Finding your videos helpful thanks Barry, but cannot see how the lock engages. Have you cut a slot in the plastic on the side of the cowl? Also, how long is the barrel of the lock?
Thanks for your comments. The barrel lock ( or shed lock) had a L shaped tongue. I didn't want to mess with the grill work on the cowl itself so i worked out where would be the best position, given the arc of the movement. I had to remove a short section of the centre molding of the cover itself (you can see that in the video). I was working towards marketing a simple DIY lock kit. However the lock itself which was from a garden shed had a short enough barrel but i then wasn't able to source any lock barrels with shorter bodies. So I went no further. However I have now sourced (hopefully) a reliable source. However the tongue is now a flat bar which would now mean some major rehashing of the fixed cowl. This takes it away from the simple DIY purpose I had in mind.
Hello, and thankyou for your interest in my you tube clip. The gas strut is a standard strut to fit the distance for normal door operation. The success of my device is due to there being a sliding movable base for that strut. There is a pinch cam device which locks the base where it normally is for standard 90° door operation. Then once the pinch cam is released, the 'floating' fixing point of the strut, can slide in the C channel to allow the door to fully open. It's my own design and the result of quite a few prototypes I made.
Thank you kindly! The yamaha H2 was a stop gap whilst I restored by 3-manual Conn with midi conversion into a Virtual Pipe Organ ( same software as . Here’s the finished product. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-C8RZz_m8zIQ.htmlsi=S0K7dQXISd2dcOpM
Initially I used a Yamaha HC-2 electronic organ which has midi I had a Casio 61 note Keyboard and added a ply base with felt in between to put it on top of the existing two 49 note manuals. Might need a wedge here or there to keep it even and level. It all came together easily and here’s a video of that configuration using the Hauptwerk 320 wurlitzer sounds. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2RYl1K8HEiA.htmlsi=JOA9739kGDJtcwGe
Great job,and sounds great,we recently replaced our Conn651 which we had from new here and replaced it with a Allen ADC4600 credit to you.4gds from Steve&Theresa Rainham Essex England
Thankyou for you kind comments. I love the Allen. A friend has 10 organs in his home ( plus 13 big Leslie’s)!! Several are VPO’s and 3 manual full PB. But he has a white Allen 3 manual, full 32 note pedal board, and ‘trash trays which pull out. I love playing it. No wife! No wonder! Cheers
Really, really nice. At the beginning, I thought you got an amazing theater sound out of that little Yamaha. Then I realized, you were actually playing Hauptwerk! What a trick. And you played it very well. Your style is extremely enjoyable. I can send you a photo of my HAUPTWERK set up. I use a Yamaha HX with an added third keyboard. I love Hauptwerk.
Thankyou piano Don. Yes you’re correct. H4 with the Paramount 320 Wurlitzer . On a Yamaha HC-2 electone Since this video, i’ve added a Casio 61 note keyboard and now can play the 320 using 3 keyboards. Fantastic program eh? I’m actually doing up a Conn 650 saved from going to the dump. It’s all midified now and this is the software the ‘Conn’ VPO has been using. I’m converting it to Antique white panelling with timber painted gold scrolls and strips. Subscribe and click the little notification bell because I am doing a progress video which i’ll post. And yes I would be interested in seeing your VPO. Cheers Barry
I’m using an old analogue Yamaha pedal board from a YC 45D combo organ - released in Australia in about 1971/2. I owned it for about 29 years and was sorry to have ever sold it. So I went on the hunt for another or just the bass pedals - as they originally sold as an option to the YC45D After about 6 months I got lucky. An electronics friend who made his own VPO, agreed to midify my pedals as a paid job- ( he earns his living from electronics repairs. ) Then I plugged them into my disused Roland Sound Canvas SC155 module. It’s output goes to a sub ( as it’s only bass I need) Choose from any of the midi modules 190 odd sounds ( although essentially only the bass guitars, slap bass and so on.) Glad you like it. I formed a piano trio with Me, me, and a drummer. ( we play now and then at our lifestyle resort. There’s a RU-vid video there somewhere on it.
Another thing to look out for - the scuttle panel is held in place by a few screws and ten plastic clips which shatter when you remove the panel. If you ever have a windscreen replaced they'll replace the screws but won't replace the clips (they're a special Fiat part that no-one is going to have to hand, they're expensive, and windscreen fitters don't realise they're important). Without the clips, the panel won't sit against the glass and it will be hard to seal.
thankyou Richard. Good points. Even with those clips, it’s hard to see how plastic against glass could possibly keep water out. It needs a rubber or neoprene gasket between the two. That’s why I favour something like sikaflex.
Agreed. With advice from my local hardware store, I ended up using Sikaflex EBT+. It's a polyurathane goo, sticks well and stays very flexible. It looks good so far. Without the clips, I could put my fingers between the scuttle and glass, I don't think the EBT+ could have held it in place on its own.
I was planning on removing my scuttle but now youve mentioned the breaking clips i might just leave it in place. I originally wanted to seal behind it against the glass. We shouldnt be having this years old problem, my van is 18 months old and still has this problem.. Thanks for the info
@@robertoduranos5196I've heard of people just sealing along the joint between the plastic and glass and being happy with the results. You might be able to lift the rubbery edge and squeeze sealant into the gap. I was happier to remove the scuttle, clean it and reassemble with sealant, since my clips were already wrecked. I've also read comments that the scuttle is originally sealed to the glass with an adhesive foam strip, but I've never seen any evidence of that. If your van is so new and doesn't have the foam seal I'm starting to think it's a myth.
