Classic Sports Cars and Auto Restoration Currently putting the finishing touches on a 1967 Porsche 911 coupe. A complete A-Z series on the process and details of this historic automobile.
That floor looks so factory wow. Nice. It’s been a while but In the 80’s when I was active in the Porsche restoration we would use a yellowish rocker shutz think from wurth or 3m using a splatter gun we would just blast it would leave a rubberized coating sort of like the newer Porsches would use , the yellowish rubberized coating would be lightly painted that was it, Anyway I’m watching your videos because I’m about to restore a 1966 sr coupe 912 slate gray this fall not to the concours level you do but some welding in pan up front here and there If your ever in Maryland with your 911 , stop by !
Thanks ocella, I did use some of the 3M under the hood for texture before painting..Turned out nice and looks factory. Thank for the invitation! If im ever in Maryland I will certainly give you a shout! Best of luck with your restoration work and if there is anything you might need help with just drop me a line www.mikesrestorations.com Cheers!
Your 911 restoration videos set the gold standard Mike. Such great video work, and your step by step explanations are excellent, which encourages others (like me) to use your videos to self-restore our own classic 911s gaining experience and also saving money along the way. Thank you so much for all your hours and hard work to provide this amazing content for others.
Hello Richard Thank you Im so happy to hear the video series is helpful. It really is amazing how much we can do as DIYers. Wishing you the best of luck with your restoration work! Cheers
Is that anti-seize compound on the new flywheel bolts? I’m doing my 928 and will be buying new bolts and given how much of a pain there were to get out I was wondering about doing that for the next owner.
Hello Chance Im using locktite 243. Its best to clean the new bolts with a solvent type cleaner ( brake cleaner) before using the locktite and installing. Any oil residue on the bolt before locktite will negate the locktite. Anti-seize should not be used for flywheel bolts. We want them torqued to spec and secured. (Red loctite is not recommended as it is permeant bond.) The blue loctite is an excellent thread lubricant for torquing and has just the right amount of holding power. Good luck!
Hello. I am doing zinc electroplating and then yellow chromate. I submerge the zinc plated part in muriatic acid for a few seconds, rinse with distilled water, and submerge in the yellow chromate for 30 seconds. When I remove the part and rinse with distilled water, the yellow chromate rinses off. What is wrong?
Hello Tim I have found over time any standing water on the yellow chromate after the final rinse will erode away the chromate. If you dip your part in the yellow chrome and gently move it back and forth for your 30 seconds, slowly lift it out and gently place it into the rice bucket and pull back out quickly and smoothly. Soon as its out use compressed air to blow dry the part entirely. This is essential for a nice finish. A hair dryer will not work. I like to use compressed air as im blowing off the piece water in front of a fan. Your yellow Chromate should not have any issues if you dry it this way. The chromate needs to be flash dried! Worth a try=) Good luck!!
@@MikesRestorations Thank you, Sir. I also read about older yellow chromate not "biting" enough. Even though it is a new batch and I made it per instructions, I tried adding 1.25 teaspoons of sulfuric acid to the liter of yellow chromate (basically double the sulfuric acid in the recipe). The next time I dipped and rinsed, much less came off and the part looks pretty good. Thanks for the help and I'll try your tips as well.
Hello Venk. I don't think these guys are offering this service anymore. I think Sierra madre was offering something similar a couple years ago. Its difficult to find the service anymore as it requires special tooling and special chrome tooling. If I remember back when these were done the cost was approx. $400.00 per wheel.. and the process took months to receive them back. Good luck and please let us know back if you do find a new source for the task Cheers!
Thank you very much for your video, the precise explanation of each component, and the recommendation on where to buy the components. It has really been a great help to me.
Thank you Pancho you are very welcome. Its also good to note the restoration of this unit has been working flawlessly real time driving conditions.. Fully charging and no issues so far Cheers!
Mike, the quality of your restoration work , video taking and narration is second to none. I love taking the time to watch all your 911 videos, and learning new things that I can apply to my 1974 911 2.7 MFI Carrera. Thanks a million.
Thank you Richard I really appreciate the positive feedback. A 74 2.7 is such a cool car! Wishing you the best of luck with your restoration work Cheers
Mike do you have any tips for plating the calipers? I have the Caswell kit and have plated lots of things with great success but for some reason the caliper I am not getting good coverage.
