Great video! If there is a squeaky noise coming from inside the strut when compressing/decompressing the suspension, is there any way to grease it up without completely disassemblying the strut like you did in your video?
Thanks :) First, you must be sure that the squeaky noise comes from inside the strut, and not from any bushings, upper control arms, stabilizer bars etc. In most instances, these sounds are created by other parts of the suspension, than the air struts. But in some cases, and more often as the air struts ages, also they can give a squeaky sound. If so, the most likely source is the shock absorber itself (a piston with metal spring inside the cylinder there). Wear and tear run these out. So not much to do in that case (the bellows is the other weak point). Assumes nothing very unlikely has happened, as a broken plastic cover or a fractured rubber absorber at the top etc. But hard to see that this should make such sounds. You probabaly have to open it up, and take a look, if you wanne check everything off.
Hello, I have the same problem with my vehicle. This repair costs nothing, except time. But how long will it last? A year later, the problem has not returned? Thank you.
The air strut, of course, can fail any time, because you don't fix wear and tear regarding the bellows, retention valve and the shock absorber itself (consisting of the cylinder, piston and a small metal ring). When it comes to rust removal around the sealing rings - where most leaks occur - durability depends most on the quality of the work you do, and how bad the damages is in the first place. May be deep rust that sits in tiny places, so you should in some cases most probably be more thoroughly than shown in the video (drill with steel brush, sandblasting may be used, chemical metal to smooth out uneven surfaces on the metal cover etc.). But if you do proper work here, I would assume that the leaks will stop for quite some time ahead. But exactly for how long, is impossible to say.
I find them quite good. They seem solid and I put the rear ones on my own Tesla S 2 years ago. They have now run 45' km, and have had no problems with them. You can ask this guy more specific about the air struts shown in the video. He has installed them on his car: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8pMQl1Y5sqE.htmlsi=Ww_Wtt1y_uvLC41Y Note that air struts for Tesla X front and S facelift front from 2016 onwards are more or less identical.
One of them still has a small leak, but it take days for the air to seep out. This is probably due to I didn't remove the rust well enough. In tiny areas, the corrosion often sits deeper than you realize. The surface must be completely smooth and fine around the sealing rings and at the metal cover surface at least. Note that there are differences in the air struts for preface Tesla S and S facelift/X. The build up of the latters are much the same, but not equal. Another thing is that neither the bellows nor the actual shock absorbers inside the air strut, are replaced with this type of fix. Rust around the valve fixing on the top can also be so serious, that rehabilitation is not worthwhile. So I would recommend to take a general assessment of the rust condition, and also take into account how many milages the air struts have run, before going ahead. Another tips: if you buy new aftermarket ones, be sure that the residual pressure valve is of OE quality. The cheap Asia copies often fail after 6-12 months use.
Gjør ikke det, dessverre. Vær litt obs på at rehab kan ha sine begrensninger, særlig hvis demperne har rullet langt. En luftfjær har tre kritiske hoveddeler: 1. Luftbelg 2. Støtdemper og 3. Ventiler Da hjelper det ikke så mye å fikse luftlekkasjer ved bare å pusse og lakkere tetteflater og skifte noen o-ringer, hvis det viser seg at det er belgen som er gammel og morken, eller ventil innfestingen er nesten rustet av. Og selve støtdemperen kan også være mer enn overmoden for utskifting. Så anbefaler derfor å ta en generell vurdering på tilstand før man setter i gang.
Sykt kult at du gidder å lage disse videoene! Leiet etter tips (på engelsk) så finner eg deg... med samme fine dialekten som meg ❤ Setter pris på det du gjør, du e rå!
Think it should be sufficient to cover it. But when driving, you should let the compressor stay deactivated. Just let the service mode for the air system stay on, with height adjustment unavailable. Or, disconnect the fuse for the compressor. It will be a bumpy ride though, without much suspension. Maybe you can plug it, and drive with the suspension on. But Im a bit uncertain. In most cases the system is anyway already disconnected, because of an alert, and I guess the electronics (ecu) will get confused and the system may uncalibrate if turned on. But if you manage to give this a try, nice to hear from you
@@christianvenneslan9361 I like this option. I think you read my mind. I was trying to conceive of exactly how to do this. Could you list the specific parts used to create this tool? My Tesla S has a leak in the left rear line at some point. Not sure if I should try and inflate at the solenoid or do as you suggest here.
