Seiko SNK809 with upgraded NH36A movement. Maybe 4 years old. I've been fighting wildly adjusting rates, and now the second hand binding. Every minute. Turns out, it is your solution, but it's the other end of the second hand. The lollipop is catching the minute hand. Thanks for the video, you will help keep my favorite watch running. 🍻
Hello, thanks for posting this restoration of the Slava 2356. I bought one recently to restore and until I watched your videos, I couldn't figure out what was wrong. Now I see in your video, the hack switch is a key part of the function. The watch I have, the hack switch is broken and the piece that broke off is missing. So now I have to find a donor movement that has a good hack switch.
By law every morning cement should have the same micro ajust screw as a Hangzhou 5000 micro rotor and ideally an ETA type for beat error. Or at least an ETA type for speed. These are amazing movements that when ajusted are well thin Rolex specs and I have a home build watch and it's my 2nd most accurate movement after a top grade SW-330-2
Hey just commenting to say thanks for your ETA 2824 mainspring video! I bought a watch with a suspected failed mainspring (second hand advancing with swing of the automatic works but dies immediately). Looked like winding works was still working. Pulled her apart, swapped the complete barrel with a cheap aftermarket replacement. Found the hack lever was out of place also - could have been teh cause of the problem but figured while i had it i should swap. Thanks so much!
Totally newb here. That itty bitty screw at the end of the lever... should you loosen that to make the lever easier to move? Or bad idea? And that first lever you move is beat error? and the second one is the actual regulation? Thanks
I guess I'll just remove the rotor before adjustment. Seems pretty crowded in comparison to nh family. That rotor is pretty close to escapement. And the same problem with levers. Stiff. Orient F69xx series are even worse. I made me out of bamboo stick in form of screw driver and I try to slowly build up pressure in the push direction, somewhat like you want to move the stud but you hope it does not move 🙂. The NH family can be erratic where the slightest movement jumps from -10 to +10s/day and just the opposite where you can work you to the wanted sweet spot. How is the Miyota 9015 in regards of the stud sensitivity?
The Orient movements have a hard hairspring and in my opinion so much better than the MH or 4r36. But my god is it stuff, I returned one that way but if you need a spare more cement or parts let me know.
URGENT!!!!!!!!! Hello Sir, how are you? Very well I hope. I am disassembling a slava 2428 movement, and it's my first movement EVER!!!!! Yikes... You have a very helpful video where your breaking down the exact same movement but the comments on that footage are turned off your end so I'm having to ask you something about that video on this video. I hope that's OK. Anyway, in your slava 2428 disassembly video you have a bit of trouble removing the jewel on the top of the balance wheel, that jewel is held in by a brass ring with 3 small lugs around it which slide under an insert on the watch. You actually drop it in the end! It just went PING! And that is EXACTLY the same thing that happened to me! So I need that ring and the actual red jewel also but I do not know what they are called to be able to order them!!! Would you please be able to tell me what that jewel and it's lugged brass ring are actually called and maybe the best place to get them? If you could please reply on that I would be more than grateful and in your debt. I look forward to hearing from you. Thanks for your time & trouble... Dave.G.....
I have a watch with a Miyota 9015 and I have a question about the rotor. If I look trough the backside the rotor barely wants to move in the winding direction but moves freely in the other direction. Its almost like i cant make the rotor move in the winding direction. Is this like it should be? If the watch is fully wound maybe the rotor turns less in the winding direction?
A crystal lift is a perfect tool to use for a perspex crystal WITHOUT a tension ring. A crystal press is a perfect tool for a perspex crystal WITH a tension ring. If interested, here's how I do it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WXZkRLq_o7k.html
I have a Slava watch with this movement and recently I noticed the hour hand is a bit loose, it changes position if I shake the watch. What could be the problem?
