Some people have asked about the "cold roof" design and the fact I haven't left an air gap. So I'll pin this comment in the hopes it pre-emptively answers any similar questions. This room is sized and located deliberately so that it does not need to be governed by Building Regulations. (going into specifics is a whole video itself, and there are plenty already out there). Also, this is not a cold roof, it's a hybrid roof. Because the room is low occupancy, the amount of moisture in the air inside the room is much lower compared to a normal home where multiple people are respirating, boiling kettles, cooking, doing the dishes with hot water, having showers/baths and so on. The room will be occupied by 1 person most of the time, and only for a couple of hours per day. The windows have ventilation above the glazing, and the windows also open for further ventilation should it be required. There is a vapour barrier (not in this video) between the main part of the room and the airgap under the ventilation. Only a negligible amount of humid air will ever accumulate in that gap. But the air in that gap will always be at the ambient temperature of the rest of the room. Because the insulation is flush up against the roof boards, there is no (super negligible) air touching the "cold" boards, so there's no (super negligible) chance of condensation. This roof method has been used by very experienced professional garden room builders for many many years, as it allows you to gain some extra internal head room if you're building within the rules of Permitted Development (England). I hope this helps, and thank you all so much for watching my videos 🙂
You hate pir...and I have a garage full of it ready to insulate my workshop 😅 Not looking forward to that. Enjoying the series Can't wait to see it when it's all finished 👍 ...one question are you not supposed to leave an air gap between the pir and the underside of the roof (cold roof) ? I'm no expert though.
Brilliant, thanks for watching.The biggest problem for me was the dust and bobbles getting into my eyes. No matter what eye protection I used, I struggled. So I eventually just didnt' wear any as it made no difference. Safety specs - the dust gets round the back of the lenses and into your eyes. Goggles - they steamed up to the point I couldn't see. If you can figure out a way to protect your eyes and still see what you're doing, you'll be fine honest. It's not that bad to work with, just the dust is horrible (and a pain to clean up afterwards) Re: air-gap. see my pinned comment
@@grim-upnorth Ref the air gap, I get what you're saying now you've explained it, it's not like it's going to be air tight the reality is, almost regardless of the amount of insulation you install the building by the very natural of the structure and materials used is going to have natural ventilation to a degree and thermal bridging, it will definitely give you the desired effect of making it feel warmer than outside (or cooler) but relatively speaking (when compared to a house or extension for example) the thermostat effectively won't be great so damp and moisture buildup is unlikely.
@@101projects2 Exactly, its nice having such a considered and understanding response, thank you. I've seen people in other places get all narky about it, usually professional tradespeople who build actual houses etc. saying its wrong. And I agree, if this was required to hit building regs and was part of my home, or if this was a living quarters with bathroom/mini kitchen annex sort of thing... but it isn't. The reality is I will be in this room, playing games on my computer, or watching TV, for at most 4 hours per day... it's not going to be lived or slept in. 🙂
@@grim-upnorthno probs, it'll work out just fine 👍 I'm about 2 months behind you, fighting off the open bare carcass of my workshop build from the elements, I'm constantly checking the weather hoping it won't rain before I can get it water tight.
@@101projects2 yep, this was me a month or so ago, when we had that horrid few weeks of weather. floor got water damaged, edges of the OSB swelled up. I've had to sand them down since getting the roof up 😞
In the case of a standard cold roof, yes you're absolutely correct, and you'd have to used vented soffits front and rear to allow for airflow, so moisture can escape. However, because this building doesn't fall under building regs, and I'm limited to 2.5m in height. It's relatively accepted that it's possible to use this method (in the video) to gain a few inches of internal head room. It's a low occupancy structure, i.e. only 1 or 2 people will be in there at a time, and for relatively short periods of time. Basically, it's not a house with multiple people, cooking, washing, breathing and so on, that would cause humidity in the structure. It's called a hybrid roof (neither warm nor cold roof) and a few expert garden room builders swear by it, for the extra head room you can eek out of permitted development builds. Thanks 🙂
@@grim-upnorththat’s a perfect size my friend. I love the way you are approaching the build and your thorough work and how you explain. Wishing you the best dude
Ive just come across your channel. Cant wait to see how it looks finished. Im planning (in a few years) to build a 5x3m garden room. Some other RU-vidrs ive watched to help me build a bike shed recently were badgers workshop and ragn bone man. Recently just started watching the garden room guru who is amazing! Can you recommend any that have helped you aling the way? Cheers dude, keep it up!
Thank you, welcome to the channel 🙂 I too was inspired by the likes of Badger's Workshop and the Garden Room Guru. If you haven't already, search for Ali Dymock garden room, and Create Garden Rooms ltd. I've learned a lot from those places too.