Yes Mr10usdad, The secret to good coverage is a vigorous current of bath fluid flowing over it constantly and warm temperatures. A strong pump that creates a strong current will help flow the material in the hard to reach places. It also works best if you can manually keep rotating that part during the plating process. Especially the last couple minutes is critical. A three gallon bath is also a huge advantage!
Mike, your videos are amazing. I am a little surprised, however, that you suggest gasoline for cleaning parts. It’s really volatile, the fumes are not particularly pleasant (or good for you) and there is a good alternative. I recommend Coleman camping fuel. It is white gas. Works for everything, from nuts and bolts like in the beginning of this video, to adhesives, to whatever else you would use a solvent for. it is not volatile, is extremely clean, and is relatively benign. A such you can even remove adhesive from high-end paint without hurting the paint. I highly recommend it in just about any application where a good solvent is required.
Hello gratefully, Yes it's something I don't like to bring much light too but it has been quite a viable solvent over the years. Definitely not for everyone. If you can have a proper environment, conditions to work with it, and also some (common sense). with a strong emphasis on that=) its tough to beat. Im a big fan of denatured alcohol for cleaning also depending what I am working on. I have not heard of your Coleman fuel for this purpose. Sounds interesting and I will definatley be giving it a try. Thank for sharing your tip! Cheers
The PET -the full 911/912 parts catalog with exploded diagrams and all part numbers is also vital. easily found on-line. It has lots of smaller parts that are easily missed in a restoration like the plastic bushes for the accelerator rod from your own videos.
Well your amazing work has been more helpful to me than all the books in your video. I am doing a 68 912 to the same standard and your logical approach and know how has saved me hours of doing it wrong! Thank you.
Impressive. Having been in the Porsche restoration business in my 20’s I can say you are very focused on details you got a great project going on. Fascinating The challenge we had in those days was the billing and time , it was a business and we had to be very diligent about customer communication and documentation. It was a hard business because the Porsche customers were so picky and many were lawyers so they could sue you if they weren’t happy I miss those days Best of luck!
Thanks oella, It turned out to be a very successful project. I couldn't imagine restoring these cars for a living back in the day or even now...wow I'll bet you have some stories! Cheers
Very meticulous work, the results are worth it. Looks brand new. I also use VHT Engine enamel on all my painted parts on my 1974 Alfa coupe restoration. 👍👍
Once again, Mike's videos have been the best resource for those of us who are adventurous enough to approach these projects. I've had several people tell me that I didn't want to take on these recliners myself and that they are best sent to a pro with the correct tools. So, I sent these off to a company referred to me from Stoddard. When the recliners were returned to me, I took off one of the plastic covers to discover that the gears looked pretty crusty and if any lube was used on them, it was next to none. Those thin white plastic gaskets where old and in several pieces. I actually paid for this service. After watching this video, I put the project into my own hands and found that they are not that tough at all to rebuild. Yes, you need to be incredibly cautious when removing and re-installing that large black coiled spring. And, putting the adjuster spring back in requires a bit of dexterity and the ability to throw out some really strong cursing. After watching how to do this in slo-mo, it was back to the garage. I got them on, and now the driver side recliners are done. They truly did not take that much time. Thanks again Mike. I am almost done doing the front seats in entirety.
Hello Stephen Thank you for the positive feedback, it is really appreciated. Im so glad the videos are this helpful to get thru some of these restoration tasks. It can be disheartening when you pay for professional services and get sub par workmanship. I get a lot of emails from viewers on the channel and they are willing to give some of these things a try. Most DIYers are getting great results. Keep up the great work and if there is something I can help you with down the road please feel free to reach out anytime Cheers! www.mikesrestorations.com
I am in the process of replacing my original grille. Can you link to the grille you used - I have found one from eBay from a manufacturer called Tasker Metal Products but I am unsure if it is true to the original.
Hello Barry I don't know the manufacturer of the deck grill that I used. It was purchased approximately 9 years ago from Stoddard in Ohio. It's worth a shot to call them and see if they are still using that same supplier. Quality is excellent Good luck!
