a bend in the plate (the mold was only accurate to around .030in - I might ruin the accuracy just with the weight of the epoxy before it cures. And the other aspect would be cost, I would assume that tooling plate is quite a bit more than the around $100 I paid for the steel? If not though please let me know haha, maybe I’m missing out here lol Let me know what you think, Thanks!
Like to add you typically only need to vibrate it the first 30-60 minutes. You don’t want to over vibrate when its trying to cure. Its a must do to avoid those air pockets. You did a fantastic job we live in a desert region so i was able to dry my aggregate and sand on a sheet of plastic tarp outside for a couple 90 degree days. You have to rake it to expose the moisture. The oven is probably more certain but i had no issues. Also if you want to run coolant or wiring through the casting make sure its added before you pour. Only other thing with mine i embed a frame structure and it does make a difference. You can add ceramic microspheres, powder cast iron, aluminum, etc into your epoxy. You can even add graphene if you van afford some. All depends on your budget.
Oh and lastly if you use an ATP-5 cast plate instead of bar on each side you can use one piece even though you need to run a ball screw down the center as long as its hollow underneath. You can have it prebuilt with the bottom mounting plate so your 90 degree is cast right into the epoxy. This does require fastening two thin strips for the linear guide rails to butt up against when you install them later. You could use a 3” or 4” half tube of PVC from home depot, or something similar to get that channel open. The PVC makes for a nice washable surface. After its cured you can cut the center plate section out and if you cast a close to perfect 90 with the bottom you shouldn’t need to machine either surface. A nice cost savings by building this way and you’re not risking the surfaces or paying someone else to finish it for you. You’re ready to paint then mount it all up..
Thanks a lot! Your machine (lathe/Mill possibly?) sounds really interesting, could you describe it any more? What type of embedded frame did you use, like welded/bolted steel frame set into the EG? Actually I wildly wish I had used a single plate on top as opposed to the 2 bars, the 2 bars didn’t save much money and added hours and hours of work to get them flat and parallel. Sometimes I really wonder if I’ll end up redoing the entire machine with all these lessons learned hahaha
If not for the bubbles, how much vibrating would be required to settle the aggregate properly without altering the composition? Reason I ask it that I wonder if sticking the whole mold into a vacuum chamber after vibration is complete, would better get rid of all the bubbles. Would a need slow-cure epoxy and some kind of chamber, perhaps an old modified long shaped air-compressor tank or propane tank... a lathe bed is the perfect item to try it on. I am interested in trying something like this myself. Excellent video and thanks for sharing!
@@deryckschnee6376 I'm going to vacuum bag the entire mold, then infuse the epoxy through it. The downside is that the epoxy will get all over the mold and I'll have to trim off all the flash. The upside is better density -- even fewer bubbles, and vibration-packing the dry aggregate means lower epoxy fraction. I'm curious if vibrating while infusing epoxy will speed up the infusion. I'm building some test coupons that should find out.
I absolutely will, unfortunately in the last 2 months I’ve moved and had a ton to do at work so I’ve been really slow on videos, but I have a video Im working on right now and hopefully this weekend I’ll be back to regular progress on the lathe
Actually no, Interestingly enough! I thought the same thing, but I did tests with a micrometer and a piece of ground steel of known thickness, and one complete pass removed approximately .0003in from the whole surface. Im sure a grinding wheel would remove a ton more though which is why you need to use a cutting wherl
When you’re cutting and you feel your blade start to pinch, just fully back out of the cut and run the saw through again. That will recut whatever deflected inward. Might have to do it several times but it should cut fine.
I'm late to the party but wouldn't it make sense to work on both rails at the same time? Anyway, I admire the hustle. Can't wait to see how this turns out
Haha it would have, I wasn’t really sure what I was going to do at first so I started with just the one rail. Would’ve been better to do both together though for sure. Thanks!
You can make an oil burner for your furnace that will allow you to melt cast iron, there's a lot of videos out there explaining the process. You're correct in that propane doesn't burn hot enough to melt it.
