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DIY Epoxy Granite Lathe #1: Progress Update 

Robert Steinwandel
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Epoxy Granite CNC lathe
This video is quite honestly terrible but hopefully its at least somewhat watchable. If anyone is interested I can try to make a better quality version and explain my thinking more in depth. If you have any comments or questions or criticisms send them in the comments! If this is going to blow up in my face Id love to at least know it will beforehand lol. Thanks!

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6 май 2022

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Комментарии : 46   
@RotarySMP
@RotarySMP 2 года назад
Awesome project Robert. Nice progress. From here your entire internet fan base is expecting weekly updates :) I would recommend LinuxCNC. You have all the advantages of a fully developed CNC controller. I am sure you can scrounge an old desktop PC to run it. For a basic lathe the Mesa 7i96 is excellent, and $120 is cheap for what it does. That is what I used on the Mini Lathe. I got a bit more ambitious with the Schaublin, due to its extra I/O for gearbox, tool changer, pneumatics etc, but would seriously recommend the 7i96 for your lathe. Your video is a good first attempt. Using a clamp or tripod or something to hold the phone is the next step, and you can do basic editing in Windows photo viewer or what ever they call it. That is how I started. You speak clearly and dont ramble much, so it is well watchable. Thanks for making that video. And I am not kidding, I subbed to see your weekly progress. Posting weekly videos is what got my mini lathe project done. Helped with focus.
@robertsteinwandel6658
@robertsteinwandel6658 2 года назад
Thanks!! Im really excited for how it’ll turn out. LinuxCNC definitely sounds like the way to go, and 120 is actually a lot cheaper than I was expecting- the only thing that concerns me is figuring out how to use it as my computer skills aren’t anything to write home about lol. As for the video Im definitely interested in making more regular updates, Im going to try to order a cheap tripod later today. Counting commute Im working about 70 hours a week right now which for me is tough, so Ill have to see how quickly I can really make videos, but this last week I made good progress. Hopefully that’ll continue so I actually have something to show hahaha. Anyways, thanks for the feedback I appreciate it! If you see any issues with the design or anything please let me know haha, before this project Id never seen a lathe in person much less touched one, so Im not exactly coming from a place of experience.
@andytyphoon
@andytyphoon 2 года назад
Good job so far, nice project.
@robertsteinwandel6658
@robertsteinwandel6658 2 года назад
Thanks, I appreciate it! Im trying to put out about a video a week if you’re interested!
@andrewphillip8432
@andrewphillip8432 Год назад
In my opinion it’s both more desirable and easier to set the cross slide ways to be exactly perpendicular to the spindle, rather than exactly perpendicular to the z axis ways. Might seem like a pointless distinction but hear me out. The goal (presumably) is that when you face off a part you want the surface to be flat. This is easy to achieve by taking test facing cuts, and then indicating the face of the part from the cross slide. On the near side (where the tool was previously cutting at) the indicator needle shouldn’t move as you run the cross slide in and out, but if you go past the center of the part then the indicator will detect a slope on the part if the cross slide is not perfectly aligned to the spindle axis. Because if the cross slide is not perfectly aligned to the spindle axis then a facing cut will make a very slight cone. Just keep adjusting the rails until facing cuts don’t generate a cone anymore. Awesome project by the way I’m about to watch the rest of your series
@robertsteinwandel6658
@robertsteinwandel6658 Год назад
Thanks for the comment, that’s a great point. I can’t remember exactly what I said in the video to be honest, it’s been a while, but basically I’m hoping to get the cross slide roughly correct by squaring it to the main axis (since the lathe isn’t operable yet) and then once the lathe is running I’ll be doing exactly that, to get it fully dialed in. That method is also nice since it doubles the error, since the slope of the part is moving one way while the slope of the cross slide moves the other after the halfway point, that should make it much easier to measure
@andrewphillip8432
@andrewphillip8432 Год назад
@@robertsteinwandel6658 exactly! Sounds like you are familiar with this test. It’s great for getting lathes dialed in
@robertsteinwandel6658
@robertsteinwandel6658 Год назад
@@andrewphillip8432 I’m excited to have a working lathe to do the tests in the first place hahaha Thank you!
