Here at PerformaBuilt Transmissions, our goal is to engineer and build the toughest transmissions on the planet. We don’t just rebuild transmissions. We systematically re-engineer each model to eliminate OEM flaws and to achieve the highest levels of performance. That is why we say our transmissions are "Not just built... They're PerformaBuilt."
Geez! I didn’t come here for a dissertation on transees, I came here for the details on SETTING the TV cable! Holy crap though! I sure am glad I landed on THIS video! AWESOME explanation of crap I had no clue about. ThaNKs!!!!!!!
Well shit, good thing i watched this before aligning my pump...didnt put the o-ring in and there was no spring on the pin in my core unless it fell out on my floor and that wont be found...
You know this is a pretty good video but why would you tell us how to do everything except the most important things. Can show any modifications you've done to anything. Thats the whole damn point. Screw these videos
Wouldnt be in buisness if i did. You want modification advice then buy a book and learn lol. Builders do videos for basic rebuilds not to just give their business away... use your common sense.
No because they are too old and useless with a governor to get to work with any kind of boost or power adder in todays racing world. Governor cant keep up with any boost. Why would i do a video if ive discontinued? Tell you what... i will do a video on dumb comments next starting with yours. Have a nice rest of your week and stay tuned 😉
I'm just frustrated because I need to rebuild one. I have no other option with money i have and its for my dads car. Nobody rebuilds them anymore. I don't need it to handle a power adder. I just need to be a step up from stock. It's loosing 1st gear. I understand where your coming from. But if someone tried to rebuild one from your video it's only gonna get them so far. And you discontinued it so thats why I said why not do a whole video so people can still rebuild them the right way when there's no business of yours to be took because you don't offer it anymore. Not trying to be an ass. I appreciate your video it just left me with questions still. I will buy a manual if it will tell me what I need to know. I dont like asking people but I was hoping that this time I really need it I could find some good info. Sorry, thank you for your time. You did good work on the video of what you did show!
Use the largest 700R4 boost valve in the 200 4R pump. Take the pump and direct drum and all apply plates to a machine shop and get them all machined flat (cant stress how important that is) use a 10 or 13 4l60e 700r4 pump rotor in the 200 4R pump. Use clutch counts and wide band in video with .040 band clearance and .020 clutch clearance. Set end play to .005 to .010. Service it fluid and filter every single year and never let it get above 190 degrees. That will hold about 500 hp with very little money.
hi, im just searching if i need to pre-fill my converter and this video came along... i have to say thanks!! it clears many of my doubts and gives me confidence to finish, and fill, my just rebuild powerglide 1961 iron cast, 2 speed. i hope this tutorial works on that dinosaur too!! im just about to do it tomorrow, if everything works fine... i´ll tell you how it gets and thanks again! saludos from santiago de chile southamerica.
I did my Corvette servo on my 01 Silverado trans still in. I didn't have to drop exhaust or pan worked good and used the longer gm pin I did check the cover travel though with dial indicator, good videos you put out thanks.
Hi Ryan I rebuilt my 94 4l60e almost a year ago on my camaro and was working great no leaks (my first transmission rebuild ever) I only had like 500 miles on it, I only use the car some weekends. Thing is a couple weeks ago I went on a 40 mile trip and the transmission cooler failed, huge leak I dont know at what point in the trip it happened but when I got home it was shifting weird and had very slow reverse, very low on fluod. I replaced the cooler and refilling I accidentally overfilled the transmission but didn't notice it. Then I went to a test drive for like 6-8 miles and the transmission was working good just a bit harsh on the 1-2 shift but felt back to normal. I noticed the fluid level and took some fluid out to get it to the correct level. Thing is now it has a leak which seems to be from the pump seal, do you guys think that the low fluid due to the cooler leak caused the torque converter to overheat and damaged the seal? I don't really know cause I need to take the converter cover out to really see what's happening but the fluid it's coming from that area for sure and I think it's the only place it can leak but I might be wrong
100% the reason and unfortunately the pump and input frictions are damaged from it and on borrowed time. You will have to rebuild again shortly. Transmissions are very sensitive to losing any fluid.