@@barryswinton3224 No clear coat needed Barry. The anodizing is high grade and beautiful. No maintenance required with these. will outlast me for sure=)
Hello Jonny No the exhaust system was painted with a ceramic coating sourced from Stoddard. It is not a Cerakote finish. After some time the exhaust system paint has begun to delaminate. I do not recommend coating with anything other than Cerakote. I will be re-doing mine in a future video, stripping, media blasting and re=applying with a Cerakote finish. Anything I have used Cerakote on my engine has performed %100%. It will make a fantastic exhaust system coating. The exhaust systems on the cars are quite large and in plain view. After awhile they all look terrible. Even stainless steel looks terrible. It will be interesting to see how Cerakote will hold up on the system. If it does it will certainly be a game changer for all early 911 912 exhaust systems looking for a reliable concours finish.
I found out what happened here you have to use another regular tire dressing for awhile like adams vrt until the tires dry, they offgas for quite awhile and when you seal the tires it gets trapped in your ceramic coating or whatever they make these tire coatings with i saw on the amazon reviews that the same thing happened to a guy with new tires on amazon reviews for lonestar coating and the guys in autogeek forums mention the allowing the tires to dry out and offgas they didnt mention the brown but I assume you got it real bad with ur extreme standards
I was just thinking about you & your car days before this popped up, really missing the videos over here in Australia. 🇦🇺 The car sounds great and drives well. Keep safe.
Hello Restoblast Good to hear from you! Yes just a quickie video to share.. I've been crazy busy since the restoration catching up on things Its stupid hot now in Las Vegas but have plans to get videos rolling again in the fall when things cool off Take care mate! Cheers
Hello Peter Original color is slate gray and has been repainted to original spec. The slate gray actually has some bluish green hues deepening on the lighting Cheers!
@@MikesRestorations Thanks Mike. It was just the lighting that made it look green. Always thought the grey looked perfect. Enjoy the fruits of your labor.
Hello Brett Getting her dialed in now and taking her out a bit father from home with each drive. Confidence is climbing..Im almost ready for a long run=) Cheers!
Hello John Thanks=) Its just a quickie vid but wanted to share Been busy like crazy.. will be doing some cool driving vids down the road New equipment on the horizon Hope to see you in Japan sometime in the near future! Cheers
Hello Chris Thank you=) its just a quikie video but wanted to share. Will be doing some proper driving videos down the road a bit..soon as I catch up on my loooong list of projects Cheers!
Hello Quicktastic Yes sorry its just a quickie video but I will be acquired some proper audio and video equipment soon. Some cool driving videos coming on the horizon=) Cheers!
Hello Gordon Its just a quickie video but I wanted to share the tune up. Will be acquiring some proper audio and video equipment and looking forward to some driving vids down the road Cheers!
Hello Jp Unfortunately I did not do any video on the dying process. I did a soap and water cleaning first with a thorough rinse and dry. Purchased a large SS pot for the cook top on my stove. Using Rit back dye and followed instructions to the letter. Put the belts in the boiling mix and that was pretty much it. No issues to date. The dye still looks fresh today and no rub off on hands or clothing. Its really simple JP.. give it a shot! Cheers
Congratulations Mike. Whenever I do work on my Porsche, it all starts with watching how you did it. Thanks for sharing all that knowledge. You're a LEGEND
Thank-U THANK-U Thank-U FINALLY Someone has Explained what the Acid Prep Bath is & WHAT it is for??? I’ve spent hours perusing the net trying to find this information! Gold Plating Services sells it as a Plating “ACTIVATOR” & sells it for $40 a quart. I researched the ingredients & listed Sulphuric acid. So I purchased some M/C Battery acid filler & used that.($12) 📍Do you by chance know what the dilution ratio % if of your Acid dip?? 💯EXCELLENT VIDEO Sir!!! I’m only Nickel plating some Brass on much smaller [1.25 scale Auto Replica Machined parts] that I use for models. But process is the same. Excellent Video & Much Appreciated!! Lee PS: Almost forgot, you also helped me with using Cotton Gauze for covering the Nickel Anode!!! Another item I had endlessly researched until seeing it on your AWESOME VIDEO!!!!
Hi Mike, one more time, a major thanks for putting this content together. Getting to the closing blows with my 1968 911T. Your content, the detail and clear explanation of methodologies and trouble shooting is a completely invaluable resource. Thanks and thanks again!