@turataitiev2393
@turataitiev2393 Год назад
Interesting video
@robertsteinwandel6658
@robertsteinwandel6658 Год назад
Thanks!
@jeroen-surf
@jeroen-surf 2 года назад
Nice project! For a next project I would use less wide steel inserts that will hold the linear rails. Let’s say approx 1/2” wider than the rails itself. This way you have way less steel to grind and flatten. Hope this makes sense 😅 Anyways great job though!
@robertsteinwandel6658
@robertsteinwandel6658 2 года назад
Thank you! I see your point, but I actually have to disagree. I think if I redid it I may actually go the opposite way and instead of 2 4in wide inserts I would use a full 10in wide plate for the entire top surface. The plate would be fairly flat to start with, especially if its cold rolled, but more importantly it would be easier to measure the flatness. Particularly for twist having a full surface would be much easier to check, which is a big factor in to time it takes to flatten the rails
@glennedward2201
@glennedward2201 Год назад
Don’t use steel at all its a terrible dampener and it rusts. Always use Cast Iron or ATP-5 precision plate which is 7000 series machine grade cast that needs nothing done to it. Plus a full ATP5 plate allows for room to bolt on strips for rail guides or any other features. You can even TIG weld guides on after indicated. You must have a guide, or machine a ridge to keep the rails from shifting when in use. His only choice now is to take it to a machine shop and have them groove the seat for the rails. If he don’t that machine will be problematic. Been building CNC’s many years this is something I know well. There is also a reason industrial machines have this in the castings. Has to be just enough to keep them aligned and not so tall that the blocks rub on it.
@GhostlySD
@GhostlySD Год назад
@@glennedward2201 would ATP-5 be rigged and heavy enough compared to casted iron? Thanks
@lunarrn
@lunarrn Год назад
You have done an amazing job on this. So amazing I want to copy the basics. I’m curious how long the ways are and how high the headstock is?
@robertsteinwandel6658
@robertsteinwandel6658 Год назад
Ah thank you! The ways are I believe 39 inches and the headstock is I think 16 inches tall from the ways to the top of the headstock
@FinboySlick
@FinboySlick Год назад
Really cool project. If you need help with LinuxCNC, we'll be happy to have you, lots of helpful and smart people on IRC.
@robertsteinwandel6658
@robertsteinwandel6658 Год назад
I would actually be extremely interested in that, thanks! I might just be tired and dumb but what does IRC stand for?
@glennedward2201
@glennedward2201 Год назад
Any reason you didnt use a solid single plate of ATP-5 since its precision and doesn’t require grinding or scraping?
@robertsteinwandel6658
@robertsteinwandel6658 Год назад
To be completely honest I know aluminum fixture plates ect. Exist but I didn’t really look into that option. Looking back though I think I still would have gone with steel, my thinking being: Aluminum doesn’t have much vibration damping and is less dense than steel- I doubt this would matter too much in the grand scheme of things but first thing that comes to mind Aluminum is much softer than steel so I don’t know if I’d trust myself not to ding it up throughout the build Although it’s a precision surface, with the weight of curing epoxy above it I wouldn’t be surprised if the casting cured with a bend in the plate (the mold was only accurate to around .030in - I might ruin the accuracy just with the weight of the epoxy before it cures. And the other aspect would be cost, I would assume that tooling plate is quite a bit more than the around $100 I paid for the steel? If not though please let me know haha, maybe I’m missing out here lol Let me know what you think, Thanks!
@jackskalski3699
@jackskalski3699 9 месяцев назад
Hi what a wonderful build! I do have one question. For the grinder scraper do you use flap disc or a stiff sander of some sorts?
@robertsteinwandel6658
@robertsteinwandel6658 9 месяцев назад
Thank you! It’s a little sketchy but a cutting disc works perfectly actually haha, keep a light hand….
@user-ge9ki3ym6b
@user-ge9ki3ym6b 2 года назад
Great job. Can you recommend the epoxy granite recipe?