Awesome Video I have 88 Silverado 1500 series Rebuilt the lower half of the engine. 280,000 miles purrs like a kitten still. Sticker price New $17,000. I needed to adjust the transmission shifts hard in 2nd if you punch it. Thanks for the help‼️🤠
Sorry I have to comment again about your build videos you do your builds with the confidence that I like to see when I want to learn something and you are so comfortable with what you are doing and you go into detail over the part of the build that you need to be careful about explaining the build and the areas that are where the failure rate is the most common problem and that is the most helpful because when you are replacing a transmission that you built you need to have the confidence that you don’t have to do it over and over again because the transmission is a part that you have to get it right the first time not like an alternator that just takes a few minutes to replace nothing is worse than installing an engine or transmission and it’ll have to come back out because there’s something not right about it and that’s why I will only install an engine that is either a new engine from a quality builder and the same with a transmission and I almost never install customer supplied parts because I just hate to charge a customer the cost of a job and then the part failed at the start up I want my customer to come in with a broken vehicle and leave with a good running vehicle that will be reliable so that customer has gotten value for their money
I can’t agree with you more on the filter change I was floored when I first heard about this new service where they flush the fluid and don’t replace the filter and that goes against everything that I was taught about oil filters and pm I have been to trade shows and courses since I was 17 and started working in my uncle’s shop in Anaheim and I was sent to every single class that was offered and it was pounded into my head that changing the old plugged up filter was the most important part of an oil change and you could get by prolonging your service by changing your filter and topping off your oil not a recommendation but under no circumstances do you ever do a service without a filter change and I have always applied that concept to the transmission and mostly because of the fact that a transmission is a very precise and hard working part of your vehicle and the dirt and temperature that it is subject to and also so many times that is the last part of your vehicle that you think about when it gets serviced until it stops working properly and I have replaced transmissions that have never been serviced and there are some transmissions that are equipped with 2 filters and the little spin on filter gets overlooked mostly because when a diy weekend person goes to the auto parts store to pick up the service kit thinking they have everything they need does the service and never even notices the filter being that it’s not painted and looks like a part of the transmission so they just think they have done their transmission a great job and then it’s just not shifting very well and they think they have to replace the transmission and usually by then the cost of replacing the transmission is going to cost more than the vehicle is worth I have bought so many vehicles that have some kind of transmission problem that is easily solved and cost less than the cost of the filter and fluid but I thought that I was the only person who never agreed with the shops that push transmission flushing I usually advise anyone who goes to a shop that recommends a transmission flush to take their vehicle to another shop before they end up wasting money and not having a qualified technician servicing their vehicle
Hey brother, what if I don't have a code, but I am have a 4L65E hard shift from 1st to 2nd, and it is a long down shift from overdrive to 3rd? But other than that is drives good. I just don't like how it's doing 1st to 2nd!
@PerformaBuiltTransmissions I live in a small town and I don't know who I would talk to unless a dealer would do it and I bet they break the bank for that lol 😂
You mentioned if the converter is installed correctly, it should spin freely, no grindy noises..etc. I think mine is installed correctly. With converter all the way back towards pump, I have just over an inch from (4l60e) bellhousing mating surface to converter mounting and can't slip my fingers behind the converter. I have right at 1/8" from converter mounting pads to flexplate . It's a pretty tight 1/8". It is a reman converter so would think it shouldn't be so tight?. Anyway, when I rotate it, it spins freely but makes a gritty sound. It makes the same gritty sound when I pull the converter back and forth to the flexplate/pump before installing the bolts. I looked back at my pictures and saw there was a bit of rust inside the converter hub smooth section. Could this be the noise that I'm hearing ? Me hearing the noise sliding it in and out as well as rotating it has me curious. Could it be a low fluid thing ?Thanks! Been lurking your videos for some time. Just subscribed. Thank you for all you're doing!