I inherited a garden room when we moved. We're just in the process now of converting it into a home office/low impact gym and I always thought the floor was too bouncy. Turns out that there are not any noggins in between the joists and not enough joist and they had just rested the 9mm(!) boards on top. That's a job and cost for another day soon!
That sucks! 9mm is too thin for flooring boards, especially if their purpose is to take weight. I wouldn't use anything smaller than 18mm OSB and as you can see in Part 7 of this series, have at least a noggin between each joist so that the edge of each board has something to rest on. Otherwise it will sag and be bouncy like you say. If there's one thing I'd do different, it would possibly be to use tongue and groove on the floors and roof, however my budget didn't allow for that. Thanks for the view 🙂
Thanks. My rubber is on the roof just loosely at the moment. I've screwed some 2x4s on the edges to keep it attached, so at some point there will be a rubber roof video. 🙂
Nice video ! What about the Bepp foam quality, how does it compares with Epp from ARwingnor Dolphin ones ? Does it explode on impact ? Does it shed the small balls one by one on edges ? Thanks
@@grim-upnorth thank you, just doing the internal ceiling using the same insulation you used in your walls, decided a mask might be a good option a little late... you're doing a great job 👍
If you have a multi or omni directional antenna, you won't need the tracker to keep it pointed at your aircraft. But because the system is 1.3 yes, you can use it for short range flying and it will improve penetration
@@irvine40 yes I have the electrician coming for 1st fix this week, after which I'll be insulating and fitting the vapour barrier, before boarding for plaster the week after 👍
question.. Do you just sit the joists directly on the front and back wall? Presumably they dont sit flush (unless you notch a section out) as the rear wall is slightly lower than the front wall? Or is the difference so minimal that joists still sit well enough to fix down? great work btw!
Thank you, Yes the front is only 5cm taller at the front compared to the back, over a 3.5 metre span, the gap at the front is negligible. Plus there's a fat coarse thread timber coach screw at each end of the joist, screwed in from the underside of the wall top plate, pulling the joists down into the wall.
Quick tip above your windows you would be better off to put a board on edge full width of the window so if you're putting up blinds or curtains you're not looking for something to screw into
Coming along nicely, if it's not raining the sun's out and almost too hot (not often we say that), hope you manage to navigate the weather and get it watertight soon 👍
Keep inspiring us middle aged men to go find our inner craftsmen and get the man-cave of our dreams! Particularly looking forward to how you go about measuring, sourcing, and fitting windows. This is the bit I need to gain some confidence in before I embark on my own man-cave quest.
@@rayang9929 I no longer fly, when I did it was on my own or with 1 other friend in remote locations, even the airfield I used to fly from was hardly used by others 👍
@@sarahdaviscc I haven't given up completely. I've had a lot of life changes in the last few years. I still have some of my FPV gear and when things settle down I plan on getting back out into the countryside to fly. 🙂
Well done, I'm also midway through my workshop build, just tackling the floor at the moment, are you running DPM round the edge of the floor before installing the walls?
@@101projects2 DPM isn't needed here as my frame is already off the ground, however I am giving the edge some protection in the way of blackjack bitumous paint. In fact I did that today, you'll see it in the next video 👍
do u really need a tracker with this antenna? i wanna use this antenna and build a similar setup but wondering jf tracking is really necessary if u fly only in a particular direction
No you don't really need a tracker if you're using this antenna, like you say if you launch in the general direction the tracker is pointing and keep the aircraft within the "cone" of reception, you'll be perfectly fine with this antenna simply mounted to a tripod. Plus, the further away you fly, the wider that cone gets (to a certain extent). Good luck buddy, hope you enjoy yourself.
@@irvine40 you're 100% right. My original plan was to have pads running along the centre. I will take your advice and figure out another way to support them underneath. Next video should be putting insulation, so you'll see what I come up with then. Thank you 👍
So I took your advice with regards to the joists that were effectively spanning 3.5m without support in the middle. I was too far in to rip up the fabric and dig more holes for the concrete pads so I ended up using some 5x2 cut offs as stilts, resting on the fabric and screwed into the joists. If you're eagle eyed you'll see what I mean in the next video, although I don't really focus on them. thanks.
@@grim-upnorth i guess you know the accounts on here which offer great advice "the garden room guru" and "badger workshop". i spent countless hours watching their excellent content... all my best
@@markdyballuk haha, yes indeed I've been watching those a lot. Thanks. I'll try and video my progress, but progress is slow right now with the poor weather and only being able to do things on the weekend due to work.