Hei, jeg har samme lekkasje på min. P85D med 15200 kilometer. Tror du det er verdt å gjøre som du gjør her? Har ikke helt nok penger til å kjøpe 4 nye nå.
My 2018 MS is at Tesla right now having both rear replaced at a cost of £2600! £800 for each strut and £1000 labour! 😢was going to do it myself but couldn’t find any videos other than older versions.
yeah its really expensive at Tesla. Similar prices here in Norway. You find the video for the Tesla S facelift rear installation here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Swlc0l7ylBA.htmlsi=P5jDIAI9bZGuSeQy
Det er en slik hjemmelagd sak jeg bruker i videoen der. Tilgjengelig her tidligere, men utsolgt: www.teslasuspension.com/p/nippel-nokkel-til-luftfjaer-tesla-s/ Men det går stort sett fint med en vanlig polygrip tang, men putt på noe beskyttelse
I just used polygrip pliers. But it may be difficult to get to the valve, particularly on the left side, if I remember correctly. So had to loosen and lower the air strut a bit for access
Its not very difficult to remove them from the car. You can have a look at these videos to get an impression PRE-FACELIFT S ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sbM32xH4L1A.htmlsi=c0HZC9H3ghMEZ1Sv FACELIFT S ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Swlc0l7ylBA.htmlsi=dz0gIk3PQTECgQZ1 TESLA X ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_hCVP4rhqok.htmlsi=wc90H8owWdsdT0KU
Hi Tomek, we have in stock for pre-face Tesla S rear, the sealing rings. But the o-ring we only sell as a set together with the 'support- and stop ring'. You can see her: www.teslasuspension.com/p/sealing-rings-tesla-s-air-strut-rear/ For the Tesla X, we most likely get the O-rings for the top cover in stock by end of the month
For the AWD versions with the lower fork arm, its much more complicated. Recommend this facebook site for more info. You need to be a member there to see it. Its Tore Nordvik who has put out a very nice photo series about how to, so just search in the group by his name. facebook.com/groups/1756513194679397/permalink/3415097115487655/
I think that would be difficult. I guess by depressurizing (loosen the nipple) the air strut, you should be able to loosen the cover by knucking it upwards. But access gets very difficult, for proper rust removing, cleaning and painting. You very easily can oversee some parts, and if its not almost 100% smooth, you still got a leak. I believe you save time and efforts by taking the whole thing of the car. But if you give it a try, we very much would like to hear from you.
@@christianvenneslan9361 ok, thx mate. I have some leakage at the front, but it's still manageable. Have to fix the ac condenser and instrument panel before I do this. Guess I will be following your advice and remove the suspension. Thanks for the advice!
Great video and explanation! Thank you for making it and thanks for the english subtitles, helped a lot! In combination with your other video (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZN2yu0AtM4o.html) I was able to fix my leaking air struts. I managed to replace it also without removing the parking brake. Just detaching the power cable of the parking brake was enough to counterweight and pull out the main bolt.
Thank you so much for making this video, Christian! The world needs more people like you :) I followed your steps and fixed both leaking rear air struts on my 2014 RWD Model S. They were leaking because of corrosion build-up under the O-ring. You saved me a lot of money and the repair wasn't too hard. A tip for others: be careful when pulling down the silver part as the O-ring might get stuck underneath it and rolls down deep inside. Rolling it back up was quite a challenge.
Thanks for your nice comments, Viktor. Your tip is also important. I experienced the same with one of my O-rings, it rolled down when pulling down the cover. Quite a lot of work to get it back! So people should notice 🙂
Tusen takk Christian for den veldig informativ video, jeg har en problem også med air suspensjon. dette skal hjelpe meg veldig mye. :) Hilse fra Vennesla :)
For en skriftlig versjon av hvordan bytte luftfjærer (for a written version of how to install air suspension): www.teslasuspension.com/l/no/kan-du-installere-luftfjaerer-selv-tesla-model-s-bak-2013-2016-modeller/ English version: www.teslasuspension.com/l/can-you-install-air-suspension-yourself-tesla-s-rear-air-spring-replacement-2013-mar-2016-models/
Hei. Hvilken høyde står bilen i når du bytter? Høy, lav, normal? Og har såfall dette noe si? Vil tro du har den i servicemodus 😄 takk ellers for meget bra video.
