Deadpan, that's what that is, deadpan! Thanks, really interesting and helpful stuff. I learn better with a smile on my face. Love the song, sounds like me.
Thank you for the video series. It must have been quite a challenge getting all of these uploaded. I'm just starting my journey through the videos and enjoying them thoroughly. Thank you!!
To bring this advice up to the 21st century, I spend as much time steering my CNC capable mill by hand (as in keyboard, pendant, whatever your machine uses) as I do operating in in CNC mode since it functions as both my "manual" mill and CNC mill. This same tip also holds true for my Manual/CNC lathe in fact even MORE so because the lathe is inherently more dangerous. I may change the feeds constantly on-screen to rapid to where I need to be, then slow it to position, change cutting tools, and need an entirely different feed. Bad things can happen if you enter the cut at a dramatically faster feed than you should. Back when I started someone taught me a good method to just automatically do whenever you are adjusting feed rates a lot: Before you start jogging in the direction of your cut, whenever possible jog the OTHER WAY for a moment first. This keeps you from accidentally having the machine leap and enter your cut at 120ipm when you wanted 8ipm. You'll immediately notice the speed is completely wrong but you jogged safely toward empty air first. It takes no time, and it provides comfort and sanity check. Safer and you'll break far less tools.
Hope you are doing OK buddy 🤗 I just realised I haven’t seen anything pop up from you in a while so just wanted to leave a message letting you know we are still “checking in” and we look forward to seeing you back (whenever you are feeling up to it) 🤗 Also, don’t forget it is OK to not be OK mate! While I haven’t had cancer (and can’t imagine what you are going through there), I do live with chronic mental health issues so completely understand struggling to get the energy to do / pleasure from the things you usually love to do. Just be sure to reach out and be honest with your doc’s and your loved ones if you are struggling 😊 If your family is anything like mine, they are a lot stronger than you think and they would want you to tell them if you are aren’t feeling 100%. In the end, we often realise we have been putting on the brave face for nothing but our own pride! Anyways, please take care mate and I look forward to seeing you back in the future 🤗
Awesome refresher videos for my Elec Eng brain that last Studied Mechanics of Materials back in the 1980's 🙃 Had a great Lecturer at the time so a lot of it stayed but very rusty to play with my new little Heat Treatment Oven so these are a great help.
Crazy I can understand your basic trig explanation but not long division on a math tutor video. Suppose I should check out different teachers or something.
Like you said it's difficult to find information, it's taken me a while to find this. But I'm glad I did! Thank you for your work, looking forward to get stuck in.
Marc. My passion for engineering and machining was initiated by two shop teachers who I am forever indebted You are the third member of my key influencers group. Thank you!
Dull files have their uses - I use them as sacrificial electrodes in electrolytic rust removal tank as they have a large surface area for their size. Acid etching that everyone raves about, just roughs up a file surface making it akin to a sanding stick. Folks think they are sharper because the worn out file they started out with, will now grind metal .... but not for long. A sharp file is a cutting tool and once you have blunted it, there is nothing that will restore it. Buy good quality files, store, clean and maintain them properly and they will last for years. Handy tip is to keep a few 'beaters' close to hand on the bench for those odd jobs that are likely to blunt a file, eg stock removal on hardened steel, where you don't need a good surface finish..... and be prepared to bin them afterwards. I can go through a couple of these re-profiling a hard steel Scandinavian axe head.
Thanks for a great informative video. I would like to add that balancing a 1/2 inch wide wheel is pointless and a total waste of time in a tool room. Get a sopko hub without weights for 1/2 inch wheels and save the balancing hub for 1" wide wheels. Over 30 years precision grinding and I have never once needed to balance a 1/2 inch wheel. Sometimes I change wheels multiple times a day. I probably have 50 wheels on a pegboard. One inch wide wheels that will stay mounted until they wear out on a wet grinder should be balanced.
Marc is there a way when dressing the surfacing wheel with the diamond to prevent it from knock chips out of the outside and inside surface of the surfacing wheel. I noticed sometimes it will knock quite large chunks off the outside and inside of the surfacing wheel. If you slightly chamfer the outside edges it will cut down the actual width of your surfacing wheel.
Marc - I'm also grateful for what you do to education aspiring machinists. Many of your videos have taught me how to use my father's Craftsman 109 hobby lathe, to prepare to teach blueprint reading, to learn home heat treating, and many other skills. I'll pray your recovery continues. Looking forward to more of your videos.
This video is meant for for the novice, and it covers the basics well. But please add the point that the work must be spaced off the table if you are cutting full depth. If you leave out the spacers you get a nice pattern on the top surface of your rotary table!