Mr RTG, could you answer a question on coils? I've got a Slava standard 3056A in almost new condition but the spares 3056A's I have all have duff coils and this one I recently received the coil has been damaged badly and looks like a copper set of bristles. Will coils from the non A 3056 fit? I don't want to put something in there that will fry that delicate chip or ruin a good coil. Any chance you could cover a 3055 at some point? I am in f10 username Dodgydruid... you might have seen me posting a bit in there :D
Def enjoyed that series, I am going to gingerly take my one to pieces over the week to see where its gone from a super accurate big red star to a non working sad red nose, I have several of the main 30xx types for spares so should be good I am hoping, ty :D
My big red star died this week, strangely it has the 3056A movement in and not Slava's own in house 2356 which surprised me, changed the battery a week before and O ring was fine, noticed wearing the watch this black smeary gunge on my wrist and saw it exiting out the caseback lug channel, opened it up and it was like a disaster in there. So with IPA I gently and carefully cleaned the case area but I suspect the gunge had settled around the coil lead and q tip broke the tiny wire, really peeved as the watch had been astonishingly accurate, luckily my acquisition of a 3050 based Slava tank arrived so got something Soviet quartz on me wrist until I can get the big red star into pieces lol
I absolutely love these videos. Thanks so much for sharing. You’re comments are turned off on the Vostok vids. Do you service Vostoks? Im currently awaiting 4 junior Komandirski watches from Russia. Not sure what to expect with the movements. They were listed as serviced. If you do in fact offer your services, what do you charge? Thanks.
They should be 22 or 2409 standard movements, the only slight difference I found on a recent Cadet 2409 was it accepted only the 2209 second hand and wondered if Vostok maybe changed the second hand pinion dimension for the Cadets. I utilised a NOS Cadet's 2409 in my recent video build of a radio room 090 where you can see the frustration with the standard 24xx second hands just not fitting so installed the Cadet second hand and it went straight on and the homebrew watch has worked beautifully since building losing very little seconds a day too.
Hey, do you ever hear of anyone parting out a 3050 quartz? Am desperate for the main driven wheel that the stepper drives and has the little pinion that makes the hands move, several teeth were eaten by battery corrosion and its a huge beast of a Poljot in sparkling condition but those missing teeth means it drives for about 55 secs then stops as the stepper is trying to turn fresh air. I have the Slava featured here although my red star is bigger and my numerals are in the same red as the star, its been an absolute corker of a piece and keeps spotless time. I've got three inbound, two pepsi's and another turn on the red star theme on the third so will be watching this a few times hehe
Larry Scott You see this is confusing me because some people seem to love this movement but I haven’t seen a proper watch repairers opinion. How did you come up with your opinion because most people who say it’s great fall back on the fact miyota makes tons of movements which of course means nothing. Really hoping you have some insight for me?
Jordz Van 6299 watchmaker here. This Cal of movement is very robust, and is used in many different watches. It’s on par with the eta 2892 cal movement from ETA. And in some cases the miyota 9015 is better. The parts in this cal (the 9015) are serviceable and will last many years, just like in-house calibers and stock calibers. It’s a great movement to work on.
"2416 movement: - a pinion support is not necessary -- the winding bridge provides support -- do not remove the winding bridge. If you have removed it, install it before installing the Seconds hand." forums.watchuseek.com/f10/seconds-hand-pinion-damage-vostok-2409-a-3653818-2.html
Takes the fun out of regulating your own watch, and one slip, your screwdriver is through the hairspring. No reason not to have a screw adjustment on the 9015, big fail by Miyota.
You are not using the Igor tool prolerly. Unscrew the tightening ring of tool and you will find the other end of teeth. Wrap couple of rubber bans around and replace the tightening ring. Now the teeth are "automatic". You can use the tool normally without flipping it over. TRY IT (you probably find residue of old rubber bands)
Hi there Nice videos you uploading and informative. Can I ask you please how do you clean the movements and the parts ? Ultrasonic cleaner ? Watchmakers cleaner ? Something else ? Thanks
Usually I put the nozzle from the compressed air line hose at work on the case tube Give it a little bit of air and pop goes the crystal. Put your thumb firmly over the crystal and be conservative on how much you open the air valve. Too much and your crystal will go flying. Useful for one piece cases if you don't have a crystal lift.
Hi. As a fan of soviet movements I found you a few months ago. By checking this video, I can see you don't post since last summer. I hope everything is OK with you. I'm looking forward to the next one. You have been a great help with this hobby of mine :)
Hello, i just bought a Boctok, it is really old, and i couldn't figure out the movement. Do i need to wind manually or it is automatic? The crown does make a different noise, but when i shake it, it powers up. Do i need to Wind manually and shake it to start the mechanism?
"It's not a rocket science. If russians can do it - you can do it!" :D I was sure that there is some sort of sealing between crystal and case... It comes out that force of the tension ring and deformation of acrylic glass seals the case and capable of wr200???
