Car Craft Auto Detailing (CCAD) is a professional car detailing service in Melbourne. This channel is about sharing and reviewing various detailing techniques, products, how to videos and more, that are used in both my business and personal detailing obsessive life.
Everything but claying can be used, - you can clay a coated vehicle but it can also lead to premature breakdown of the coating - chemical removal of contaminants is easier on the coating. I also made a dedicated video on this topic which you may find helpful: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vWYyw-yKM3A.htmlsi=wrRi1Zhr7UIxg-WP
My issues with these are the same issue I have with cordless. The batteries are expensive, so you want as much reuse as possible. If you go with these, there isn't very far to go. Yet a Milwaukee has tons of tools you can share the batteries with.
You make wonderful videos! 👏 Need some advice: 🙏 I found these words 😅. (behave today finger ski upon boy assault summer exhaust beauty stereo over). Can someone explain what this is? 😅
Great video but will this work with a vehicle that's in not so bad condition but has some orange peel? What I mean is after I've done some compounding polishing and waxing the finish is not a mirror image. The reflection is slightly blurry but not terrible.
Sanding to level down orange peel is similar but different - in that your go through the same process but won’t use any backing foam or foam backed sanding discs/paper for the initial levelling stage, usually using P1500 to level out the peel.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thanks I may look into this but I'm slightly disappointed after doing 4 days of detailing on the car haha. The car is a 2003 vehicle with 14,000 mi and it's always garage kept never driven in the snow or rain. Does orange peel sometimes just come from the factory?
Wow nice finish. I didn't expected the particles in the claying process. Thank you very much for the extra effort that made it possible to get a good look of how its done. Amazing way of video editing 🙏. Makes it easy on the eye and clear to understand everything properly!!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailingcould a lower speed not get most of swirls. I did a polish with an electric sander and had to lower the speed to not have it vibrate like crazy. I keep wondering if I would have done more correcting with more speed. I did do more passes incase.
If it’s just an oscillating sander it may not work well, you need a good dual motion free spinning action - if it has that then it should get you there in the end
May be your last metal review but this is very helpful for boat owners who have metal T-Tops and other metal parts that get destroyed by the salt water. Very helpful videos, I’m returning the collonite metal was as I went all in on their brand, but clearly their metal polish isn’t very good. Thanks !
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing enjoy your time off! It’s summer here so I’m outside in the driveway trying to my best Sandro impersonation on the neighborhood cars.
First off excellent video, one of the best well explained videos out there, big help. Couple things about process what about clay bars before going into a heavy cut? I see some videos on that and they seem to prep the car very nice. I know it's an extra step but at the same time you'd theoretically do less heavy cutting right?
Yes, good preparation is vital prior to paint correction, this is another video I did going through that process: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7i4u03UkUs8.htmlsi=lxpk_Ryp4AnDmwVl
Very helpful channel... Since I'm on well water and I get water spots after my car wash should I be using one of these products to help my Carnauba wax last longer? I know I need to purchase something as I just am about to finish a full detail heavy cut medium cut polish enhancing glass and then carnanuba wax.
It depends. I used to wash after paint correction in my early days mainly because I was more messy. But these days I work very clean and perform IPA wipe down before, during and after paint correction which leaves me no reason to wash - which if you can do without also helps avoid new washing and drying swirls and water retention. But if paint correction has left behind lots of residue and mess, then I would recommend washing 🙂
Hi sir.. How about gyeon mohs evo compare to CQ Sic on you POV?? I wish to strip out my CQ UK that has been 3+ years and looking for new coat.. I'm between the CQ Sic and the mohs evo.. Hope you can answer my questions 🫡
I haven’t directly compared them in a test, but I do think they are quite similar being very slick, glossy and hydrophobic, but I don’t feel either of them will be quite as durable as UK3.0 or Pure Evo.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing I love the slickness and hydrophopic both of them..but in terms of durability i think quite complicated.. But now I'm looking for some coating that make me easier to maintain my weekly wash and a bit better water spot protection.. I like both of them but need to choose lol.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailingafter seeing you reviews on PURE EVO.. Do you think PURE EVO can out perform the Mohs evo for asia hot and humid climate sir? I'm looking for coating that are bit better water spot protection, UV protection and ease of cleaning (tar and others contamination less likely to stick to the surface).. Thanks you for you response sir.
Yes I would guess that that Pure would outlast Mohs, but as to water spot resistance, it’s a little harder to determine that, sometimes a less hard top coat sealant can do a better job at that - but your particular water and environment can influence that.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thank you sir.. Yes I'm 100% agree the paint sealant more better to prevent water spot.. Previously i was regularly using reload and reload 2.0 and i can say it doing well..
I just paid $1000 bucks to get a stage 1 paint correction done. It literally looks like they decontamination wash with no clay bar then just ceramic coated my paint. I can still see all the imperfections that were on the paint before. I got robbed.
Bought these 2 a few weeks ago for a car I've just gotten, an having a bit of a nightmare with it, I used the polish a few weeks ago washed the car with meguiars snow foam and rinsed, made sure all panels were cool an did it out of the sun, did it in small areas and it was leaving a mess of a finish smears an found it difficult to get off, still leaving a cloudy finish, I'm using a foam applicator similar to the white one in the vid, and meguiars micro fibre cloths to remove, tried the compound last night and same thing I just tested it on the bonnet car was sparkling clean, and after buffing with the white applicator it was turning a dark grey dirty colour, maybe this stuff just isn't for my paint, it's subaru obsidian black, any tips would ve greatly appreciated😢
Sometimes using less compound/polish can help, maybe use half the amount and try another test spot. Ultimately, even a cheaper machine polisher will greatly help compared to polishing by hand, and lastly, some paints can be overly soft and sensitive- such as Subaru - so sometimes we do have to test some alternative polishes and pads to see what that particular paints responds best to.