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Thanks. I thought TC Remanufacturing was supposed to decent but obviously got it from local parts store... Sucks... This may mean there's rust inside too I'm guessing? Dang... About ready to put the exhaust back on but this has been gnawing at me and I finally came across your video that specifically mentioned the grainy metallic sound.... Was going to check if maybe it was possible that the crank end was making the racket since I didn't grease it.Sigh.. ..Thank you!..
Its because they are the same in general. No difference that matters in function except the 70 iss if your vehicle requires it and is not on a standalone.
he put in the load springs and says himself that they apply slowly burning the clutches over time.and with them in after about 6 months the clutches wont grab because the load springs dont collapse enough. and it takes very little wear to do this. the only come backs we had are the ones we put load springs. leaving these out will increase the life of the transmission 10 fold. also removal of the check ball in the lower case is a recommended gm update.
Simply not true. They prevent certerfuge apply of the 3rd clutch when not in 3rd. Even with 6 frictions they squash and apply just fine in 3rd and 4th. Please dont spread misinformation. * for anyone reading this is why these transmissions have gotten a bad name because of bad info from guys like this.
I've built several 60s, and I'm building another one right now for a Yukon I bought. I've experimented with all kinds of different configurations for the 3-4 clutch. I've found in my opinion to get the best shift feel from using 9 .062 frictions and. 060 steels. Then whatever thickness backing and apply plates needed to get my desired .025 clearance. I've always ran the load springs, which I'm assuming is a must with so little clearance. Basically I guess I'm asking what is your opinion of this setup, and do you have any recommendations when running this type of setup? Thanks
I have a 4l60e that blew the front pump seal out of it. The truck was turned off quickly afterwards. I can turn the trans shaft by hand, but can’t turn the front pump shaft by hand, should I be able to turn it? I am curious if the pump siezed up after blowing the seal.
Might explain why im reading 210 under easy driving despite having a big plate cooler w fan, Im going to move it to the pan based on this video and some other forums posts that seem to indicate this is a higher temp reading I dont understand fully because my brain assumes fluid temp is fluid temp in an engine or trans but we shall see!
What would you recommend for my 03 Suburban, that tows 7,000 lbs in the summer heat? The engine is stock. Just want to proactively get a built transmission before my stock one leaves me stranded.
Love it! And I also LOVE to hear people dog 4L60Es! lol I got a stock case 95 behind a 496ci big block into the 6s in a 100% factory complete 4360lb full size truck with ONLY $275 worth of upgrades (HD2 kit, Corvette servo, & extra-wide band)🤘🏼 Granted, once I started spraying it I broke the stock output shaft BUT all the other internals still looked perfect. Just installed a billet shaft with 6-pinion/5-pinion planetaries so we’ll see how long the 3/4s hold up progressing more power in down range🤞🏼 Gonna need a good input shaft and Smart Tech drum before long I’m sure…
Late to the party, Went to the custom one from summit from a stocker. Pan is off and this gave me exactly what I needed. Will probably need to rebuild the tans soon but now I know for the new unit it’ll be right.
I love the videos a keep doing what your doing. Most motor guys have no interest in the hydraulics involved. You need to get get up with Cletus mcfarlane. That's his main problem right now. He has the power but no delivery
If I haven't serviced it and I drive it regular now I cranked it up and drove now now it's not going 3rd to 4th. I'm going to have to rebuild and this looks like a good idea to go big on it. Tryna to drop a 6.0.
Dude I’ve got a 87 blazer with a vortec 350 fully freed motor and 700r4 and man I love it but hill climbs I just lose so much speed momentum power idk but she drops the trans is healthy so idk where to go more tq n hp or better trans?!
Remove all parts and plug the hole. Firms 4th while providing fluid to rear train in all gears not just 4th. Dont read too deep into it. Very basic mod