@robertsteinwandel6658
@robertsteinwandel6658 2 года назад
Thank you! I don’t think I understand, but yes I do recommend the recipe, it seemed to work well
@Ale_Lab
@Ale_Lab 2 года назад
Nice project! I wonder, did you cover the epoxy granite part elsewhere? Would like to know the recipe you use. The result seems really good. Thx!
@robertsteinwandel6658
@robertsteinwandel6658 2 года назад
I haven’t actually, one or two people mentioned it in comments though, Ill try to make a video about it soon! I had 10-11% epoxy by weight, 4 aggregate mix from play sand up to .5in, graded with sieves Have you made any eg castings already?
@Ale_Lab
@Ale_Lab 2 года назад
@@robertsteinwandel6658 thanks for the hint. No I didn't. I am converting my cnc to linear rails and have just finished to make the extra parts. Next in the list is fill up the voids with eg. That's why I asked for it 😁
@robertsteinwandel6658
@robertsteinwandel6658 2 года назад
Ale ah thats great, sounds like a really cool project! EG was so interesting to research/ work with, Ill try to put out a video with all the info I have soon! Let me know if you have any specific questions and I can try to answer them if I happen to know the answer
@Ale_Lab
@Ale_Lab 2 года назад
@@robertsteinwandel6658Thank you, Robert. I guess my main questions will be about the right EG mix and overall procedure. For instance which product to use to avoid the epoxy to stick to it, how to limit and remove air bubble from the epoxy. These are common notions I more or less know, but it's different when you have a video showing the technique and the final result. It gives you a confident burst.
@robertsteinwandel6658
@robertsteinwandel6658 2 года назад
Ale absolutely! For removing eg from the mold paste wax is absolutely outstanding- just rub it into the mold walls and the eg will just pop right out (if its a wood mold you can just chip it off anyways but what a bother) For removing air you absolutely want a pretty hard vibration around 60HZ (I think some german guys found 64HZ is optimal but a 3600rpm motor with an eccentric weight is an easy way to get very close to correct) Ill show my exact setup for the vibration in a video but when your vibration is good it works insanely well. Like my eg would look like barely damp sand at the beach, until I vibrated it and it would condense down so much there would be a glaze of excess epoxy on top of the eg sometimes (hard to describe in words lol) If you haven’t checked out the main eg forum on cnc zone you absolutely should, they have a huge amount of info there (no video tho sadly)
@TheJamesHowe
@TheJamesHowe 2 года назад
You may want to check out a video by "An Engineers Findings" about alternative scraper geometry for scraping steel. I'll try to find the link and post it. It looks like the grinder technique is working for you though so maybe it will be unnecessary, but maybe if you can make it work you could hand scrape last bit once you have it close with the grinder.
@TheJamesHowe
@TheJamesHowe 2 года назад
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FgxjiEBhKvM.html Here is the video
@TheJamesHowe
@TheJamesHowe 2 года назад
Looking good so far by the way
@robertsteinwandel6658
@robertsteinwandel6658 2 года назад
Thank you so much for the resource!! I’ll absolutely check it out now :) Even though my grinder scraping seems to be working Id absolutely be interested in trying other ways, if only for comparisons sake
@bobweiram6321
@bobweiram6321 2 года назад
@@robertsteinwandel6658 A dremel with a rotary grinding stone is an excellent alternative too. Much faster and more accurate since you can shape the cone to a finer point.
@robertsteinwandel6658
@robertsteinwandel6658 2 года назад
Bob Weiram Id heard of people doing that, thats a great idea honestly. How would you shape the stone, use a carbide cutter or something similar?
@FinboySlick
@FinboySlick Год назад
Oh, the reason why you struggled hand-scraping the steel is probably explained here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FgxjiEBhKvM.html
@robertsteinwandel6658
@robertsteinwandel6658 Год назад
Lol I think someone else suggested that exact same video, that’s really a great resource. I might have to go back at some point and try that, what a cool concept
@FinboySlick
@FinboySlick Год назад
@@robertsteinwandel6658 Heh, silly me, I just noticed. Keep up the good work, this is a great project. Regardless of how good the end result ends up being, you'll learn so much.
@robertsteinwandel6658
@robertsteinwandel6658 Год назад
@@FinboySlick thanks for the kind words! This has been a great experience so far, really enjoying it :)
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