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@asm101 very far from a beginner, you gonna cut "across"metal sheets with snips?the drip edge at the bottom should never"hold"water,you don't cut the exposed edge of metal sheets,what about nibblers?bet you've never heard of them.i just know bullshit when I see it
Seems that corrugated metal is very hard to cut with shears due to the profile ? Too bad you didn’t show us how to cut the corrugated with shears. Always put the cut edge up rather than down !
Great interview Alex! I’m always impressed by how tech forward you are. You elevate your industry dude! You’ve also peaked my interest in this product/service.
I have been doing comnercial buildings for 30 years and my crews use only use shears, nibblers or snips. There has been a few times the nibbler was broken so we cut with the grider close to the line then trim it back with snips. We never use a grinder near roof panel because those metal particle float every where then start pit rusting.
Used to install 8in steel siding on homes thick stuff always use snips no saw it would void the warranty unlike Aluminum siding in my 70s now United States Steel made the product very heavy duty
If you want either method to last you need to recoat the cut edge. Ultra thin cutting discs cut very cleanly. Have you ever tried to cut a corrugated roofing iron sheet with tin snips? I have. It sux balls. Grinder for big cuts every time. Only people in the industry would have power shears. Or maybe hire.
Very strange how there is an unfounded fear of half round gutters in the U.S. par for the course I guess but they definitely work just as well if not better than k style.
Question: could you not prime and paint the cut edge before installing. I bet the 95 percent of rusted walls that you mentioned that the installers installed, none of the installers bothered to prime and paint the freshly cut edge. Of course unprotected steel will rust regardless on whether it was cut with shears or a grinder!!! Daaaaaa!!!!
@@asm101 good luck with your channel, arguing with all commenters. You know lot of people do it that way. If you don't recommend it you could explain why instead. Except the noise and rust prone edge I don't see the problem
Put a wood blade in a skillsaw backwards, wear a face shield/safety goggles and earplugs. The cuts will be flawless. Less heat and sparks and hot metal shavings doing it this way and you get a great cut through the profiles at any angle. 40+ yrs of proven success doing so. Grinders and snips cannot give you the accuracy and clean cut you can achieve. Before you recommend not doing something, you should first try it.
I just had my overhead door casing capped and the guy put a seam on the header piece I asked him why he didn't just use one piece he said I only have an 8 ft break I think it looks like crap. He had to rip out the existing aluminum and those had 45's on them This guy didn't put 45s and he also didn't tack in on the side of the j channel he could have drove in some siding nails in there. Instead of face nailing it. 🤨 You do professional work You're just like the old timers far and few great tutorial 👍
If you're cutting all of your wall metal you must not have measured and ordered the correct size. Unless the building is a janky design with level changes, the wall metal "should" be the same length and the only cutting would be to adjust the widths at corners and around wall openings, windows, doors.
You always have to cut at some point let be real. Yea I agree about getting the manufacturer to do as much of the cutting as possible. But they can’t make them all
Alex, I got a re roof job coming up where the previous roof has regular ice guard on eaves. We're going back with metal in certain slopes. If we put high temp on top will that prevent bleed out ?
The new layer may add some insulation value. If it’s all stuck down then you should be alright. One other thing you can do is add thermal blanket (looks like bubble wrap) that manage the heat better. Hope this helps brother
We had a plumbing standard here in Australia which specifically stated only use snips for cutting sheet roofing, the reasons being as you stated, the heat from cutting with a grinder destroys the applied protective coating. Think about this. As you cut with snips, the zinc coating is dragged across the exposed edge providing some level of protection to the cut edge. All this goes by the wayside in this time of doing everything as quickly as possible rather than doing things properly. I was a building contractor for nigh on 50 years and ended up doing all my own roofing ,and only speak to what I have observed.
Go ahead and cut them with a grinder or a quick cut, but don’t submerge the burnt edge in water by installing it bottom down or orders them to the proper length from the manufacturer, can you get a factory cut both and you don’t have to cut anything
I bought this product I must have got the dud one because no matter how I held it, it wouldnt cut. It just slipped and spun on the odd occation it started to cut. Looks great but a big fat no for me it's now sitting in the bucket of dud stuff I wont recommend to my worst enemy.
I found the cheap little makita impacts to be my favorite drill for doing trim. They weigh like half as much as dewalts or Milwaukees and they have a lot less torque which makes it easier to get the screw just right.
Good tip, thank. In my case, I need to put up a shed roof of the galvanized corrugated metal. How would I cut it without "burning" it, so it doesn't rust?
cutting with a metal cutting saw is abit better because the rpm of the blade is slower and remove chips of steel rather than grinding into oblivion..you can rent them at home depot...next option is a shear attachment for your drill here's the link geni.us/dewaltshearattachment
Not a beginner here. I've install 100's of 1000's sqft of every type of metal. Use your brain. If it covers more than 1", cutting with a grinder is fine. Everything else, cut with shears. Yes, there will be melt-back. Plan for it. If you make a mistake and cut the wrong end, swap it out. There is also edge corrosion on shear cuts, but it usually takes 10 times as long to see it. The only real problem is crappy metal companies. They'll sometimes get a bad roll and try to blame finish peel on the grind cut on the end of a 32ft sheet. Sorry, but that won't cause finish peel all the way down the sheet. Rare though. In 35 years I've never had any sheet peels, rust wash, etc. Had some trim peel, but it was shear cut, so, don't know how they weaseled out of that.
@@iloveit9468 "If you make a mistake and cut the wrong end, swap it out." " There is also edge corrosion on shear cuts, but it usually takes 10 times as long to see it." Notice anything?
I am still waiting for your answer to your own answer "WHY...". All you did was the answer of "grinding is sort of like sanding the wood" which nobody asked you this. Nice, keep up the good job on spreading the useful information ;)