Good advice. I have a 2019 Ducato and still the same issues. So I have built a deflector under the bonnet to stop any water going onto the engine cover. Also I use ACF50 a product that was developed for the Aircraft industry to kill corrosion and repel moisture. It stays active much better than a thinner WD40 type of product. Its a little more expensive but will stop any corrosion and kill any that has started due to this hidden danger :-) p.s ACf50 is mostly sold in Motorbike shops as they use this to protect their chrome. Also the water dripping onto the engine cover comes from the drainage rubber pipe above the cover ! Its just a very poor design with water flowing down a rubber pipe towards a female - male connector ! like that's going to not leak .... So mostly on the later model 2018 onwards its the rubber pipe that is carrying the water to the underside drain that drips. Hence like I say I have added more coverage to stop this and also I have tried to limit the water that drips out of this pipe. Its mostly dry now and protected by ACF50. www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/339233
Thankyou Billz I’ve played friends H7 450’s in a three keyboard console. Found it a bit disconcerting to have 4 manual organ allocated to 3 manual keyer. For example when playing solo keyboard and only wanting solo sounds there’s be a number of great or choir sounds mixed in I found a way to instantly disconnect either or the great and solo. Just click on or if a touch screen, touch the small label name for that keyboard, on the software display, and it turns off or cancels the keyboard you don’t want. It can be assigned to a tab or a piston control so it’s easy to do All the best in your endeavors
I enjoyed the playing very much! I have the Wurlitzer 310 so far. I'm considering going to either the 3/31 or the 450. Not sure yet. I would also like the 320 upgrade to mine. I am currently running HW4, but I just built a system for a church and use HW7 on that one. I'm sold on the upgrade!! Now, of course, it's HW8. I have a couple other churches interested in getting Hauptwerk systems installed and I am working on those people also. My instrument in my home is inside a Rodgers 33E console which has been gutted and tossed into landfill a few years ago now. I have a Focusrite 18i20 digital to analog interface and have 10 channels with a 150W 15" Subwoofer, making it a 10.1 system. My HW4 organ uses four Alesis reverb units on it. (I can't wait to get mine to HW8 now.) I like the Alesis units except for the silver plated reverb switch. It oxidizes badly after a while and a pain to pull the unit apart to clean the contacts on that 'nearly sealed' assembly. I also have had to replace the electrolytics in them also because they do go bad. Otherwise it's a great system. Best to you on your building Hauptwerk your system!
I've heard of the problems, but your video not only clarifies the problems, but shows people how to fix them. What a brilliant video. Your efforts to help others are much appreciated. Cheers
I reckon that age is a factor, as is not keeping the RV mobile more often in sitting around could be bad for them. We have had two blow-outs on the drivers side rear duals on each of our last trips. I carry two hydraulic jacks and a Makita impact wrench to help make it as easy as possible.
None from Bunnings. I make the removal tool myself. I've got an even better model now which is in demand. It sells for $20 posted to anywhere in Australia. I call it the trauma-saver tool. PM me for details. or email traumasavertool@gmail.com
Best thing I did was put 1.5 laps of tape on the sink mixer connections, they say not to use tape but when I got my new van everything was leaking, now it's not, and I'm also not a fan of connecting main hose to the van. I carry about 3m of each hose color, and have a emergency kit ( cost me $160) with all types of clamps and fittings.
Thanks Barry. They are prone to crack and fail even without the tape. We have toilet paper secured around all fittings and pipework so one can readily identify a failed fitting as we nolonger leave the pump turned on when not using.water and we nolonger use direct from tap water supply that won't stop if there is a failure. We listen carefully to the water pump when we turn it on to see if it let's us know there is air in the line and hence a water leak. All our plumbing is between the two floors or in the cupboards or walls and so the leak can't escape to ground, rather it wets the timber construction should we not notice. So we have become somewhat cautious after a couple of failed fittings.
Our first one was the hot water outlet from the Truma HWS. We’d been travelling and stopped for afternoon tea, only to find water running out from under a bed , where the HWS was. No warning - so it’s off with the 12v water pump when travelling. Not a big fan either of hooking the mH up to mains water.
BRAVO and many thanks for sharing with the world. Saturdays and holidays we would be in the theater enjoying the music from such wonderful instruments. Brings back fond memories even 7 decades later
Hahaha yes it was during that awkward Covid period of time when governments mandated wearing of masks. If it can’t be ‘unseen, just close your eyes and listen. Haha You could check out this clip where we didn’t have that issue. This was my return to organs after many years and my very first play on a friend’s Virtual Pipe organ- this one emulating the fabulous Paramount 4/50 Wurlitzer in (I believe) Chicago I first played this song when I was just 17 and it was TOSA (Queensland) farewell to the mighty Wurlitzer organ in the then Regent Theatre Brisbane. It had been sold to a private buyer interstate and I was the very LAST person ever to play it before it was pulled out and crated up the next day. That was way back in 1963. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TfPqKk5TmR8.html
the pipes under my sing have been wrongly installed. Water only goes down the sink and out the grey water tank when driving. I use a dish for the sink. But the toilet cassette which is of course separate to anything, I put cheap white vinegar in after emptying and cleaning out thoroughly with fresh water. I do this vinegar bit each time I go home.
Thankyou for your comment Dianne. Doesn’t sound right about your sink water only “goes down the sink when driving”. What brand of RV do you have? Vinegar is ok to use. It helps clean the sensors in the tank, restoring correct Grey water tank levels and helping clean the tank. We use a Domestos product tipped down all wastes and mixes with the existing water. Then a good drive to let it all slosh about. Then drain out.
Hello Stephen Due to toilets having toilet pans and cisterns they played on the word and with the murals on walls and ceilings etc dubbed it the Cistern Chapel.
